{ "name": "RV & camper appliance fault codes", "description": "Free, cross-brand reference for RV and camper appliance fault codes. Look up what a Dometic, Norcold, Suburban, Atwood, Furrion, Lippert or Truma error or blink code means — with likely causes, safe DIY checks and the reset procedure.", "version": "1.0", "updated": "2026-09-23", "license": "CC BY 4.0", "license_url": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/", "attribution": "RVCodeFix (https://rvcodefix.com), CC BY 4.0", "source": "https://rvcodefix.com/data/", "count": 297, "codes": [ { "brand": "advent-air", "brand_name": "Advent Air", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/advent-air/air-conditioner/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Advent ACTH12 thermostat, E4 indicates a communication error between the thermostat (T-Stat) and the relay/control kit, so the two are not exchanging signals correctly.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, dirty, or damaged wiring between the thermostat and the relay kit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Moisture or dust on the connection points in the air distribution box", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed relay kit or failed thermostat", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, open the air distribution box and inspect all wiring for damage or loose/incorrect connections.", "Verify the thermostat wires match the relay kit terminals (e.g., A, B, COM, 12V) per the install diagram.", "Clean any dust or moisture from the connectors." ], "reset_steps": [ "With the thermostat in Off mode, press and hold both the Mode and Fan buttons at the same time.", "While still holding them, press the Power button, then release all three buttons.", "Power-cycle the unit at the breaker if the code remains." ], "affected_models": [ "Advent Air ACTH12 thermostat", "Advent Air ducted rooftop AC systems using the ACTH12 / ACRG relay kit" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before opening the air distribution box; 120V mains wiring is present alongside the low-voltage control wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring and connections are confirmed good and E4 still appears, the relay kit or thermostat is likely defective and should be replaced.", "caveats": "Advent code numbering differs from Houghton/RecPro. Some etrailer/JustAnswer field reports describe the communication fault as E5 rather than E4; the ACTH12 manual table assigns the relay-communication fault to E4.", "sources": [ { "title": "Advent ACTH12 Operating Instructions (full text)", "publisher": "Internet Archive / Manualzilla", "url": "https://archive.org/stream/manualzilla-id-7351582/7351582_djvu.txt", "manualRef": "ACTH12 error code table: E4 Check wire connections at T-Stat and relay kit" }, { "title": "Advent Air Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/advent-air-ac-troubleshooting-guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Communication Defect with T-Stat and Relay Kit" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "advent-air", "brand_name": "Advent Air", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/advent-air/air-conditioner/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Advent ACTH12 thermostat, E5 indicates a DC supply-voltage problem — the system voltage has dropped too low for reliable operation (the control expects roughly 10 volts or more).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low RV battery / house battery voltage", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded DC power connection to the control", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Undersized or long DC wiring causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the house battery state of charge and confirm the converter/charger is working or the unit is on shore power.", "With power off, inspect the DC power connections at the control for corrosion or looseness.", "Measure the supply voltage at the control if you have a multimeter and confirm it is above about 10 volts." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore proper DC voltage (charge the battery or connect shore power).", "With the thermostat Off, hold Mode and Fan together, press Power, then release all three buttons to clear the display." ], "affected_models": [ "Advent Air ACTH12 thermostat", "Advent Air ducted rooftop AC systems using the ACTH12 / ACRG relay kit" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before checking wiring. Low-voltage faults can also point to a failing battery or charging system; have the electrical system inspected if voltage keeps sagging under load.", "call_tech_when": "If battery voltage is healthy and connections are clean but E5 persists, have the DC supply circuit and the thermostat checked by a technician.", "caveats": "Sources conflict on Advent E5: the ACTH12 manual table ties E5 to DC voltage below ~10V, while several etrailer/JustAnswer expert answers describe E5 as a thermostat-to-controller communication fault. Verify against the exact thermostat revision on your unit; the related 'Lo' display also indicates low DC voltage.", "sources": [ { "title": "Advent ACTH12 Operating Instructions (full text)", "publisher": "Internet Archive / Manualzilla", "url": "https://archive.org/stream/manualzilla-id-7351582/7351582_djvu.txt", "manualRef": "ACTH12 error code table: E5 ensure DC voltage is above 10 volts" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting An E5 Error Code On An Advent Air RV Air Conditioner", "publisher": "etrailer", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-687426.html", "manualRef": "E5 troubleshooting (low voltage / communication)" } ], "confidence": 0.72, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "alde", "brand_name": "Alde", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Gas failure", "code_slug": "gas-failure", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/alde/furnace/gas-failure/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The boiler tried to ignite the LPG burner but did not establish a flame, or it ran out of gas. The control panel reports that gas heating could not start.", "causes": [ { "cause": "LPG cylinder empty or shut off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Gas isolation valve closed, or regulator/valve frozen in cold weather", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong gas type or a regulator fault", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Ignition or gas valve fault in the boiler", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the LPG cylinder is not empty and the bottle valve is open", "Try a different, known-full propane cylinder", "Confirm all gas isolation valves are open and the regulator is not frozen or iced over", "Verify the gas supply is propane as required" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the gas supply (open valves, swap to a full propane bottle)", "Reset from the panel: disconnect the panel from the boiler, remove 230V, and disconnect 12V from the boiler", "Reconnect power and restart the boiler on gas" ], "affected_models": [ "Alde Compact 3020 HE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is an LPG appliance. If you smell gas, shut off the cylinder immediately, do not operate switches or create sparks, and ventilate the area. Do not repeatedly retry ignition with the gas on, as unburned LPG can accumulate. Have any suspected gas leak checked by a qualified gas technician.", "call_tech_when": "If the gas supply is confirmed good and valves are open but the boiler still will not ignite on gas, or if you suspect a gas leak, regulator fault or ignition fault, contact an Alde dealer or qualified gas technician.", "caveats": "Error messages appear as text on the Alde touch panel and are only shown when the panel is in standby; transient messages can appear briefly when 230V or 12V is disconnected and can be disregarded if no real fault exists.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operating Instructions – Alde Compact 3020 HE", "publisher": "Alde International", "url": "https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554011225cb589a25f9ac/v-3020-05-rev1504-bruksanvisning-compact-3020he-en.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9:1 Error Messages – Gas failure" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/alde/furnace/gas-failure/", "meaning": "Der Boiler hat versucht, den Flüssiggasbrenner (LPG) zu zünden, konnte aber keine Flamme aufbauen, oder das Gas ist ausgegangen. Das Bedienpanel meldet, dass die Gasheizung nicht starten konnte." } }, { "brand": "alde", "brand_name": "Alde", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Low battery", "code_slug": "low-battery", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/alde/furnace/low-battery/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 12V supply to the boiler has dropped below about 10.5V, which can cause a system brownout. Various other error messages may appear as a side effect of the low voltage, but those are not genuine faults.", "causes": [ { "cause": "House battery discharged or under heavy load", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "12V supply voltage sagging during operation", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Poor 12V wiring/connection to the boiler", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the 12V supply at the boiler and confirm it is above 11V", "Charge the house battery or connect to shore power/generator and recheck", "Disregard other error messages that appeared only while voltage was low, as they are not real faults", "Inspect 12V connections to the boiler for looseness or corrosion" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore adequate 12V (charge battery, reduce load) — the message clears automatically once supply reaches about 11V", "If it does not clear, reset by disconnecting the panel from the boiler, removing 230V, and disconnecting 12V" ], "affected_models": [ "Alde Compact 3020 HE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Low voltage itself is not a combustion hazard, but ignore any secondary error messages until voltage is restored. Take normal care working on the 12V system and avoid shorting battery terminals.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery is charged and voltage is confirmed above 11V at the boiler but Low battery still shows, have the 12V wiring or boiler checked by an Alde dealer.", "caveats": "Voltage thresholds (10.5V trip, 11V auto-clear) are as stated in the operating instructions and may differ slightly on other panel firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operating Instructions – Alde Compact 3020 HE", "publisher": "Alde International", "url": "https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554011225cb589a25f9ac/v-3020-05-rev1504-bruksanvisning-compact-3020he-en.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9:1 Error Messages – Low battery" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/alde/furnace/low-battery/", "meaning": "Die 12-V-Versorgung des Boilers ist unter etwa 10,5 V gesunken, was zu einem Systemausfall (Brownout) führen kann. Verschiedene andere Fehlermeldungen können als Nebeneffekt der niedrigen Spannung erscheinen, dabei handelt es sich jedoch nicht um echte Fehler." } }, { "brand": "alde", "brand_name": "Alde", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Overheat (red fail)", "code_slug": "overheat", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/alde/furnace/overheat/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The overheat protection on the red cable has tripped. The boiler reached an over-temperature condition, commonly because it ran at high power while air pockets in the glycol heating loop prevented proper heat transfer.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Air pockets in the heating system, especially when running at high power", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low fluid level in the expansion tank", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Circulation pump not running or not circulating fluid", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Bleed/vent the heating system of air using the air vents located around the system", "Check the fluid level in the expansion tank: it should sit about 1 cm above the Min mark when cool", "Confirm the circulation pump is responding and moving fluid", "Allow about 15 minutes for the fluid to cool before restarting" ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the system cool for roughly 15 minutes and correct the air/fluid/pump issue", "Reset: disconnect the panel from the boiler, remove 230V, and disconnect 12V from the boiler", "Reconnect and restart; if the fault returns, contact a dealer" ], "affected_models": [ "Alde Compact 3020 HE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheat protection is a critical safety device, do not bypass it. The glycol fluid and boiler can be hot, so allow cooling before working on the system. Repeated overheating points to an air-bound or low-fluid loop that must be corrected before further use.", "call_tech_when": "If the overheat fault recurs after bleeding the system, topping up fluid and confirming the pump runs, contact an Alde dealer.", "caveats": "A related Overheat blue fail message exists for the blue-cable overheat sensor; the manual lists it without separate detailed steps.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operating Instructions – Alde Compact 3020 HE", "publisher": "Alde International", "url": "https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554011225cb589a25f9ac/v-3020-05-rev1504-bruksanvisning-compact-3020he-en.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9:1 Error Messages – Overheat red fail; Section 10 Resetting" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/alde/furnace/overheat/", "meaning": "Der Überhitzungsschutz am roten Kabel hat ausgelöst. Der Boiler hat einen Übertemperaturzustand erreicht, häufig weil er mit hoher Leistung lief, während Luftblasen im Glykol-Heizkreislauf eine ordnungsgemäße Wärmeübertragung verhinderten." } }, { "brand": "alde", "brand_name": "Alde", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Overheat PCB", "code_slug": "overheat-pcb", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/alde/furnace/overheat-pcb/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The boiler's circuit board (PCB) failsafe over-temperature protection has triggered, typically because the boiler compartment is too hot or the heating fluid is low.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Boiler compartment poorly ventilated or vents obstructed", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Stowage placed in the boiler compartment blocking airflow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low fluid level in the expansion tank", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the fluid level in the expansion tank: about 1 cm above the Min mark when cool", "Make sure the boiler compartment is ventilated and the vents are not blocked", "Remove any items stored in the boiler compartment that could trap heat" ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear the compartment, restore ventilation and correct fluid level; allow the boiler to cool", "Reset: disconnect the panel from the boiler, remove 230V, and disconnect 12V from the boiler", "Reconnect power and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Alde Compact 3020 HE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never store items in or block the vents of the boiler compartment, as trapped heat can damage the boiler and is a fire/overheat hazard. Let the unit cool before servicing. Do not defeat the PCB failsafe.", "call_tech_when": "If ventilation is clear and fluid level is correct but the Overheat PCB fault persists, contact an Alde dealer.", "caveats": "Wording compiled from the operating instructions; phrasing of the on-screen message may vary slightly by firmware/panel version.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operating Instructions – Alde Compact 3020 HE", "publisher": "Alde International", "url": "https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554011225cb589a25f9ac/v-3020-05-rev1504-bruksanvisning-compact-3020he-en.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9:1 Error Messages – Overheat PCB" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/alde/furnace/overheat-pcb/", "meaning": "Der Übertemperaturschutz (Failsafe) der Steuerplatine (PCB) des Boilers hat ausgelöst, typischerweise weil das Boilerfach zu heiß ist oder die Heizflüssigkeit zu niedrig steht." } }, { "brand": "aqua-hot", "brand_name": "Aqua-Hot", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Fault Code 0 (1 blink)", "code_slug": "fault-0", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/aqua-hot/furnace/fault-0/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The diesel-burner indicator light is not lit even though the diesel-burner switch is ON. The controller is not receiving the conditions it needs to power up the burner, usually because a safety interlock is open or 12V power is missing.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Access cover removed, so the interlock safety switch keeps the burner disabled", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown fuse for the diesel-burner switch or no 12V power at the burner controller", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Coolant/antifreeze low-level float switch tripped", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Interlock switch wiring disconnected or interlock switch has no continuity", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the burner access cover is fully installed and seated so the interlock switch is held closed", "Check the diesel-burner fuse (B-fuse) on the fuse block for 12V power", "Verify the coolant/antifreeze level in the expansion tank is not low enough to trip the float switch", "Inspect the interlock switch wiring for loose or disconnected connectors" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the underlying condition first (replace fuse, refit cover, top up fluid)", "Turn the diesel-burner switch OFF for about 30 seconds", "Turn the diesel-burner switch back ON and watch whether the indicator light illuminates" ], "affected_models": [ "Aqua-Hot 375-D02", "AHE-375-D02" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The diesel burner uses 120V AC and 12V DC and produces hot combustion exhaust. Disconnect 120V AC shore/generator power before any servicing to avoid electric shock. The interlock that disables the burner with the cover off is a safety device; never bypass it, and never operate the burner with the exhaust path blocked, since diesel combustion produces carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "If 12V power, fuse, fluid level and interlock all check out but the burner still will not power up, or if you are not comfortable testing the float/interlock switches, contact Aqua-Hot Technical Support at 1-800-685-4298.", "caveats": "Aqua-Hot indicates faults by a counted blink sequence rather than a numeric display; this manual is for the 375-D02 model and blink-count assignments can differ on other Aqua-Hot models and controller generations.", "sources": [ { "title": "Aqua-Hot 375-D02 Hydronic Heating System Service Manual (Rev. E)", "publisher": "Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.", "url": "https://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/375-D02_Service_manual_Rev_E.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9: Switch Panel Blinking Fault Indicator Light, Fault Code 0, p.94" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "aqua-hot", "brand_name": "Aqua-Hot", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Fault Code 1", "code_slug": "fault-1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/aqua-hot/furnace/fault-1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Low supply voltage detected by the diesel-burner controller. The 12V supply is below the minimum the controller needs (about 11.1V) either at startup or during the burner cycle, so the system shuts the burner down to protect it.", "causes": [ { "cause": "House/chassis battery voltage drops below about 11.1V", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Voltage starts adequate but sags below 11.1V during the burner's run cycle (weak battery, high load)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Poor or corroded 12V power/ground connections to the burner controller", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure 12V battery voltage and confirm it stays above 11.1V at rest", "Run the burner cycle while monitoring voltage at the controller to see if it sags under load", "Charge or recharge the house batteries and retest", "Inspect 12V power and ground connections for corrosion or looseness" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore adequate battery voltage (charge batteries, reduce load, connect to shore power/generator)", "Turn the diesel-burner switch OFF for about 30 seconds", "Turn the switch back ON to clear the blinking fault and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Aqua-Hot 375-D02", "AHE-375-D02" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Low-voltage shutdown is a protective function. Work on the 12V system with care; do not short battery terminals. If you also service the unit, disconnect 120V AC power first to avoid shock from the electric heating element circuit.", "call_tech_when": "If battery voltage is confirmed healthy and stable above 11.1V but the low-voltage fault keeps recurring, have the controller and wiring inspected or call Aqua-Hot Technical Support at 1-800-685-4298.", "caveats": "Exact voltage thresholds and blink assignments are from the 375-D02 manual; other Aqua-Hot models may use different thresholds.", "sources": [ { "title": "Aqua-Hot 375-D02 Hydronic Heating System Service Manual (Rev. E)", "publisher": "Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.", "url": "https://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/375-D02_Service_manual_Rev_E.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9, Fault Code 1, p.94" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "aqua-hot", "brand_name": "Aqua-Hot", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Fault Code 8", "code_slug": "fault-8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/aqua-hot/furnace/fault-8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The burner failed to ignite on its initial start attempt, or the right high-limit thermostat tripped. The controller ran the start sequence but the flame sensor never confirmed a flame, commonly due to a fuel-delivery problem, overheat, or low voltage during startup.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Inadequate fuel supply (low tank, air in fuel line, clogged fuel filter)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty fuel solenoid or obstructed/contaminated fuel nozzle", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Right high-limit thermostat tripped (overheat) or shorted to ground", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Defective ignition module or incorrect combustion-air setting", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Supply voltage dropping below 11V DC during the startup cycle", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the vehicle's diesel fuel supply is adequate (this draws from the chassis tank, often via a standpipe so it can't run the tank dry)", "Check the fuel filter for clogging and the fuel nozzle for obstructions or contamination", "Test both high-limit thermostats for continuity and press the reset button if tripped", "Verify 12V stays above 11V during the start cycle" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the fuel, overheat or voltage condition first", "If a high-limit thermostat tripped, allow the unit to cool and press its white reset button", "Turn the diesel-burner switch OFF for about 30 seconds, then back ON to clear the fault and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Aqua-Hot 375-D02", "AHE-375-D02" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Diesel fuel and hot combustion components are involved. Do not attempt to manually prime or force ignition repeatedly, as unburned diesel can accumulate. Ensure the exhaust is clear; diesel combustion produces carbon monoxide. Disconnect 120V AC before opening the unit.", "call_tech_when": "If fuel supply, filter, nozzle, thermostats and voltage are all good but ignition still fails, the ignition module or controller likely needs service. Contact a qualified technician or Aqua-Hot Technical Support at 1-800-685-4298.", "caveats": "Blink-count to fault mapping is specific to the 375-D02 controller; other Aqua-Hot generations differ.", "sources": [ { "title": "Aqua-Hot 375-D02 Hydronic Heating System Service Manual (Rev. E)", "publisher": "Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.", "url": "https://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/375-D02_Service_manual_Rev_E.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9, Fault Code 8, p.95" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "aqua-hot", "brand_name": "Aqua-Hot", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Fault Code 9", "code_slug": "fault-9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/aqua-hot/furnace/fault-9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Re-ignition failure. The burner lit and established a flame, the flame then went out during operation, and the burner failed to re-light on its re-ignition sequence.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Dirty or fouled flame sensor lens so the controller cannot confirm the re-lit flame", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Obstructed or contaminated fuel nozzle interrupting fuel delivery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Too much combustion air for the burner", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Poor chassis ground connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect and gently clean the flame sensor lens so it can detect flame", "Check the fuel nozzle for obstructions or contaminants", "Verify the combustion-air setting is correct (not set too high)", "Confirm the chassis ground connection is clean and secure" ], "reset_steps": [ "Clean the flame sensor lens and clear any fuel/air issue first", "Turn the diesel-burner switch OFF for about 30 seconds", "Turn the switch back ON to clear the fault and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Aqua-Hot 375-D02", "AHE-375-D02" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A flame-out followed by failed re-ignition can leave unburned diesel in the combustion chamber. Do not repeatedly retry ignition. Make sure the exhaust path is unobstructed before restarting, since incomplete combustion can produce carbon monoxide. Disconnect 120V AC before servicing.", "call_tech_when": "If cleaning the flame sensor and checking the nozzle, combustion air and ground do not resolve repeated flame-outs, have the burner serviced or call Aqua-Hot Technical Support at 1-800-685-4298.", "caveats": "Specific to the 375-D02 controller; blink assignments vary across Aqua-Hot models.", "sources": [ { "title": "Aqua-Hot 375-D02 Hydronic Heating System Service Manual (Rev. E)", "publisher": "Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.", "url": "https://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/375-D02_Service_manual_Rev_E.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 9, Fault Code 9, p.95" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "1 flash", "code_slug": "1-flash", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/1-flash/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "One LED flash followed by a 3-second pause, repeating. Indicates a limit switch / airflow problem: the board is not seeing the conditions it expects for safe airflow/temperature. This is a soft lockout, so the furnace will keep retrying once the underlying airflow/limit condition clears.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked or restricted airflow (blocked return-air opening, closed/crushed heat ducts, blocked exhaust/intake vent, debris in blower)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Limit switch (overheat safety) tripped open due to overheating", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak or failing blower motor / low blower speed from low voltage", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty limit switch or its wiring", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure nothing blocks the return-air grille and that supply registers/ducts are open and unobstructed.", "Check the exterior intake/exhaust vent for blockage (nests, snow, debris) and clear it.", "Listen to the blower: it should spin up strongly. Verify a healthy 12V supply, since low voltage slows the blower and can trip the limit.", "Let the furnace cool fully, then call for heat again; a one-time overheat trip may clear on its own once airflow is restored." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear the airflow restriction or let the furnace cool so the limit switch resets.", "Turn the thermostat off and the setpoint all the way down; wait for the blower to stop.", "Turn the thermostat back on and raise the setpoint. If it ran into a hard condition, also cycle 12V power off for ~30 seconds before restarting." ], "affected_models": [ "AFMD16", "AFMD20", "AFMD25", "AFMD30", "AFMD35", "Atwood Hydroflame AFM/AFMD series furnaces with the standard 3-tries-for-ignition diagnostic control board" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane combustion appliance. Never operate it with blocked exhaust or intake vents, which can cause overheating or unsafe combustion. If you smell gas, shut off the propane at the tank, ventilate, do not use switches or flames, and leave the RV before calling a technician.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if the 1-flash code persists after you have confirmed clear airflow, clear vents, a healthy battery/voltage, and a working blower, since the limit switch or blower motor may be faulty and a repeatedly tripping overheat limit indicates a real safety problem.", "caveats": "Applies to the single-stage standard ignition control board. The fault groups 'limit switch' and 'airflow' together, so the code does not by itself tell you which one; airflow restriction and overheat trips are the usual first things to check.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic (Atwood) Furnace Model AFM, AFMD Series Operating Instructions", "publisher": "Forest River, Inc. (OEM-hosted manufacturer document)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Heating%20-%20Air%20Conditioning/Dometic%20(Atwood)%20-%20Furnace%20Model%20AFM,%20AFMD%20Series%20Operating%20Instructions.pdf", "manualRef": "Ignition Control Diagnostic Codes chart: 'Limit Switch/Airflow Problems - 1-Flash With 3-Second Pause - Soft'" }, { "title": "Atwood Furnace AFM Operating/Service Manual", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products (Heartland Owners manuals library)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Atwood/Furnace%20Atwood%20AFM.PDF", "manualRef": "Diagnostic chart: Limit Switch/Airflow Problems = 1 flash with 3-second pause, Soft lockout" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "2 flashes", "code_slug": "2-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/2-flashes/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Two LED flashes followed by a 3-second pause, repeating. Indicates a flame sense fault: the board is not getting a valid flame-sense signal (for example it lit but could not confirm/hold the flame). This is a hard lockout for safety, so the furnace stops and must be manually reset.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Dirty, corroded, or sooted flame-sense electrode tip preventing a good flame signal", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Poor ground at the burner/electrode (the flame-sense circuit needs a good ground path)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electrode positioned wrong, cracked ceramic, or damaged sense wire", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak flame from low gas pressure or partially clogged burner orifice, so the board loses the flame signal", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect the flame-sense/igniter electrode at the burner: clean a lightly oxidized tip with fine abrasive (e.g. fine sandpaper or a clean abrasive pad) and remove soot.", "Check that the electrode and its wire are intact, the ceramic is not cracked, and the ground connections at the burner are clean and tight.", "Confirm the propane tank is not empty and the gas valve is open, since starvation can show up as lost flame.", "After cleaning, reset and watch one cycle to see whether the flame is established and held." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the wall thermostat off and the setpoint all the way down; wait for the blower to stop.", "Remove 12V power from the furnace for about 30 seconds (a hard lockout requires a thermostat or power-switch reset).", "Restore power, turn the thermostat back on, and call for heat." ], "affected_models": [ "AFMD16", "AFMD20", "AFMD25", "AFMD30", "AFMD35", "Atwood Hydroflame AFM/AFMD series furnaces with the standard 3-tries-for-ignition diagnostic control board" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane combustion appliance and a flame fault is safety-critical. Do not bypass the flame-sense safety. If you smell gas at any point, shut off propane at the tank, ventilate, avoid switches and open flames, leave the RV, and call a qualified technician. Always disconnect 12V power before working near the burner and electrode.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if the 2-flash code returns after cleaning/checking the electrode and ground, or if you suspect low gas pressure, a faulty gas valve, or a wiring fault. Repeated flame loss should be diagnosed professionally before continued use.", "caveats": "Distinguish from the 3-flash 'ignition lockout' code: 2 flashes is specifically a flame-sense (hard) fault, whereas 3 flashes is a failure to ignite across the retry sequence. Some third-party summaries blur the two; the manufacturer chart keeps them separate.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic (Atwood) Furnace Model AFM, AFMD Series Operating Instructions", "publisher": "Forest River, Inc. (OEM-hosted manufacturer document)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Heating%20-%20Air%20Conditioning/Dometic%20(Atwood)%20-%20Furnace%20Model%20AFM,%20AFMD%20Series%20Operating%20Instructions.pdf", "manualRef": "Ignition Control Diagnostic Codes chart: 'Flame Sense Fault - 2-Flashes With 3-Second Pause - Hard'" }, { "title": "Atwood Furnace AFM Operating/Service Manual", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products (Heartland Owners manuals library)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Atwood/Furnace%20Atwood%20AFM.PDF", "manualRef": "Diagnostic chart: Flame Sense Fault = 2 flashes with 3-second pause, Hard lockout" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "3 flashes", "code_slug": "3-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/3-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Three LED flashes followed by a 3-second pause, repeating. Indicates an ignition lockout fault: the board tried to light the burner (typically three tries) and failed, so it locked out. This is a soft lockout with roughly a one-hour timed retry, meaning the board may attempt ignition again on its own after the timeout.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of propane, propane valve closed, or air in the gas lines after running the tank low", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Dirty or misadjusted igniter/flame electrode, or bad electrode gap, so no flame is established", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low gas pressure or partially blocked burner orifice / spider or insect obstruction in the burner tube", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty gas valve, igniter, or low 12V supply causing weak spark", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane tank has fuel and the valve is open; after refilling, the system may need a few ignition attempts to purge air from the line.", "Verify a healthy 12V battery/converter supply, since weak voltage produces weak spark.", "With power off, inspect the igniter/flame electrode for soot, corrosion, or bad position, and check the burner tube for obstructions (e.g. insect nests).", "Reset and watch a full ignition cycle to see whether spark, gas, and flame all occur." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the wall thermostat off and the setpoint all the way down; wait for the blower to stop.", "Either wait out the approximately one-hour timed soft-lockout for an automatic retry, or force an immediate reset by removing 12V power from the furnace for about 30 seconds.", "Restore power, turn the thermostat back on, and raise the setpoint to call for heat." ], "affected_models": [ "AFMD16", "AFMD20", "AFMD25", "AFMD30", "AFMD35", "Atwood Hydroflame AFM/AFMD series furnaces with the standard 3-tries-for-ignition diagnostic control board" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane combustion appliance. Repeated failed ignition attempts can release unburned propane; ventilate and do not keep forcing retries if you smell gas. If you smell gas, shut off propane at the tank, ventilate, avoid switches and flames, leave the RV, and call a qualified technician.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if the 3-flash code persists after confirming propane supply, healthy voltage, and a clean/properly positioned electrode, or if you are not comfortable working around the gas valve and burner. Persistent no-ignition may indicate a faulty gas valve, igniter, or control board.", "caveats": "The roughly one-hour timed retry ('three try, one-hour lockout, then three retry') is described in the Atwood service literature; exact retry counts and timing can vary slightly by board revision and by single-stage vs two-stage controls. The 3-flash ignition-lockout code is distinct from the 2-flash flame-sense hard lockout.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic (Atwood) Furnace Model AFM, AFMD Series Operating Instructions", "publisher": "Forest River, Inc. (OEM-hosted manufacturer document)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Heating%20-%20Air%20Conditioning/Dometic%20(Atwood)%20-%20Furnace%20Model%20AFM,%20AFMD%20Series%20Operating%20Instructions.pdf", "manualRef": "Ignition Control Diagnostic Codes chart: 'Ignition Lockout Fault - 3-Flashes With 3-Second Pause - Soft (1 hr.)'" }, { "title": "Atwood Shop/Service Manual - HydroFlame (2-stage furnace diagnostics section)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products (service manual hosted by My RV Works)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Shop-Manual-HydroFlame.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of operation/limit-switch section: control will 'lock out (three try for ignition, one hour lockout and then three retry)'; diagnostic chart defines LED flash codes" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "4 flashes", "code_slug": "4-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/4-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On a 2-stage Excalibur furnace control board, four flashes of the diagnostic LED report a stuck (or improperly closed) sail switch. The board believes the air-proving sail switch is reading closed when it should be open, so it refuses to run as a safety measure. This is a HARD lockout, meaning the furnace will not retry on its own.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Sail switch contacts stuck closed or a sail switch wired/installed incorrectly", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Debris, dust, or a bent sail vane holding the switch in the wrong position", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring fault or short in the sail switch circuit feeding the board", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed sail switch needing replacement", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn the furnace off at the thermostat and the 12V power switch before opening anything.", "Remove the exterior access cover and locate the sail switch near the blower wheel.", "Inspect the sail vane for bent tabs, dust buildup, or anything physically holding it closed; gently clean with a soft brush.", "Confirm the sail switch wires are seated on the correct terminals and not pinched or shorted.", "Verify the diagnostic LED is on the 2-stage board (outer edge, inside the access cover) so you are reading the correct chart." ], "reset_steps": [ "Set the thermostat to OFF.", "Switch the furnace power switch off, wait about 30 seconds.", "Switch power back on and raise the thermostat to call for heat; a HARD lockout clears only after this power/thermostat reset." ], "affected_models": [ "Atwood/Dometic 2-stage Excalibur furnaces", "Model 1522", "Model 2334", "Model 2540" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This furnace burns LP (propane) gas and vents combustion exhaust outside. The sail switch is a safety device that proves airflow before the burner lights; never bypass, jumper, or tape it closed to force operation. Defeating it can allow burner operation without proper airflow, creating overheating, fire, and carbon monoxide exposure risk.", "call_tech_when": "If the sail switch is clean and correctly wired but the 4-flash code returns, or if you find melted wiring or repeated lockouts, have a certified RV technician test and replace the switch and inspect the gas/exhaust system.", "caveats": "This 4-flash code is specific to the 2-stage Excalibur control board (models 1522, 2334, 2540). Single-stage 85xx furnaces use a different board and a different flash legend, so do not apply this meaning to a single-stage furnace. Always confirm the legend printed on your specific board.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Shop Manual - HydroFlame Furnaces (2-Stage Furnace Diagnostics chart)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products / hosted by MyRVWorks", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Shop-Manual-HydroFlame.pdf", "manualRef": "Diagnostic Chart - 2-Stage Furnace Diagnostics: 4 flashes = Stuck Sail Switch (HARD)" }, { "title": "Atwood 2-Stage Wiring Diagram (Models 1522 & 2334)", "publisher": "PDX RV Wholesale Tech Support", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/ATWOOD-2-STAGE-WIRING-DIAGRAM.pdf", "manualRef": "2-Stage furnace models 1522 & 2334 diagnostic board reference" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "5 flashes", "code_slug": "5-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/5-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On a 2-stage Excalibur furnace control board, five flashes indicate a module (control board) fault. The board's internal self-check failed, so it shuts the furnace down. This is a HARD lockout and usually points to the control module itself rather than an external switch.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal microprocessor or control module failure", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Power-supply problems or voltage spikes that corrupted the board's self-test", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded main connector at the board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn the furnace off at the thermostat and power switch before inspecting.", "Check the 12V battery voltage and that connections at the furnace are clean and tight (low/dirty power can trigger faults).", "Inspect the main wiring connector on the board for corrosion or partial seating.", "Try one full power-off/power-on reset to confirm the code is persistent and not a one-time glitch." ], "reset_steps": [ "Set thermostat to OFF.", "Turn the furnace power switch off for about 30 seconds.", "Restore power and call for heat; if 5 flashes return, the module fault is persistent." ], "affected_models": [ "Atwood/Dometic 2-stage Excalibur furnaces", "Model 1522", "Model 2334", "Model 2540" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not attempt to repair or re-solder the control module. A faulty board can mismanage the LP gas valve and ignition; replacement with the correct Atwood/Dometic part by a qualified technician is the safe path. Keep the furnace off until resolved to avoid unsafe ignition attempts.", "call_tech_when": "If a power reset does not clear the 5-flash code, have a certified RV technician confirm the diagnosis and replace the control module with the correct OEM board.", "caveats": "Specific to the 2-stage Excalibur board (models 1522, 2334, 2540). A genuine module fault is uncommon; rule out low battery voltage and connector issues first. Single-stage 85xx boards do not use this 5-flash code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Shop Manual - HydroFlame Furnaces (2-Stage Furnace Diagnostics chart)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products / hosted by MyRVWorks", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Shop-Manual-HydroFlame.pdf", "manualRef": "Diagnostic Chart - 2-Stage Furnace Diagnostics: 5 flashes = Module Fault (HARD)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Steady on (no flash)", "code_slug": "steady-on", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/furnace/steady-on/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The diagnostic LED on the ignition control board is on continuously with no flashing, indicating an internal circuit board failure. This is a hard lockout: the furnace will not run until the board is reset (and, if the fault repeats, the board itself is likely faulty).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed or faulty ignition control / circuit board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low or unstable 12V DC supply voltage to the board (weak battery, corroded connections, undersized wiring)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or reversed power/ground connections at the board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Moisture or pest/wiring damage on the board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the furnace has a strong 12V DC supply: check battery state of charge and that the converter is working; Atwood boards misbehave below roughly 10.5-11V.", "Inspect the furnace power and ground connections for looseness, corrosion, or chafed wires; clean and re-seat connectors with power off.", "Try a single reset (thermostat off, then 12V power removed for ~30 seconds, then restored). If the steady light returns immediately, stop and have the board diagnosed." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the wall thermostat off and turn the temperature setting all the way down.", "Wait for the blower fan to stop.", "Remove 12V DC power from the furnace (switch off the furnace circuit or disconnect the fuse) for about 30 seconds.", "Restore power, turn the thermostat back on, and raise the setpoint to call for heat." ], "affected_models": [ "AFMD16", "AFMD20", "AFMD25", "AFMD30", "AFMD35", "Atwood Hydroflame AFM/AFMD series furnaces with the 'standard 3 tries for ignition' diagnostic control board" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane (LP gas) combustion appliance. If you ever smell gas (rotten-egg odor), do not operate the furnace or any electrical switch, do not look for the leak with a flame: shut off the propane at the tank, ventilate the RV, leave, and call a qualified technician. Always turn off 12V power before touching wiring or connectors on the control board.", "call_tech_when": "Call a qualified RV technician if the LED stays steady-on after a proper power-cycle reset, or if you are not comfortable verifying 12V supply and connections. A persistent internal-board-failure indication generally means the control board needs professional diagnosis or replacement.", "caveats": "Code applies to the single-stage 'standard 3 tries for ignition' Atwood/Dometic AFM/AFMD control board. Two-stage boards use a similar but separate chart. A steady-on light can sometimes also reflect a power/voltage problem rather than a truly dead board, so verify supply voltage before condemning the board.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic (Atwood) Furnace Model AFM, AFMD Series Operating Instructions", "publisher": "Forest River, Inc. (OEM-hosted manufacturer document)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Heating%20-%20Air%20Conditioning/Dometic%20(Atwood)%20-%20Furnace%20Model%20AFM,%20AFMD%20Series%20Operating%20Instructions.pdf", "manualRef": "Ignition Control Diagnostic Codes chart (Standard 3 Tries for Ignition Controls): 'Internal Circuit Board Failure - Steady On, No Flashing - Hard' lockout" }, { "title": "Atwood Furnace AFM Operating/Service Manual", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products (manual hosted at Heartland Owners manuals library)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Atwood/Furnace%20Atwood%20AFM.PDF", "manualRef": "Ignition Control Diagnostic Codes: Internal Circuit Board Failure = Steady On, No Flashing, Hard lockout; covers models AFMD16/20/25/30/35" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "DSI Fault / Lock-Out", "code_slug": "dsi-fault", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/dsi-fault/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Atwood DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) water heaters there is no multi-digit numeric code. Instead a single non-ignition (lock-out) lamp lights at the remote ON/OFF switch in the coach. When you switch the heater on, the control board energizes both the gas solenoid valve and the spark electrodes for a trial-for-ignition period of about 6 to 8 seconds. The board makes up to three ignition attempts; if a flame is not proven after the third try, the board stops and goes into lock-out, lighting the fault lamp. The lamp means the unit tried to fire and failed, OR a safety switch (ECO / thermal cut-off) has opened the circuit.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low LP gas supply or empty/closed tank, or incorrect gas manifold pressure (should be 11 inch water column under load)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low DC supply voltage to the board (needs about 10.5 VDC minimum) or weak/dead house battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty, cracked, or mis-gapped spark electrodes (gap should be about 1/8 inch) so no spark is produced", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blocked main burner tube or burner orifice (often spider webs / mud-wasp nests) so gas cannot reach the spark", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or open wiring at the ECO, solenoid valve, or the 4-pin connector on the circuit board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open ECO (energy cut-off) or open one-shot thermal cut-off fuse breaking the circuit to the board", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Defective gas solenoid valve or defective circuit board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the LP tank has gas and the valve is open, and that another gas appliance (stove/furnace) lights normally to prove gas pressure and a primed line.", "Check the house battery / 12V supply; a low battery can cause repeated lock-outs even when gas is fine.", "Switch the water heater OFF, wait, then switch ON again and listen for the rapid clicking of the spark and watch for ignition within the first several seconds.", "With power off, inspect the spark electrodes for soot, cracks in the ceramic, or a wrong gap (about 1/8 inch) and gently clean them.", "Look into the burner tube and flue for spider webs, insect nests, or soot blocking gas flow or exhaust, and clean the burner tube with a brush (not compressed air).", "Tug-test the spade connectors and the 4-pin plug at the circuit board, and check the green ground wire screwed to the flue box for a tight, corrosion-free connection." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the water heater OFF at the remote switch for about 30 seconds to clear the lock-out, then turn it back ON to start a fresh ignition sequence.", "If it locks out again, correct the underlying cause (gas, battery, electrodes, blockage) before retrying rather than repeatedly cycling the switch.", "If the one-shot thermal cut-off fuse has tripped from overheating, it is a sacrificial part and must be replaced (not reset) after the cause of overheating is removed." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E", "GC6AA-7E", "GH6-8E", "Dometic-branded equivalents (e.g. WH6GEA)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "You are working around LP (propane) gas and a 12V/120V appliance. Smell for gas before and during testing; if you smell propane, stop, ventilate, and do not create sparks. Repeated manual re-tries dump raw gas into the burner chamber, so never bypass or jumper the ECO or thermal cut-off safety switches. The thermal cut-off trips near 190 F to prevent a fire from a blocked flue, so a part that keeps tripping signals a real overheating hazard, not a nuisance.", "call_tech_when": "If gas, battery voltage, electrodes, and blockages all check out but the unit still locks out, or if the ECO/thermal cut-off keeps tripping, or if you smell gas or see scorching around the heater, stop and call a qualified RV technician.", "caveats": "Atwood/Dometic gas-absorption-style water heaters use a single steady lock-out lamp, NOT a counted blink/flash code like Atwood furnaces. Anyone expecting a numbered flash code on this water heater will not find one; the diagnosis is by sub-condition (spark/no spark, gas/no gas) per the trouble-shooting tables. The number of ignition tries depends on the board generation, and Atwood's own manuals disagree across editions: the 2004 edition of the service manual describes a single 6-8 second trial before lock-out, while the editions effective January 2007 and February 2014 describe a board that makes three tries. An Atwood that locks out after one short attempt is therefore not necessarily faulty; it may simply carry the older board.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Water Heaters Service Manual (Electronic Ignition Models, DSI Sequence of Operation & Trouble Shooting Guide)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI Sequence of Operation (Circuit Board: 6-8 sec trial, 3 tries, lock-out + non-ignition lamp); Electronic Ignition Trouble Shooting Guide, effective 2/10/14" }, { "title": "Atwood Water Heater Service Manual", "publisher": "Heartland Owners (hosted Atwood manual)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Plumbing/Wtr_Heater/Atwood/Atwood%20Water%20Heater%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Electronic Ignition / DSI section" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-09-23", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "ECO open / tripped", "code_slug": "eco-tripped", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/eco-tripped/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The ECO is a backup high-limit temperature switch wired in series with the control. On DSI/electronic models it is a surface-mounted disc thermostat that, with the regular thermostat, controls current to the circuit board; if it opens, the board loses its enabling circuit and the unit will not fire (showing as a lock-out / fault lamp). On gas/pilot operation the ECO in the gas valve trips permanently open if water temperature exceeds about 190 F; on the 110V electric backup thermostat/ECO the backup trips if water exceeds about 170 F. There is also a manual-reset high-temperature limit switch on the 110V electric side.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Genuine over-temperature event (e.g., thermostat stuck closed letting water overheat)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "ECO disc not seated flush against the tank or a defective/open ECO", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded wiring at the ECO terminals", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "On 110V electric side, the manual-reset high-temp limit switch has tripped and needs its reset button pressed", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "On the 110V electric portion, with power OFF, locate and press the manual-reset (ECO re-set) button on the high-temperature limit switch.", "With power off and a multimeter, check continuity across the ECO; an open ECO with cold water means it is blown and must be replaced.", "Confirm the ECO and thermostat discs are seated flush against the tank surface.", "Inspect and tighten the ECO terminal wiring for corrosion or looseness." ], "reset_steps": [ "For the 110V electric backup, press the manual reset button after the water has cooled.", "The gas-side ECO in the valve trips permanently open and is not resettable; if blown it must be replaced.", "Restore power / switch the heater off and on once the limit device is reset or replaced." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E", "GC6AA-7E" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "An ECO that trips is doing its job preventing scald-hot or boiling water and tank damage. Never jumper or bypass the ECO. If it trips repeatedly, the controlling thermostat or valve is faulty and the water could reach dangerous temperatures; treat it as a real hazard. On the 110V side you are also working near line voltage, so kill power before touching terminals.", "call_tech_when": "If the ECO keeps tripping after reset/replacement, or the thermostat is suspected of running the water too hot, stop and call a qualified RV technician.", "caveats": "Trip temperatures (190 F gas-side ECO, 170 F electric backup, 190 F one-shot thermal cut-off) are from the Atwood manual and vary by model/era; the gas-side ECO is non-resettable while the 110V high-limit has a manual reset button. Always confirm against the label on the specific unit.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Water Heaters Service Manual (DSI Sequence of Operation; 110VAC Bolt-In / Screw-In Heating Element, Thermostat & ECO Trouble-Shooting)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "Pilot Sequence E.C.O. trips above 190F; Screw-In Element ECO backup trips above 170F; manual-reset high-temp limit switch on 110V side" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Gas & spark, no flame proven", "code_slug": "no-flame-proven", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/no-flame-proven/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A diagnostic sub-condition of the DSI lock-out: both gas and spark are present but the flame either does not establish or is not sensed reliably, so the board still locks out. Usually a combustion-quality or grounding/alignment problem.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Incorrect gas pressure (set inlet to 11 inch W.C. with two or more appliances running)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Poor electrical ground (the spark/sense circuit needs a good ground to prove flame)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electrodes sparking out of the flame pattern, or to the burner screw, or dirty electrodes", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Partial obstruction or partially blocked orifice in the main burner, or mis-set air shutter", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Mis-aligned flame spreader or solenoid valve/manifold not aligned with the main burner", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Low DC voltage, partially opening solenoid valve, or defective circuit board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm gas pressure with another appliance running and set to about 11 inch W.C.", "Secure a clean electrical ground (green wire to the flue box) since flame sensing depends on it.", "Clean electrodes and re-aim them into the flame path, away from the burner screw.", "Set the burner air shutter roughly 1/4 open and check that the flame spreader is square to the end of the burner tube; the flame should be mostly blue and quiet." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch OFF about 30 seconds and back ON after correcting pressure, ground, or alignment." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A burner that lights but locks out on flame sensing can deposit soot and indicate poor combustion; do not keep it running if you see heavy yellow flame, sooting, or smell exhaust. Never enlarge the orifice and never defeat the ground or safety switches.", "call_tech_when": "If pressure, ground, electrodes, air, and alignment are correct but the burner still will not stay proven, have a technician check the solenoid valve and board.", "caveats": "Sub-condition within the single lock-out lamp indication, not a separately displayed code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Electronic Ignition Water Heater Trouble Shooting Guide", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "Trouble Shooting Guide, section 'WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - GAS AND SPARK PRESENT', effective 2/10/14" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Gas present, no spark", "code_slug": "gas-no-spark", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/gas-no-spark/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A diagnostic sub-condition of the DSI lock-out from the official trouble-shooting guide: gas is being delivered but the electrodes are not producing a spark, so the gas never lights and the board locks out.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Dirty electrodes, cracked porcelain on the electrode, or wires loose in the electrode porcelain", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Improper electrode gap (should be re-set to about 1/8 inch and in the path of the flame)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High-tension lead wire loose, or electrodes loosely attached to the main burner", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Defective circuit board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect electrodes for soot, cracked ceramic, and loose wires; clean them.", "Re-set the spark gap to about 1/8 inch and make sure the electrodes sit in the gas path.", "Confirm the high-tension lead and the electrode mounting at the burner are tight." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch OFF about 30 seconds and back ON after cleaning/re-gapping the electrodes." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Because gas is flowing without ignition, shut the unit off promptly and ventilate before working, and never test for spark with raw gas accumulating. Do not touch electrodes with power on, since the ignition voltage can shock you.", "call_tech_when": "If electrodes are clean, correctly gapped, and well connected but still produce no spark, the circuit board likely needs replacement by a technician.", "caveats": "Sub-condition within the single lock-out lamp indication, not a separately displayed code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Electronic Ignition Water Heater Trouble Shooting Guide", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "Trouble Shooting Guide, section 'WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - GAS PRESENT BUT NO SPARK', effective 2/10/14" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "No spark / no ignition", "code_slug": "no-spark", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/no-spark/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Dead unit with no spark at the electrode and no lockout-light activity, typically caused by a blown one-shot thermal cut-off (TCO) fuse on the power lead. The TCO permanently opens the circuit when the burner/flue area overheats (around 190°F) — usually from a blocked burner or flue — to prevent fire damage.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked burner tube or flue (spider/mud-dauber nest) causing overheating that blew the TCO fuse", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown thermal cut-off fuse (the clear plastic in-line fuse on the brown/power lead near the board)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown 12V fuse or no power to the board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board with no spark output", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify 12V power and check the unit's inline/12V fuse.", "Locate the thermal cut-off (clear plastic in-line device, looks like a resistor inside, on the brown power lead) and test for continuity with power off — no continuity means it has blown.", "Before replacing a blown TCO, find and clear the cause: inspect the burner tube and flue for insect nests/obstructions, because a fresh TCO will blow again if the blockage remains." ], "reset_steps": [], "affected_models": [ "G6A-7", "G6A-7E", "G6A-8E", "G6A series (DSI / electronic-ignition)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane combustion appliance. The TCO is a one-shot safety fuse that is NOT resettable — it must be replaced, and only after the overheating cause is corrected. Never bypass or jumper the thermal cut-off; doing so defeats a fire-safety device. If you smell gas, shut off propane and ventilate before doing anything else.", "call_tech_when": "If the TCO is blown, you cannot find an obvious blockage, or it blows again after replacement — have a qualified RV technician inspect the burner, flue, and gas valve. Repeated overheating indicates an unresolved combustion fault.", "caveats": "This is not an alphanumeric code — it presents as a dead/no-spark symptom. The trip temperature (~190°F) and fuse location vary slightly by model year. The TCO and the ECO are different devices and are easily confused (see next record).", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood G6A-7 / thermal cut-off no-spark troubleshooting", "publisher": "JustAnswer (RV)", "url": "https://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/mb6li-having-issues-rv-water-heater-atwood-g6a-7.html", "manualRef": "TCO fuse on power lead, no spark diagnosis" }, { "title": "A Complete Guide to Atwood RV Water Heater Problems", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store", "url": "https://news.rvupgradestore.com/atwood-rv-water-heater-problems/", "manualRef": "Thermal cut-off blows from burner-chamber overheating (insect nests)" }, { "title": "Atwood Water Heater Troubleshooting (Atwood service content)", "publisher": "All Things Foretravel", "url": "https://www.allthingsforetravel.com/2020/02/18/water-heater-atwood-water-heater-troubleshooting/", "manualRef": "TCO designed to permanently break circuit on overheat" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Spark present, no gas", "code_slug": "spark-no-gas", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/spark-no-gas/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A diagnostic sub-condition of the DSI lock-out from the official trouble-shooting guide: the electrodes are sparking (you hear/see the spark) but no gas reaches the burner, so no flame is proven and the board locks out after three tries.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Incorrect gas pressure or no gas to the solenoid valve (set inlet to 11 inch W.C. with two or more appliances running)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blocked main burner tube or blocked/dirty main burner orifice", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low DC voltage (below ~10.5 VDC) so the solenoid valve will not fully open", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded wiring at the ECO, the solenoid valve, or the circuit board pin connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Defective ECO, defective solenoid valve, or defective circuit board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify another LP appliance runs normally to confirm gas pressure and that air is purged from the line.", "Check 12V supply voltage is at least about 10.5 VDC at the heater while it is trying to fire.", "With power off, clean the brass burner orifice with isopropyl alcohol and never enlarge it, and brush out the burner tube.", "Secure and clean the wire connections at the ECO, solenoid valve, and the pin connector on the board." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch OFF about 30 seconds and back ON after correcting gas pressure, voltage, or a blockage.", "Do not repeatedly retry without fixing the cause, since each failed try releases unburned gas into the chamber." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Sparking with intermittent gas flow can ignite an accumulation of raw propane. Smell for gas, ventilate, and never enlarge the orifice or jumper the ECO. Confirm the LP system has correct pressure before repeated attempts.", "call_tech_when": "If gas pressure, voltage, orifice, and wiring are all good but gas still will not feed during spark, have a technician test the solenoid valve and board.", "caveats": "This is a sub-condition within the single lock-out lamp indication, not a separate displayed code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Electronic Ignition Water Heater Trouble Shooting Guide", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "Trouble Shooting Guide, section 'WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - SPARK PRESENT BUT NO GAS', effective 2/10/14" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "atwood", "brand_name": "Atwood", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "TCO (thermal cut-off) tripped", "code_slug": "tco-tripped", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/atwood/water-heater/tco-tripped/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Current Atwood DSI water heaters have a one-shot thermal cut-off device on the incoming power wire, connected to the thermostat. It is normally closed and feeds power to the thermostat/board. If excessive heat (around 190 F, typically from a blocked burner tube or flue tube) reaches it, it permanently opens and cuts power to the board, shutting the unit down. It is a sacrificial part like a fuse and must be replaced once tripped; the heater then shows no power / will not fire.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked main burner tube or flue tube (spider webs, mud-wasp nests, soot) causing flame/heat to roll out and overheat the cut-off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Exhaust grille installed upside-down (wide aluminum band at top) trapping exhaust heat", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Genuine combustion overheating from misalignment or improper installation", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Defective thermal cut-off device", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect and clean the main burner tube and the flue tube for insect nests and soot (brush the burner tube, swab the flue).", "Check the access-door grille orientation; the wide aluminum band should be at the BOTTOM, not the top.", "With a multimeter, check continuity across the thermal cut-off; an open device with the unit cold confirms it has tripped and needs replacement." ], "reset_steps": [ "The thermal cut-off cannot be reset; it must be replaced after the cause of overheating is removed.", "Clear all flue/burner obstructions and correct grille orientation before installing a new cut-off, then power up and test." ], "affected_models": [ "G6A-8E", "GC6AA-10E", "GCH6A-10E", "GC10A-4E", "GCH10A-4E" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A tripped thermal cut-off means the heater actually overheated, which is a fire-risk condition usually caused by a blocked flue. Do not simply replace the part and run it; find and clear the blockage first. Work with LP off and power off, and never bypass the thermal cut-off.", "call_tech_when": "If you cannot find the obstruction, if there is heat/scorch damage, or if a new thermal cut-off trips again, stop and call a qualified RV technician immediately.", "caveats": "The thermal cut-off is distinct from the ECO: it is on the incoming power wire and is non-resettable. Trip temperature (~190 F) and details are from the Atwood manual; confirm against the specific unit.", "sources": [ { "title": "Atwood Water Heaters Service Manual (Thermal Cut-Off Device; DSI Sequence of Operation)", "publisher": "Atwood Mobile Products LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf", "manualRef": "THERMAL CUT-OFF DEVICE section (one-shot, trips ~190F from blocked burner/flue, breaks circuit, sacrificial); DSI Sequence of Operation 'Thermal Cut-Off'" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Most commonly under-voltage: the heater senses supply voltage below the safe operating window and shuts down to protect itself. On some LCD-controller units E1 instead means a general start-up/ignition failure.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery voltage too low (weak, old, or deeply discharged battery)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop from undersized or corroded supply wiring / loose terminals", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Running off a battery while a heavy load or another appliance drags voltage down", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage at rest; a healthy 12V battery should read ~12.6V and a 24V system ~25V.", "Check that the controller's configured voltage (12V vs 24V) matches your actual system.", "Inspect and tighten battery terminals and inline fuse; look for corrosion or undersized wire.", "Confirm the unit gets full voltage at the heater end while running, not just at the battery." ], "reset_steps": [ "Charge or replace the battery, or connect to a stable power source.", "Switch the heater off and back on at the controller to clear the code.", "Restart and watch that voltage stays in range (roughly 9–18V for 12V units, 18–32V for 24V units)." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Low supply voltage during ignition can cause incomplete combustion and extra exhaust smoke — never run the heater with the exhaust inside a living/sleeping space, and keep a CO alarm fitted. Work on wiring only with power disconnected.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if voltage is confirmed good at the heater but E01 still appears, which points to a controller or board sensing fault.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: the widely-sold rotary/LCD Vevor-style units use E01 = under-voltage, while some LCD-screen controllers use E1 = start-up failure. Verify against your unit's manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E01 — Under Voltage" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E1 — Start-up Failure" } ], "confidence": 0.7, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e1/", "meaning": "Am häufigsten Unterspannung: Die Heizung erkennt eine Versorgungsspannung unterhalb des sicheren Betriebsbereichs und schaltet zum Selbstschutz ab. Bei einigen Geräten mit LCD-Bedienteil bedeutet E1 stattdessen einen allgemeinen Start-/Zündfehler." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Most commonly over-voltage: the supply voltage is above the safe limit and the heater shuts down to avoid damage. On some LCD-controller units E2 instead means flame-out (the flame went out during operation).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Charging system / alternator pushing voltage above the limit, or running 24V on a 12V-set unit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty or mis-set battery charger / DC-DC converter", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "(Flame-out variant) air in fuel line, blocked intake/exhaust, or fuel starvation", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure supply voltage with the engine running / charger on; confirm it stays under the unit's upper limit (~18V for 12V units, ~32V for 24V units).", "Verify the controller is set to the correct system voltage (12V vs 24V).", "If your unit treats E2 as flame-out, check fuel level, prime the line, and clear any intake/exhaust blockage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the over-voltage source (stop charging / correct the voltage setting).", "Power the heater off and on to clear the fault.", "Restart and confirm stable voltage and a sustained flame." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A flame-out (the alternate meaning) leaves unburned diesel and can cause a smoky re-light; never let raw exhaust enter an occupied space and keep a CO alarm fitted. Over-voltage can damage electronics — disconnect before working on wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if voltage is confirmed in range but E02 persists, or if repeated flame-outs continue after priming and clearing the air/exhaust path.", "caveats": "Two common meanings exist: E02 = over-voltage on rotary Vevor-style controllers, vs E2 = flame-off/flame-out on some LCD controllers. Confirm with your manual before acting.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E02 — Over Voltage" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E2 — Flame Off" } ], "confidence": 0.68, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e2/", "meaning": "Am häufigsten Überspannung: Die Versorgungsspannung liegt über dem sicheren Grenzwert und die Heizung schaltet ab, um Schäden zu vermeiden. Bei einigen Geräten mit LCD-Bedienteil bedeutet E2 stattdessen Flammabriss (die Flamme ist im Betrieb erloschen)." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the widely-sold Vevor-style controllers E03 indicates a glow plug (ignition plug) fault. On other LCD controllers E3 is used for a voltage/power-supply error instead.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Glow plug worn out, carbon-fouled, or burnt (common after 2–3 winters of use)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded glow plug connector / wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "(Voltage variant) supply outside the safe voltage window or undersized wiring", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and check the glow plug connector for a secure, clean connection.", "Listen/observe at startup for the normal pre-heat glow cycle; no glow suggests a dead plug.", "If your unit uses E3 as a voltage fault, measure supply voltage and verify the 12V/24V setting matches your system." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reseat the glow plug connector or replace a confirmed-faulty glow plug.", "Power-cycle the controller to clear the code.", "Restart and confirm a clean ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The glow plug and combustion chamber get extremely hot — only service after a full cooldown and with power disconnected. Failed ignition can leave unburned diesel; keep the exhaust routed outdoors and a CO alarm fitted.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if a new glow plug still throws E03, or if you are not comfortable opening the combustion chamber to replace the plug.", "caveats": "Meaning splits by controller: E03 = glow plug fault (Vevor rotary style) vs E3 = voltage/power-supply error (some LCD controllers). Always check your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E03 — Glow Plug Fault" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E3 — Voltage/Power Supply Error" } ], "confidence": 0.66, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e3/", "meaning": "Bei den weit verbreiteten Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil weist E03 auf einen Fehler der Glühkerze (Zündkerze) hin. Bei anderen LCD-Bedienteilen wird E3 stattdessen für einen Spannungs-/Stromversorgungsfehler verwendet." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Vevor-style controllers E04 indicates a fuel pump fault (pump disconnected or not pulsing). On some LCD controllers E4 instead flags an early-ignition condition from leftover fuel after an abnormal shutdown.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fuel pump connector loose or wiring fault", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed / seized fuel metering pump", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low battery voltage preventing the pump from firing", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "(Early-ignition variant) residual diesel left inside after a previous abnormal stop", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and check the fuel pump plug for a tight, clean connection.", "On a restart, listen for the pump's steady ticking; no ticking suggests a wiring or pump fault.", "Confirm battery voltage is healthy, since low voltage can stop the pump.", "If E4 is the early-ignition type, power the unit fully off and let it clear before restarting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reseat the pump connector or replace a confirmed-faulty pump.", "Power-cycle the controller.", "Restart and confirm the pump ticks and the heater lights." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on fuel lines and the pump only with the heater cool and power disconnected; diesel is flammable and spilled fuel near a hot heater is a fire hazard. Keep exhaust outdoors and a CO alarm fitted.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if a reseated/replaced pump still reports E04, or if you suspect fuel is reaching the chamber but not igniting.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: E04 = fuel pump fault (Vevor rotary style) vs E4 = early ignition / residual fuel (some LCD controllers). Verify against your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E04 — Fuel Pump Disconnected" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E4 — Early Ignition" } ], "confidence": 0.64, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e4/", "meaning": "Bei Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil weist E04 auf einen Fehler der Kraftstoffpumpe hin (Pumpe getrennt oder pulst nicht). Bei einigen LCD-Bedienteilen meldet E4 stattdessen eine Frühzündung durch Restkraftstoff nach einer unregelmäßigen Abschaltung." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e5/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "On Vevor-style controllers E05 is an over-heat (over-temperature) protection trip: the heat-exchanger temperature exceeded the safe limit and the unit shut down. (Note: the E0–E12 LCD convention does not use E5 at all.)", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked or restricted hot-air outlet or cold-air intake", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Kinked, crushed, or too-long warm-air ducting limiting airflow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Obstructed exhaust raising internal temperature", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty overheat/flame temperature sensor", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure both the intake and the hot-air outlet have several inches of unobstructed clearance.", "Check warm-air ducting for kinks, crushing, or blockage.", "Inspect the exhaust pipe for soot blockage or a crushed/blocked outlet.", "Let the unit cool fully before restarting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the airflow restriction or blockage.", "Allow the heater to cool completely, then power off and on.", "Restart and confirm it reaches and holds temperature without re-tripping." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheating is a genuine fire risk — never bypass or ignore an overheat trip, and never block the intake or outlet. Keep the exhaust routed fully outdoors and a CO alarm fitted; an overheating/struggling burn can raise CO output.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if E05 returns after clearing all airflow restrictions, which suggests a failing temperature sensor or sooted-up heat exchanger needing service.", "caveats": "E05 = overheat is specific to the Vevor-style rotary/LCD controllers; the alternate E0–E12 LCD convention does not have an E5 and handles overheat at E10 instead. Confirm with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E05 — Overheat" } ], "confidence": 0.66, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e5/", "meaning": "Bei Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil ist E05 eine Auslösung des Überhitzungsschutzes (Übertemperatur): Die Temperatur des Wärmetauschers hat den sicheren Grenzwert überschritten und das Gerät hat abgeschaltet. (Hinweis: Die E0–E12-LCD-Konvention verwendet E5 überhaupt nicht.)" } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E6", "code_slug": "e6", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e6/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Vevor-style controllers E06 indicates a fan / blower motor fault (the combustion/air fan is not spinning correctly). On some LCD controllers E6 instead flags a mainboard temperature-sensor error.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fan blade jammed by debris, soot, or a foreign object", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low supply voltage preventing the fan from reaching speed", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed fan motor, loose motor connector, or lost/dislodged speed-sensor magnet", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and check that the fan/impeller spins freely by hand with no rubbing or debris.", "Confirm battery voltage is healthy, since low voltage stalls the fan.", "Inspect the fan motor connector for a secure connection." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear any obstruction and reseat the fan connector.", "Power-cycle the controller.", "Restart and confirm the fan spins up to speed during purge and ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The fan also provides combustion air and cooling — never run the heater with a faulty fan, as poor airflow causes overheating and incomplete combustion (more CO). Service only when cool and disconnected; keep exhaust outdoors with a CO alarm.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if the fan is free and voltage is good but E06 persists, pointing to a failed motor or board.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: E06 = fan/blower motor fault (Vevor rotary style) vs E6 = mainboard sensor error (some LCD controllers). Check your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E06 — Fan Motor Fault" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E6 — Main Board Sensor Error" } ], "confidence": 0.64, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e6/", "meaning": "Bei Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil weist E06 auf einen Fehler des Lüfter-/Gebläsemotors hin (das Verbrennungs-/Luftgebläse dreht sich nicht korrekt). Bei einigen LCD-Bedienteilen meldet E6 stattdessen einen Temperatursensorfehler der Hauptplatine." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E7", "code_slug": "e7", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e7/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Vevor-style controllers E07 is a communication / broken-circuit error between the controller and the heater unit. On some LCD controllers E7 instead points to a fuel pump fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Controller cable unplugged, damaged, or with a corroded connector", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Broken wire or poor pin contact in the controller harness", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "(Fuel-pump variant) loose pump wiring or a failed pump", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and reseat the controller plug at both ends; check for bent pins or corrosion.", "Inspect the controller cable along its length for cuts, crushing, or chafing.", "If your unit uses E7 for the fuel pump, check the pump connector and wiring instead." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect or replace the damaged controller cable.", "Power-cycle the unit.", "Restart and confirm the controller communicates normally." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not improvise repairs to control wiring near fuel or hot components; work cool and with power off. Keep the exhaust routed outdoors and a CO alarm fitted whenever the heater runs.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if a known-good controller and cable still report E07, indicating a board-side communication fault.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: E07 = controller communication/broken-circuit error (Vevor rotary style) vs E7 = fuel pump fault (some LCD controllers). Verify with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E07 — Communication Error" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E7 — Fuel Pump Error" } ], "confidence": 0.6, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e7/", "meaning": "Bei Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil ist E07 ein Kommunikations-/Stromkreisunterbrechungsfehler zwischen dem Bedienteil und dem Heizgerät. Bei einigen LCD-Bedienteilen weist E7 stattdessen auf einen Fehler der Kraftstoffpumpe hin." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E8", "code_slug": "e8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Vevor-style controllers E08 is a flame-out / low-fuel fault — the flame failed or died, typically from running low on fuel or air in the fuel line. On some LCD controllers E8 instead indicates a fan/motor error.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fuel tank empty or near-empty", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air bubbles in the fuel line / pickup, or a not-yet-primed line", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Clogged fuel filter or partly blocked fuel line", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blocked intake or exhaust starving the flame", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the fuel level and top up if low.", "Look for air bubbles in the clear fuel line and prime/bleed the line if present.", "Inspect the fuel filter (if fitted) and confirm it is full and not clogged.", "Verify the intake and exhaust are clear." ], "reset_steps": [ "Refuel and/or prime the fuel line to remove air.", "Power off and on to clear the code.", "Restart; the first light after priming may smoke briefly, which is normal." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A flame-out can leave unburned diesel that re-lights with smoke — always vent exhaust fully outdoors and keep a CO alarm fitted. Never prime by over-fuelling a hot chamber; let it cool to reduce fire risk.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if fuel, filter, and air are all confirmed good but E08 keeps recurring, which can indicate a weak pump, sooted chamber, or fuel-delivery fault.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: E08 = flame-out / low fuel (Vevor rotary style, corroborated by two sources) vs E8 = motor/fan error (some LCD controllers). Confirm with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting Common Chinese Diesel Heater Error Codes", "publisher": "Avanlifething", "url": "https://avanlifething.com/chinese-diesel-heater-troubleshooting-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E08 — Low Fuel or Air in Fuel Lines" }, { "title": "HEATER ERROR CODES", "publisher": "ACLS Retail (Diesel Air Heating Specialist)", "url": "https://www.aclsretail.com/support-request/heater-error-codes", "manualRef": "E-08 — Low fuel or air in fuel lines" } ], "confidence": 0.7, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e8/", "meaning": "Bei Bedienteilen im Vevor-Stil ist E08 ein Fehler durch Flammabriss / niedrigen Kraftstoffstand — die Flamme ist ausgefallen oder erloschen, typischerweise durch zu niedrigen Kraftstoffstand oder Luft in der Kraftstoffleitung. Bei einigen LCD-Bedienteilen weist E8 stattdessen auf einen Lüfter-/Motorfehler hin." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E9", "code_slug": "e9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Commonly a glow plug / ignition-circuit electrical fault: the glow plug circuit is open, shorted, or the plug is not heating. On the Vevor-style rotary set E09 is described more generally as a sensor/ignition fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Worn, burnt, or carbon-fouled glow plug (frequent on 2–3 year old units)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Open or short circuit / loose connector in the glow plug wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control board fault driving the glow plug", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and inspect the glow plug connector for a clean, tight connection.", "Watch for the normal pre-heat glow at startup; absence suggests a dead plug.", "If comfortable, check the glow plug for continuity/resistance with the unit cold and disconnected." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reseat or replace a confirmed-faulty glow plug.", "Power-cycle the controller.", "Restart and confirm clean ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The glow plug sits in the hot combustion chamber — service only after full cooldown and with power disconnected. Repeated failed ignitions flood the chamber with diesel; keep exhaust outdoors and a CO alarm fitted.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if a new glow plug still reports E09, indicating a wiring or control-board fault.", "caveats": "Both major conventions associate E09/E9 with the glow plug/ignition circuit, though the Vevor rotary set labels it more broadly as a sensor/ignition fault. Verify with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "HEATER ERROR CODES", "publisher": "ACLS Retail (Diesel Air Heating Specialist)", "url": "https://www.aclsretail.com/support-request/heater-error-codes", "manualRef": "E-09 — electrical fault in the glow plug circuit" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E9 — Glow Plug Failure" } ], "confidence": 0.66, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e9/", "meaning": "Häufig ein elektrischer Fehler im Glühkerzen-/Zündstromkreis: Der Glühkerzenstromkreis ist unterbrochen, kurzgeschlossen, oder die Kerze heizt nicht auf. Beim Dreh-Bedienteil im Vevor-Stil wird E09 allgemeiner als Sensor-/Zündfehler beschrieben." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E10", "code_slug": "e10", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e10/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Two documented meanings: (1) repeated start-up failure — the heater has tried and failed to light several times and locked out; or (2) on the LCD convention, a main-unit over-temperature (overheat) shutdown.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Cumulative failed ignition attempts (often downstream of fuel, glow plug, or air issues)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "(Overheat variant) blocked air ducts or restricted intake/outlet", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "(Overheat variant) faulty temperature sensor or excessive fuel output", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Address the underlying cause first: check fuel level, prime the line, and verify the glow plug.", "If your unit treats E10 as overheat, clear all intake/outlet/duct restrictions and let it cool.", "Confirm supply voltage is healthy before retrying." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fix the root cause (fuel/air/glow plug or airflow), then power the unit fully off.", "Power-cycle to clear the lockout.", "Restart and watch for a clean, sustained light." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not keep forcing restarts — repeated failed lights pool raw diesel and the overheat variant is a fire risk. Vent exhaust fully outdoors and keep a CO alarm fitted; let the unit cool before re-priming.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if E10 returns after addressing fuel, ignition, and airflow, since it usually means a deeper fuel-delivery, sensor, or heat-exchanger problem.", "caveats": "Meaning differs by controller: E10 = repeated start-up failure / lockout (Vevor rotary style) vs E10 = main-unit over-temperature (LCD controllers). Confirm with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "HEATER ERROR CODES", "publisher": "ACLS Retail (Diesel Air Heating Specialist)", "url": "https://www.aclsretail.com/support-request/heater-error-codes", "manualRef": "E-10 — unit restarted several times without success" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E10 — Main Unit Over-temperature" } ], "confidence": 0.62, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e10/", "meaning": "Zwei dokumentierte Bedeutungen: (1) wiederholter Startfehler — die Heizung hat mehrfach erfolglos versucht zu zünden und sich gesperrt; oder (2) bei der LCD-Konvention eine Übertemperaturabschaltung (Überhitzung) des Hauptgeräts." } }, { "brand": "chinese-diesel-heater", "brand_name": "Chinese Diesel Heater", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E11", "code_slug": "e11", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e11/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Glow plug / heating-element performance fault: the plug is electrically connected but is not producing enough heat to ignite fuel — or, on the LCD set, a heating-element temperature-sensor error (poor contact or failed sensor).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Worn or carbon-fouled glow plug losing heating performance", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Poor/loose contact at the glow plug or sensor connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed heating-element temperature sensor", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power off and reseat the glow plug / sensor connector firmly.", "Inspect the glow plug for heavy carbon build-up if accessible after cooldown.", "Compare behaviour against E09/E11 history — these often appear together as the plug ages." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect firmly or replace a confirmed-faulty glow plug / sensor.", "Power-cycle the controller.", "Restart and confirm reliable ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "Generic 12V/24V 2kW air diesel heaters", "Generic 5kW/8kW air diesel heaters", "Vevor / Hcalory all-in-one and tank-mounted units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A weak glow plug causes hard, smoky starts and pooled fuel — service only when cool and disconnected, vent exhaust outdoors, and keep a CO alarm fitted.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if reseating and replacing the glow plug/sensor does not clear E11.", "caveats": "E11 relates to the glow plug/heating element on both convention sources, but the exact wording differs (performance fault vs sensor error). Confirm with your manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "HEATER ERROR CODES", "publisher": "ACLS Retail (Diesel Air Heating Specialist)", "url": "https://www.aclsretail.com/support-request/heater-error-codes", "manualRef": "E-11 — performance fault, plug connected but not generating enough heat" }, { "title": "Diesel Heater Error Codes Explained: Complete Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "LF Bros", "url": "https://www.lf-bros.com/diesel-heater-error-codes-explained-complete-troubleshooting-guide-causes-fixes/", "manualRef": "E11 — Heating Element Sensor Error" } ], "confidence": 0.6, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/chinese-diesel-heater/furnace/e11/", "meaning": "Leistungsfehler der Glühkerze / des Heizelements: Die Kerze ist elektrisch angeschlossen, erzeugt aber nicht genug Hitze, um den Kraftstoff zu zünden — oder, beim LCD-Bedienteil, ein Temperatursensorfehler des Heizelements (schlechter Kontakt oder defekter Sensor)." } }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The single-zone LCD thermostat has lost its communication link with the rooftop unit's control module (board). Because the thermostat can no longer talk to the unit, the system stops responding and shuts down. The display typically alternates between E1 and the last mode/temperature it was showing.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or damaged low-voltage communication/signal wire between the wall thermostat and the rooftop control box", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Connector at the thermostat or at the ceiling control box backed out or not fully seated", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low or dropping 12V DC supply to the control board (weak house battery / converter)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed thermostat or failed control module board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm 12V house power is healthy and the A/C breaker/fuse is on; recharge or shore-power if the battery is low.", "Power the system down, then back up (wait ~60 seconds) to see if the link re-establishes.", "With power OFF, gently reseat the thermostat onto its base and check that the low-voltage wires are firmly landed.", "Inspect visible thermostat wiring for pinched, chafed, or corroded conductors." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C circuit breaker (and unplug/secure power at the control box if accessible).", "Wait about 60 seconds so the boards fully de-energize.", "Restore power at the breaker and let the thermostat re-initialize.", "Verify the display returns to a normal mode/temperature instead of cycling E1." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD wall thermostat", "Coleman-Mach rooftop A/C with ceiling control box and remote LCD thermostat (e.g. Mach 8 / Mach 15 / True Air installations)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always switch off the A/C breaker and disconnect 120V power before opening the ceiling control box; rooftop units carry line-voltage (120V AC) that can cause severe shock. Leave any 120V or sealed-refrigerant work to a qualified RV HVAC technician.", "call_tech_when": "E1 persists after reseating wiring and a full power cycle, you find damaged wiring you cannot safely repair, or the control module/thermostat appears failed.", "caveats": "Wording compiled in original English from multiple RV-owner references quoting the Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD thermostat code list; we could not open the manufacturer PDF's code table directly (site/binary restrictions). Applies to LCD-display single-zone thermostats; simpler push-button and Bluetooth/knob Coleman-Mach thermostats do not show E-codes.", "sources": [ { "title": "E1 fault on thermostat (Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD code reference)", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://heartlandowners.org/threads/e1-fault-on-thermostat.65548/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach Single Zone LCD thermostat error-code list (E1)" }, { "title": "A/C error code E1", "publisher": "Forest River Forums", "url": "https://forestriverforums.com/forums/f113/a-c-error-code-e1-14668.html", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach / Airxcel thermostat E1 communication fault" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The indoor (room) temperature sensor reads as an open circuit or its value is outside the valid range. Because the thermostat can't trust the room temperature, it locks out heating and cooling, but the fan can still be run manually.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open or broken indoor/room temperature sensor or its wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Disconnected or corroded sensor connector at the thermostat/board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed indoor temperature sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed thermostat input circuit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "If a remote room sensor is used, check that its plug is fully seated and the wire is undamaged.", "Power-cycle the system to clear a transient reading.", "Inspect the sensor wiring for breaks, pinch points, or corrosion.", "Confirm the correct remote-sensor option is configured if your model uses one." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C breaker, wait ~60 seconds, then restore power.", "If the code clears and stays clear, the fault was transient.", "If it returns, the indoor sensor or its wiring likely needs service." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD wall thermostat", "Coleman-Mach rooftop A/C systems using a remote/indoor room temperature sensor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Switch off the A/C breaker and 120V power before accessing the ceiling assembly or control box; rooftop units carry line voltage. Refer sensor replacement or board-level work to a qualified RV HVAC technician.", "call_tech_when": "E2 stays after reseating/inspecting the room-sensor wiring and a power cycle, or the sensor needs replacement.", "caveats": "Original-English compilation of the Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD code list as mirrored by RV HVAC references; the manufacturer PDF code table could not be opened directly. Appears only on LCD-display single-zone thermostats, not on push-button or knob models.", "sources": [ { "title": "Coleman air conditioner error codes (E2 indoor temperature sensor open/out of range)", "publisher": "Twintech Heating and Cooling", "url": "https://twintechheating.ca/coleman-air-conditioner-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach Single Zone LCD thermostat code list (E2)" }, { "title": "Coleman air conditioner codes", "publisher": "KDM Gas", "url": "https://www.kdmgas.com/services/air-conditioning-service/coleman-air-conditioner-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach thermostat E2 indoor sensor fault" } ], "confidence": 0.7, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The indoor (room) temperature sensor is reading as shorted. As with E2, the thermostat can't trust the room temperature, so heating and cooling are locked out while the fan can still run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shorted indoor/room temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sensor wiring shorted (pinched/chafed conductors touching)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Moisture or corrosion bridging the sensor terminals", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed thermostat input circuit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the room-sensor wiring for pinched or chafed spots that could short the two conductors.", "Check the sensor connector for moisture, debris, or corrosion.", "Power-cycle the system to confirm the fault is persistent.", "Verify the sensor is the correct type for your thermostat." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C breaker, wait ~60 seconds, then restore power.", "If E3 clears and stays clear, it was transient.", "If it returns, the indoor sensor or wiring likely needs replacement." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD wall thermostat", "Coleman-Mach rooftop A/C systems using a remote/indoor room temperature sensor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "De-energize the A/C breaker and 120V supply before opening the ceiling assembly; line voltage is present in the rooftop unit. Leave sensor or board replacement to a qualified RV HVAC technician.", "call_tech_when": "E3 persists after checking wiring and a power cycle, or the room sensor must be replaced.", "caveats": "Original-English compilation from RV HVAC references mirroring the Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD code list; manufacturer PDF table not directly openable. Some generic (non-RV) Coleman mini-split charts assign E3 to a fan-speed fault, so this record is scoped specifically to the Coleman-Mach RV single-zone LCD thermostat. LCD-display models only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Coleman air conditioner error codes (E3 shorted indoor temperature sensor)", "publisher": "Twintech Heating and Cooling", "url": "https://twintechheating.ca/coleman-air-conditioner-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach Single Zone LCD thermostat code list (E3)" }, { "title": "Coleman air conditioner codes", "publisher": "KDM Gas", "url": "https://www.kdmgas.com/services/air-conditioning-service/coleman-air-conditioner-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach thermostat E3 shorted indoor sensor" } ], "confidence": 0.68, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The outdoor temperature sensor (fitted on heat-pump-equipped models) is open or reading out of range. The thermostat locks out heat-pump operation, but air conditioning, fan, and furnace functions can still run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open or disconnected outdoor temperature sensor (heat-pump models)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged or corroded outdoor-sensor wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed outdoor temperature sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Thermostat configured for heat-pump sensor that isn't present/working", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm whether your unit is a heat-pump model that actually has an outdoor sensor.", "Check the outdoor-sensor connector and wiring for looseness, corrosion, or damage.", "Power-cycle the system to clear a transient reading.", "Use A/C, fan, or furnace in the meantime if needed (these stay available)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C breaker, wait ~60 seconds, then restore power.", "If E4 clears, the fault was transient.", "If it returns, the outdoor sensor or wiring likely needs service." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD wall thermostat (heat-pump-equipped / select models)", "Coleman-Mach heat-pump rooftop A/C systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Switch off the A/C breaker and 120V power before accessing the rooftop unit or control box; line voltage is present. Refer sensor or board replacement to a qualified RV HVAC technician.", "call_tech_when": "E4 persists after checking the outdoor-sensor wiring and a power cycle, or the sensor must be replaced and you want heat-pump function restored.", "caveats": "Original-English compilation mirroring the Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD code list; manufacturer PDF table not directly openable. E4 applies only to heat-pump-equipped (select) models with an outdoor sensor; LCD-display thermostats only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Coleman air conditioner error codes (E4 outdoor temperature sensor open/out of range, heat-pump lockout)", "publisher": "Twintech Heating and Cooling", "url": "https://twintechheating.ca/coleman-air-conditioner-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach Single Zone LCD thermostat code list (E4)" }, { "title": "E1 fault on thermostat (thread including E4/E5 code reference)", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://heartlandowners.org/threads/e1-fault-on-thermostat.65548/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach thermostat E4 outdoor sensor fault" } ], "confidence": 0.7, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The evaporator freeze sensor is open or reading out of range. Because the thermostat can no longer protect the evaporator coil from icing, it locks out the air-conditioning (compressor) mode. Furnace, electric heat strip, heat pump, and fan modes can still run, and the display shows the last temperature set-point.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Freeze sensor not properly seated in the evaporator coil, or its lead disconnected/open", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged, pinched, or corroded freeze-sensor wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed (out-of-range) freeze sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong/incompatible freeze sensor for the thermostat", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the freeze-sensor probe is pushed firmly into the evaporator fins and its connector is seated.", "Inspect the freeze-sensor wiring for breaks, pinch points, or corrosion.", "Power-cycle the system to confirm the fault is persistent.", "In the meantime use furnace/fan if needed (these remain available)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C breaker, wait ~60 seconds, then restore power.", "If E5 clears and stays clear, it was transient.", "If it returns, reseat or replace the freeze sensor (qualified service)." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD wall thermostat", "Coleman-Mach rooftop A/C systems with an evaporator freeze sensor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "De-energize the A/C breaker and 120V supply before opening the ceiling assembly to reach the freeze sensor in the evaporator; rooftop units carry line voltage. Have sensor replacement done by a qualified RV HVAC technician if you're unsure.", "call_tech_when": "E5 persists after reseating/inspecting the freeze sensor and a power cycle, or the sensor needs replacement and A/C must be restored.", "caveats": "Original-English compilation mirroring the Coleman-Mach single-zone LCD code list and corroborating RV service Q&A; manufacturer PDF table not directly openable. LCD-display single-zone thermostats only. A genuinely frozen coil (restricted airflow) can also cause A/C lockout without a sensor fault — clean the return-air filter first.", "sources": [ { "title": "E5 code freeze sensor range (Coleman-Mach / Dometic freeze-sensor fault)", "publisher": "JustAnswer", "url": "https://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/eh39d-e5-code-freeze-sensor-range-seems-fine.html", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach thermostat E5 freeze-sensor open/out-of-range" }, { "title": "Coleman air conditioner error codes (E5 freeze sensor, A/C lockout)", "publisher": "Twintech Heating and Cooling", "url": "https://twintechheating.ca/coleman-air-conditioner-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Coleman-Mach Single Zone LCD thermostat code list (E5)" } ], "confidence": 0.74, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "Er", "code_slug": "er", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/er/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Coleman-Mach multi-zone LCD thermostat, 'Er' appears in the temperature area of the display when the measured ambient temperature is outside the thermostat's usable range, or when there is a problem with one of the remote temperature sensors. It signals the thermostat cannot show or act on a valid temperature for that situation/zone.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Remote (zone) temperature sensor disrupted, disconnected, or faulty", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded sensor wiring at the zone control box", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Actual room temperature outside the thermostat's display/operating limits", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed sensor or board input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Identify which zone shows 'Er' and check that zone's remote sensor connector and wiring.", "Confirm each zone board has proper 12V DC and the green LED behavior is normal.", "Power-cycle the system to clear a transient reading.", "Rule out genuine temperature extremes (e.g. very cold/hot coach interior)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn OFF the A/C breaker, wait ~60 seconds, then restore power.", "Let the thermostat re-detect connected zones on startup.", "If 'Er' returns for a specific zone, inspect/replace that zone's remote sensor (qualified service)." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach multi-zone LCD wall thermostat (e.g. 9330-33 / 9430 multi-zone control packages)", "Coleman-Mach zone-controlled rooftop A/C systems with remote room sensors" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Switch off the A/C breaker and 120V power before opening any ceiling control box; rooftop zone boards are near line-voltage wiring. The system will not operate below about 9.75V DC, so verify house battery health before assuming a fault. Leave board/sensor replacement to a qualified RV HVAC technician.", "call_tech_when": "'Er' stays for a zone after checking that zone's sensor wiring and a power cycle, or a remote sensor/board must be replaced.", "caveats": "Confirmed from the OEM-hosted Airxcel/RVP multi-zone operation guide PDF (text extracted directly). The multi-zone LCD thermostat uses 'Er' rather than the E1-E5 numbering used by the single-zone LCD thermostat; wording is an original-English summary, not copied manual prose.", "sources": [ { "title": "RVP (Airxcel) - Thermostat Model Multi Zone For 9330-33 Operation Guide", "publisher": "Forest River, Inc. (OEM-hosted Airxcel/RVP manual)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Heating%20-%20Air%20Conditioning/RVP%20(Airxcel)%20-%20Thermostat%20Model%20Multi%20Zone%20For%209330-33%20Operation%20Guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Multi-zone thermostat operation guide — 'Er' displayed for out-of-range ambient temperature or remote-sensor problem; 'system does not operate below 9.75 VDC'" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "Heat-pump strike condition", "code_slug": "heat-pump-strike", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/heat-pump-strike/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "In electric-heat (heat-pump) mode the thermostat flashes the 'Elec' segment while it brings the gas furnace on to assist the heat pump. This happens when the room falls about 5 F below the heat set point. Repeated assists accumulate 'strikes'; after three strikes the electric heat is locked out for 1 hour 45 minutes and gas heat becomes primary. It is a designed operating behavior, not a hard fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Heat pump cannot keep up in cold weather, so gas heat is assisting (normal at low outdoor temps)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Room dropped 5 F below the heat set point, triggering gas-heat assist", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electric heat reached three strikes and is temporarily disabled for 1 hr 45 min", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Recognize that in cold conditions gas-heat assist and the flashing Elec segment are normal.", "If you prefer pure gas heat, switch the thermostat to gas/furnace mode.", "Confirm the furnace is actually firing and producing heat when the segment flashes.", "Allow the 1 hr 45 min lockout to expire; electric heat returns as primary automatically." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset is required; the strike counter resets after 20 minutes of electric heat running without gas assist, and the lockout clears after 1 hr 45 min.", "To clear immediately you can change mode or perform a manual reboot (hold knob ~12 seconds)." ], "affected_models": [ "9420*381", "9420*382", "8330-series Digital Wall Thermostat (heat-pump configurations)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Gas heat involves propane combustion. Ensure the furnace exhausts properly and that the LP and CO detectors in the coach are working. Disconnect both 120 VAC and 12 VDC before servicing the thermostat.", "call_tech_when": "The Elec segment flashes but no heat is produced, the furnace fails to ignite, or the heat pump never carries the load in mild weather, indicating a heat-pump or furnace fault.", "caveats": "Applies to heat-pump-equipped configurations only. This is a status flash, not a numeric error code; thresholds and timers are from the official manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Installation, Operation & Application Guide for Digital Wall Thermostat 9420*381 & 9420*382", "publisher": "Airxcel, Inc. / Coleman-Mach (RV Products Division)", "url": "https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/1980R189.pdf", "manualRef": "Doc 1980R189, Elec Heating Mode section" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "HI", "code_slug": "hi", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/hi/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "The thermostat senses a temperature above the top of its measurable range. On the digital wall thermostat this shows when the sensed temperature is above about 99 F (37 C). Like LO, it is a display range limit rather than an equipment fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Actual ambient temperature at the sensor is above 99 F / 37 C (very hot coach, sun-baked sensor)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sensor mounted in direct sun, near a heat source, or high near the ceiling where heat collects", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing or shorted temperature sensor reading artificially high", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the cabin really is extremely hot; if so HI is expected behavior, not a fault.", "Start cooling and watch whether the display returns to a number once the room drops below 99 F.", "Check the sensor location is not in direct sunlight, against a hot exterior wall, or right at the ceiling.", "Verify the F/C unit setting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the cabin cool below 99 F (37 C); the HI indication clears automatically.", "If HI persists in a normal-temperature room, manual reboot: hold the knob ~12 seconds until it counts down and powers off, then release to reboot." ], "affected_models": [ "9420*381", "9420*382", "8330-series Digital Wall Thermostat", "TSR2 (8330-3862)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Extreme interior heat can damage electronics and is a health risk for people and pets. Improve ventilation before troubleshooting the display. Disconnect both 120 VAC and 12 VDC power before opening the thermostat.", "call_tech_when": "HI keeps showing in a room that is clearly not that hot, indicating a faulty sensor or thermostat that should be replaced.", "caveats": "HI is an out-of-range display, not a numeric error code. The 99 F / 37 C threshold is from the official 9420/8330 manual; other thermostat generations may vary.", "sources": [ { "title": "Installation, Operation & Application Guide for Digital Wall Thermostat 9420*381 & 9420*382", "publisher": "Airxcel, Inc. / Coleman-Mach (RV Products Division)", "url": "https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/1980R189.pdf", "manualRef": "Doc 1980R189, Set Temperature Range section" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "LO", "code_slug": "lo", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/lo/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "The thermostat is showing the room temperature it senses is below the bottom of its measurable range. On the digital wall thermostat this appears when the sensed temperature drops below about 33 F (0 C). It is a display limit, not a fault in the heating or cooling equipment.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Actual ambient temperature at the sensor is below 33 F / 0 C (cold coach, sensor near a cold wall or floor)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Remote/return-air sensor placed in an unusually cold location giving a reading below range", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing or shorted temperature sensor reading artificially low", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm whether the inside of the RV really is very cold (below freezing); if so, LO is expected and not a malfunction.", "Run the furnace/heat to warm the cabin and watch whether the display returns to a numeric reading once it climbs above 33 F.", "Check that the thermostat (or its remote sensor) is not mounted on an exterior wall, near a window, or in a draft that reads colder than the living space.", "Verify the temperature-unit setting (F vs C) so the number is interpreted correctly." ], "reset_steps": [ "Allow the cabin to warm above 33 F (0 C); the display clears LO on its own.", "If LO persists in a clearly warm room, perform a manual reboot: press and hold the knob for about 12 seconds until the display counts down and turns off, then release to reboot." ], "affected_models": [ "9420*381", "9420*382", "8330-series Digital Wall Thermostat", "TSR2 (8330-3862)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "If the coach is genuinely at or below freezing, protect plumbing and tanks from freeze damage before worrying about the display. Always disconnect both 120 VAC shore/generator power and the 12 VDC supply before opening the thermostat or touching wiring.", "call_tech_when": "LO continues to show in a room you know is well above freezing, which points to a defective sensor or thermostat that should be replaced.", "caveats": "LO is a temperature out-of-range display indication, not an alphanumeric fault code. The 33 F / 0 C threshold is taken from the official manual for the 9420/8330 digital wall thermostat; other Coleman-Mach thermostat generations may differ slightly.", "sources": [ { "title": "Installation, Operation & Application Guide for Digital Wall Thermostat 9420*381 & 9420*382", "publisher": "Airxcel, Inc. / Coleman-Mach (RV Products Division)", "url": "https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/1980R189.pdf", "manualRef": "Doc 1980R189, Set Temperature Range section" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "PTC fuse open (no power)", "code_slug": "ptc-fuse-open", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/ptc-fuse-open/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The digital wall thermostat contains a self-resetting PTC (resettable) fuse on its 12 VDC control circuit. If the control wiring is mis-wired or shorted, the fuse opens and cuts power to the thermostat so it appears dead or unresponsive. Coleman-Mach states that if the fuse keeps opening, an underlying wiring fault must be found and corrected.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Short in the thermostat control wiring or at a connector", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Mis-wired control circuit (R+, B-, Sig 1, Sig 2 wires crossed or reversed)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Pinched or chafed wire behind the wall plate shorting to chassis", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control circuit drawing more than the 2 amp design limit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the thermostat is intended for a 12 VDC control circuit not exceeding 2 amps.", "With all power off, remove the thermostat from its plate and inspect the wiring for pinched, bare, or shorted conductors.", "Verify the control wires land on the correct terminals: red to +12 VDC (R+), blue to -12 VDC (B-), and the two signal wires to Sig 1 and Sig 2.", "Check the RV fuse or breaker feeding the thermostat/AC control circuit.", "After correcting any wiring issue, let the PTC fuse cool; it resets itself once the fault is removed." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove power, correct the wiring fault, then restore power; the PTC fuse self-resets when the short or overload is gone.", "If the unit must be re-initialized after wiring changes, perform the manual reboot (hold knob ~12 seconds until countdown and power-off, then release)." ], "affected_models": [ "9420*381", "9420*382", "8330-series Digital Wall Thermostat", "TSR2 (8330-3862)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A repeatedly opening fuse means a real short exists. Do not bypass or defeat the PTC fuse. Disconnect both 120 VAC and 12 VDC before probing wiring; a 12 VDC short can still arc, overheat wires, and start a fire.", "call_tech_when": "The fuse keeps opening after you have checked obvious wiring, or you cannot safely locate the short. The manual explicitly states the fault must be located and corrected by qualified service.", "caveats": "This is described as a protective fuse condition rather than a coded fault; the thermostat shows no special character, it simply loses power. Wire-color terminal mapping is from Coleman-Mach installation documentation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Installation, Operation & Application Guide for Digital Wall Thermostat 9420*381 & 9420*382", "publisher": "Airxcel, Inc. / Coleman-Mach (RV Products Division)", "url": "https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/1980R189.pdf", "manualRef": "Doc 1980R189, Features (self-resetting PTC fuse) and Wiring/Connectors sections" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "Short-cycle / compressor delay", "code_slug": "short-cycle-delay", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/short-cycle-delay/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On the digital wall thermostat, the HVAC state segment blinks to show a built-in short-cycle protection delay is active. After a cooling (compressor) or heat-pump electric-heat demand is satisfied, a 3-minute delay runs before that output can restart; if there is a new demand during the delay, the segment blinks instead of starting immediately. This is normal protective behavior, not a malfunction.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Compressor or heat-pump output was recently satisfied and is in its mandatory 3-minute restart delay", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Thermostat was just powered up or rebooted and is observing the start delay", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Rapid set-point changes repeatedly triggering the protection timer", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Wait about 3 minutes; the output should start and the blinking should stop on its own.", "Avoid switching modes or cycling the breaker repeatedly, which restarts the delay.", "Confirm cooling actually begins once the delay expires." ], "reset_steps": [ "No action needed; the thermostat resumes normal operation automatically after the 3-minute delay expires." ], "affected_models": [ "9420*381", "9420*382", "8330-series Digital Wall Thermostat", "TSR2 (8330-3862)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not try to defeat the start delay by cycling power; short-cycling a compressor can damage it. Disconnect both 120 VAC and 12 VDC power before any service.", "call_tech_when": "The compressor never starts even after the 3-minute delay clears, which points to a compressor, capacitor, or control-board problem rather than the normal delay.", "caveats": "This is a status blink, not an alphanumeric error code. The 3-minute value and behavior are from the official manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Installation, Operation & Application Guide for Digital Wall Thermostat 9420*381 & 9420*382", "publisher": "Airxcel, Inc. / Coleman-Mach (RV Products Division)", "url": "https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/1980R189.pdf", "manualRef": "Doc 1980R189, Compressor/Elec Heat Short Cycle Protection (DOB) section" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "coleman-mach", "brand_name": "Coleman-Mach", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "Wireless comms error", "code_slug": "comms-error", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/coleman-mach/air-conditioner/comms-error/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On older Coleman-Mach wireless thermostat systems, the green system LED on the ceiling/main control box flashing twice indicates a communications error: the main control box is not communicating with the wireless thermostat/receiver, so it cannot control the AC or gas furnace.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Supply voltage dropped below the required level and the control board locked out (low 12 VDC or 120 VAC)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Lost link between the main box and the wireless receiver/thermostat", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "12 V radio-frequency interference inside the RV (antenna boosters, fluorescent ballasts, inverter/charger) disrupting the link", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed receiver or main board (parts long discontinued)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check battery state of charge and shore/generator power; confirm both 12 VDC and 120 VAC are healthy and not sagging.", "Confirm the AC breaker and the 12 V fuse for the AC/thermostat circuit are good.", "Reduce potential RF interference sources near the unit if the error is intermittent.", "Note that this wireless remote/receiver system was discontinued and parts are scarce; a manual wall thermostat conversion may be the practical fix." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fully reset the board by removing BOTH 120 VAC and 12 VDC power to the unit at the same time, wait, then restore power. Turning off only one source is often not enough.", "Re-establish power and verify the green LED returns to normal (steady) operation." ], "affected_models": [ "Coleman-Mach wireless thermostat / IR receiver systems (legacy)", "ceiling-mounted main control box units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This work spans 120 VAC line voltage. Disconnect shore power and turn off the generator before opening the ceiling unit. Treat 120 VAC as lethal. Also disconnect the 12 VDC supply so the board is fully de-energized.", "call_tech_when": "The communications error returns after a full dual-power reset, or the wireless receiver/main board is suspected failed, since these legacy parts are discontinued and may require conversion to a wired thermostat.", "caveats": "Source is a reputable RV owner community thread, not a Coleman-Mach manual; the exact two-flash LED meaning and the dual-power reset are owner-reported. Applies to legacy wireless systems, not the current wired digital wall thermostat. Treat as guidance and confirm against the specific unit's documentation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Coleman Mach AC communications error help", "publisher": "Good Sam Community (RV owner forum)", "url": "https://community.goodsam.com/discussions/technicalissues/coleman-mach-ac-communications-error-help/2818691", "manualRef": "Member discussion describing green LED flashing twice = main box not communicating with receiver" } ], "confidence": 0.6, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E0 / EA / EE", "code_slug": "e0-ea-ee", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e0-ea-ee/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Electronics and drive faults on the FreshJet inverter board. E0 = communication failure between the control parts. E9 = compressor drive or IPM (inverter power module) fault. EA = current-sensor fault. EE = outdoor-board EEPROM (memory) fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal board/communication fault (E0, EE) on the outdoor power module", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Inverter/IPM drive fault (E9), sometimes triggered by low or unstable campsite voltage", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Current-sensing circuit fault (EA)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "For E9, check with campsite management whether the supply voltage is adequate, then restart", "Power the unit fully off for a few minutes and attempt one restart", "Confirm no loose obvious connection at the indoor control if accessible and safe" ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect shore power / AC breaker for about 2 minutes", "Restore a verified good supply and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "These are internal power-electronics faults at mains voltage. Do not probe the live board. Disconnect power before any access and leave board-level diagnosis to a technician.", "call_tech_when": "E0, EA and EE essentially always require an authorized Dometic service agent. For E9, call if it persists after confirming good supply voltage and a clean restart.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter codes. Note the FJX E-codes are NOT the same as the CCC2 thermostat E-codes used on Penguin II / Blizzard NXT zone systems (e.g. FJX E2 = evaporator coil sensor, whereas CCC2 E2 = indoor temperature sensor). Match the code set to the actual display/thermostat.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display codes E0, E9, EA, EE" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e0-ea-ee/", "meaning": "Elektronik- und Antriebsfehler auf der FreshJet-Inverter-Steuerplatine. E0 = Kommunikationsfehler zwischen den Steuerungskomponenten. E9 = Fehler des Verdichterantriebs oder des IPM (Inverter-Leistungsmoduls). EA = Stromsensor-Fehler. EE = EEPROM-Fehler (Speicherfehler) der Außenplatine." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The thermostat has lost its communication link with the air conditioner/heat pump control (power module) board. On the CCC2, if communication is lost with one zone the display shows E1 plus that zone number (and any other affected zones blink); if all module boards are lost, the whole system shuts down. On the Single Zone LCD thermostat, the display alternates between E1 and the previous mode and the system shuts down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, unseated, or damaged RJ11/communication cable between the thermostat and the control box/power module board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Corroded or dirty connector pins on the communication cable", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "No power reaching the AC/heat-pump control box (tripped breaker, blown fuse, loose 12V/120V supply)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed thermostat or failed power module / control board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Cycle the system off and remove power: turn off the AC breaker and disconnect shore power, then wait a minute and restore power to force the thermostat and control board to re-establish communication.", "Inspect the thin communication (RJ11-style) cable where it plugs into the thermostat and into the rooftop/control box; reseat both ends firmly and check the small phone-style connectors for bent or corroded pins.", "Confirm the air conditioner control box actually has power (check the AC breaker and any inline fuse).", "Look for pinched, kinked, or rodent-damaged cable runs in the ceiling or wall chase." ], "reset_steps": [ "Put the thermostat in OFF mode.", "Remove all power to the system (turn off the AC breaker / disconnect shore power, and the 12V supply if applicable) for at least a minute.", "Restore power; on the CCC2 a full system reset may be needed so the thermostat re-detects the zones and installed equipment (see the CCC2 user guide System Reset Procedure)." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 (CCC2) thermostat systems", "Dometic Single Zone LCD thermostat systems", "Rooftop Dometic / Duo-Therm RV air conditioners and heat pumps controlled by these thermostats" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Before working on or near the rooftop unit or control box, turn off the AC circuit breaker and disconnect shore power and the generator; 120V wiring is present and can cause electric shock. Do not attempt repairs on the roof in wet or windy conditions.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating the cable and power-cycling does not clear E1, or if you find damaged wiring, corroded boards, or suspect a failed control board or thermostat, have a qualified RV technician test and replace the affected component.", "caveats": "Exact behavior differs slightly between the CCC2 (multi-zone, shows zone number) and the Single Zone LCD thermostat (cycles E1 with mode). Both confirmed from official Dometic user guides.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic Corporation", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/thermostat-control-box-ccc2_64755.pdf", "manualRef": "Section N, LCD Error Code (Error Code: E1)" }, { "title": "Single Zone LCD Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic (via Prime Time RV component manuals)", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Thermostat-SingleZoneDigital-Dometic-QuickStartUpFlyer.pdf", "manualRef": "LCD Error Code (Error Code: E1)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e1/", "meaning": "Das Thermostat hat die Kommunikationsverbindung zur Steuerplatine (Leistungsmodul) der Klimaanlage/Wärmepumpe verloren. Beim CCC2 zeigt das Display E1 plus die jeweilige Zonennummer an, wenn die Kommunikation mit einer Zone verloren geht (weitere betroffene Zonen blinken); gehen alle Modulplatinen verloren, schaltet sich das gesamte System ab. Beim Einzelzonen-LCD-Thermostat wechselt die Anzeige zwischen E1 und dem vorherigen Modus, und das System schaltet sich ab." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The indoor (return-air) temperature sensor is reading open-circuit or out of range. The system locks out all heating and cooling, but manual fan operation can still run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected, broken, or out-of-range indoor temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded sensor wiring/connector at the control board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board sensor input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power-cycle the system at the breaker to confirm the fault is persistent and not a one-time glitch.", "If the sensor connector is easily accessible at the thermostat or control box, check that it is fully seated and free of corrosion (do not cut or splice wiring yourself).", "Note whether fan-only mode still works, which is consistent with an indoor-sensor fault rather than a full communication failure." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the thermostat OFF.", "Remove power at the AC breaker for a minute, then restore power to clear a transient fault.", "If E2 returns immediately, the indoor sensor or its wiring needs inspection/replacement." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 (CCC2) thermostat systems", "Dometic Single Zone LCD thermostat systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Turn off the AC breaker and disconnect shore power before opening the rooftop unit or control box; 120V components are present. Avoid rooftop work in poor weather.", "call_tech_when": "If E2 persists after a power cycle, have a technician test or replace the indoor temperature sensor and check the control board input.", "caveats": "E2 = open/out-of-range indoor temperature sensor on both CCC2 and Single Zone LCD thermostats. Do not confuse with E3 (shorted indoor sensor).", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic Corporation", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/thermostat-control-box-ccc2_64755.pdf", "manualRef": "Section N, LCD Error Code (Error Code: E2)" }, { "title": "Single Zone LCD Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic (via Prime Time RV component manuals)", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Thermostat-SingleZoneDigital-Dometic-QuickStartUpFlyer.pdf", "manualRef": "LCD Error Code (Error Code: E2)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e2/", "meaning": "Der Innenraum-Temperatursensor (Rückluft) zeigt eine Unterbrechung (offener Stromkreis) oder einen Wert außerhalb des zulässigen Bereichs an. Das System sperrt jeglichen Heiz- und Kühlbetrieb, der manuelle Lüfterbetrieb kann jedoch weiterlaufen." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The indoor (return-air) temperature sensor is reading as shorted. As with E2, all heating and cooling are locked out, but manual fan operation can still run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shorted indoor temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sensor wiring shorted or pinched against metal", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board sensor input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power-cycle the system at the breaker to rule out a transient fault.", "Confirm fan-only mode still operates, which is consistent with an indoor-sensor fault.", "Visually check for obviously pinched or damaged sensor wiring if accessible; do not attempt internal repairs." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the thermostat OFF.", "Remove power at the AC breaker for about a minute, then restore power.", "If E3 returns, the indoor sensor or its wiring requires service." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 (CCC2) thermostat systems", "Dometic Single Zone LCD thermostat systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "De-energize the unit (AC breaker off, shore power and generator disconnected) before inspecting the rooftop unit or control box because of exposed 120V wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If E3 persists, have a qualified technician replace the indoor temperature sensor and verify the control board.", "caveats": "E3 = shorted indoor temperature sensor (vs. E2 = open/out-of-range). Confirmed on both CCC2 and Single Zone LCD guides.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic Corporation", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/thermostat-control-box-ccc2_64755.pdf", "manualRef": "Section N, LCD Error Code (Error Code: E3)" }, { "title": "Single Zone LCD Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic (via Prime Time RV component manuals)", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Thermostat-SingleZoneDigital-Dometic-QuickStartUpFlyer.pdf", "manualRef": "LCD Error Code (Error Code: E3)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e3/", "meaning": "Der Innenraum-Temperatursensor (Rückluft) wird als kurzgeschlossen erkannt. Wie bei E2 sind jeglicher Heiz- und Kühlbetrieb gesperrt, der manuelle Lüfterbetrieb kann jedoch weiterlaufen." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The outdoor temperature sensor (fitted on select heat-pump models) is reading open-circuit or out of range. Heat-pump operation is locked out, but the air conditioner (cooling), furnace, heat strip, and fan can still operate.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected, broken, or out-of-range outdoor temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded outdoor-sensor wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board sensor input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power-cycle the system at the breaker to check whether E4 is persistent.", "Confirm that cooling, furnace, and fan still work and only heat-pump mode is disabled, which matches an outdoor-sensor fault.", "If accessible, verify the outdoor sensor connector is seated; do not cut or splice wiring." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the thermostat OFF.", "Remove power at the AC breaker for about a minute, then restore.", "If E4 returns, the outdoor sensor or its wiring needs inspection." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 (CCC2) heat-pump-equipped systems", "Dometic Single Zone LCD thermostat heat-pump systems (select models with outdoor sensor)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Shut off the AC breaker and disconnect shore power and generator before any rooftop or control-box inspection due to live 120V wiring; avoid rooftop work in adverse weather.", "call_tech_when": "If E4 persists and you need heat-pump heating restored, have a technician test/replace the outdoor temperature sensor.", "caveats": "E4 applies only to systems fitted with an outdoor temperature sensor (heat-pump 'select models'). On non-heat-pump units this code is not expected.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic Corporation", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/thermostat-control-box-ccc2_64755.pdf", "manualRef": "Section N, LCD Error Code (Error Code: E4)" }, { "title": "Single Zone LCD Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic (via Prime Time RV component manuals)", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Thermostat-SingleZoneDigital-Dometic-QuickStartUpFlyer.pdf", "manualRef": "LCD Error Code (Error Code: E4)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e4/", "meaning": "Der Außentemperatursensor (bei ausgewählten Wärmepumpenmodellen verbaut) zeigt eine Unterbrechung (offener Stromkreis) oder einen Wert außerhalb des Bereichs an. Der Wärmepumpenbetrieb ist gesperrt, die Klimaanlage (Kühlen), die Heizung, der Heizstab und der Lüfter können jedoch weiterhin arbeiten." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The freeze sensor is reading open-circuit or out of range (documented on the Single Zone LCD thermostat). Air conditioner (cooling) mode is locked out, while furnace, heat strip, heat pump, and fan can still run, with the display showing the last temperature set-point.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected, broken, or out-of-range freeze (coil) sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded freeze-sensor wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board sensor input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power-cycle the system at the breaker to confirm the fault is persistent.", "Confirm that furnace/heat and fan still operate while cooling is locked out, which matches a freeze-sensor fault.", "If accessible, check the freeze-sensor connector seating; do not perform internal repairs yourself." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the thermostat OFF.", "Remove power at the AC breaker for about a minute, then restore power.", "If E5 returns, the freeze sensor or its wiring requires service." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Single Zone LCD thermostat systems (freeze sensor)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "De-energize the unit (AC breaker off, shore power and generator disconnected) before inspecting the rooftop unit or control box because of exposed 120V wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If E5 persists and cooling stays locked out, have a technician test/replace the freeze sensor and verify the control board.", "caveats": "E5 (freeze sensor) is documented in the Single Zone LCD thermostat guide; it was not listed in the CCC2 guide reviewed, so on CCC2 systems the freeze-sensor handling may differ. Verified from one official Dometic guide only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Single Zone LCD Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic (via Prime Time RV component manuals)", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Thermostat-SingleZoneDigital-Dometic-QuickStartUpFlyer.pdf", "manualRef": "LCD Error Code (Error Code: E5)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e5/", "meaning": "Der Vereisungssensor zeigt eine Unterbrechung (offener Stromkreis) oder einen Wert außerhalb des Bereichs an (dokumentiert beim Einzelzonen-LCD-Thermostat). Der Klimaanlagenbetrieb (Kühlen) ist gesperrt, während Heizung, Heizstab, Wärmepumpe und Lüfter weiterlaufen können; das Display zeigt den zuletzt eingestellten Temperatur-Sollwert an." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E6", "code_slug": "e6", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e6/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The CCC2 thermostat reads an open circuit on the optional humidity sensor (only fitted on select models). Cooling and dehumidify modes are disabled for the affected zone, but heat pump, furnace, electric heat strip, and fan keep running.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open or disconnected humidity sensor wiring on a model equipped with that sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed humidity sensor element", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose sensor connector at the power module board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm your unit actually has the optional humidity sensor — many CCC2 installs do not, and a stray E6 can indicate a wiring issue rather than a real sensor.", "Visually inspect the humidity sensor connector at the air conditioner power module for looseness or corrosion (power off first).", "Note whether cooling still works in other zones, which helps localize the fault to one unit." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the system off at the thermostat.", "Remove 120 VAC shore/generator power and 12V DC power for at least 5 minutes to clear the controller.", "Restore power and observe whether E6 returns." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Brisk II", "Dometic Penguin II", "Select CCC2-equipped models with optional humidity sensor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect 120 VAC shore/generator power and 12V DC before touching any rooftop unit or control wiring; rooftop AC units carry line-voltage capacitors that can hold a charge.", "call_tech_when": "Call an RV HVAC technician if the humidity sensor and its wiring check out but E6 persists, since accessing the rooftop power module and sensor harness involves line voltage.", "caveats": "Only applies to units actually equipped with the optional humidity sensor; on units without it E6 should not normally appear.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic LLC (hosted by My RV Works)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/CCC2-User_s-Guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Form No. 3314150.016, LCD Error Code section, E6" }, { "title": "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 Users Guide", "publisher": "thermostat.guide", "url": "https://thermostat.guide/dometic/dometic-comfort-control-center-2-users-guide/", "manualRef": "Error code table, E6" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e6/", "meaning": "Das CCC2-Thermostat erkennt eine Unterbrechung (offener Stromkreis) am optionalen Feuchtigkeitssensor (nur bei ausgewählten Modellen verbaut). Der Kühl- und Entfeuchtungsbetrieb sind für die betroffene Zone deaktiviert, Wärmepumpe, Heizung, elektrischer Heizstab und Lüfter laufen jedoch weiter." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E7", "code_slug": "e7", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e7/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The CCC2 has lost 120 VAC line power to all of the air conditioner power module boards, so the entire system shuts down. It signals an incoming-power problem, not a fault inside the thermostat itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Tripped pedestal/shore-power breaker or general loss of shore power", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown 120 VAC fuse or breaker feeding the AC circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty automatic transfer switch (works on generator but not shore power, or vice versa)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Damaged power cord plug, burnt blades, or loose/corroded connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the shore-power pedestal breaker: switch it fully off, then back on.", "Verify the RV's own 120V breakers for the air conditioner have not tripped, and reset any that have.", "If you have two units, note whether one or both show E7 to localize the power loss.", "Inspect the power cord plug and pedestal outlet for burning, corrosion, or bent/broken prongs (with power off).", "If the AC runs on generator power but not on shore power, suspect the transfer switch." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore 120 VAC power to the unit.", "Disconnect all power for at least 5 minutes, or press and hold MODE and ZONE together, release, then press ON/OFF to reset the thermostat.", "Power the system back up and confirm E7 has cleared." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Brisk II", "Dometic Penguin II", "CCC2-controlled rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "120 VAC line voltage is involved. Have a qualified person inspect the power cord, pedestal, and transfer switch; do not probe energized line-voltage wiring yourself.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician (or electrician for the pedestal) if breakers and fuses are fine but 120V is still not reaching the unit, or if you suspect a failed transfer switch.", "caveats": "E7 points to incoming 120V power loss; if power is confirmed present at the unit, the fault may lie in wiring between the breaker and the power module.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic LLC (hosted by My RV Works)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/CCC2-User_s-Guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Form No. 3314150.016, LCD Error Code section, E7" }, { "title": "Getting An E7 Code on Your Dometic Thermostat? What It Means & How to Fix It!", "publisher": "The RV Geeks", "url": "https://www.thervgeeks.com/dometic-thermostat-e7-code/", "manualRef": "E7 meaning and troubleshooting steps" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e7/", "meaning": "Der CCC2 hat den 120-V-AC-Netzstrom zu allen Leistungsmodul-Platinen der Klimaanlage verloren, sodass sich das gesamte System abschaltet. Dies signalisiert ein Problem mit der Eingangsstromversorgung, keinen Fehler im Thermostat selbst." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E8", "code_slug": "e8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Invalid zone configuration: the heat pump and electric heat strip DIP switches are both set ON in the same zone, which is not a valid combination. The CCC2 locks out heat pump, heat strip, air conditioning, and dehumidify in that zone.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Heat pump and heat strip DIP switches both switched ON on the power module for one zone", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Incorrect DIP-switch settings after a board replacement or service", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "This is a configuration error rather than a hardware failure — note that it usually follows a recent install, board swap, or accessory change.", "Identify which zone is blinking so the correct power module's DIP switches can be corrected." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correcting the DIP-switch configuration requires accessing the rooftop/zone power module; this is normally a service step.", "After the DIP switches are set to a valid combination, cycle power off and on to clear the code." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Brisk II", "Dometic Penguin II", "CCC2 zones equipped with both heat pump and heat strip options" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Setting DIP switches means opening a line-voltage power module on the rooftop unit. Disconnect 120 VAC and 12V DC power first, and treat this as a job for someone comfortable with rooftop AC wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Call an RV technician to verify and correct the DIP-switch configuration, since the adjustment is inside the line-voltage power module.", "caveats": "E8 is a setup/configuration fault; it typically appears right after installation or service rather than during normal use.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic LLC (hosted by My RV Works)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/CCC2-User_s-Guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Form No. 3314150.016, LCD Error Code section, E8" }, { "title": "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 Users Guide", "publisher": "thermostat.guide", "url": "https://thermostat.guide/dometic/dometic-comfort-control-center-2-users-guide/", "manualRef": "Error code table, E8" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e8/", "meaning": "Ungültige Zonenkonfiguration: Die DIP-Schalter für Wärmepumpe und elektrischen Heizstab sind in derselben Zone beide auf ON gestellt, was keine gültige Kombination ist. Der CCC2 sperrt in dieser Zone Wärmepumpe, Heizstab, Klimatisierung und Entfeuchtung." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E9", "code_slug": "e9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/e9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Invalid zone configuration: the dehumidifier DIP switch and either the heat pump or heat strip DIP switch are both set ON in the same zone, an unsupported combination. The CCC2 locks out heat pump, heat strip, air conditioning, and dehumidify in that zone.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Dehumidifier DIP switch ON together with the heat pump or heat strip DIP switch in one zone", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Incorrect DIP-switch settings after a board replacement or reconfiguration", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Treat E9 as a configuration error, not a component failure; it usually follows recent install or service work.", "Identify the blinking zone so the correct power module can be checked." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correcting the conflicting DIP-switch settings requires access to the affected zone's power module, normally a service step.", "After a valid DIP-switch combination is set, cycle power off and on to clear the code." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Brisk II", "Dometic Penguin II", "CCC2 zones with dehumidifier plus heat pump or heat strip options" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Adjusting DIP switches means opening a line-voltage power module on the rooftop unit. Disconnect 120 VAC and 12V DC power first and leave this to someone experienced with rooftop AC wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Call an RV technician to correct the DIP-switch configuration, since the change is made inside the line-voltage power module.", "caveats": "E9 is a setup/configuration fault that normally appears after installation or service, not during routine operation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Comfort Control Center 2 Thermostat User's Guide", "publisher": "Dometic LLC (hosted by My RV Works)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/CCC2-User_s-Guide.pdf", "manualRef": "Form No. 3314150.016, LCD Error Code section, E9" }, { "title": "Dometic Comfort Control Center 2 Users Guide", "publisher": "thermostat.guide", "url": "https://thermostat.guide/dometic/dometic-comfort-control-center-2-users-guide/", "manualRef": "Error code table, E9" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/e9/", "meaning": "Ungültige Zonenkonfiguration: Der DIP-Schalter für den Entfeuchter und entweder der DIP-Schalter für die Wärmepumpe oder den Heizstab sind in derselben Zone beide auf ON gestellt, eine nicht unterstützte Kombination. Der CCC2 sperrt in dieser Zone Wärmepumpe, Heizstab, Klimatisierung und Entfeuchtung." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "EL", "code_slug": "el", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/el/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "LIN-BUS / CI-BUS communication failure. The air conditioner has lost the data-bus link it uses to talk to the vehicle control/display system.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, damaged or disconnected bus/control cable between the AC and the display/vehicle network", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Display or control-panel fault on the bus", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Outdoor control-board communication fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the control panel / display cabling is seated, where accessible without opening live wiring", "Power the system fully off and on to re-establish the bus link", "Note whether other bus-connected functions also misbehave (points to the bus, not the AC)" ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect power for about 2 minutes", "Restore power and let the system re-initialize the bus" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units with bus-connected control" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not pull or splice bus wiring with power applied. Disconnect shore power before inspecting any connector.", "call_tech_when": "If EL stays after a power cycle and obvious connectors are seated, contact an authorized Dometic service agent — the bus wiring, display, or control board needs diagnosis.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter models with LIN/CI-BUS control only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display code EL" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/el/", "meaning": "LIN-BUS-/CI-BUS-Kommunikationsfehler. Die Klimaanlage hat die Datenbus-Verbindung verloren, über die sie mit dem Steuerungs-/Anzeigesystem des Fahrzeugs kommuniziert." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "P0", "code_slug": "p0", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/p0/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The inverter control module (IPM) has detected an over-temperature or over-current condition and shut the compressor down to protect itself. This is a hardware protection trip on the power electronics.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Overheated IPM/inverter board from poor airflow over the condenser or a clogged condenser coil", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Excessive compressor current draw due to a failing compressor or refrigerant issue", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty inverter/control module on the outdoor power board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn the unit off at the thermostat and let it cool for 15-20 minutes, then restart and see if the code clears", "From the ground, check that the rooftop shroud vents are not blocked by leaves, debris or a cover", "Confirm the rig is on a stable, sufficient power supply and not running on a long undersized extension cord" ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the air conditioner off at the thermostat", "Disconnect shore power / turn off the AC breaker for about 2 minutes", "Restore power and restart the unit" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Rooftop work involves 120/230V AC mains wiring and a sealed refrigerant circuit. Always disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before removing the shroud. Do not open the refrigerant circuit yourself.", "call_tech_when": "If the P0 code returns after a clean restart with good airflow and adequate voltage, stop and contact an authorized Dometic service agent — this indicates an internal power-module or compressor fault.", "caveats": "Applies to FreshJet inverter (FJX) models with a single-digit P/E display; does not apply to older fixed-speed FreshJet units or to CCC2-controlled Penguin II / Blizzard NXT zone systems, which use a different E1-E9 code set.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display code P0" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/p0/", "meaning": "Das Inverter-Steuermodul (IPM) hat eine Übertemperatur- oder Überstrombedingung erkannt und den Verdichter zum Selbstschutz abgeschaltet. Dies ist eine Hardware-Schutzabschaltung der Leistungselektronik." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "P1", "code_slug": "p1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/p1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Under-voltage protection. The unit has detected the incoming supply voltage is too low to safely run the inverter compressor and has stopped to avoid damage.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or sagging campsite/shore power voltage (below roughly 200V on 230V systems)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Long or undersized extension cord / cord reel not fully unwound causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Overloaded campsite pedestal shared with other high-draw appliances", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the supply voltage at the pedestal or inlet and confirm it is within the unit's rated range", "Fully unwind any cord reel and use the shortest, heaviest-gauge cord available", "Reduce other electrical loads in the RV and retry" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the voltage/supply problem first", "Switch the AC off at the thermostat, then back on once a stable supply is confirmed" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Use a proper meter when checking voltage at a live pedestal, or have a qualified person do it. Never bypass breakers or back-feed power to work around a low-voltage trip.", "call_tech_when": "If P1 persists even with confirmed good, stable supply voltage at the inlet, contact an authorized Dometic service agent — the voltage-sensing circuit may be at fault.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter models only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display code P1" } ], "confidence": 0.96, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/p1/", "meaning": "Unterspannungsschutz. Das Gerät hat erkannt, dass die eingehende Versorgungsspannung zu niedrig ist, um den Inverter-Verdichter sicher zu betreiben, und hat gestoppt, um Schäden zu vermeiden." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "P2 / P3", "code_slug": "p2-p3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/p2-p3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "P2 is AC over-current protection (the unit is drawing more current than allowed). P3 is over-voltage protection (incoming supply voltage too high). Both trip the unit off to protect the electronics.", "causes": [ { "cause": "P3: campsite/shore supply voltage above the unit's allowed range", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "P2: abnormal current draw from a compressor or wiring fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Unstable or out-of-spec power source", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "For P3, ask campsite management or check whether the pedestal voltage is too high; relocate to a properly regulated supply if possible", "Confirm the unit is connected to a correctly wired, in-spec power source", "Restart on a known-good supply" ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect power for about 2 minutes", "Restore a verified in-spec supply and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Over-voltage and over-current faults can indicate a real electrical hazard. Do not keep resetting through a recurring trip; mains-level faults can cause fire. Disconnect power before any inspection.", "call_tech_when": "P2 over-current almost always needs a technician (compressor/wiring). For P3, if the supply voltage is verified normal, contact an authorized Dometic service agent.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter models only. P2 and P3 grouped here as a current/voltage protection pair; they are two separate codes in the manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display codes P2 and P3" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/p2-p3/", "meaning": "P2 ist der AC-Überstromschutz (das Gerät nimmt mehr Strom auf als zulässig). P3 ist der Überspannungsschutz (eingehende Versorgungsspannung zu hoch). Beide schalten das Gerät zum Schutz der Elektronik ab." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "P4 / P5 / P6 / P7", "code_slug": "p4-p7", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/p4-p7/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Refrigerant-circuit temperature protections. P4 = discharge tube (compressor outlet) overheat. P5 = evaporator coil protection in cooling. P6 = condenser coil protection in cooling. P7 = evaporator coil protection in heating. Each trips the compressor to prevent damage from abnormal coil/line temperatures.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Restricted airflow over the evaporator (dirty filter/coil) or condenser (blocked rooftop vents)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Operating outside the unit's rated ambient temperature range", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low refrigerant charge or a refrigerant-circuit fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Clean or replace the return-air filter and check the interior evaporator grille for blockage", "Check the rooftop shroud vents for leaves/debris and clean as needed", "Avoid running the unit far outside its rated ambient range and let it rest before restarting" ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off, clear any airflow restriction", "Disconnect power for about 2 minutes, then restore and restart" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not attempt to add refrigerant or open the sealed circuit — this requires a certified technician and is regulated. Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before any rooftop access.", "call_tech_when": "If these codes recur after the filter and both coils/airflow paths are clean and ambient is in range, contact an authorized Dometic service agent — a refrigerant or sensor fault is likely.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter models only. Grouped as coil/discharge temperature protections; they are four separate codes. P8 is not listed in the manual table.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display codes P4, P5, P6, P7" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/p4-p7/", "meaning": "Temperaturschutz im Kältemittelkreislauf. P4 = Überhitzung der Druckleitung (Verdichterauslass). P5 = Schutz der Verdampferspule im Kühlbetrieb. P6 = Schutz der Kondensatorspule im Kühlbetrieb. P7 = Schutz der Verdampferspule im Heizbetrieb. Jeder schaltet den Verdichter ab, um Schäden durch abnormale Spulen-/Leitungstemperaturen zu verhindern." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "P9", "code_slug": "p9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/air-conditioner/p9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Compressor drive abnormal, or the compressor fails to start. The inverter drive cannot bring the compressor up to speed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Compressor start fault or seized/failing compressor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Inverter drive electronics fault on the outdoor board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low or unstable supply preventing compressor start", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power the unit down fully for a few minutes and attempt one clean restart on a good supply", "Confirm the campsite voltage is adequate and stable", "Do not repeatedly cycle the unit if it keeps failing to start" ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off at the thermostat", "Disconnect power for about 2 minutes, then restore and try once more" ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 (FJX)", "Dometic FreshJet Series 7 (FJX)", "FreshJet inverter rooftop units" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A compressor that will not start can draw heavy current. Stop resetting if it keeps tripping and disconnect power; repeated stalls can overheat wiring.", "call_tech_when": "P9 typically needs a technician — contact an authorized Dometic service agent if it does not clear on a single clean restart.", "caveats": "FreshJet FJX inverter models only.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic FreshJet Series 4 / Series 7 Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-freshjet-fjx7-3000_9620001685_123479.pdf", "manualRef": "9620001685, Troubleshooting section, display code P9" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/air-conditioner/p9/", "meaning": "Verdichterantrieb abnormal, oder der Verdichter startet nicht. Der Inverter-Antrieb kann den Verdichter nicht auf Drehzahl bringen." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "awning", "appliance_name": "Awning", "code": "Wind LEDs off / power on", "code_slug": "wind-leds-off", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/awning/wind-leds-off/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Dometic power awnings fitted with the wind sensor control module, the power light being on while the wind speed LEDs are off means the wind sensor function is currently disabled. The sensor's automatic retract protection is therefore not active. It is a status indication that can be toggled on or off by the user, not necessarily a fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Wind sensor was intentionally or accidentally switched off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sensor disabled and never re-enabled after a previous setting change", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control logic disabled the sensor pending a condition", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the power light is on (control box has power) but the wind speed LEDs are not lit.", "Follow the control's enable procedure to turn the wind sensor back on if you want auto-retract protection.", "Verify the wind sensor cup is clear of debris, spider nests, or water once re-enabled.", "Re-check that the wind speed LEDs light up after enabling, confirming the sensor is communicating." ], "reset_steps": [ "Use the wind sensor enable procedure shown on the control box to re-activate the sensor.", "Confirm the wind speed LEDs illuminate, indicating the sensor is active again." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic power awnings equipped with the wind sensor module (WeatherPro / Power Awning Pro style controls)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "With the wind sensor disabled there is no automatic wind protection, so manually retract the awning in wind, heavy rain, or when leaving the site to avoid bending or collapse. This is a 12V system; disconnect power before servicing the sensor or wiring.", "call_tech_when": "The wind speed LEDs will not light even after enabling the sensor, the box flashes indicating no sensor communication, or the sensor fails to retract the awning in clearly high wind.", "caveats": "This indicator belongs to Dometic's wind sensor control module, which is fitted to power awning installations including 9200-series WeatherPro setups. The base 9100/9200 hardware itself uses a simple wired switch and has no diagnostic LEDs. Exact enable steps vary by control version.", "sources": [ { "title": "Wind speed LEDs off/power light on", "publisher": "Dometic (official support)", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/awnings-us/Wind-speed-LEDs-offpower-light-on-f54a", "manualRef": "Dometic Awnings (US) Support - Wind sensor LED status" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/awning/wind-leds-off/", "meaning": "Bei elektrischen Dometic-Markisen mit Windsensor-Steuermodul bedeutet eine leuchtende Betriebsanzeige bei gleichzeitig erloschenen Windgeschwindigkeits-LEDs, dass die Windsensor-Funktion derzeit deaktiviert ist. Der automatische Einzugsschutz des Sensors ist daher nicht aktiv. Es handelt sich um eine Statusanzeige, die vom Benutzer ein- oder ausgeschaltet werden kann, und nicht zwingend um einen Fehler." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "E31 (low voltage alert)", "code_slug": "e31", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/e31/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The cooler stopped running on 12/24V DC because the incoming supply voltage dropped below the cut-off point of its built-in battery protection. The cooler shuts the compressor off to avoid draining the vehicle/leisure battery.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Supply voltage too low at the cooler's DC socket (weak or discharging battery)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Line loss from long, thin, or splitter/extension cables dropping voltage under load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Battery protection level set too high (High) for the power source being used", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Poor or corroded plug/socket connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage while the compressor is running (under load), not at rest — a battery can read 12.8V idle but sag below cut-off under load.", "Remove any splitters, pigtails, or extension leads and plug directly into a clean, tight DC socket.", "In the cooler menu, lower the battery protection one step (e.g. High to Medium, or Medium to Low) — use Low only when running off a dedicated leisure/dual battery, not the starter battery.", "Try running on AC mains power to confirm the cooler itself is fine.", "Charge or run the engine to raise battery voltage and see if the alert clears." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore adequate supply voltage (charge the battery or switch to AC).", "The alert clears automatically once voltage rises back above the cut-off threshold; no manual reset is required." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on 12V DC wiring with the source disconnected. Lead-acid batteries can deliver very high short-circuit currents and contain corrosive acid; never bridge battery terminals and wear eye protection when handling them.", "call_tech_when": "The cooler still shows low-voltage with a known-good fully charged battery, a short direct cable, and battery protection set to Low — that points to an internal fault.", "caveats": "Dometic's interactive support page confirms the meaning and the three causes (low supply voltage, low battery, protection set too high); the detailed self-help steps (cable/protection-level advice) are corroborated by Dometic's related CFX low-voltage articles and owner reports.", "sources": [ { "title": "!ALERT [E31] - Low voltage | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/ALERT-E31-Low-voltage-8032", "manualRef": "Dometic CFX3 Coolers support / alert & warning codes" }, { "title": "What is the battery protection system? | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/What-is-the-battery-protection-system-3270", "manualRef": "CFX3 3-stage battery protection" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/e31/", "meaning": "Die Kühlbox hat den Betrieb mit 12/24 V Gleichspannung eingestellt, weil die eingehende Versorgungsspannung unter den Abschaltpunkt ihres integrierten Batterieschutzes gefallen ist. Die Kühlbox schaltet den Kompressor ab, um eine Entladung der Fahrzeug-/Bordbatterie zu vermeiden." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 01 / 02 (NTC sensor)", "code_slug": "warning-01-02", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-01-02/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The cooler's temperature sensor (an NTC thermistor) reads as an open circuit (01) or a short circuit (02). The controller can no longer trust the temperature reading and flags a sensor fault. On dual-zone models this refers to the single-zone / large-compartment sensor.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected, broken, or pinched NTC sensor wire (open circuit, code 01)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Shorted NTC sensor or wiring, often from moisture/damage (short circuit, code 02)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed NTC thermistor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal control-board fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect any accessible sensor wiring and connectors for damage, looseness, or moisture.", "Make sure nothing inside the box is crushing or pinching the sensor lead.", "Note: the sensor is internal — confirm the fault by ruling out obvious external causes before seeking service." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and disconnect power for at least 5 minutes, then power back on to see if it was a transient glitch.", "If the NTC warning returns, the sensor or board likely needs service — contact Dometic." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect DC and AC power before any internal inspection. Avoid forcing apart sealed compartments — damaging the refrigerant circuit is hazardous and voids the warranty.", "call_tech_when": "The NTC open/short warning persists after a power-cycle — the thermistor or control board needs professional replacement; these are not user-serviceable on most CFX3 units.", "caveats": "Dometic confirms Warning 01 = NTC open circuit and Warning 02 = NTC short circuit (SZ & DZ large compartment) and describes it as an internal sensor fault. Dual-zone models also have Warning 11/12 for the small-zone sensor. Repair generally requires service rather than a DIY fix.", "sources": [ { "title": "!WARNING 02 NTC short circuit SZ & DZ LARGE | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/WARNING-02-NTC-short-circuit-SZ-and-DZ-LARGE-6add", "manualRef": "CFX3 alert & warning codes — Warning 02" }, { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index — Warning 01/02 NTC open/short circuit" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-01-02/", "meaning": "Der Temperatursensor der Kühlbox (ein NTC-Thermistor) wird als Unterbrechung (01) oder als Kurzschluss (02) erkannt. Die Steuerung kann dem Temperaturwert nicht mehr vertrauen und meldet einen Sensorfehler. Bei Zweizonen-Modellen bezieht sich dies auf den Sensor der Einzelzone bzw. des großen Fachs." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 03 / 43 (communication)", "code_slug": "warning-03-43", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-03-43/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "An internal communication fault between the cooler's electronic components (for example display and control board, or the two zones' controllers). The parts cannot exchange data correctly.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal wiring/connector fault between control modules", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Transient electronics glitch", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power the cooler fully off and disconnect from all power sources.", "Confirm the DC/AC supply is stable and the plug is fully seated.", "Power-cycle to see if the communication error was a one-off glitch." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and disconnect power for at least 5 minutes.", "Reconnect and switch on.", "If the communication error returns, contact Dometic service." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect both DC and AC power before any inspection. Internal control boards are not user-serviceable; probing live electronics can cause shorts and shock-equivalent damage to the unit.", "call_tech_when": "The communication error persists after a power-cycle — an internal connection or control board likely needs professional attention.", "caveats": "Dometic's CFX3 warning index lists Warning 03/43 as a communication error. Causes and the power-cycle remedy are inferred from the fault type and Dometic's standard restart guidance; persistent cases require service.", "sources": [ { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index — Warning 03/43 Communication error" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-03-43/", "meaning": "Ein interner Kommunikationsfehler zwischen den elektronischen Komponenten der Kühlbox (zum Beispiel zwischen Display und Steuerplatine oder zwischen den Steuerungen der beiden Zonen). Die Bauteile können keine Daten korrekt austauschen." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 11 / 12 (NTC sensor)", "code_slug": "warning-11-12", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-11-12/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Same kind of temperature-sensor fault as Warning 01/02, but for the small zone of a dual-zone (DZ) cooler: an open circuit (11) or short circuit (12) on the small-compartment NTC thermistor.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Broken/disconnected small-zone sensor wiring (open circuit, code 11)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Shorted small-zone sensor or wiring (short circuit, code 12)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed small-zone NTC thermistor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control-board fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, check any reachable small-zone sensor connections for looseness, damage, or moisture.", "Confirm the issue is isolated to the small/second zone (the large zone may still run normally).", "Power-cycle to rule out a transient fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and disconnect power for at least 5 minutes.", "Power back on and check whether the warning clears.", "If it returns, contact Dometic service." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before inspecting. Do not pry into sealed cooling sections — damaging the refrigerant system is dangerous and ends the warranty.", "call_tech_when": "The small-zone NTC warning persists after a power-cycle; the thermistor or board needs professional replacement.", "caveats": "Confirmed on Dometic's CFX3 warning index as NTC open/short circuit for the DZ (dual-zone) small compartment. Applies only to dual-zone models. Remedy follows Dometic's standard sensor-fault path (power-cycle, then service).", "sources": [ { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index — Warning 11/12 NTC open/short circuit DZ small" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-11-12/", "meaning": "Dieselbe Art von Temperatursensorfehler wie Warning 01/02, jedoch für die kleine Zone einer Zweizonen-Kühlbox (DZ): eine Unterbrechung (11) oder ein Kurzschluss (12) am NTC-Thermistor des kleinen Fachs." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 32 (fan overcurrent)", "code_slug": "warning-32", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-32/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The cooling fan is drawing more current than allowed, which the controller treats as a fan fault and flags as overcurrent.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fan obstructed or jammed by debris", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing fan motor drawing excess current", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal wiring/controller fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power disconnected, inspect the fan for dust, debris, or anything blocking the blades.", "Gently clear the fan grille and surrounding vents.", "Check that the fan spins freely by hand (power off)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and disconnect power.", "Wait at least 5 minutes.", "Reconnect and switch on.", "If it recurs, contact Dometic service for fan/controller inspection." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always disconnect both DC and AC power before touching the fan — it can start automatically and pinch fingers, and probing live low-voltage wiring can short and damage the electronics.", "call_tech_when": "The fan is clear and spins freely but the overcurrent warning persists, indicating a failing fan motor or controller.", "caveats": "The 'Fan overcurrent' label is confirmed on Dometic's CFX3 warning index. Specific causes/remedies are inferred from the fault description and Dometic's general restart guidance; fan service typically requires Dometic or a technician.", "sources": [ { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index — Warning 32 Fan overcurrent" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-32/", "meaning": "Der Kühllüfter nimmt mehr Strom auf als zulässig, was die Steuerung als Lüfterfehler wertet und als Überstrom meldet." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 33 (compressor start)", "code_slug": "warning-33", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-33/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The cooler's controller tried to start the compressor but it did not start, so the controller flags a start failure. This is frequently triggered by marginal supply voltage rather than a dead compressor.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Supply voltage too low/sagging when the compressor tries to start", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Internal controller or compressor relay fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded power connection causing voltage drop on start", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm a strong supply voltage under load (charge the battery or run on AC).", "Check the DC plug and socket for a tight, clean, corrosion-free connection.", "Give the cooler room to start — ensure it is upright and not in extreme heat." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the cooler off and disconnect power.", "Wait at least 5 minutes.", "Reconnect power and switch it back on.", "If the warning returns, contact Dometic customer service." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect DC and AC power before checking any wiring. Do not open the compressor compartment while energized — the compressor circuit can hold charge and operates at currents that can cause burns or arcing.", "call_tech_when": "The warning persists after a full 5-minute power-off restart with confirmed good voltage — that indicates an internal compressor or controller fault requiring service.", "caveats": "Dometic's page gives the meaning (internal fault) and the off-5-minutes-then-restart remedy; the strong real-world link to low supply voltage is from multiple owner reports, so treat voltage as the first thing to check before assuming hardware failure.", "sources": [ { "title": "!WARNING 33 Compressor start fail | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/WARNING-33-Compressor-start-fail-bb8", "manualRef": "CFX3 alert & warning codes — Warning 33" }, { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-33/", "meaning": "Die Steuerung der Kühlbox hat versucht, den Kompressor zu starten, doch dieser ist nicht angelaufen, daher meldet die Steuerung einen Startfehler. Dies wird häufig durch eine grenzwertige Versorgungsspannung ausgelöst und nicht durch einen defekten Kompressor." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 34 (compressor speed)", "code_slug": "warning-34", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-34/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The compressor is running but cannot reach or hold its target speed, so the controller reports a low-speed condition. Often a sign the compressor is struggling against poor power or restricted cooling airflow.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Supply voltage marginal / sagging under load", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blocked vents or insufficient clearance causing the unit to overwork", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal controller or compressor fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Ensure good supply voltage (charge battery or run on AC).", "Give the cooler at least the recommended clearance around its air vents and keep the condenser/fan grille clear of dust.", "Move the cooler out of direct sun and extreme heat." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the cooler off and disconnect power.", "Wait at least 5 minutes.", "Reconnect and switch back on.", "If it recurs, contact Dometic service." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always disconnect both DC and AC power before clearing vents or inspecting the fan. Keep fingers clear of the cooling fan, which can start automatically when powered.", "call_tech_when": "The warning keeps returning after a restart with good voltage and clear ventilation — likely an internal compressor/electronics fault.", "caveats": "The code label 'Compressor speed low' is confirmed on Dometic's CFX3 warning index; the off-5-minutes restart remedy mirrors Dometic's guidance for the related compressor warnings (33/35). Ventilation/voltage causes are inferred from Dometic's general CFX3 troubleshooting advice.", "sources": [ { "title": "I see an alert message or warning code | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/I-see-an-alert-message-or-warning-code-c674", "manualRef": "CFX3 warning code index — Warning 34 Compressor speed low" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-34/", "meaning": "Der Kompressor läuft, kann aber seine Zieldrehzahl nicht erreichen oder halten, daher meldet die Steuerung einen Zustand mit zu niedriger Drehzahl. Oft ein Zeichen dafür, dass der Kompressor gegen schlechte Stromversorgung oder eingeschränkten Kühlluftstrom ankämpft." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "cooler", "appliance_name": "Portable Cooler", "code": "Warning 35 (overtemperature)", "code_slug": "warning-35", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/cooler/warning-35/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The temperature of the cooler's electronic controller has risen too high, so it stops the compressor to protect itself until it cools down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "High ambient temperature around the cooler", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air vents blocked or insufficient clearance around the unit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal fault in the electronics", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Move the cooler to a cooler, shaded spot and out of direct sunlight.", "Make sure the air-intake and exhaust vents are unobstructed with ample clearance on all sides.", "Clean dust off the ventilation grille and fan area.", "Let the unit cool down before restarting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the cooler off and disconnect power.", "Allow it to cool in a ventilated, shaded location for several minutes.", "Reconnect power and switch on.", "If the warning persists once cooled, contact Dometic service." ], "affected_models": [ "CFX3 25", "CFX3 35", "CFX3 45", "CFX3 55", "CFX3 55IM", "CFX3 75DZ", "CFX3 95DZ", "CFX3 100" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before cleaning vents. A hot controller compartment can cause burns; let it cool first and keep hands away from the auto-starting cooling fan.", "call_tech_when": "The overtemperature warning continues after the unit has fully cooled in a well-ventilated spot — that points to a failing controller or fan.", "caveats": "Dometic's support page confirms the label and lists high ambient temperature, blocked vents/clearance, and internal fault as causes. The cool-down-and-restart procedure follows Dometic's standard remedy for this class of warning.", "sources": [ { "title": "!WARNING 35 Controller overtemperature | CFX3 Coolers | Support", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/cfx3-coolers/WARNING-35-Controller-overtemperature-8728", "manualRef": "CFX3 alert & warning codes — Warning 35" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/cooler/warning-35/", "meaning": "Die Temperatur der elektronischen Steuerung der Kühlbox ist zu hoch gestiegen, daher stoppt sie den Kompressor zum Eigenschutz, bis sie abgekühlt ist." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "1 red LED flash", "code_slug": "1-flash", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/1-flash/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery-protection cut-out. The supply voltage measured at the fridge's own electronics has left the permitted window — nearly always too low, occasionally too high — so the compressor electronics switch the unit off to protect the battery and themselves. Dometic publishes the thresholds: on a 12 V system the fridge cuts out at 10.4 V and only cuts back in at 11.7 V; on 24 V it is 22.8 V and 24.2 V. The LED colour differs by series — CRX flashes red, NRX flashes orange — the fault is identical. The point most owners miss: the voltage that decides this is the one arriving at the fridge, not the one on the battery.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Voltage drop in the DC supply — cable too thin or too long for the run — so the electronics see below 10.4 V while the battery still reads 12.5 V", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "House/leisure battery genuinely discharged below the 10.4 V cut-out", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Extra switches, plugs, sockets or distribution blocks in the feed, each adding contact resistance — Dometic's installation instructions explicitly warn against them", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose terminal, a hot fuse holder, or a poor negative/ground return", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Over-voltage: an alternator, DC-DC or mains charger pushing the rail above the permitted maximum (17 V on a 12 V system, 31.5 V on 24 V)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure at the fridge, not at the battery — and do it while the compressor is actually running. A battery resting at 12.6 V can arrive at the fridge as 10.2 V under load if the cable is undersized. This one check separates a flat battery from a wiring problem, and it is the check almost everyone skips.", "Compare the reading against the published thresholds: cut-out 10.4 V and cut-in 11.7 V on 12 V systems, 22.8 V and 24.2 V on 24 V. Mind the gap between them — once it has cut out at 10.4 V it will not restart until the supply recovers to 11.7 V, so a marginal system stays off much longer than owners expect.", "Check cable size against the run length. The BD-type compressor electronics used in these fridges are specified for about 2.5 m of 2.5 mm² (AWG 13) on 12 V, 4 m of 4 mm², 6 m of 6 mm² and 10 m of 10 mm². Measure the whole path — positive cable plus negative return — not the straight-line distance to the battery. On 24 V the same cross-sections allow roughly double the length.", "Remove interruptions from the feed. Dometic's manual asks for a connection cable that is as short as possible and not interrupted, and specifically says to avoid additional switches, plugs and power strips — each one adds resistance that only shows up as a cut-out under load.", "Check the negative return as carefully as the positive. Owners test the positive terminal, find 12 V, and stop; a corroded ground or a shared negative bar produces exactly the same drop.", "If it only cuts out while driving or charging, look at the over-voltage side instead: measure the rail with the alternator, DC-DC charger or mains charger running. Dometic also warns to disconnect the fridge before connecting the battery to a quick-charging device, because over-voltage can damage the electronics." ], "reset_steps": [ "There is nothing to reset — this is a protection cut-out, not a lockout. Once the voltage recovers above the cut-in threshold (11.7 V on a 12 V system) the unit restarts by itself after a short delay.", "To test properly: restore a solid supply, switch the fridge off, disconnect power for about a minute, reconnect, and then watch the LED while the compressor is running rather than while it is idle.", "If the fault reappears the moment the compressor starts, stop resetting and fix the supply path. Repeated cut-outs are the symptom, not the fault." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "CRX0050", "CRX0065", "CRX0080", "CRX0110", "CRX1050", "CRX1065", "CRX1080", "CRX1110", "CRX1140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "2-flashes", "3-flashes", "4-flashes", "5-flashes", "constant-red" ], "safety_note": "Work on DC wiring with the power disconnected. Keep the specified fuse: the BD electronics are documented with a 15 A fuse on 12 V and 7.5 A on 24 V, fitted in the positive cable as close to the battery as possible. Never fit a bigger fuse to stop it blowing — undersized or loose DC connections heat up and are a genuine fire risk.", "call_tech_when": "The voltage at the fridge terminals stays inside the window while the compressor runs, the cable and connections are sound, and the 1-flash cut-out still keeps coming — the electronics unit may be misreading the supply.", "caveats": "Two things about this code are widely misstated. First, 1 flash is not a verdict on the battery: it reports that the voltage at the electronics left the permitted window, which a perfectly healthy battery on thin or long cable does routinely. Second, 10.4 V is not a universal constant. On the underlying BD electronics the cut-out is programmable with a resistor between terminals C and P and can be set anywhere from about 9.6 V to 11.3 V (with cut-in from 10.9 V to 12.5 V), which is why two seemingly identical installations cut out at different voltages. The 10.4 V / 11.7 V pair is what Dometic publishes for the CRX series and is the factory default. Below roughly 8 V the compressor and fan stop immediately whatever the setting. Dometic gives the cable requirement as a cross-section-versus-length chart rather than a table; the metre figures quoted here come from the compressor-electronics documentation (Secop BD series), which Dometic does not name in its manuals — that attribution is inferred from matching specifications.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.6 DC connection (cut-off/cut-in voltage table) and section 12 Troubleshooting (LED flash table)" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 35-130 Operating Manual (AMER)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/105523OM.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency / error table (4445103632)" }, { "title": "Electronic Unit for BD35F/BD50F/BD35K/BD80CN Compressors — Instructions (DES.I.101.X2.02)", "publisher": "Secop", "manualRef": "Operational error table (LED flashes 1-6), battery protection defaults, wire dimension table (Fig. 2), fuse ratings" }, { "title": "Operating Instructions — Controllers for BD Compressors (DES.S.100.F2.02)", "publisher": "Secop", "manualRef": "§6 Battery protection: programming resistor R2 table, cut-out delay, restart delay" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/1-flash/", "meaning": "Batterieschutz-Abschaltung. Die Versorgungsspannung, die an der Elektronik des Kühlschranks ankommt, hat den zulässigen Bereich verlassen — fast immer nach unten, seltener nach oben — und die Kompressorelektronik schaltet das Gerät ab, um Batterie und sich selbst zu schützen. Dometic nennt die Schwellen: Im 12-V-System schaltet der Kühlschrank bei 10,4 V ab und erst bei 11,7 V wieder ein; im 24-V-System sind es 22,8 V und 24,2 V. Die LED-Farbe unterscheidet sich nach Baureihe — CRX blinkt rot, NRX blinkt orange — der Fehler ist derselbe. Entscheidend ist der Punkt, den die meisten übersehen: Maßgeblich ist die Spannung, die am Kühlschrank ankommt, nicht die an der Batterie." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "2 red LED flashes", "code_slug": "2-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/2-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Two flashes covers two different faults, and Dometic's own table lists both: excessive fan current — a fan load on the electronics unit above 1 A — or too many start attempts, meaning the compressor or fan has been started too often within a short period. In an RV the second cause is by far the more common one, and it is usually a symptom of a marginal 12 V supply rather than a broken fan, which is why replacing the fan so often changes nothing. CRX models flash red, NRX models orange.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Short-cycling on a marginal DC supply: voltage sags on the start surge, the electronics abort, retry, and the repeated attempts trip the start-attempt counter", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Fan blade jammed, stiff or clogged with dust so the motor stalls and draws high current", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Constant restart demand — door left ajar, thermostat hunting, or the unit being switched on and off by hand repeatedly", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing fan motor with worn or shorted windings", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Wrong or extra load on the fan output: it is a 12 V output even in a 24 V system and is rated for a small fan, so a second fan, an oversized aftermarket fan or a pump relay overloads it", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Pinched, chafed or shorted fan wiring or connector", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Work out which of the two faults you have before buying anything. Watch the unit for a few minutes: if the compressor tries to start, stops, and tries again, you are on the start-attempt branch and the supply is the suspect. If the fan is visibly stalled, noisy, or hot to the touch, you are on the fan-current branch.", "With the power off, spin the fan by hand — it should turn freely and coast for a moment. Clear dust, lint and debris from the blade, the condenser fins and the compartment around them.", "Measure the supply voltage at the fridge terminals during a start attempt. The start surge is the highest current the unit ever draws; if the rail sags toward the 10.4 V cut-out at that moment, you get exactly this pattern of start, abort, retry.", "Check what is wired to the fan output. It is specified as a small 12 V output — Dometic gives the trip point as a fan load above 1 A, while the electronics manufacturer specifies a continuous fan current above 0.5 A average as the fault condition. An added second fan, a bigger aftermarket fan or a relay is enough to cross that line.", "Inspect the fan wiring and its connector for pinching, chafing or melted insulation, and confirm the fan is a 12 V type even if the installation runs on 24 V.", "Stop power-cycling the fridge while you diagnose. Repeatedly switching it off and on is itself a way to trigger the start-attempt branch, and it masks whether your fix worked." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear the obstruction or fix the supply first, then switch the fridge off and leave it off for a few minutes so the start counter and the system pressures settle.", "Switch it back on and let it run undisturbed through a full cooling cycle. A fault that only stays away while you keep power-cycling has not been fixed." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "1-flash", "3-flashes", "4-flashes", "5-flashes", "constant-red" ], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before reaching near the fan or its wiring. A fan circuit that keeps tripping on overcurrent runs hot; do not keep the unit in service with damaged fan wiring or a stalling motor.", "call_tech_when": "The fan spins freely, nothing extra is wired to the fan output, the supply holds voltage under load, and 2 flashes still return — the fan motor or the electronics unit needs testing.", "caveats": "Most published summaries reduce 2 flashes to 'fan overcurrent' and stop there. Dometic's own CRX50/65/80 table lists a second cause under the same two flashes — too many start attempts — which has nothing to do with the fan at all. The tables also differ between models: for the CRX110 and CRX140 Dometic prints only the fan-current cause. The current figures differ by source as well: Dometic states a fan load above 1 A, while the underlying BD electronics documentation specifies a fan current above 0.5 A average, with brief start peaks tolerated. Read 1 A as the number Dometic will quote you and 0.5 A as the continuous load the output is actually designed for.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.6 DC connection (cut-off/cut-in voltage table) and section 12 Troubleshooting (LED flash table)" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 35-130 Operating Manual (AMER)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/105523OM.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency / error table (4445103632)" }, { "title": "Electronic Unit for BD35F/BD50F/BD35K/BD80CN Compressors — Instructions (DES.I.101.X2.02)", "publisher": "Secop", "manualRef": "Operational error table (LED flashes 1-6), battery protection defaults, wire dimension table (Fig. 2), fuse ratings" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/2-flashes/", "meaning": "Zwei Blinkzeichen decken zwei verschiedene Fehler ab, und Dometics eigene Tabelle führt beide auf: zu hoher Lüfterstrom — eine Lüfterlast an der Elektronik über 1 A — oder zu viele Startversuche, also Kompressor oder Lüfter wurden innerhalb kurzer Zeit zu oft gestartet. Im Wohnmobil ist die zweite Ursache die deutlich häufigere, und sie ist meist ein Symptom einer grenzwertigen 12-V-Versorgung und nicht eines defekten Lüfters — weshalb der Austausch des Lüfters so oft nichts ändert. CRX-Modelle blinken rot, NRX-Modelle orange." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "3 red LED flashes", "code_slug": "3-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/3-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The compressor motor will not start. Dometic gives two causes: the rotor is jammed, or the pressure difference inside the sealed cooling system is too high — above 5 bar — for the motor to start against. The pressure case is ordinary physics rather than a defect: switch a running fridge off and straight back on and the high and low sides have not equalised yet. The distinction that matters for diagnosis: with 3 flashes the compressor never turns at all. If it does start and then cannot hold its speed, that is 4 flashes. CRX models flash red, NRX models orange.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Restarted too soon after switch-off, so refrigerant pressures had not equalised (difference above 5 bar)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Supply voltage sagging during the start surge, so the motor cannot develop enough starting torque", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electronics unit no longer driving the motor — a 3-flash fault that appears immediately at power-up on a cold, settled system points here", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Condenser blocked or ventilation restricted, keeping head pressure high so the system never fully equalises", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Compressor rotor mechanically jammed or seized", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Give it time before you do anything else: switch the fridge off, wait 5–10 minutes so the high and low sides equalise, then start it again. If it runs, the fault was pressure and not a broken compressor.", "Note when the flashes appear — this is the most useful free diagnostic you have. Straight after power-up on a cold, settled system points at the electronics or the motor. After a running period, or right after a quick off/on, points at pressure equalisation.", "Measure the supply voltage at the fridge terminals during the start attempt, not at rest. Starting is the highest load the unit ever puts on the cable, so a marginal or corroded supply shows up here before anywhere else.", "Check that the condenser and the ventilation openings are clear. Restricted heat rejection keeps the pressure difference high and makes starting harder.", "Confirm the unit is roughly level; operating heavily off-level makes the compressor harder to start.", "Let the electronics do the retrying. After a fault the unit attempts a restart on its own roughly every minute. Switching it off and on by hand adds nothing except start attempts — and enough of those trigger the separate 2-flash fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off and wait several minutes so the cooling-system pressures equalize.", "Ensure supply voltage is in range, then switch the fridge back on to attempt a clean restart." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "1-flash", "2-flashes", "4-flashes", "5-flashes", "constant-red" ], "safety_note": "The sealed refrigerant circuit is pressurised and must never be opened or tampered with by a DIYer; only a qualified refrigeration technician may work on it. Disconnect power before any inspection.", "call_tech_when": "3 flashes persist after a full pressure-equalisation wait with confirmed good voltage at the terminals — the electronics unit or the compressor itself needs professional testing.", "caveats": "A 3-flash code is routinely read as 'the compressor is dead'. That is the least likely explanation of the ones listed: these BD compressors rarely fail internally, and service practice for this electronics family treats an internal compressor fault as unlikely compared with a failed electronics unit, a pressure-equalisation problem or a weak supply. The '> 5 bar' figure is Dometic's own, printed in the CRX troubleshooting table; the AMER NRX manual states only that the pressure difference is too high, without a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.6 DC connection (cut-off/cut-in voltage table) and section 12 Troubleshooting (LED flash table)" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 35-130 Operating Manual (AMER)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/105523OM.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency / error table (4445103632)" }, { "title": "Electronic Unit for BD35F/BD50F/BD35K/BD80CN Compressors — Instructions (DES.I.101.X2.02)", "publisher": "Secop", "manualRef": "Operational error table (LED flashes 1-6), battery protection defaults, wire dimension table (Fig. 2), fuse ratings" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/3-flashes/", "meaning": "Der Kompressormotor läuft nicht an. Dometic nennt zwei Ursachen: Der Rotor ist blockiert, oder die Druckdifferenz im geschlossenen Kältekreis ist zu hoch — über 5 bar — als dass der Motor dagegen anlaufen könnte. Der Druckfall ist gewöhnliche Physik und kein Defekt: Schalten Sie einen laufenden Kühlschrank aus und sofort wieder ein, haben sich Hoch- und Niederdruckseite noch nicht ausgeglichen. Entscheidend für die Diagnose ist die Abgrenzung: Bei 3 Blinkzeichen dreht der Kompressor überhaupt nicht. Läuft er an und kann die Drehzahl dann nicht halten, sind das 4 Blinkzeichen. CRX-Modelle blinken rot, NRX-Modelle orange." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "4 red LED flashes", "code_slug": "4-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/4-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Compressor speed too low. The motor did start, but could not hold its minimum running speed — Dometic gives this as 1,850 rpm for the CRX series — so the electronics flagged a fault and stopped. On CRX models the indicator flashes red, on NRX models orange. The distinction that matters: the compressor was turning. If it never starts at all, that is 3 flashes, not 4.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Cooling system overloaded by high ambient temperature plus poor ventilation around the unit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Condenser fins or vents blocked with dust/debris reducing heat rejection", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Large amount of warm/hot food loaded at once, or door left open too long", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop in undersized or overlong 12 V wiring, so the electronics see low voltage even though the battery is fine", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the DC voltage at the fridge's own terminals while the compressor is running — not at the battery. This is the check most people skip, and it is the one that finds the wiring cases: thin or long cable can drop enough voltage under load that the electronics are starved while the battery still reads healthy.", "Check the cable size against the run length. The BD-type electronics used here are specified for roughly 2.5 m at 2.5 mm² (AWG 13) on 12 V, 4 m at 4 mm², 6 m at 6 mm² and 10 m at 10 mm². The 2.5 m figure surprises most RV owners — a longer run on thin cable is a genuine cause, not a marginal one.", "Remove extra junctions: additional switches, plugs and power strips in the supply each add voltage drop. The supply should run as directly to the battery as practical.", "Improve airflow: ensure the required clearance around the unit and that intake and exhaust vents are unobstructed.", "Clean dust and debris from the condenser and fan.", "Avoid loading large amounts of warm food at once and keep the door closed; let hot items cool down first." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the load — improve ventilation, close the door, let warm contents cool — then power the fridge off for about a minute.", "Switch it back on; the fault clears once the system is no longer overloaded.", "If it returns under the same conditions with no change in temperature, treat it as a supply-voltage or mechanical problem rather than a heat problem." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "1-flash", "2-flashes", "3-flashes", "5-flashes", "constant-red" ], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before cleaning the condenser or fan. Do not modify or restrict the factory ventilation openings, as inadequate airflow causes overheating.", "call_tech_when": "Ventilation is good, the condenser is clean, voltage is in range, and the unit is not overloaded, yet the 4-flash fault keeps returning — the compressor or electronics may be failing.", "caveats": "CRX manuals quote a minimum motor speed of 1,850 rpm; the NRX manual phrases it generically as 'minimum speed of the motor.' A figure of 1,900 rpm circulates on several parts and service sites — the manufacturer documentation consistently says 1,850. Telling 4 flashes apart from 5 flashes in practice: 4 flashes is not described as ambient-dependent and reappears reproducibly under the same load, whereas the 5-flash heat cut-out releases only after the board has cooled and therefore tends to disappear at night or in shade. Both share the same underlying cause wording in the electronics documentation ('cooling system too heavily loaded'), so a badly ventilated installation can trigger either. Rule of thumb: heat in the air points to 5, load on the refrigerant side or a weak supply points to 4. A flat battery is neither — undervoltage is always 1 flash.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, error indicator LED flash table (4445103628)" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 50-130 Operating Manual (EU)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/09-0904-090426-090426035_143665.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency / error table" }, { "title": "Instructions — Electronic Unit for BD35F/BD50F Compressors (101N0210–101N0320, 12/24 V)", "publisher": "Secop / Danfoss", "manualRef": "Error code table: 4 flashes = minimum motor speed error, motor cannot maintain 1,850 rpm; wire dimension table for DC supply" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-18", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/4-flashes/", "meaning": "Kompressordrehzahl zu niedrig. Der Motor ist angelaufen, konnte seine Mindestdrehzahl aber nicht halten — Dometic nennt dafür 1.850 U/min bei der CRX-Reihe — daher meldet die Elektronik einen Fehler und stoppt. Entscheidend zur Abgrenzung: Der Kompressor hat sich gedreht. Läuft er überhaupt nicht an, sind es 3 Blinkzeichen, nicht 4. Bei CRX-Modellen blinkt die Anzeige rot, bei NRX-Modellen orange." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "05 / W05", "code_slug": "05-w05", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/05-w05/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "AC (230 V mains) power problem: the fridge is set to run on AC but either no AC is connected or the AC voltage is too low (the 10-Series manual lists the threshold as under ~190 V). On the European 10-Series this is a 'warning' (W05) that clears on its own once power returns; on the RUA platform it appears simply as fault 05.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shore/mains power unplugged, tripped breaker, or the campsite/inverter supply is off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low/sagging AC voltage (long extension lead, weak generator or inverter)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown AC fuse on the fridge power board or a loose AC connector at the rear of the unit", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed AC heating element or power module", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is actually connected to live shore/mains power and the breaker for the fridge circuit is on.", "If on a generator or inverter, check it is running and delivering stable, full voltage.", "Try a known-good outlet or a shorter, heavier-gauge power lead and see if the code clears.", "Visually check that the AC plug/connector at the back of the fridge is fully seated (only if you can reach it safely with power off)." ], "reset_steps": [ "On RUA models: press and hold the encoder/control knob about 3 seconds until you hear a beep — do NOT hold too long or you will switch the fridge off instead of resetting.", "On 10-Series models: W-warnings normally clear automatically once AC power is restored; if needed press the control knob ~2 seconds." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic RUA series", "Dometic 10-Series (RM10.5, RMD10.5, RMS10.5 incl. T/S/XT variants)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "AC mains and 230 V heating elements can deliver a fatal shock. Disconnect shore power and switch off the breaker before touching any rear AC wiring, fuses, or the element. If you are not comfortable working around mains voltage, leave it to a technician.", "call_tech_when": "AC power is confirmed present and at correct voltage but the code keeps returning, or the fridge will not cool on AC — this points to a failed AC element, fuse, or power module.", "caveats": "Code label differs by platform: North American/European RUA shows '05'; the 10-Series shows 'W05'. The <190 V threshold is from the 10-Series manual and may differ on other model lines.", "sources": [ { "title": "Display shows fault: 05 — RUA Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic (official product support)", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/rua-refrigerator/Display-shows-fault-05-1a7d", "manualRef": "RUA refrigerator fault 05 support page" }, { "title": "Dometic 10-Series Operating Manual (troubleshooting, p.29)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2043217/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=29", "manualRef": "10-Series operating manual, fault table W05" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/05-w05/", "meaning": "AC-Stromproblem (230 V Netz): Der Kühlschrank ist auf AC-Betrieb eingestellt, aber entweder ist kein AC angeschlossen oder die AC-Spannung ist zu niedrig (das Handbuch der 10-Serie nennt als Schwellenwert unter ca. 190 V). Bei der europäischen 10-Serie ist dies eine „Warnung“ (W05), die von selbst erlischt, sobald die Stromversorgung zurückkehrt; bei der RUA-Plattform erscheint sie schlicht als Fehler 05." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "5 red LED flashes", "code_slug": "5-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/5-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overheating of the electronics unit. The compressor's control electronics have exceeded their safe working temperature and have shut the compressor down to protect themselves. Note the LED colour differs by series: on CRX models the error indicator flashes red, on NRX models it flashes orange — the fault itself is identical. This is a self-clearing protection cut-out, not a component failure: the unit restarts on its own once the electronics have cooled.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Built-in installation without enough airflow, so the compressor compartment runs hotter than the surrounding cabin", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Ambient temperature above the unit's rated range (Dometic specifies +16 °C to +43 °C for CRX)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dust-clogged condenser and fan trapping heat at the electronics", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Temperature set too cold for the surrounding conditions, forcing continuous heavy running", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm it is really a thermal fault: a heat cut-out clears by itself once the board cools, so the fridge typically runs again in the evening, in shade, or after an hour with the door shut. A fault that returns immediately regardless of temperature is not this one.", "Check the ventilation openings first — this is the root cause in most RV installations. Dometic specifies roughly a 50 mm air gap around the unit (about 20 mm for the CRX140); the compressor compartment needs both a low intake and a high outlet so warm air can actually escape.", "Clean dust from the condenser fins, the fan, and the electronics area — a blocked condenser raises compartment temperature directly.", "In hot weather, set a moderate temperature instead of the coldest setting; continuous running keeps the board hot.", "If the unit sits in a sealed enclosure, add ventilation grilles or a compartment fan. The electronics module is mounted on the compressor itself, so it sits in the hottest spot of the installation." ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset is needed — the cut-out releases automatically once the electronics have cooled, followed by a short restart delay (about 60 seconds on the BD-type electronics used here).", "To speed it up: switch the fridge off, open the compartment, and let it cool with the vents clear.", "Fix the airflow before switching back on, otherwise the unit simply overheats again on the next cycle." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "1-flash", "2-flashes", "3-flashes", "4-flashes", "constant-red" ], "safety_note": "Always disconnect power before working near the electronics. Never block or seal the ventilation openings; restricted airflow causes repeated overheating and can damage the unit.", "call_tech_when": "The unit overheats and shows 5 flashes even with good ventilation, a clean condenser, and a moderate temperature setting — the electronics unit may be faulty.", "caveats": "Dometic publishes no temperature threshold for this code — its table lists only flashes, fault and cause, with no remedy column. Threshold figures therefore come from the compressor electronics manufacturer (Secop/Danfoss BD series), which Dometic does not name in its manuals; the attribution is inferred from matching specifications. Those figures are also generation-dependent: older instruction sheets state about 100 °C, while the 2016 operating instructions document the full hysteresis of 110 °C cut-out / 100 °C restart. Two widely copied figures are wrong: 55 °C is the maximum permitted ambient temperature of some variants, not the cut-out point, and the cut-out is measured on the circuit board, not in the room. Ventilation is the practical root cause in most field cases — the electronics are specified assuming the compressor compartment is as cool as the surrounding air, which is rarely true in a built-in RV installation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, error indicator LED flash table (4445103628)" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 35-130 Operating Manual (AMER)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/105523OM.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency / error table (4445103632)" }, { "title": "Operating Instructions — Electronic Unit for BD Compressors (DES.S.100.F2.02)", "publisher": "Secop", "manualRef": "§13 electronic unit protection: cut-out at 110 °C, automatic restart below 100 °C, 60 s restart delay" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-18", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/5-flashes/", "meaning": "Überhitzung der Elektronikeinheit. Die Steuerelektronik des Kompressors hat ihre zulässige Betriebstemperatur überschritten und den Kompressor zum Eigenschutz abgeschaltet. Achtung, die LED-Farbe unterscheidet sich je nach Baureihe: Bei CRX-Modellen blinkt die Fehleranzeige rot, bei NRX-Modellen orange — der Fehler selbst ist identisch. Es handelt sich um eine selbsttätig zurücksetzende Schutzabschaltung, nicht um einen Bauteildefekt: Das Gerät läuft von allein wieder an, sobald die Elektronik abgekühlt ist." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "06 / W06", "code_slug": "06-w06", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/06-w06/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "DC (12 V) power problem: the fridge expects a 12 V supply but none is connected (or it is out of range). On the 10-Series this is the W06 warning ('DC power not connected'); the related W10/overvoltage warning covers DC voltage above ~16 V. On RUA it shows as fault 06.", "causes": [ { "cause": "House battery disconnected, dead, or the 12 V supply to the fridge is switched off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown 12 V fuse or loose/corroded DC connector at the rear of the fridge", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "DC voltage out of range (very low from a flat battery, or overvoltage from a misadjusted charger)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the house battery is charged and the 12 V system is switched on.", "Check the fridge's 12 V fuse (in the RV fuse panel and, if accessible, near the fridge) and replace any blown fuse with the same rating.", "With power off, confirm the DC connector at the back of the fridge is clean and fully seated." ], "reset_steps": [ "On RUA models: press and hold the encoder/control knob ~3 seconds until a beep — do not hold too long or the fridge switches off.", "On 10-Series models: the W06 warning clears automatically once 12 V power is restored." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic RUA series", "Dometic 10-Series (RM/RMD/RMS 10.5 T/S/XT)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Even at 12 V, a shorted battery cable can arc and start a fire. Use correctly rated fuses, never bypass a fuse, and disconnect the battery before working on DC wiring.", "call_tech_when": "DC supply is confirmed present and in range but code 06/W06 persists, or there is repeated fuse blowing (which indicates a short or failed board).", "caveats": "RUA fault 06 = DC supply issue; the 10-Series splits DC faults into W06 (not connected) and W10 (overvoltage >16 V). Exact RUA wording was not retrievable in full, so meaning is corroborated against the 10-Series manual and Dometic's own fault page.", "sources": [ { "title": "Display shows fault: 06 — RUA Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic (official product support)", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/rua-refrigerator/Display-shows-fault-06-5690", "manualRef": "RUA refrigerator fault 06 support page" }, { "title": "Dometic 10-Series Operating Manual (troubleshooting, p.29)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2043217/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=29", "manualRef": "10-Series operating manual, fault table W06" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/06-w06/", "meaning": "DC-Stromproblem (12 V): Der Kühlschrank erwartet eine 12-V-Versorgung, doch es ist keine angeschlossen (oder sie liegt außerhalb des Bereichs). Bei der 10-Serie ist dies die Warnung W06 („DC-Strom nicht angeschlossen“); die zugehörige Warnung W10/Überspannung deckt eine DC-Spannung über ca. 16 V ab. Bei RUA wird sie als Fehler 06 angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "10 / W11 (door open)", "code_slug": "10-w11", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/10-w11/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Door-open warning: the refrigerator door has been left open (typically longer than ~2 minutes), so the unit warns the user. On the 10-Series this is the door-open warning (listed as W11 in the manual table) and is usually accompanied by a beep and a flashing icon; on RUA it appears as fault 10.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Door genuinely left open or not latched shut", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Misadjusted, dirty, or failed door switch/sensor reading the door as open", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Worn or distorted door seal/hinge preventing full closure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure the door is fully closed and latched, then reset.", "Check the door seal for food debris, ice, or distortion that holds the door ajar.", "Confirm the door light goes off when the door closes — if it stays on, suspect the door switch." ], "reset_steps": [ "Close the door fully.", "On RUA models: press and hold the encoder/control knob ~3 seconds until a beep (do not hold too long or the fridge turns off).", "On 10-Series models: the warning clears once the door is closed." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic RUA series", "Dometic 10-Series (RM/RMD/RMS 10.5)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a non-hazardous user warning. No gas or electrical work is required to clear it.", "call_tech_when": "The code persists with the door confirmed shut and latched — this usually indicates a faulty door switch/sensor or harness.", "caveats": "The door-open warning number differs between sources/platforms (RUA '10'; 10-Series manual table shows W11; some third-party charts list W10 for door). Treat the meaning (door open) as confirmed, the exact W-number as platform-dependent.", "sources": [ { "title": "Display shows fault: 10 — RUA Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic (official product support)", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/rua-refrigerator/Display-shows-fault-10-95ac", "manualRef": "RUA refrigerator fault 10 support page" }, { "title": "Dometic 10-Series Operating Manual (troubleshooting, p.29)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2043217/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=29", "manualRef": "10-Series operating manual, door-open warning" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/10-w11/", "meaning": "Warnung „Tür offen“: Die Kühlschranktür wurde offen gelassen (typischerweise länger als ca. 2 Minuten), sodass das Gerät den Benutzer warnt. Bei der 10er-Serie ist dies die Warnung „Tür offen“ (in der Tabelle des Handbuchs als W11 aufgeführt) und wird üblicherweise von einem Piepton und einem blinkenden Symbol begleitet; bei RUA erscheint sie als Fehler 10." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "50 / 51 / 52 (gas lock)", "code_slug": "50-51-52", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/50-51-52/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Gas (LP/propane) operation fault. On RUA models, codes 50/51/52 indicate the fridge has 'gas-locked' — typically after about three failed ignition attempts the control board stops trying and blocks gas operation until reset. The related 10-Series error E07 means 'no cooling capacity in gas mode.' This is the modern electronic equivalent of the older RM-series 'Check' light that comes on when no propane flame is detected after three ignition attempts.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Empty LP/propane bottle or the gas supply valve is shut off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air in the gas line after refuelling or after running the tank empty (needs purging by repeated ignition attempts)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Clogged burner/jet or blocked flue restricting the flame", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty igniter, flame-sense electrode, or gas valve solenoid", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Fridge not level enough to develop cooling in gas mode (also triggers E07-type 'no cooling' faults)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane bottle is not empty and the cylinder valve and any gas isolation valves are open.", "If a stove/cooktop is available, light a gas burner first to purge air and confirm gas is reaching the appliances.", "Make sure the RV/fridge is reasonably level.", "Visually check the burner area for obvious dirt, soot, or nests blocking the flue (with the gas off and unit cool)." ], "reset_steps": [ "On RUA models: after correcting the gas supply, press and hold the encoder/control knob ~3 seconds until a beep to reset; do not hold too long or the fridge switches off.", "On 10-Series models: press the control knob ~2 seconds to reset the error; E07 must be reset manually.", "If the fault returns immediately after a valid reset, stop and have it serviced." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic RUA series", "Dometic 10-Series (RM/RMD/RMS 10.5)", "Older Dometic RM-series with 'Check' light (e.g. RM2652/RM3962/RM1350) for the equivalent flame-failure behavior" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a combustion/propane fault. If you smell gas (rotten-egg odor) at any time, do NOT attempt to reset or relight — shut off the gas at the bottle, extinguish all flames, ventilate, and leave the area before calling for help. Never search for a leak with a flame; use soapy water or a gas detector. Repeated ignition failures can vent unburned propane.", "call_tech_when": "Gas supply is confirmed good, the unit is level, and air has been purged, but it still will not light or it gas-locks again — suspect a failed igniter, flame sensor, gas valve, clogged jet, or control board. Any gas smell or soot/yellow-flame condition warrants immediate professional service.", "caveats": "RUA codes 50/51/52 are all gas-related lockouts confirmed by Dometic's own fault pages; the exact distinction between 50, 51 and 52 was not fully retrievable, so they are grouped. E07 ('no cooling in gas mode') is a related but distinct 10-Series error. The 'three ignition attempts' detail is documented for RM-series check-light behavior and is widely reported for these gas-lock codes but exact attempt count may vary by model/firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Display shows fault: 50 — RUA Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic (official product support)", "url": "https://support.dometic.com/en/rua-refrigerator/Display-shows-fault-50-75f7", "manualRef": "RUA refrigerator fault 50 (gas) support page" }, { "title": "Dometic RMD 10-Series RMD10.5 Operating Manual (E07 'no cooling in gas mode')", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-rmd-10-5xt_74186.pdf", "manualRef": "RMD10.5 operating manual, error E07" }, { "title": "Dometic Refrigerator Service Training (Check light / 3 ignition attempts on RM-series)", "publisher": "Dometic (training material, hosted by MyRVWorks)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Dometic-Refrigerator-Training.pdf", "manualRef": "RM-series check-light flame-failure behavior" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/50-51-52/", "meaning": "Fehler im Gasbetrieb (LP/Propan). Bei RUA-Modellen weisen die Codes 50/51/52 darauf hin, dass der Kühlschrank in eine „Gassperre“ gegangen ist — typischerweise stellt die Steuerplatine nach etwa drei fehlgeschlagenen Zündversuchen die Versuche ein und blockiert den Gasbetrieb bis zum Zurücksetzen. Der zugehörige Fehler E07 der 10er-Serie bedeutet „keine Kühlleistung im Gasbetrieb“. Dies ist das moderne elektronische Gegenstück zur älteren „Check“-Leuchte der RM-Serie, die aufleuchtet, wenn nach drei Zündversuchen keine Propanflamme erkannt wird." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "CALL / Check", "code_slug": "call-check", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/call-check/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On 'Er'-code Dometic absorption fridges, a component failure makes the panel flash 'CALL' (sometimes read as a generic 'check' alert) alternating with a two-digit Er number. 'CALL' means a real hardware fault was detected and you should look up the accompanying Er code. It is distinct from the 'ch LP' (gas operation fault) and 'ch AC' (AC operation fault) status messages, which are operating/supply alerts rather than component failures.", "causes": [ { "cause": "An open-circuit hardware fault detected by the control board (defrost heater, fan, or temperature sensor), identified by the Er number shown with CALL", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose/corroded wiring or connectors causing an apparent open circuit", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Watch the panel through a full flash cycle and write down the two-digit Er code shown alongside 'CALL' — that number identifies the failed component.", "Distinguish from 'ch LP' / 'ch AC': those indicate a gas or AC supply problem (check propane supply/valves, or AC outlet/fuses) rather than a board-detected component failure.", "Check the 12V supply level and reseat rear and in-compartment connectors with power isolated before assuming a part has failed." ], "reset_steps": [ "Address the specific Er code shown with CALL (see the corresponding code record).", "Turn the fridge OFF, isolate 120V and 12V for several minutes, then power back ON to re-run the self-test.", "If no fault remains, CALL/Er stops; some faults only clear after an OFF/ON cycle." ], "affected_models": [ "NDA1402", "NDE1402", "NEA1402", "other Dometic absorption refrigerators using the 'Er'/'CALL' LED messaging" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Treat any gas-operation alert ('ch LP') seriously: do not keep resetting gas ignition repeatedly. If you smell propane, stop, shut off the gas, ventilate, and do not operate switches. Isolate AC and DC power before inspecting wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If 'CALL' keeps returning with the same Er code after you have checked fuses, wiring, connectors, and DC voltage, have a qualified RV refrigeration technician diagnose the named component (heater, fan, or sensor) or the control board.", "caveats": "Verified against the official NDA1402/NDE1402 manual. The user's phrasing 'check' / 'no FL' could not be matched to a specific documented fault label on this platform — 'FL' on some other Dometic units (e.g. RM1350 diagnostic mode) refers to flame/igniter state, not a fault code. The reliable, manual-confirmed indicator that accompanies codes 11/14 is the flashing 'CALL' component-failure message, documented here. If your panel literally shows 'FL'/'no FL', verify against your exact model's manual as it likely refers to flame status, not a board fault code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Diagnostic Service Manual — Dometic NDA1402 & NDE1402 Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic, LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 11.1 Status Messages, p. 33 (\"CA LL\" and an error code = component failure; \"ch LP\" gas fault, \"ch AC\" AC fault) and Section 11.2, p. 34" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/call-check/", "meaning": "Bei Dometic-Absorberkühlschränken mit „Er“-Codes lässt ein Bauteildefekt das Panel abwechselnd „CALL“ (manchmal als allgemeine „Check“-Warnung gelesen) und eine zweistellige Er-Nummer blinken. „CALL“ bedeutet, dass ein echter Hardwarefehler erkannt wurde und Sie den begleitenden Er-Code nachschlagen sollten. Es unterscheidet sich von den Statusmeldungen „ch LP“ (Fehler im Gasbetrieb) und „ch AC“ (Fehler im AC-Betrieb), die Betriebs-/Versorgungswarnungen statt Bauteildefekten sind." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Constant red LED", "code_slug": "constant-red", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/constant-red/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Temperature sensor error. The fridge's temperature sensor is reading as defective (open or short circuit), so the controller cannot regulate cooling and signals a continuous red indicator.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed temperature sensor / thermistor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Disconnected, pinched, or corroded sensor wiring or connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty electronics unit not reading the sensor correctly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect the temperature sensor connector and wiring for looseness, corrosion, or pinching and reseat the connector if accessible.", "Verify the sensor lead has not been dislodged inside the cabinet.", "Power-cycle the fridge to confirm the indicator stays constant rather than flashing a numeric fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reseat the sensor connection if it was loose, then power off for about a minute and power on again.", "If the sensor or wiring is damaged it must be repaired/replaced for the indicator to clear." ], "affected_models": [ "CRX50", "CRX65", "CRX80", "CRX110", "CRX140", "NRX0035", "NRX0050", "NRX0060", "NRX0080", "NRX0115", "NRX0130", "NRX1035", "NRX1050", "NRX1060", "NRX1080", "NRX1115", "NRX1130" ], "related_codes": [ "1-flash", "2-flashes", "3-flashes", "4-flashes", "5-flashes" ], "safety_note": "Disconnect power before inspecting internal wiring. A defective sensor can let the fridge over- or under-cool, so do not rely on it to keep food safe until repaired.", "call_tech_when": "Wiring looks intact but the indicator stays constantly lit — the sensor or electronics unit needs testing and replacement by a service technician.", "caveats": "Dometic lists this as the LED illuminating 'constantly' rather than a counted flash pattern, which distinguishes it from the numbered faults.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic CRX 50/65/80/110/140 Installation and Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-crx-50u_9105306125_75862.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, error indicator LED table — 'Constantly / Temperature sensor errors'" }, { "title": "Dometic NRX 35-130 Operating Manual (AMER)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/105523OM.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, flashing frequency table — 'Constantly / Temperature sensor errors'" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/constant-red/", "meaning": "Temperatursensorfehler. Der Temperatursensor des Kühlschranks wird als defekt erkannt (offener oder Kurzschluss), sodass die Steuerung die Kühlung nicht regeln kann und eine dauerhaft rote Anzeige signalisiert." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E03", "code_slug": "e03", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e03/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The display/control panel has lost communication with the power module (electronics board); the two parts of the system can no longer talk to each other.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Broken, loose, or corroded communication harness between display and power module", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed power module or display board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Connector backed out due to vibration", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power the fridge down fully, then check that the ribbon/communication connectors at the display and module are fully seated (with power removed).", "Inspect the harness for chafing or moisture damage where it routes behind the fridge." ], "reset_steps": [ "E03 is an ERROR-type fault that must be reset manually: press and hold the control/encoder button for about 2 seconds until a beep confirms the reset.", "If the connection problem remains, the code will return immediately." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always disconnect AC and DC before reseating connectors; never work on the rear of the fridge with the gas supply open.", "call_tech_when": "Dometic specifies contacting an authorized service point for E03; if reseating connectors does not clear it, the module or display likely needs replacement.", "caveats": "Reset clears the display but does not fix a genuine wiring or board failure.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Error type fault messages", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E03 (no connection power module/display)" }, { "title": "Dometic Fridge Error Codes (10-series chart)", "publisher": "Refrigerator Solutions", "url": "https://refrigeratorsolutions.com/dometic-fridge-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E03 — no connection between power module and display" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e03/", "meaning": "Das Display/Bedienpanel hat die Kommunikation mit dem Leistungsmodul (Elektronikplatine) verloren; die beiden Teile des Systems können nicht mehr miteinander kommunizieren." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E07", "code_slug": "e07", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e07/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The fridge is not producing cooling while running on gas (LP). The cooling unit is not generating cold even though gas mode is selected and burning.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Vehicle/fridge parked off-level, stalling the absorption cooling cycle", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Weak or partially blocked gas burner / restricted LP flow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Aging or partially blocked cooling unit (boiler not heating properly)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the RV is level; absorption fridges stop cooling when tilted, so re-level and allow several hours to recover.", "Confirm the burner is lighting and the flame looks strong and blue (only with the gas system known safe).", "Make sure the LP supply is on and other gas appliances work." ], "reset_steps": [ "E07 is an ERROR-type fault: after correcting level/gas, press and hold the control/encoder button about 2 seconds until a beep to reset.", "If it returns after resetting, deeper diagnosis is needed." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane hazard: if you smell gas, do not reset or operate the fridge — shut off the LP supply, ventilate, and have the system checked. Never test the burner near open flame or sparks.", "call_tech_when": "If the fridge stays off-cooling on gas after re-leveling and a reset, or the burner/cooling unit is suspect, contact a qualified RV refrigeration technician.", "caveats": "Dometic's listed first step is to check that the unit is level; persistent E07 after that points to gas or cooling-unit faults.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Error type fault messages", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E07 (no cooling in gas mode)" }, { "title": "Dometic RMD10.5 Operating manual (Troubleshooting)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-rmd-10-5t_83047.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.1 — No cooling in gas mode; check tilt/level, reset, contact service" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e07/", "meaning": "Der Kühlschrank erzeugt im Gasbetrieb (LP) keine Kühlung. Die Kühleinheit erzeugt keine Kälte, obwohl der Gasbetrieb gewählt ist und brennt." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E08", "code_slug": "e08", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e08/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The fridge is not producing cooling while running on AC (230 V/120 V mains) power; the AC heating element is selected but no cold is being generated.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Unit parked off-level, stalling the absorption cycle", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed or open AC heating element", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Tired or partially blocked cooling unit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the RV is level and allow several hours after re-leveling for cooling to resume.", "Confirm AC power is actually present and the fridge is set to AC mode.", "Check that the unit was not switched out of AC due to low mains voltage (see W05)." ], "reset_steps": [ "E08 is an ERROR-type fault: correct the level/power issue, then press and hold the control/encoder button about 2 seconds until a beep to reset.", "A returning code after reset indicates a hardware fault." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "AC heating elements run at mains voltage — disconnect AC power before any inspection behind the fridge to avoid electric shock.", "call_tech_when": "If the fridge is level, has good AC power, and still shows E08 after a reset, have the AC element and cooling unit tested by a technician.", "caveats": "Distinct from W05 (no/low AC voltage): E08 means AC is present but no cold is produced.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Error type fault messages", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E08 (no cooling in AC mode)" }, { "title": "Dometic Fridge Error Codes (10-series chart)", "publisher": "Refrigerator Solutions", "url": "https://refrigeratorsolutions.com/dometic-fridge-error-codes/", "manualRef": "E08 — no cooling capacity in AC mode; check level, reset, service if repeats" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e08/", "meaning": "Der Kühlschrank erzeugt im AC-Betrieb (230 V/120 V Netz) keine Kühlung; das AC-Heizelement ist gewählt, aber es wird keine Kälte erzeugt." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E09", "code_slug": "e09", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e09/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The fridge is not producing cooling while running on DC (12 V) power; DC mode is active but no cold is being generated.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Unit off-level, stalling the absorption cooling cycle", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed DC heating element or its wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Insufficient DC current/voltage to heat the element fully", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is level and allow several hours for recovery after correcting it.", "Note that DC mode alone usually only maintains, not pulls down, temperature — verify expectations.", "Check the DC supply and connections to the fridge for voltage drop." ], "reset_steps": [ "E09 is an ERROR-type fault: after correcting the level/supply, press and hold the control/encoder button about 2 seconds until a beep to reset.", "If it reappears, a heating element or supply fault is likely." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect the DC supply before inspecting heater wiring; high DC currents can cause burns and arcing at loose connections.", "call_tech_when": "Persistent E09 with the unit level and adequate DC supply means the DC element or module should be tested by a technician.", "caveats": "Reported as 'no cooling power in DC mode' across manual revisions.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Error type fault messages (page 36)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E09 (no cooling in DC mode)" }, { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual (Troubleshooting reference)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1954522/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=29", "manualRef": "E09 — no cooling power in DC mode; check tilt, reset, contact service" } ], "confidence": 0.83, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e09/", "meaning": "Der Kühlschrank erzeugt im DC-Betrieb (12 V) keine Kühlung; der DC-Betrieb ist aktiv, aber es wird keine Kälte erzeugt." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E12", "code_slug": "e12", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e12/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The control electronics ran a self-test on the gas valve and the test failed, so gas operation is disabled as a safety measure.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Faulty gas valve or its solenoid coil", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open or shorted wiring to the gas valve", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed power module gas-valve driver", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the fault by viewing the code; with gas disabled, switch the fridge to AC or DC so food stays cold.", "Visually check (power and gas off) that the gas valve connector is seated and undamaged.", "Do not attempt to force gas operation while this code is active." ], "reset_steps": [ "E12 is an ERROR-type fault: press and hold the control/encoder button about 2 seconds until a beep to reset.", "If the valve test fails again, gas mode will stay locked out." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a gas-safety lockout. Do not bypass it. If you smell propane, shut off the LP supply, ventilate, and avoid any ignition source until inspected by a professional.", "call_tech_when": "Dometic directs you to contact customer service if E12 recurs; a failed gas valve or module driver must be diagnosed and replaced by a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Some references label E12 'gas valve check error' vs 'gas valve test error'; same condition.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Error type fault messages", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E12 (gas valve check/test error)" }, { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual (Troubleshooting reference)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1954522/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=29", "manualRef": "E12 — gas valve check error; gas operation not possible, reset, contact service" } ], "confidence": 0.84, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e12/", "meaning": "Die Steuerelektronik hat einen Selbsttest am Gasventil durchgeführt, und der Test ist fehlgeschlagen, sodass der Gasbetrieb als Sicherheitsmaßnahme deaktiviert wird." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E50", "code_slug": "e50", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/e50/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Gas ignition lockout: the burner failed to light after three automatic ignition attempts, so the controller locks out gas operation.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Empty or closed LP cylinder / no gas reaching the burner", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air in the gas line after running the tank empty or after service", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Clogged burner jet/orifice, weak igniter, or fouled electrode", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the propane cylinder has gas and the valve is open; confirm another LP appliance lights.", "Purge air from the line by running a stovetop burner briefly (if equipped and safe), then retry.", "Inspect the burner area for spider webs or debris (only with gas off and once cool)." ], "reset_steps": [ "E50 is an ERROR-type fault: after restoring gas, press and hold the control/encoder button about 2 seconds until a beep to reset and allow re-ignition.", "If it relocks after three more attempts, stop and investigate the gas path." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane lockout exists for safety. Never repeatedly force re-ignition if you smell gas — shut off the LP supply, ventilate, and keep ignition sources away.", "call_tech_when": "If the cylinder has gas, the line is purged, and E50 still locks out, have the burner, orifice, and igniter serviced by a qualified RV gas technician.", "caveats": "Related higher gas-fault codes exist on the same board — E51 (gas lock, internal power-module error), E52 (ground contact/short on the gas valve), and E53 (ground contact/short on the ignition electrode) — all of which require service if they recur.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Error code reference (gas lock after 3 ignition attempts)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=36", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Error type fault messages, E50 (gas lock after 3 ignition attempts — empty cylinder, replace/reset)" }, { "title": "Dometic RMD10.5 Operating manual (Troubleshooting — gas lock)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-rmd-10-5t_83047.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.1 — Gas lock after 3 ignition attempts; gas cylinder empty, replace, reset" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/e50/", "meaning": "Gaszündungssperre: Der Brenner hat nach drei automatischen Zündversuchen nicht gezündet, sodass die Steuerung den Gasbetrieb sperrt." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Er 11", "code_slug": "er-11", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/er-11/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The control board has detected an open circuit in the freezer-plate defrost heater. In other words, the board can no longer 'see' the freezer evaporator/plate defrost heating element, so it flags it as faulty. The code flashes on the LED panel alternating with the 'CALL' message.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blown control-board fuse F4 (7.5 A) that feeds the freezer-plate defrost heater", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or disconnected harness at terminal J5 (heater feed) on the lower control board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose ground cable to the heating element at terminal J1 on the lower control board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose/incorrect connections in the inter-connection box inside the freezer compartment", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown internal overheat (thermal) fuse inside the defrost heating element (element must be replaced)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Open/broken defrost heating element itself (element must be replaced)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the model is a 2-way/electric absorption fridge that uses the Er-code system (e.g. NDA1402/NDE1402 and similar); read the exact code off the LED panel.", "With the fridge OFF and 120V unplugged and 12V disconnected, visually inspect the wiring harness and connectors at the back of the fridge and at the freezer inter-connection box for loose, corroded, or unseated plugs.", "Check that the 12V supply to the fridge is healthy (at least ~10.5–12V); weak DC can cause defrost/heater faults and related warnings.", "After reseating connectors, restore power and see whether the code clears (some faults only re-test at power-on, so an OFF/ON cycle is needed)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the refrigerator OFF at the control panel.", "Disconnect 120V AC (unplug) and the 12V DC supply (battery disconnect or pull the fridge fuse) for several minutes.", "Reconnect power and turn the fridge back ON; the board re-runs its self-test.", "If the open-circuit fault is gone, the code will not reappear; if it returns, the heater circuit or board needs service." ], "affected_models": [ "NDA1402", "NDE1402", "NEA1402", "other Dometic 2-way/electric absorption models that display 'Er' codes with a freezer-plate defrost heater" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "These are gas-absorption fridges. Before working at the rear of the unit, turn it off and isolate both 120V AC and the 12V DC supply; the defrost heater and AC heater run on line voltage. If you ever smell propane/gas near the fridge or its vent, stop, shut off the gas supply, ventilate, and do not switch anything electrical on or off until it clears.", "call_tech_when": "If the F4 fuse is intact and all connectors are clean and tight but Er 11 returns, the defrost heating element (possibly with a blown internal thermal fuse) or the lower control board is defective — have a qualified RV refrigeration tech test and replace it.", "caveats": "Confirmed from the official Dometic NDA1402/NDE1402 diagnostic service manual. Important: Dometic reuses two-digit numbers across different control generations, so on newer platforms (RM10, RMD, RUA/RUC, etc.) a code '11' may NOT mean the freezer-plate defrost heater. Verify against the manual for your exact model and serial. This record applies to the 'Er'-code generation with separate freezer/fresh-food defrost heaters and fans.", "sources": [ { "title": "Diagnostic Service Manual — Dometic NDA1402 & NDE1402 Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic, LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 11.2 Error Codes, p. 34 (\"Er 11\": open circuit to the freezer-plate defrost heater; fuse F4, terminals J5/J1)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/er-11/", "meaning": "Die Steuerplatine hat einen offenen Stromkreis in der Abtauheizung der Gefrierplatte erkannt. Mit anderen Worten: Die Platine kann das Heizelement zum Abtauen des Gefrierverdampfers/der Gefrierplatte nicht mehr „erkennen“ und meldet es daher als defekt. Der Code blinkt auf dem LED-Panel abwechselnd mit der Meldung „CALL“." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Er 14", "code_slug": "er-14", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/er-14/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The control board has detected an open circuit to the fan in the freezer compartment — it can no longer detect the freezer (frozen-food) circulation fan, so it flags the fan circuit as faulty. The code flashes on the LED panel alternating with 'CALL'. (Note: a freezer fan that is physically blocked by ice, rather than electrically open, is reported separately as 'Er 02'.)", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose wires in the harness connected to connector P5 on the lower control board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose/incorrect connections in the inter-connection box inside the freezer compartment", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong polarization (reversed wiring) at the fan terminal block", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Faulty freezer fan motor", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Read the exact code off the LED panel and confirm it is Er 14 (freezer fan), not Er 15 (fresh-food fan) or Er 02 (freezer fan blocked by ice).", "With the fridge OFF and both 120V and 12V isolated, check the freezer fan harness and the P5 connector area / freezer inter-connection box for loose or unseated wires.", "Look inside the freezer fan housing for ice buildup or debris that could jam the fan (a jammed-but-connected fan usually shows as Er 02, but ice can also damage wiring).", "Verify the 12V DC supply to the fridge is adequate, then power-cycle and see if the code clears." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the refrigerator OFF.", "Disconnect 120V AC and the 12V DC supply for several minutes.", "Reconnect and turn ON so the board re-runs its self-test.", "If the fan circuit reads continuous again, the code clears; if Er 14 returns, the fan or board needs service." ], "affected_models": [ "NDA1402", "NDE1402", "NEA1402", "other Dometic 2-way/electric absorption models that display 'Er' codes and have a powered freezer-compartment fan" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Isolate both 120V AC and 12V DC before working at the rear of the fridge. These are propane-absorption appliances: if you smell gas at any time near the unit or its roof/side vent, stop work, shut off the propane supply, ventilate, and avoid creating any electrical spark until the smell is gone.", "call_tech_when": "If the P5/harness connections are confirmed tight and correctly polarized but Er 14 persists, the freezer fan motor or the lower control board is likely defective and should be tested/replaced by a qualified RV refrigeration technician.", "caveats": "Confirmed from the official Dometic NDA1402/NDE1402 diagnostic service manual. As with code 11, the numeric '14' is generation-specific: some popular online sources describe code 14 on newer Dometic models (e.g. RM10) as a display/power-board communication or battery fault, which is a DIFFERENT control system. Match the code to your exact model's manual. On the RM10 platform the documented fix for a displayed '14' is to install new batteries in the control and press the knob 2 seconds to reset.", "sources": [ { "title": "Diagnostic Service Manual — Dometic NDA1402 & NDE1402 Refrigerators", "publisher": "Dometic, LLC", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 11.2 Error Codes, p. 34 (\"Er 14\": open circuit to the fan in the freezer compartment; harness connector P5). Also Section 11.1 status message \"Er 02\" = freezer fan blocked." } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/er-14/", "meaning": "Die Steuerplatine hat einen offenen Stromkreis zum Lüfter im Gefrierfach erkannt — sie kann den Umluftlüfter des Gefrierfachs (Tiefkühlfach) nicht mehr erkennen und meldet daher den Lüfterkreis als defekt. Der Code blinkt auf dem LED-Panel abwechselnd mit „CALL“. (Hinweis: Ein Gefrierlüfter, der physisch durch Eis blockiert ist statt elektrisch unterbrochen, wird separat als „Er 02“ gemeldet.)" } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "W01", "code_slug": "w01", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/w01/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The temperature sensor inside the fridge compartment is faulty (open, shorted, or reading out of range), so the control board can no longer measure cabinet temperature reliably.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed or disconnected cabinet temperature sensor (thermistor) in the food compartment", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged or pinched sensor wiring / loose connector at the power module", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty power/control module input", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the code by viewing the warning ID on the display; W-type warnings clear on their own once the fault is gone.", "Visually check that the sensor and its lead inside the cabinet are not crushed by stored food or a shifted shelf.", "Power-cycle the fridge at the control panel to see if the reading recovers." ], "reset_steps": [ "W01 is a WARNING-type fault: it resets automatically once the underlying sensor issue is corrected.", "If the fridge has the TFT/encoder panel and the code persists, you can clear a latched message by pressing and briefly holding the control/encoder button until a beep, then re-evaluate." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT", "RMD10.5XS" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "No gas hazard with this code, but disconnect the fridge from AC (and ideally DC) before probing any internal wiring to avoid shock and shorts.", "call_tech_when": "Sensor replacement and module diagnosis require service tools and the correct part; Dometic's own guidance is to contact an authorized service point for W01.", "caveats": "Dometic assigns W01 specifically to the refrigerator-compartment sensor; a separate sensor fault for other zones is not part of the published 10-series warning table.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Troubleshooting (Warning type fault messages)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=35", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Troubleshooting, Warning type fault messages table, W01" }, { "title": "Dometic RMD10.5XS Absorption refrigerator Operating manual (Troubleshooting)", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-rmd-10-5t_83047.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.1 Fault messages — Warning type, defective refrigerator-compartment temperature sensor" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/w01/", "meaning": "Der Temperatursensor im Kühlfach ist defekt (offen, kurzgeschlossen oder außerhalb des Messbereichs), sodass die Steuerplatine die Schranktemperatur nicht mehr zuverlässig messen kann." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "W10", "code_slug": "w10", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/refrigerator/w10/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Either the DC supply voltage is too high (over about 16 V), or the unit has entered 'tank stop' mode in which gas operation is temporarily blocked for roughly 15 minutes.", "causes": [ { "cause": "DC input above ~16 V (e.g. charger/converter or solar controller overvoltage)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Tank-stop safety timer active after a gas-mode event, blocking gas for ~15 minutes", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty charging source or voltage regulator feeding the fridge", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the DC voltage reaching the fridge; if it is above 16 V, reduce or correct the charging source.", "If gas operation is blocked, simply wait about 15 minutes or switch to AC/DC mode in the meantime.", "Check converter/solar controller settings for an overvoltage condition." ], "reset_steps": [ "W10 is a WARNING-type fault and clears automatically once DC voltage returns to range or the 15-minute tank-stop window expires.", "No manual reset is normally required; correcting the voltage is the fix." ], "affected_models": [ "RMD10.5", "RMD10.5S", "RMD10.5T", "RMD10.5X", "RMD10.5XS", "RMD10.5XT" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overvoltage can damage 12 V appliances; do not bypass the protection. When working on gas, ensure the propane supply is off and the area is ventilated before any service.", "call_tech_when": "If DC voltage is in spec but W10 keeps appearing, or gas remains blocked well beyond the timer, have the charging system and power module checked.", "caveats": "Some manual revisions split the DC-overvoltage and tank-stop conditions; both appear under the W10 row in the consolidated 10-series warning table, so the displayed meaning can vary slightly by firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 10 Series Operating Manual — Troubleshooting (Warning type fault messages)", "publisher": "Dometic / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1887047/Dometic-10-Series.html?page=35", "manualRef": "10 Series OPM, Warning type fault messages, W10 (DC overvoltage / tank stop)" }, { "title": "Dometic RMD10.5 Absorption refrigerator Operating manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-rmd-10-5t_83047.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 7.1 — DC overvoltage (>16 V); tank stop mode blocks gas 15 min" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/refrigerator/w10/", "meaning": "Entweder ist die DC-Versorgungsspannung zu hoch (über etwa 16 V), oder das Gerät hat den Modus „Tankstopp“ aktiviert, in dem der Gasbetrieb für etwa 15 Minuten vorübergehend blockiert ist." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Cassette tank 3/4 full", "code_slug": "cassette-tank-three-quarter", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/toilet/cassette-tank-three-quarter/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On the Saneo control panel, the 'cassette tank 3/4 full' display lights to give advance warning that the waste cassette is about three-quarters full. The toilet still works; this is a prompt to plan emptying soon.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Cassette has filled to roughly three-quarters capacity", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Float partially obstructed giving an early reading", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Plan to empty the cassette before it reaches full.", "If the reading seems premature with a known-empty cassette, check that the float moves freely (no high-pressure cleaning)." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; the display clears after the cassette is emptied." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Saneo CS", "Dometic Saneo C", "Dometic Saneo B", "Dometic Saneo cassette toilet series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Wear gloves during emptying. Disconnect power before servicing the control-panel fuse. No high-voltage hazard on these 12V panels.", "call_tech_when": "The 3/4 or full displays behave erratically after the float and wiring are checked, indicating a sensor or panel issue.", "caveats": "Advance-warning level indicator, not a fault. Saneo is a cassette (not macerating) toilet but uses an electric indicator panel.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic Saneo Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic GmbH", "url": "https://files.ekmcdn.com/olearys/resources/other/saneo-operating-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Description of control panel — item 4 'Cassette tank 3/4 full' display" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/toilet/cassette-tank-three-quarter/", "meaning": "Auf dem Saneo-Bedienpanel leuchtet die Anzeige „Kassettentank 3/4 voll“ auf, um vorab zu warnen, dass die Abwasserkassette etwa zu drei Vierteln voll ist. Die Toilette funktioniert weiterhin; dies ist eine Aufforderung, das Entleeren bald einzuplanen." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Cassette tank full", "code_slug": "cassette-tank-full", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/toilet/cassette-tank-full/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Saneo control panel, the 'cassette tank full' display lights to show the removable waste cassette has reached its full level and must be emptied. The toilet should not continue to be used until the cassette is emptied to avoid overfilling.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Waste cassette is full and needs emptying", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Float in the cassette stuck or jammed by toilet paper giving a false full/level reading", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Remove and empty the cassette at an approved disposal point.", "If the indicator is wrong, check that the level float in the cassette is free — clean it by hand (never with a high-pressure cleaner, which can damage the float).", "Check the electrical terminals/connections to the level sensor." ], "reset_steps": [ "Empty the cassette and reinsert it; the level display updates automatically.", "If still wrong, free the float and recheck the panel." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic Saneo CS", "Dometic Saneo C", "Dometic Saneo B", "Dometic Saneo BW/CW/BS/CS/BLP/CLP cassette toilets" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Wear gloves when handling the cassette. Do not use a high-pressure cleaner inside the cassette — it can damage the float sensor. No high-voltage hazard, but the panel is electrically powered; disconnect power before changing the panel fuse.", "call_tech_when": "The full indicator stays on after the cassette is emptied and the float is confirmed free, indicating a sensor or panel fault.", "caveats": "The Saneo is a cassette toilet with an electric level/flush panel, not a macerating toilet. Included because it is a Dometic electric RV toilet with panel indicator codes.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic Saneo Operating Manual", "publisher": "Dometic GmbH", "url": "https://files.ekmcdn.com/olearys/resources/other/saneo-operating-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Description of control panel — item 5 'Cassette tank full' display; Troubleshooting — float stuck/jammed remedy" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/toilet/cassette-tank-full/", "meaning": "Auf dem Saneo-Bedienpanel leuchtet die Anzeige „Kassettentank voll“ auf, um anzuzeigen, dass die herausnehmbare Abwasserkassette ihren Füllstand erreicht hat und entleert werden muss. Die Toilette sollte nicht weiter benutzt werden, bis die Kassette entleert ist, um ein Überfüllen zu vermeiden." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Flashing green Power light", "code_slug": "flashing-green-power", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/toilet/flashing-green-power/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On the Dometic flush switch / MasterFlush status panel the green Power On light is normally steady when power is present. A momentary flashing green indicates the flush mode is being changed (for example, toggling between Normal flush and Dry Bowl flush by holding the flush switch about five seconds). It is a confirmation, not a fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Flush mode is being switched between Normal and Dry Bowl (flush button held ~5 seconds)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Flush button inadvertently held long enough to enter mode change", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "If you did not intend to change modes, simply repeat the press-and-hold to toggle back to the desired mode.", "Verify the bowl is refilling as expected for the mode you want (Normal adds water after flush; Dry Bowl does not)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Press and hold the flush switch about five seconds until the green light flashes, then release, to switch flush mode back to the desired setting." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic 8700 series MasterFlush", "Dometic MasterFlush macerator toilets with Dometic flush switch / status panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a normal control indication and requires no electrical work. If you ever open the panel, disconnect power first.", "call_tech_when": "The green light flashes continuously and the toilet will not flush, or modes will not stay set, suggesting a switch or control-module fault.", "caveats": "A brief flash during mode change is normal. A continuously flashing or non-responsive green light is not documented as a normal state and points to a fault.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 8700 Series MasterFlush Toilet Operation Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-masterflush-8743-macerator-toilet_62762.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 6.2.3 / 6.3.3 Indicator lights — steady green = power on, momentary flashing green = flush mode changing; Dry Bowl mode change procedure" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/toilet/flashing-green-power/", "meaning": "Am Dometic-Spülschalter / MasterFlush-Statusfeld leuchtet die grüne Power-On-Anzeige normalerweise dauerhaft, wenn Strom anliegt. Ein kurzes grünes Blinken zeigt an, dass der Spülmodus gewechselt wird (zum Beispiel das Umschalten zwischen Normalspülung und Trockenspülung durch etwa fünf Sekunden langes Halten des Spülschalters). Es ist eine Bestätigung, kein Fehler." } }, { "brand": "dometic", "brand_name": "Dometic", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Red Full Tank light", "code_slug": "red-full-tank-light", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/dometic/toilet/red-full-tank-light/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Dometic flush switch / MasterFlush status panel, the red Full Tank light is illuminated. When connected to a holding-tank monitor, this signals the tank is full. The control module then automatically cuts electrical power to the toilet so it cannot be flushed, preventing the holding tank from being overfilled.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Holding tank is full and the level system has shut down toilet power", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Tank level sensor or its wiring faulty, giving a false full reading on an empty tank", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sensor probes fouled by waste or scale", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the actual tank level before assuming a sensor fault.", "If the tank is empty but the red light persists, suspect a fouled or failing tank level sensor or its wiring.", "Dump and flush the tank, then recheck.", "Inspect the flush switch and control-module wiring for loose or corroded connections." ], "reset_steps": [ "Empty the holding tank.", "If the light does not clear, turn off the toilet's circuit breaker briefly, then restore power to reset the control module." ], "affected_models": [ "Dometic 8700 series MasterFlush", "Dometic MasterFlush macerator toilets with Dometic flush switch / DFT panel", "Dometic 8100/8200/8300 series with Dometic flush switch and tank monitor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect power at the breaker before any wiring or pump work — the macerator pump has sharp blades that can start without warning. House battery current is high; avoid shorting terminals. Do not use bleach or solvents in the system.", "call_tech_when": "The red light remains after the tank is confirmed empty, cleaned, and the sensor wiring checked, or the toilet stays powered down after a reset.", "caveats": "The red light/auto shut-off only works when the toilet is wired to a holding-tank monitoring system; on installs without it the light may not function.", "sources": [ { "title": "Dometic 8700 Series MasterFlush Toilet Operation Manual", "publisher": "Dometic", "url": "https://media.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-masterflush-8743-macerator-toilet_62762.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 6.2.3 / 6.3.3 Indicator lights — red FULL TANK light; automatic full-tank shut-down; Troubleshooting item 3a" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/dometic/toilet/red-full-tank-light/", "meaning": "Am Dometic-Spülschalter / MasterFlush-Statusfeld leuchtet die rote Full-Tank-Anzeige (Tank voll). Bei Verbindung mit einem Tankfüllstandsmonitor signalisiert dies, dass der Tank voll ist. Das Steuermodul unterbricht dann automatisch die Stromzufuhr zur Toilette, sodass sie nicht gespült werden kann, um ein Überfüllen des Fäkalientanks zu verhindern." } }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "All LEDs fast flash — overheating", "code_slug": "controller-overheating", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/controller-overheating/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "When every indicator (PV, battery and the battery-capacity level LEDs) flashes fast at the same time, the controller's internal heat sink is over-temperature. Above ~85 C it cuts both PV input and load output, resuming once it cools below ~75 C.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Mounting location with poor airflow or blocked heat-sink fins", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Operating near full rated charge current in high ambient heat or direct sun", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dust/debris on the heat sink reducing cooling", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the controller is mounted vertically with clear space above and below for convection", "Clear dust and debris from the heat-sink fins", "Check ambient temperature and direct sun exposure on the unit; relocate or shade if it runs hot" ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the controller cool — operation resumes automatically once the internal temperature falls below ~75 C", "Improve ventilation/mounting so it does not recur; note charging power is automatically reduced starting around 81 C before full shutdown at 85 C" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not block the heat sink or enclose the controller in a sealed box. A chronically overheating controller near batteries or wiring is a fire risk — fix the cooling, do not defeat the protection.", "call_tech_when": "If the controller overheats at low load with good ventilation and normal ambient temperature, it may be faulty — have it inspected.", "caveats": "On Triron DB1/DS-module displays the same condition is shown as the PV/BATT (orange) and battery-capacity LEDs fast flashing; the exact set of LEDs depends on which display module is fitted.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 — 'All LED indicators fast flashing at the same time = Controller Overheating'; Section 6.1/6.2 (cut input & output above 85 C, resume below 75 C; power derate from 81 C)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.1 — Device overheating: stops above 85 C, resumes below 75 C; power reduction begins at 81 C" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Battery red slow flash — over-temp", "code_slug": "over-temperature", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/over-temperature/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The battery indicator slowly flashing red signals a battery temperature fault: with a temperature sensor connected, the controller has detected the battery too hot (above ~65 C) or, for lithium, too cold (below the low-temperature threshold), and has stopped charging/discharging.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery overheating — high ambient temperature, poor ventilation, or heavy charge/discharge", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Lithium battery below its low-temperature charging threshold (cold weather)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty or poorly mounted remote temperature sensor giving a bad reading", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Feel/measure the battery temperature and check the battery compartment ventilation", "For lithium banks in cold conditions, confirm the temperature is below the low-temperature protection threshold", "Verify the remote temperature sensor is properly attached to the battery and its cable is intact" ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the cause: improve cooling/ventilation for an overheating battery, or warm a cold lithium battery", "The controller resumes automatically once battery temperature returns to the safe range (overheat clears below ~55 C)" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A hot battery can vent flammable/toxic gas or, with lithium, enter thermal runaway. Do not charge a visibly swollen, leaking, or very hot battery; ventilate and let it cool before investigating.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery runs hot under normal conditions, or the fault persists with a correctly mounted sensor and normal battery temperature, have the battery and sensor checked.", "caveats": "Battery temperature protection only works when the optional remote temperature sensor is connected; without it, the controller cannot detect battery temperature. With lead-acid batteries there is no low-temperature protection.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 — Battery LED Red Slowly Flashing (1Hz) = Battery Overheating / Low temperature; Section 6.1 Protection (battery stops above 65 C, resumes below 55 C)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.1 protections — Battery overheating: stops above 65 C, resumes below 55 C; Lithium low-temperature protection (LTPT default 0 C)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Battery red solid — over-discharged", "code_slug": "over-discharged", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/over-discharged/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A steady red battery indicator means the battery is over-discharged: voltage has dropped to the Low Voltage Disconnect point, so the controller has cut its load output to protect the battery.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loads drew the battery down faster than the panels could recharge it (undersized array or several cloudy days)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Battery aged or undersized for the load demand", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Little or no PV charging (shading, disconnected/dirty panels) over an extended period", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage; it should be at or below the Low Voltage Disconnect setting", "Check that the PV is charging during daylight (charging indicator should show charging)", "Review your daily load vs. available solar — reduce loads or add panel/battery capacity if chronically undersized" ], "reset_steps": [ "Allow the battery to recharge (via solar, or an external charger) until voltage rises to or above the Low Voltage Reconnect (LVR) point", "The controller-connected load output recovers automatically once LVR is reached" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Repeated deep over-discharge permanently damages lead-acid and lithium batteries. Use an appropriate external charger; do not bypass the low-voltage cutoff to keep loads running.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery will not hold charge or voltage collapses immediately under load after recharging, the battery is likely failed — have it tested/replaced.", "caveats": "Loads wired directly to the battery (not through the controller load terminals) are not disconnected and can continue to drain the battery.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 — Battery LED Red On Solid = Over discharged; Section 6.2 Troubleshooting (Battery over discharged, recover at LVR)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.2 Troubleshooting — Battery over discharged: load recovers at/above LVR" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Green LED fast flash — battery", "code_slug": "battery-indicator", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/battery-indicator/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The battery-status indicator flashing green at about 4 Hz means battery over-voltage: battery voltage has reached the Over Voltage Disconnect (OVD) threshold, so the controller stops charging to prevent overcharge damage.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Charging voltage parameters set too high for the installed battery type (wrong battery type selected)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Another charge source (alternator, AC charger) raising battery voltage above OVD at the same time", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty or unbalanced battery cell reading high, or loose/corroded battery sense connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery terminal voltage and compare to the controller's OVD setting for the selected battery type", "Verify the battery type setting matches your actual battery (sealed/gel/flooded/LiFePO4/etc.)", "Check for a second charger feeding the same bank and check battery cable connections for tightness/corrosion" ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the charge: temporarily disconnect the PV so battery voltage falls below the Over Voltage Reconnect threshold", "Correct the battery-type or custom voltage settings to match the battery", "Charging resumes automatically once voltage drops below the reconnect threshold" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series (Tracer1206AN/2206AN and larger)", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP MPPT series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overcharging batteries can cause venting, heat, or (lead-acid) explosive hydrogen gas. Ventilate the battery area, avoid sparks/flames, and wear eye protection when working near batteries.", "call_tech_when": "If battery voltage repeatedly exceeds OVD with correct settings and a single charge source, or a battery is hot/swollen, stop charging and consult a technician — the battery or controller may be faulty.", "caveats": "On the Tracer-AN LCD/icon models this fault appears as a blinking battery frame plus blinking fault icon rather than a colored LED.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 LED indicators — Battery LED: Green Fast Flashing (4Hz) = Over voltage; Section 6.2 Troubleshooting (Battery over voltage)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer1206AN/Tracer2206AN (Tracer-AN series)", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.2 Troubleshooting — Battery over voltage: battery frame blink, fault icon blink; check if battery voltage > OVD and disconnect PV" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Green LED fast flash — charging", "code_slug": "charging-indicator", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/charging-indicator/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The PV/charging indicator flashing green at about 4 times per second signals PV over-voltage: the solar array's open-circuit voltage is too high for the controller's maximum PV input rating, so charging is blocked to protect the unit.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many panels wired in series, pushing array Voc above the controller's max PV input voltage (e.g. above 100 V on a 100 V-rated model), especially in cold weather when Voc rises", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Cold ambient temperature temporarily raising panel open-circuit voltage past the limit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong panel/string configuration for the controller model", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the PV disconnect open, measure the array open-circuit voltage (Voc) with a multimeter and compare it to the controller's rated max PV input voltage on the label", "Account for cold weather: panel Voc rises as temperature drops, so check on a cold morning", "Confirm your series/parallel wiring matches the controller spec (reduce panels in series or move some strings to parallel if Voc is too high)" ], "reset_steps": [ "Open the PV breaker/disconnect to remove the over-voltage condition", "Reconfigure the array so Voc stays safely below the rated max PV input voltage", "Re-close the PV disconnect; the indicator should return to normal charging once voltage is in range" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series (Triron1206N, Triron2206N, Triron3206N, Triron4206N, Triron4210N, etc.)", "EPEVER Tracer-AN, Tracer-BN, Tracer-BP and similar Tracer MPPT series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "PV strings carry dangerous DC voltage even in low light. Always open the PV disconnect before touching wiring, never disconnect PV under load (DC arcing), and use a meter rated for the array voltage.", "call_tech_when": "If Voc is within the rated limit but the over-voltage indication persists, or if the controller was exposed to a high-voltage event, have it inspected — internal input damage may have occurred.", "caveats": "On dual/triple-LED display modules the same 4 Hz green flash on the BATTERY-status line means battery over-voltage instead of PV over-voltage — read which indicator (PV vs battery) is flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 LED indicators — Charging LED: Green Fast Flashing (4Hz) = PV Over voltage" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Load + fault — short circuit", "code_slug": "load-short-circuit", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/load-short-circuit/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The load and fault indicators blinking signal a load-side short circuit. When load current reaches roughly four times the rated load current, the controller cuts the load output to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Short circuit or pinched/chafed wire on the load output wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty appliance/device connected to the load terminals", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Water ingress or corrosion bridging the load terminals", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Disconnect all loads, then inspect load wiring for damaged insulation, pinches, or terminals touching", "Check each connected device individually for an internal fault before reconnecting", "Look for moisture/corrosion at the load terminals" ], "reset_steps": [ "Find and clear the short before re-energizing", "The output auto-retries five times (after about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 s); to restart the recovery, press the Load button, restart the controller, or wait for a night-to-day transition (night longer than ~3 hours)" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A short circuit can cause severe heat, melted insulation, and fire. De-energize and physically find and repair the fault before clearing it — do not just keep resetting the controller into a short.", "call_tech_when": "If no external short can be found yet the controller keeps tripping load short-circuit, the controller's load output may be faulty — have it checked.", "caveats": "Only applies to loads connected through the controller's LOAD terminals; loads wired directly to the battery are not protected. Larger Tracer models may not have load output terminals at all.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 6.1 Protection — Load Short Circuit (≥4x rated load current, 5 auto-retries, clear via Load button/restart/night-to-day)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 3.2 error codes (Load failure: load short circuit) and Section 4.1/4.2 (load short-circuit protection, four times rated current)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Load blinking — overload", "code_slug": "load-overload", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/load-overload/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The load indicator blinking (load off) signals a load overload: connected load current exceeded about 1.05x the controller's rated load current, so the output was switched off after a time delay.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many devices or too high a current draw on the load terminals", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A device with a high inrush/startup surge tripping the overload", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Partial short or degraded wiring raising current draw", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Add up the current of all devices on the load terminals and compare to the controller's rated load current", "Remove some loads or move high-draw devices to a direct, separately-fused battery connection", "Check for surge-heavy devices (motors, pumps) that exceed the rating at startup" ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the connected load below the rated current", "The output auto-retries five times (delays of about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 s); to restart recovery, press the Load button, restart the controller, or wait for a night-to-day transition (night longer than ~3 hours)" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overloaded wiring overheats. Make sure load wiring and any inline fuse are sized for the actual current, and do not bypass the controller's overload protection to run oversized loads.", "call_tech_when": "If overload trips with loads clearly under the rating, have the controller and wiring checked.", "caveats": "Cut-off timing scales with how far over the rating the load is (e.g. faster shutdown at higher overload). Only applies to controller LOAD-terminal output.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 6.1 Protection — Load Overload (≥1.05x rated load current, 5 auto-retries, clear via Load button/restart/night-to-day)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.1/4.2 — Overload protection: cut-off delays of 50/30/10/2 s at 1.02-1.05x, 1.05-1.25x, 1.25-1.35x, 1.35-1.5x rated; reduce loads, restart or clear fault" } ], "confidence": 0.86, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "epever", "brand_name": "EPEVER", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "No charge in daylight", "code_slug": "no-charge-daylight", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/epever/solar-controller/no-charge-daylight/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Two related no-charge indications: the green PV/charging indicator OFF while the sun is on the panels points to a PV array disconnection or wiring fault, and a steady orange battery indicator means the battery is in an under-voltage state.", "causes": [ { "cause": "PV array disconnected, loose, or wrongly wired (no PV reaching the controller)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown PV fuse / open PV breaker, or fully shaded/covered panels", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Battery drawn down to under-voltage (orange indicator) faster than solar can recharge it", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "In daylight, confirm the PV indicator behavior matches conditions; green off in good sun suggests a PV problem (note: green slowly flashing simply means night/no PV voltage)", "With the PV disconnect open, measure array voltage at the controller's PV terminals to confirm power is present and connections are tight", "Check the PV fuse/breaker and inspect for loose or reversed PV wiring", "Measure battery voltage if the orange under-voltage indicator is on" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore and tighten the PV connection / replace a blown PV fuse so charging can resume", "Let the battery recharge to bring it out of under-voltage", "For a controller that will not power up at all, ensure the battery provides at least the minimum activation voltage (about 9 V on Triron, about 8 V on Tracer-AN)" ], "affected_models": [ "EPEVER Triron N series", "EPEVER Tracer-AN series", "EPEVER Tracer-BN/BP series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "PV wiring is live and energized DC whenever light hits the panels. Open the PV disconnect before working on connections, never break a PV connection under load, and use a correctly rated meter.", "call_tech_when": "If PV voltage is present and connections are good but the controller still shows no charging in full sun, the input stage may be faulty — have it inspected.", "caveats": "On single-LED Tracer-AN icon displays the 'no charge / under voltage' states are shown via the LCD icons rather than a separate orange LED. A slowly flashing green PV LED is normal at night and is not a fault.", "sources": [ { "title": "EPEVER TRIRON N Series Modular MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/upload/cert/file/1811/TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2.pdf", "manualRef": "TRIRON-SMS-EL-V1.2, Section 4.1 (Charging LED OFF = no PV/night or PV connection problem; Battery LED Orange On Solid = Under voltage); Section 6.2 Troubleshooting (charging LED off in daytime = PV disconnection; controller needs at least 9 V to activate)" }, { "title": "MPPT Solar Charge Controller User Manual, Tracer-AN series", "publisher": "EPEVER (Huizhou EPEVER Technology Co., Ltd.)", "url": "https://www.epever.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6.pdf", "manualRef": "Tracer-AN-Manual-EN-V2.6, Section 4.2 Troubleshooting — PV array open-circuit (confirm PV connection correct and tight); controller needs at least 8 V battery voltage to activate" } ], "confidence": 0.83, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "012", "code_slug": "012", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/012/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overheating detected by software: the outlet (heat-exchanger) temperature exceeded the software-defined limit, even though the hardware overheat sensor has not yet tripped. The control unit reacts to protect the heat exchanger.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Reduced air throughput from partially blocked intake or outlet ducting", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Outlet/overheat temperature sensor reading high or out of spec", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Cable fault between sensor and control unit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check warm-air intake and outlet for any restriction and clear it.", "Confirm ducting is not kinked or excessively restricted.", "Let the unit cool and restart, watching whether the fault returns." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the heater cool fully.", "Switch off and back on at the controller.", "If it persists, the outlet sensor should be tested by an installer." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Treat any overheat warning seriously and restore full airflow before reuse. Do not bypass temperature sensors. If exhaust odour ever enters the living space, stop the heater and ventilate, due to carbon monoxide risk.", "call_tech_when": "If the fault recurs after airflow is confirmed clear, or if a faulty outlet sensor is suspected.", "caveats": "Newer controllers report this as P000115. Distinct from hardware overheat (017).", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Airtronic fault code list, code 012" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Overheating detection, P000115 (012)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/012/", "meaning": "Softwareseitig erkannte Überhitzung: Die Auslasstemperatur (am Wärmetauscher) hat den softwareseitig festgelegten Grenzwert überschritten, obwohl der hardwareseitige Überhitzungssensor noch nicht ausgelöst hat. Das Steuergerät reagiert, um den Wärmetauscher zu schützen." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "017", "code_slug": "017", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/017/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Overheat shutdown. The temperature measured at the overheat sensor has exceeded the maximum hardware threshold (roughly 150 C / above what the sensor can safely read). The control unit shuts the heater down to prevent damage and fire, and may lock out after repeated events.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked or restricted hot-air outlet / ducting causing heat to back up into the unit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blocked or restricted hot-air intake (recirculation air) starving the blower", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty or out-of-spec overheat/outlet temperature sensor", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed blower motor reducing airflow over the heat exchanger", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the heater off and cool, confirm nothing is covering or blocking the warm-air outlet grille and the air intake.", "Check that hot-air ducting is not crushed, kinked, or excessively long/restricted.", "Make sure any closable outlet vents are open so air can flow freely.", "Let the unit fully cool, then restart and watch whether it overheats again." ], "reset_steps": [ "Allow the heater to cool completely.", "Turn the heater off, then on again at the controller.", "If the unit is locked out after repeated overheats, the lockout must be cleared with a diagnostic tool (e.g. EasyStart Pro / digi-diagnostic) by an installer." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheating is a genuine fire risk. Never operate the heater with blocked air paths and never bypass the overheat sensor. These are sealed-combustion diesel/petrol heaters; if you smell exhaust fumes inside the cabin, shut the heater down immediately and ventilate, as combustion gases contain carbon monoxide which is colourless, odourless and deadly.", "call_tech_when": "If the heater overheats again after airflow is confirmed clear, if it has locked out, or if the overheat sensor is suspected faulty.", "caveats": "On newer EasyStart/CAN controllers this appears as P000116. Threshold value is approximate and varies by firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Airtronic fault code list, code 017" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Overheating detection, P000116 (017)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/017/", "meaning": "Überhitzungsabschaltung. Die am Überhitzungssensor gemessene Temperatur hat den maximalen Hardware-Schwellwert überschritten (etwa 150 °C / über dem, was der Sensor sicher erfassen kann). Das Steuergerät schaltet die Heizung ab, um Schäden und Brand zu verhindern, und kann nach wiederholten Ereignissen in eine Sperre gehen." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "019", "code_slug": "019", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/019/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Glow plug (glow pin) energy too low: the glow plug is not delivering enough heat energy to reliably ignite the fuel, even though its circuit is electrically intact. Often a sign of a worn or aged glow plug.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Worn or aged glow plug with degraded heating performance", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "High resistance in glow plug wiring or connectors", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low supply voltage limiting glow energy", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check battery voltage is healthy (a weak battery reduces glow energy).", "Inspect glow plug wiring and connectors for corrosion or looseness.", "Note whether starts are slow, smoky, or failing, which points to a tired glow plug." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and on to retry a start.", "If the code returns, the glow plug typically needs testing/replacement by an installer." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The glow plug runs very hot, only service it with the heater cold and disconnected. A poor-igniting heater can produce excess smoke and unburned fuel; ensure the exhaust is clear to avoid carbon-monoxide risk.", "call_tech_when": "If the code recurs after checking voltage and wiring, the glow plug likely needs replacement.", "caveats": "Newer controllers show P000213.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Code 19, insufficient glow pin energy for fuel ignition" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Glow plug issues, P000213 (019)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/019/", "meaning": "Glühstift-Energie zu niedrig: Der Glühstift liefert nicht genug Heizenergie, um den Kraftstoff zuverlässig zu zünden, obwohl sein Stromkreis elektrisch intakt ist. Oft ein Zeichen für einen verschlissenen oder gealterten Glühstift." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "020 / 021 / 022", "code_slug": "020-022", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/020-022/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Glow plug electrical fault: 020 = open circuit / interruption (broken plug or disconnected wire), 021 = short circuit to ground, 022 = short circuit to battery positive. The control unit detects an abnormal glow plug circuit and stops.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed glow plug (open element) for code 020", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged, chafed, or pinched glow plug wiring causing a short (021/022)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose glow plug connector", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the glow plug connector and wiring for damage, corrosion, or chafing.", "Confirm the connector is fully seated.", "Look for wiring pinched against metal that could cause a short." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and on to retry.", "If the circuit fault persists, the glow plug and its wiring need testing/replacement by an installer." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always work on the glow plug circuit with the heater off and cold. Do not apply full battery voltage directly to the glow plug when testing, as this can damage it. Faulty ignition can lead to unburned fuel, keep the exhaust clear (carbon-monoxide hazard).", "call_tech_when": "If wiring and connector look good but the fault persists, the glow plug or control unit needs professional diagnosis.", "caveats": "Newer controllers map these to P000210/P000211/P000212.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Codes 20 (open), 21 (short to ground), 22 (short to battery+)" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Glow plug issues, P000210/P000211/P000212 (020/021/022)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/020-022/", "meaning": "Glühstift-Elektrikfehler: 020 = Unterbrechung / offener Stromkreis (defekter Stift oder abgetrennte Leitung), 021 = Kurzschluss nach Masse, 022 = Kurzschluss nach Batterie-Plus. Das Steuergerät erkennt einen anormalen Glühstift-Stromkreis und stoppt." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "047 / 048", "code_slug": "047-048", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/047-048/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Metering (fuel dosing) pump fault: 047 = short circuit / overload on the pump output, 048 = open circuit / interruption (pump or its wiring disconnected). Without a working metering pump the heater cannot dose fuel and will not run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Damaged or disconnected metering pump wiring/connector (048)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Shorted pump winding or chafed wiring (047)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed metering pump", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Locate the metering (dosing) pump on the fuel line and check its connector and wiring for damage or corrosion.", "Confirm the connector is fully seated.", "Listen for the characteristic ticking of the pump during a start attempt; silence suggests an open circuit." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off and on to retry.", "If the fault persists, the pump and wiring must be tested by an installer." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The metering pump handles fuel, only work on it with the heater cold and away from ignition sources, and catch any fuel spillage. A non-dosing or over-dosing pump can cause hard starts and unburned fuel, so keep the exhaust clear to avoid carbon-monoxide risk.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring and connector are good but the pump does not tick or the fault persists.", "caveats": "Newer CAN controllers show P000200/P000201. A related code 049 covers short to battery+ / transistor fault.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Code 47 (fuel pump short/overload), 48 (fuel pump open circuit)" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Fuel system & metering pump, P000201 (047) short, P000200 (048) interruption" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/047-048/", "meaning": "Dosierpumpenfehler: 047 = Kurzschluss / Überlast am Pumpenausgang, 048 = Unterbrechung / offener Stromkreis (Pumpe oder ihre Verkabelung abgetrennt). Ohne funktionierende Dosierpumpe kann die Heizung keinen Kraftstoff dosieren und läuft nicht." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "050", "code_slug": "050", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/050/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Operating lockout: too many unsuccessful start attempts. After repeated failed starts (the heater could not establish a stable flame), the control unit locks the heater out and will not attempt to start again until the lockout is cleared with a diagnostic tool.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of fuel or insufficient fuel delivery (air in line, clogged filter/strainer)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Restricted combustion-air intake or blocked exhaust", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Worn glow plug / glow plug screen, or heavy carbon build-up in the burner", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak or failing metering (fuel) pump", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the fuel tank is not empty and the heater's fuel pickup is below the tank's usable level.", "Inspect the combustion-air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe for blockage, kinks, ice, or mud-dauber nests.", "Check the in-line fuel filter/strainer for clogging if accessible.", "Listen for the metering pump ticking during a start attempt." ], "reset_steps": [ "The lockout (code 050) cannot be cleared by a simple power cycle on most units; it requires a diagnostic/controller unlock (EasyStart Pro: Settings then Error memory; or a digi-diagnostic tool).", "After clearing the underlying fault, unlock the control unit and restart." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Repeated failed starts can dump unburned fuel into the combustion chamber. Never force repeated manual restarts. A blocked exhaust is a carbon-monoxide hazard; verify the exhaust is clear before running. Diesel and petrol are flammable, work with the heater cold and away from ignition sources.", "call_tech_when": "If fuel and air paths are confirmed good but the heater still locks out, or if you cannot clear the lockout.", "caveats": "Sources differ on the exact failed-start count before lockout (commonly cited around 10; some older references mention a higher cumulative count). Newer controllers show P00012B.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Code 50, ECU locks after consecutive failed start attempts" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Flame cutout events, P00012B (050) operating lockout" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/050/", "meaning": "Betriebssperre: zu viele erfolglose Startversuche. Nach wiederholten Fehlstarts (die Heizung konnte keine stabile Flamme aufbauen) sperrt das Steuergerät die Heizung und versucht keinen Start mehr, bis die Sperre mit einem Diagnosegerät aufgehoben wird." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "052", "code_slug": "052", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/052/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Unsuccessful start (no flame established). The heater attempted to start but did not reach a stable flame within the start sequence. A single occurrence triggers a restart; repeated occurrences lead to lockout (code 050).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Insufficient fuel, air in the fuel line, or clogged fuel filter", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Restricted combustion-air or exhaust path", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Worn glow plug or carbon-fouled burner", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify fuel level and that fuel is reaching the pump (listen for pump ticking).", "Check combustion-air intake and exhaust for obstruction.", "Inspect the fuel filter/strainer if accessible." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the heater off and on to allow a fresh start attempt.", "If it repeatedly fails and locks out (050), clear the lockout with a diagnostic tool after fixing the cause." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not keep forcing restarts; unburned fuel can accumulate. Confirm the exhaust is clear to avoid carbon-monoxide build-up. Handle fuel only with the unit cold.", "call_tech_when": "If start failures continue after fuel and air paths are confirmed good.", "caveats": "Reported as P00012A on newer CAN controllers. Confirmed by one primary-style reference; older D2/D4 print manuals use the 052 number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Flame cutout events, P00012A (052) unsuccessful starting process" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/052/", "meaning": "Erfolgloser Start (keine Flamme aufgebaut). Die Heizung hat einen Start versucht, aber innerhalb der Startsequenz keine stabile Flamme erreicht. Ein einzelnes Auftreten löst einen Neustart aus; wiederholtes Auftreten führt zur Sperre (Code 050)." } }, { "brand": "espar", "brand_name": "Espar (Eberspächer)", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "053 / 054 / 055 / 056", "code_slug": "053-056", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/espar/furnace/053-056/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Flame-out (flame cut-out) during operation: a stable flame was established but then lost during running, grouped by the power stage at which it failed (053 = lower power range up through 056 = full power / from start). The heater shuts down because the flame sensor no longer detects combustion.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Running low on fuel or intermittent fuel delivery (air in line, clogging filter)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Restricted combustion-air intake or partially blocked exhaust", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Carbon build-up in the burner / worn glow plug screen", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak metering pump or flame sensor reading low", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check fuel level and that the pickup still draws fuel as the tank empties.", "Inspect combustion-air intake and exhaust for obstruction.", "Check/clean or replace the fuel filter if accessible.", "Run the heater and note at which output level it cuts out." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the heater off and on to restart.", "If flame-out repeats and the unit locks out, clear the lockout with a diagnostic tool after correcting the fuel/air issue." ], "affected_models": [ "Airtronic D2", "Airtronic D4", "Airtronic D4S", "Airtronic B4" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A flame that keeps cutting out can leave unburned fuel in the chamber. Ensure the exhaust is fully clear before retrying, since blockage causes carbon-monoxide danger. Fuel work only with the heater cold.", "call_tech_when": "If flame-out continues after fuel filter, fuel supply, air intake and exhaust are confirmed good, or if the metering pump or flame sensor is suspected.", "caveats": "Exact power-band-to-number mapping varies slightly between firmware/sources (e.g. 057 also appears for the 0-25% band on newer units). The grouped meaning (flame-out by power stage) is consistent.", "sources": [ { "title": "Eberspacher Airtronic Fault Codes", "publisher": "Le Tonkinois (independent Eberspacher reference)", "url": "https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/fault_codes.html", "manualRef": "Codes 53-56, flame cutout during various power stages" }, { "title": "Find and clear Espar Airtronic fault codes and Eberspacher Hydronic fault codes", "publisher": "Heatso", "url": "https://www.heatso.com/espar-airtronic-fault-codes-and-eberspacher-hydronic-fault-codes/", "manualRef": "Flame cutout events, P000125-P000128 (057/053/054/055) by power range" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/espar/furnace/053-056/", "meaning": "Flammabriss (Flammenabschaltung) im Betrieb: Eine stabile Flamme wurde aufgebaut, ging aber während des Laufs verloren, gruppiert nach der Leistungsstufe, bei der sie versagte (053 = unterer Leistungsbereich bis 056 = Volllast / ab Start). Die Heizung schaltet ab, weil der Flammsensor keine Verbrennung mehr erkennt." } }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "microwave", "appliance_name": "Microwave", "code": "No display / dead (blown fuse)", "code_slug": "no-display", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/microwave/no-display/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Furrion RV over-the-range convection microwaves (FMCM15 series) do NOT show numeric error codes; their manual uses a problem/solution table. The most common hard fault is a completely dead unit with no display, typically caused by a blown internal fuse, very often triggered by a failing door interlock switch.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed or misaligned door interlock/monitor switch shorting and blowing the internal fuse", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown internal line fuse (located at the upper-right rear of the FMCM15SS; unit must be removed to access)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loss of 120V AC supply: tripped breaker, GFCI, or no shore/generator power", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or disconnected power cord/connection behind the unit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is on 120V AC (shore or generator) and the microwave's breaker/GFCI is not tripped.", "Test another 120V outlet or appliance on the same circuit to confirm power is present.", "If you have access and are qualified, with power disconnected, check the internal fuse for continuity with a multimeter (no continuity = blown).", "Inspect the door and latch: a door that must be bumped or lifted to register as closed points to a failing interlock switch.", "Reseat the power connection behind the unit if accessible." ], "reset_steps": [ "Unplug or switch off the microwave's circuit and wait a few minutes.", "Restore power and try again.", "If the fuse blew, replacing it without fixing a faulty door switch will usually blow the new fuse again, so address the door switch first." ], "affected_models": [ "FMCM15-SS", "FMCM15-BL", "FMCM15SS", "Furrion over-the-range RV convection microwave" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Microwaves contain a high-voltage capacitor and magnetron that can hold a lethal charge even when unplugged. Do NOT open the cabinet or probe internal components unless you are trained to discharge the capacitor. Replacing the internal fuse or door switches generally means removing the unit and opening it, which is high-voltage work best left to a qualified technician.", "call_tech_when": "Call a qualified appliance/RV technician for any internal fuse, door-switch, or magnetron work, or if the unit repeatedly blows fuses. Replace the whole unit if internal repair is not economical.", "caveats": "The Furrion FMCM15 manual uses a problem/solution table and lists NO numeric error codes. 'Unit won't start' causes are compiled from the OEM manual plus etrailer and owner-forum diagnostics. Fuse location confirmed specifically for FMCM15SS.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting and Fuse Location on Furrion Over the Range RV Convection Microwave", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-682356.html", "manualRef": "Internal fuse location (upper-right rear, FMCM15SS) and removal requirement" }, { "title": "Furrion FMCM15-SS Convection Microwave Troubleshooting/repair help", "publisher": "Grand Design Owners Forums", "url": "https://www.gdrvowners.com/forum/operation/appliances/72938-furrion-fmcm15-ss-convention-microwave-troubleshooting-repair-help", "manualRef": "Door interlock switch as common cause of blown fuse" }, { "title": "Furrion FMCM15-BL Instruction Manual, Troubleshooting", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165085/Furrion-Fmcm15-Bl.html?page=30", "manualRef": "OEM problem/solution troubleshooting table (no error codes)" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "microwave", "appliance_name": "Microwave", "code": "Runs but won't heat", "code_slug": "not-heating", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/microwave/not-heating/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The Furrion FMCM15 microwave appears to operate (light on, turntable turning, timer counting) but produces no heat. With no error-code system, this is diagnosed by symptom. It almost always indicates a failed magnetron or its high-voltage supply, though a heavy convection cycle can also trip a thermal overload.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed magnetron (the component that generates microwave energy)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed high-voltage diode, capacitor, or transformer feeding the magnetron", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Thermal cutout/overload tripped after extended high-temperature convection use", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Wrong mode selected (set to convection-only or low power instead of microwave heating)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm you selected a microwave (not convection-only) mode and an adequate power level and time.", "Run the standard cup-of-water test: microwave ~1 cup of water about 2 minutes and check if it warms.", "If the unit was just run at high convection temperature for a long time, let it cool fully and retry to rule out a thermal trip.", "Try a full power cycle (off at the breaker for a few minutes, then on)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch off the microwave's circuit for several minutes to clear a thermal trip or controller glitch.", "Restore power, select a microwave heating mode at full power, and rerun the water test." ], "affected_models": [ "FMCM15-SS", "FMCM15-BL", "FMCM15SS", "Furrion over-the-range RV convection microwave" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A no-heat microwave often needs magnetron or high-voltage diagnosis. The high-voltage capacitor can store a lethal charge even after unplugging. Do not open the cabinet or test internal parts unless trained to safely discharge it. Never run the microwave empty while testing.", "call_tech_when": "Call a qualified technician if the water test confirms no heating, since magnetron and high-voltage repairs are dangerous. For many RV owners, replacing the unit is more practical than repair.", "caveats": "Furrion FMCM15 has NO numeric error codes; diagnosis is symptom-based per the OEM manual's problem/solution format. Magnetron-failure attribution is from reputable troubleshooting sources and owner reports, not a coded manual entry.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion Microwave Not Heating? Expert Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "JustAnswer", "url": "https://www.justanswer.com/appliance/m9f41-furrion-microwave-rv-acts.html", "manualRef": "No-heat with spinning turntable points to magnetron failure" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting A Non-Heating Furrion Over The Range RV Convection Microwave", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-689617.html", "manualRef": "Non-heating diagnosis for FMCM15 convection microwave" }, { "title": "Furrion FMCM15-BL Instruction Manual, Troubleshooting", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165085/Furrion-Fmcm15-Bl.html?page=30", "manualRef": "OEM problem/solution table (no error codes); cookware/power-level guidance" } ], "confidence": 0.78, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "range", "appliance_name": "Stove / Range", "code": "No spark at burner", "code_slug": "no-spark", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/range/no-spark/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Furrion glass-top gas cooktops use a spark ignition system, not a display panel. There are no numeric error codes. This 'symptom code' covers the most common ignition fault: you turn the knob and hear clicking but no spark appears at the burner, or you hear nothing at all. The spark electrode is firing to ground across a small gap next to the burner head; if the gap, wiring, ground path, or ignitor module is bad, no spark jumps and the burner will not light.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Spark electrode tip cracked, dirty, greasy, or corroded so the spark cannot jump the gap", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Electrode-to-burner gap too large or misaligned (electrode bent away from the burner)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, pinched, or disconnected ignition wire under the cooktop (a wire commonly works loose at the burner)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Top burner plates not grounded through their mounting clips (clips dirty/greasy), breaking the spark ground path", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed spark ignitor module or, on battery-ignited models, a dead or corroded ignition battery", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm propane is on, the regulator is open, and at least one other burner lights, to rule out a gas-supply issue versus an ignition issue.", "With the cooktop cool and gas OFF, inspect the ceramic spark electrode next to the burner for cracks, food, or grease and gently clean it with a dry toothbrush or soft cloth.", "Check that the bare electrode rod sits close to the burner head so a spark can jump the gap; do not force or sharply bend it.", "Reseat the burner cap and top plate firmly and make sure the metal mounting clips are clean so the burner is properly grounded.", "Lift the cooktop (per the manual) and check that each burner's ignition wire is connected and its insulation is not cut or pinched.", "On battery-ignition models, replace the ignitor battery; if the old battery leaked, clean corrosion with a baking-soda-and-water paste and dry fully before installing a new one." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn all burner knobs fully OFF and shut the propane supply at the tank.", "Clean/reseat the electrode, burner cap, and top plate as above.", "Reopen propane, purge air by letting the line settle, then turn one knob to LIGHT/HIGH and click to ignite.", "If a battery ignitor was replaced, test each burner in turn." ], "affected_models": [ "FSRE17", "FSRE21", "FSRE17SA-BL", "FSRE21SA-BL", "Furrion 17\" and 21\" 3-burner all-glass gas ranges/cooktops" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane is heavier than air and pools low where it can ignite explosively. If you smell gas, do NOT operate the ignitor or any switch: shut off the tank, ventilate, and leave until the odor clears. Never let a burner click repeatedly with gas flowing and no flame, as raw propane accumulates. Make sure an LP and CO detector is working before using gas appliances in an enclosed RV.", "call_tech_when": "Call a certified RV/LP technician if you smell gas you cannot clear, if no burner sparks after cleaning and checking wiring/ground, if the ignitor module needs replacement and you are not comfortable working under the cooktop, or if any gas line, valve, or regulator is suspect.", "caveats": "Furrion gas cooktops/ranges do NOT have a digital display or numeric fault codes; diagnosis is symptom-based. Causes are compiled from the OEM part listing plus consistent owner/forum and troubleshooting-guide reports, not a single coded manual table.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion stove top doesn't spark", "publisher": "Keystone Forums (RV LIFE Community)", "url": "https://www.keystoneforums.com/threads/furrion-stove-top-doesnt-spark.630032/", "manualRef": "Owner discussion of electrode gap, grounding clips, and wiring" }, { "title": "Adjust sparker on Furrion stovetop", "publisher": "My Grand RV (Grand Design RV Forum)", "url": "https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/adjust-sparker-on-furrion-stovetop.72686/", "manualRef": "Electrode-to-burner gap and spark adjustment" }, { "title": "Furrion Replacement Spark Ignitor for 2-in-1 Range Oven (C-FSRE21SA-020)", "publisher": "Furrion", "url": "https://furrion.com/products/spark-ignitor-for-fsre17-and-fsre21-2021124253", "manualRef": "OEM spark ignitor part for FSRE17/FSRE21" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "range", "appliance_name": "Stove / Range", "code": "Oven lights then goes out", "code_slug": "oven-flame-out", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/range/oven-flame-out/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The oven ignites but the flame extinguishes once the knob is released or shortly after. This is the classic flame-supervision-device (thermocouple) fault: the thermocouple must be heated by the pilot/burner flame to generate the small voltage that holds the gas safety valve open. If it does not get hot enough, the safety valve closes and shuts off gas, which is the device working as intended on a marginal flame.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Thermocouple tip not fully in the flame, bent, or misaligned so it never gets hot enough", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose thermocouple connection nut at the gas valve", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Knob released too soon before the flame and thermocouple stabilized (hold ~5+ seconds)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty pilot/burner producing a weak, lazy flame", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Worn-out thermocouple that no longer generates sufficient voltage", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Inadequate combustion air in a fully closed oven causing flame to weaken", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "When lighting, hold the knob in for at least 5 seconds (longer if needed) so the thermocouple heats before releasing.", "With the oven cool and gas off, gently reposition the thermocouple tip so it sits directly in the pilot/burner flame.", "Snug the thermocouple connection nut at the valve hand-tight plus a slight turn; do not overtighten.", "Clean any soot or grease from the pilot and thermocouple tip.", "Try the first burn with the oven door cracked a few inches for 3-4 minutes to confirm a combustion-air issue.", "Confirm the flame is mostly blue and steady, not yellow and lazy." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the oven OFF and wait a few minutes.", "Relight per the manual, holding the knob in long enough for the flame to stabilize.", "Release slowly; if it drops out, repeat after reseating/cleaning the thermocouple.", "If it still drops out after a clean reseat, plan to replace the thermocouple." ], "affected_models": [ "FSRE17", "FSRE21", "FG21MA1EA", "FS22N20A", "Furrion 2-in-1 range oven", "Furrion built-in gas oven" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The flame-supervision/thermocouple system is a primary gas safety device. Do not bypass, wedge, or defeat it. If the oven keeps shutting off, that may be the safety doing its job, not a nuisance to disable. A faulty safety device that leaves the valve open lets raw propane escape, which is an explosion and CO hazard. Always run a CO/LP detector.", "call_tech_when": "Call an RV/LP technician if the flame will not hold after reseating and cleaning the thermocouple, if the thermocouple needs replacement and you are not comfortable doing it, or if you ever suspect the safety valve is not shutting off gas when the flame is out.", "caveats": "No display codes; symptom-based. Furrion model documentation describes flame supervision generically without a coded fault. Replacement thermocouple availability varies by model.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion RV Oven Problems: Gas Oven Won't Light", "publisher": "Dusty Trail RV", "url": "https://dustytrailrv.com/furrion-rv-oven-troubleshooting", "manualRef": "Thermocouple role, loose nut, bent tip, won't-stay-lit causes" }, { "title": "Furrion oven shuts off intermittently", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://heartlandowners.org/threads/furrion-oven-shuts-off-intermittently.83881/", "manualRef": "Owner reports of intermittent flame-out / thermocouple behavior" }, { "title": "Flame supervision device", "publisher": "Wikipedia", "url": "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_supervision_device", "manualRef": "How thermocouple-based FSD/FFD shuts the gas valve on flame loss" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "range", "appliance_name": "Stove / Range", "code": "Oven won't light", "code_slug": "oven-wont-light", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/range/oven-wont-light/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On Furrion RV gas ovens (the lower oven of a 2-in-1 range or standalone gas oven), the oven uses a manually-lit pilot or spark-lit burner with a thermocouple-type flame safety device, not a fault-code display. This symptom covers the oven failing to ignite at all when the knob is set to LIGHT/PILOT and the ignitor is operated.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or empty propane, closed tank valve, or air in the gas line after running out", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Dirty or sooted pilot/burner assembly blocking gas or flame", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Spark ignitor not firing (cracked electrode, dead ignition battery, or failed module)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown fuse or lost 12V DC supply on electric-start models", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Insufficient combustion air inside a tightly closed oven cavity", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the propane tank is open and not empty, and that stovetop burners light (confirms gas supply).", "After a refill or run-out, expect to hold the knob slightly longer to purge air before the burner catches.", "With the oven cool, inspect the pilot/burner area for soot, grease, or debris and clean gently.", "On electric-start models, check the appliance fuse and 12V DC supply.", "If the oven struggles to catch, leave the oven door open a few inches for the first 3-4 minutes to supply combustion air, as Furrion advises for some models." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the oven knob to OFF and wait several minutes to clear any unburned gas.", "Set the knob to LIGHT/PILOT, operate the ignitor, and keep the knob pushed in for the specified time (about 5 seconds, longer after a refill) until the flame is steady.", "Release slowly; if the flame holds, set the desired temperature." ], "affected_models": [ "FSRE17", "FSRE21", "FG21MA1EA", "FS22N20A", "Furrion Chef Collection built-in gas oven", "Furrion 2-in-1 range oven" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never repeatedly trigger the ignitor while gas flows without ignition, as propane will accumulate in the oven cavity and can flash. If you smell gas, stop, shut off the tank, and ventilate. Operate gas ovens only with adequate ventilation and a working CO/LP detector, since incomplete combustion produces carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "Call an RV/LP technician if the oven will not light after confirming gas, cleaning the pilot, and checking the ignitor; if you suspect a leaking valve; or if the gas smell does not clear.", "caveats": "No numeric/display fault codes exist for Furrion gas ovens; this is symptom-based diagnosis compiled from OEM model references and multiple troubleshooting guides. Exact pilot/spark behavior varies by model (manual pilot vs spark-lit).", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion RV Oven Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Outdoor Miles", "url": "https://outdoormiles.com/furrion-rv-oven-troubleshooting/", "manualRef": "Ignition types, pilot cleaning, fuse, door-open combustion-air tip" }, { "title": "Furrion RV Oven Problems: Gas Oven Won't Light", "publisher": "Dusty Trail RV", "url": "https://dustytrailrv.com/furrion-rv-oven-troubleshooting", "manualRef": "Causes for won't-light: propane, venting, pilot assembly, thermocouple" }, { "title": "Furrion Chef Collection RV Built-In Gas Oven Instruction Manual (FG21MA1EA, FS22N20A)", "publisher": "Furrion / Forest River", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Appliance/Furrion%20-%20Gas%20Oven%20Model%20FG21MA1EA,%20FG21MA1EA,%20FS22N20A%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "OEM gas oven model/instruction reference" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Compressor supply voltage problem: the DC voltage reaching the compressor is outside the normal operating window (too low or too high), so the compressor cannot run reliably.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or sagging 12V house-battery voltage (weak/discharged batteries, undersized wiring, loose connection)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Voltage spike or overvoltage from a converter/charger or solar input", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose DC power connector at the back of the fridge", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing compressor control/inverter board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the fridge running, measure the DC voltage at the house batteries under load; healthy is roughly 12.6V at rest and should stay well above ~10.5V under load.", "Plug the RV into shore power (or run the generator) to recharge the batteries, then see if the code clears.", "Visually inspect the DC power plug behind the fridge for corrosion, looseness, or melted pins (power off first).", "Perform the manufacturer hard reset (remove shore, battery, and solar power) and watch whether E1 returns." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect ALL power to the refrigerator: shore power, the 12V house battery feed, and any solar input.", "Leave it fully de-powered for a few minutes so the control board resets.", "Restore power and let the unit re-initialize; check whether the code clears." ], "affected_models": [ "FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH", "FCR10DCGFA (Arctic 12V family)", "Furrion Arctic 12V 12-volt compressor refrigerators" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a 12V DC appliance. Disconnect power before touching wiring or connectors to avoid shorts and shock; battery banks can deliver very high current and arc. Have battery/DC wiring work done by a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "Battery voltage is confirmed healthy and stable but E1 keeps returning, or you find melted/damaged wiring or a suspected bad control board.", "caveats": "Code letters vary slightly between Furrion 12V models/firmware. The E1 = compressor voltage definition is taken from the official FCR11DCGTA manual; Lippert also publishes an E1 video for the FCR10DCGFA. On some other Furrion appliances (water heaters, A/C/thermostats) E1 means something entirely different, so confirm you are reading a compressor-fridge code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH Instruction Manual — error code table", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3482160/Furrion-Fcr11dcgta-Bg-Lhh.html", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting / Error Code table, p.12 (E1 = compressor voltage too low or too high)" }, { "title": "E1 Error Code on FCR10DCGFA Furrion Refrigerator", "publisher": "Lippert Customer Care Center (LCI)", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/videos/e1-error-code-on-fcr10dcgfa-furrion-refrigerator", "manualRef": "Furrion refrigerator error-code support video, FCR10DCGFA" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Freezer-compartment fan fault: the fan that circulates cold air inside the freezer is reported defective or not running. This is the same failure many owners see reported as 'FF'/'ER FF' on other Furrion 12V units.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed/seized freezer evaporator fan motor (a known weak point on these units)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Fan blade jammed by ice build-up or frost from a defrost/door-seal issue", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Disconnected, pinched, or corroded fan wiring/connector", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Control board not driving or not sensing the fan", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Listen at the freezer for the fan running; a silent freezer fan with a warm fridge section points to this fault.", "Power down and check for heavy ice/frost around the freezer fan area that could block the blade.", "Visually confirm the fan's wiring connector is seated (power off before reaching in).", "Do the hard reset (remove shore, battery, and solar power) and see if the code clears." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect shore power, the 12V battery feed, and solar power to the fridge.", "Wait a few minutes, then restore all power.", "Let the unit restart and check whether the freezer-fan code returns." ], "affected_models": [ "FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH", "FCR10DCGFA", "FCR16ACGFA (reported as FF)", "Furrion Arctic 12V refrigerators (10/16/20 cu ft)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "12V DC appliance — disconnect power before reaching near the fan or wiring to avoid shorting the connector or injuring fingers on the blade.", "call_tech_when": "The fan is confirmed not spinning and is not iced/jammed, or wiring looks fine — the fan motor or board likely needs replacement; contact Lippert/Furrion service.", "caveats": "E2 = defective freezer fan is from the official FCR11DCGTA manual. On the FCR16ACGFA the same freezer-fan failure is widely reported and supported by Lippert as 'FF'/'ER FF'. Exact code letters differ by model; treat E2 and FF as the freezer-fan fault on their respective units.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH Instruction Manual — error code table", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3482160/Furrion-Fcr11dcgta-Bg-Lhh.html", "manualRef": "Error Code table, p.12 (E2 = fan inside freezer compartment is defective)" }, { "title": "E2 Error Code on FCR10DCGFA Furrion Refrigerator", "publisher": "Lippert Customer Care Center (LCI)", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/videos/e2-error-code-on-fcr10dcgfa-furrion-refrigerator", "manualRef": "Furrion refrigerator error-code support video, FCR10DCGFA" }, { "title": "FF Error Code on FCR16ACGFA Furrion Refrigerator", "publisher": "Lippert Customer Care Center (LCI)", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/videos/ff-error-code-on-fcr16acgfa-furrion-refrigerator", "manualRef": "Furrion refrigerator 'FF' (freezer fan) support video, FCR16ACGFA" } ], "confidence": 0.83, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Freezer-compartment temperature sensor fault: the temperature sensor (thermistor) in the freezer is reading out of range or has failed (open/short), so the controller cannot regulate freezer temperature correctly.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed or out-of-range freezer thermistor/temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Disconnected or corroded sensor wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sensor iced over / affected by heavy frost", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Control board sensor input fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note whether the freezer is running too warm, too cold, or cycling oddly, which is consistent with a bad sensor.", "Power down and check for frost/ice around the sensor area in the freezer.", "Perform the hard reset (remove shore, battery, and solar power) to see if it was a transient read." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect shore power, 12V battery, and solar to the fridge.", "Wait a few minutes and reconnect all power.", "Restart and check whether E3 clears." ], "affected_models": [ "FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH", "FCR10DCGFA", "Furrion Arctic 12V refrigerators" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "12V DC appliance — disconnect power before inspecting internal sensor wiring. Sensor/board replacement should be done by qualified service to keep the warranty valid.", "call_tech_when": "The code persists after a reset and basic checks — the freezer thermistor or board typically needs to be tested/replaced by a technician.", "caveats": "Definition from the official FCR11DCGTA manual. Some Furrion 12V models map a refrigerator-side sensor to a different label (e.g. E13 on the FCR11), so verify which compartment sensor the code names on your exact model.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH Instruction Manual — error code table", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3482160/Furrion-Fcr11dcgta-Bg-Lhh.html", "manualRef": "Error Code table, p.12 (E3 = temperature sensor in freezer compartment is defective)" }, { "title": "Furrion Arctic 8 & 10 cu.ft. Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Customer Care Center (LCI)", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008122", "manualRef": "Furrion refrigerator troubleshooting & service manual (CCD-0008122)" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Compressor fault: the compressor is reported stuck/not starting, or the system pressure is too high for it to run. The controller stops the compressor to protect it.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Compressor cannot start (locked rotor) or repeatedly trips out", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High system pressure, often from poor ventilation/airflow around the cooling unit or a very hot install location", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low supply voltage preventing a clean compressor start", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing compressor or compressor inverter/control board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the rear/vent area is not blocked and the fridge is not in an unusually hot space; improve airflow if needed.", "Check that house-battery voltage is healthy and stays up under load.", "Let the unit sit powered off for several minutes (pressures equalize), then do the hard reset and restart.", "Make sure the fridge is roughly level so the compressor and refrigerant behave normally." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect shore power, 12V battery, and solar.", "Leave it off several minutes so internal pressures equalize.", "Reconnect all power and restart; check whether E4 clears." ], "affected_models": [ "FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH", "FCR10DCGFA", "Furrion Arctic 12V refrigerators" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The compressor housing can exceed 175°F (about 80°C) in operation — do not touch it. The sealed system uses flammable R600a (isobutane) refrigerant; never puncture tubing or attempt a recharge, and keep open flames away. Disconnect power before any inspection.", "call_tech_when": "E4 persists after improving ventilation, confirming good voltage, and resetting — the compressor or inverter board likely needs professional diagnosis/replacement.", "caveats": "Meaning from the official FCR11DCGTA manual. R600a refrigerant detail is from the Furrion FCR16/FCR21 user manuals. Code labels differ slightly across the 12V lineup; confirm against your model's manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH Instruction Manual — error code table", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3482160/Furrion-Fcr11dcgta-Bg-Lhh.html", "manualRef": "Error Code table, p.12 (E4 = compressor motor stuck or too high pressure in system)" }, { "title": "E4 Error Code on FCR10DCGFA Furrion Refrigerator (support video)", "publisher": "Lippert Customer Care Center (LCI) / Furrion", "url": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujxuEIQbIn0", "manualRef": "Furrion FCR10DCGFA E4 error-code support video" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "EL / EH", "code_slug": "el-eh", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/el-eh/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery/input-voltage warnings on the 12V models: 'EL' (battery icon flashing slowly) means the DC input voltage is low (roughly 9.1–10.6V); 'EH' (battery icon flashing fast) means the input voltage is too high (above about 17V). Separately, both temperature displays showing '--' is NOT a fault — it means the fridge is in Low Power (off) mode.", "causes": [ { "cause": "EL: discharged/weak house batteries or large voltage drop in the DC supply wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "EH: overvoltage from a charger/converter or solar controller fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "'--' display: someone put the fridge into Low Power mode (held the Function button)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose/corroded DC connections causing voltage to read low", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "For EL: recharge the batteries (connect shore power or run the generator) and recheck.", "For EH: stop charging sources and measure system voltage; if it stays above ~15-17V, have the charging system checked.", "Measure DC voltage right at the fridge connector and at the battery to find any large drop (bad wiring/connection).", "If the display only shows '--' with lights off, press and hold the Function button about 5 seconds to bring the fridge back out of Low Power mode." ], "reset_steps": [ "For '--': press and hold the Function button for ~5 seconds to toggle Low Power mode off (turn the fridge back on).", "For EL/EH: correct the supply voltage (charge batteries / fix overvoltage), then the warning should clear on its own.", "If needed, do a full hard reset by removing shore, battery, and solar power, then restoring it." ], "affected_models": [ "FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH", "FCR16DCASA-BG/-SS (15.6 cu ft Arctic 12V)", "FCR10DCGFA", "Furrion Arctic 12V refrigerators" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "12V DC appliance — sustained overvoltage (EH) can damage electronics; have the RV charging/solar system inspected. Disconnect power before working on DC wiring; battery banks can arc and deliver high current.", "call_tech_when": "EH overvoltage persists with charging sources off, or EL persists with fully charged, healthy batteries — the charging system or fridge board needs professional attention.", "caveats": "EL/EH definitions are from the official FCR11DCGTA manual; voltage thresholds may vary slightly by model. The '--' = Low Power (not an error) detail is confirmed in the FCR16DCASA user manual. A common owner confusion is treating '--' as a fault when it just means the fridge was switched off.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion FCR11DCGTA-BG-LHH Instruction Manual — error code table (EL/EH battery voltage)", "publisher": "Furrion (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3482160/Furrion-Fcr11dcgta-Bg-Lhh.html", "manualRef": "Error Code table, p.12 (EL = input voltage low 9.1-10.6V; EH = input voltage too high >17V)" }, { "title": "Furrion 15.6 cu.ft. Arctic 12V Side-by-Side Refrigerator User Manual (FCR16DCASA)", "publisher": "Furrion (OEM-hosted via Forest River)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Appliance/Furrion%20-%20Refrigerator%20Model%20FCR16DCASA-BG,%20FCR16DCASA-SS%20User%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting / Operation: both displays show '--' = Low Power mode; hold Function 5s to exit" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "furrion", "brand_name": "Furrion", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "FF Er", "code_slug": "ff-er", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/furrion/refrigerator/ff-er/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Freezer-fan fault. The fan that moves cold air from the freezer compartment into the fridge compartment is not turning or not detected, so the controller flags FF / Er. The fridge compartment then fails to cool properly even though the freezer side may still get cold. This is a widely reported failure on Furrion 12V side-by-side and built-in fridges.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed freezer circulation fan (motor seized or wiring open)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Fan blade jammed by ice/frost buildup in the freezer", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Disconnected or corroded fan wiring/connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control board not driving/sensing the fan", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the 'FF' and 'Er' indication on the display and that the fridge side is warm while the freezer is cold.", "Listen/feel for the freezer fan running; check for ice buildup blocking the fan.", "If iced, fully power off and let the unit defrost completely, then restart.", "Try a full hard reset before assuming the fan is dead - owners report many FF/Er cases clear with a proper power-down." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the refrigerator off at the control panel.", "Turn off shore power and disconnect 12V by pulling the fridge fuse / switching off its breaker at the RV main panel.", "Leave it fully disconnected for several minutes up to overnight.", "Restore power and restart; verify the freezer fan runs and FF/Er clears." ], "affected_models": [ "Furrion 12V side-by-side refrigerators", "Furrion Arctic 12V/16 cu. ft. built-in refrigerators", "Furrion 12V built-in DC refrigerators (multiple sizes)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect the fridge's 12V supply before checking the fan or wiring. Do not free a frosted fan with metal tools near the evaporator - let frost melt naturally to avoid puncturing the sealed cooling system.", "call_tech_when": "If FF/Er returns after a hard reset and defrost, or the freezer fan does not spin, the fan or control board likely needs replacement - contact Lippert/Furrion support or the selling dealer (warranty work is dealer-routed).", "caveats": "The FF/Er = freezer-fan failure meaning is consistently reported by multiple independent Furrion owners across several RV forums (Grand Design, Brinkley, Forest River) rather than from an extractable manufacturer manual page. The display sometimes shows 'FF' and 'Er' together; exact rendering varies by model/firmware. Treat as community-verified, not manual-quoted.", "sources": [ { "title": "Furrion 12V Fridge Error Codes FF ER (and Splendide Washer)", "publisher": "My Grand RV - Grand Design RV Forum (RV LIFE community)", "url": "https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/furrion-12v-fridge-error-codes-ff-er-and-splendide-washer-wont-drain.77763/", "manualRef": "Owner thread documenting FF/ER = failed freezer fan" }, { "title": "Furrion Fridge ER FF after hard resets - Model Z Fifth Wheel", "publisher": "Brinkley RV Owners Forum", "url": "https://brinkleyowners.com/t/furrion-fridge-er-ff-after-hard-resets/1278", "manualRef": "Owner thread on ER/FF code and reset behavior" } ], "confidence": 0.6, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E0", "code_slug": "e0", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e0/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The outlet (hot side) water temperature sensor reads an invalid value. The control board sees either an open circuit or a short in the outlet temperature probe and cannot trust the reading, so it faults out.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or disconnected connector at the outlet temperature probe", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged or chafed wiring between the probe and the control board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed outlet temperature probe (out-of-spec resistance, open or shorted)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty control board input", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn the heater off at the wall control and let it cool before inspecting anything.", "Reseat the connector at the outlet temperature probe and at the control board; look for corrosion or bent pins.", "Visually inspect the probe wiring for chafing, pinching, or rodent damage.", "If you have a multimeter, confirm the probe is not reading a dead open or a dead short (a healthy thermistor shows a finite resistance that changes with temperature)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the water heater off at the user control panel.", "Turn off the heater's 12V power for about 10 seconds, then restore it.", "Switch the heater back on and run hot water to see if the code clears." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a gas (LP/propane) appliance. Disconnect 12V power before probing connectors, and never bypass a temperature sensor — doing so can allow dangerously hot or scalding water. If you smell propane, shut off the gas at the tank and do not operate the heater.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating connectors and a power cycle do not clear the code, or you are not comfortable testing the probe with a meter, have a qualified RV technician test/replace the outlet probe or board.", "caveats": "Some sources label E0 simply as the outlet temperature probe fault; the underlying diagnostic is open/short detection. Resistance test values are not reproduced here — consult the manual's resistance table for exact specs.", "sources": [ { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, troubleshooting / fault code section (E0 outlet temperature probe)" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E0 Water Outlet Temperature Probe failure" } ], "confidence": 0.86, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Ignition failure. The igniter sparked but the board never confirmed a flame, so after its trial-for-ignition and purge cycles the heater locks out instead of continuing to spark.", "causes": [ { "cause": "No or low propane (empty/near-empty tank, closed valve, regulator issue)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air in the gas line after running out of propane or after service", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Dirty igniter/burner, or wrong gap between igniter and burner", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty igniter or loose igniter wiring connection", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Low gas inlet pressure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane tank is not empty and the gas valve is fully open.", "Light a stovetop burner or another propane appliance first to purge air from the lines after a refill.", "Check that other propane appliances ignite normally (rules out a system-wide gas/regulator problem).", "Make sure the exhaust/intake on the exterior side of the heater is clear of obstructions and insect nests." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the heater off at the wall control panel.", "Wait about 10 seconds, then turn it back on to clear the lockout.", "Run hot water to trigger a fresh ignition attempt." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane safety: if you smell gas, stop, shut off the tank, and ventilate before retrying. Do not make repeated ignition attempts in quick succession, and never modify the igniter gap or gas pressure yourself beyond visual checks.", "call_tech_when": "If gas is present and lines are purged but you still get E1, or if you suspect low gas pressure or a failed igniter, have an RV tech check gas pressure, the igniter, and the burner.", "caveats": "The manufacturer's ignition sequence explains why E1 sometimes clears on a retry: if the flame signal is lost the control reacts within 0.8 seconds, de-energises the gas valve and starts a fresh purge and ignition routine, making two further attempts. Only after three failed trials does it lock out, and then the unit has to be switched off before it will operate again. In practice the most common cause remains an empty tank or air in the lines after a bottle change.", "sources": [ { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Technical / Service Manual (Model GSWH-2)", "publisher": "Girard Products (hosted by RV Upgrade Store)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Service Manual, fault code E1 Ignition failure (trial for ignition / purge sequence)" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E1 Ignition failure causes" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Flame sensing was interrupted during normal operation. The burner had lit, but the board lost the flame signal mid-run and shut the heater down with a buzzer/lockout.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Intermittent or low propane supply / regulator starving the burner", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air in the gas line", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty or misaligned flame sensor/igniter not reliably reading the flame", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wind or downdraft at the exterior vent blowing out the flame", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Loose flame-sense wiring connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify adequate propane supply and that no other appliance is starving the line.", "Purge air from the gas lines by running another propane appliance first.", "Check the exterior vent for wind exposure, obstructions, or insect nests.", "Confirm wiring to the igniter/flame sensor is seated." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the heater off at the control panel.", "Wait about 10 seconds and turn it back on.", "Run hot water to restart the ignition sequence." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane appliance: address any gas smell first. Do not clean or adjust the flame sensor/igniter with the gas and power on — shut everything off before inspection.", "call_tech_when": "If E2 recurs with confirmed good gas supply, have a technician inspect/clean the flame sensor and igniter and verify gas pressure.", "caveats": "E2 shares its likely causes with E1 (gas supply, air in lines, sensor). The distinction is timing: E1 is no light at startup, E2 is loss of flame after it was running.", "sources": [ { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, E2 flame sensing interrupted during normal operation" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E2 flame sensing interrupted (same causes as E1)" } ], "confidence": 0.89, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The ECO — the over-temperature cut-off thermostat — opened, either before ignition or during operation, and the heater stopped. Girard's technical manual gives the trigger precisely: under normal circumstances this happens when the water temperature at the outlet exceeds 79 °C (174 °F). The cause has to be found and removed before the unit is restarted.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Outlet water temperature climbed past the high-limit (≈140°F / 60°C)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low or no water flow causing heat to build up in the heat exchanger", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "ECO thermostat failed open / out of spec", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded ECO wiring connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Let cool water flow through the heater for a minute or two to bring the heat exchanger temperature down.", "Check that the water filter/screen and plumbing are not restricting flow.", "Confirm the temperature setting is not maxed unnecessarily.", "Inspect the ECO connector for a loose/corroded contact (with power off)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Run cold water through the system to cool it.", "Turn the heater off at the panel, wait ~10 seconds, and turn it back on.", "Restart hot water flow and watch for the code to clear." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The ECO is a safety cut-off that protects against scalding and overheating. Never bypass or jumper it. If it keeps tripping, the root cause (overheating / low flow) must be found and fixed.", "call_tech_when": "If the ECO trips repeatedly even with good water flow and a cooled heater, have a technician test/replace the ECO thermostat and check the heat exchanger.", "caveats": "Earlier versions of this page hedged the threshold at around 140 °F because secondary reproductions of the manual disagreed. The official Girard technical manual resolves it, and the disagreement turns out to have been two different codes being mixed together: E3 is the ECO opening above 79 °C, while E6 is the over-temperature code at 60 °C for 3 seconds. They are two stages of the same protection, not two readings of one number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" }, { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, E3 ECO open before ignition or during normal operation" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E3 ECO open, outlet temperature exceeding ~140°F" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The inlet (cold side) water temperature sensor reads an invalid value while water is flowing. The board detects an open or shorted inlet temperature probe and faults out.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose or disconnected inlet temperature probe connector", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged inlet probe wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed inlet temperature probe (open or shorted)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty control board input", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, reseat the inlet temperature probe connector and check for corrosion.", "Inspect the inlet probe wiring for damage.", "If you have a multimeter, verify the probe is not a dead open or short." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the heater off at the panel.", "Cycle the 12V power off for ~10 seconds, then on.", "Turn the heater back on and run hot water to test." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect 12V power before handling connectors. Do not bypass the sensor; the heater relies on inlet temperature to regulate output and avoid overheating.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating and a power cycle do not clear E4, have a technician test and replace the inlet probe or board.", "caveats": "Described variously as 'water inlet temperature probe failure' and 'input thermistor open when the flow sensor is active' — same fault, slightly different wording across sources.", "sources": [ { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E4 Water Inlet Temperature Probe failure / input thermistor open when flow sensor active" }, { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, inlet temperature probe troubleshooting" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Blower/fan motor fault. The control board commanded the combustion blower to run but received no motor feedback signal, so it cannot safely proceed with combustion.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose or unseated CN1 connector at the control board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Debris or obstruction in the blower assembly preventing it from spinning", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring fault or poor power/ground to the blower", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed blower motor", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board (motor not driven even with flow icon on)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, reseat the CN1 connection at the control board.", "Check the blower assembly for debris, insect nests, or anything jamming the fan.", "Confirm the water-flow icon appears on the control panel when you run hot water (shows the heater is trying to fire).", "Verify good 12V power and ground to the unit." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the heater off at the panel.", "Power-cycle the 12V supply for ~10 seconds.", "Turn it back on and run hot water to retest." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The blower clears combustion gases; never bypass this fault or run the burner without a working blower. Keep power off while clearing debris from the blower.", "call_tech_when": "If CN1 is seated, the blower is clear, and 12V power is good but E5 persists, have a technician determine whether the blower motor or the control board needs replacement.", "caveats": "Wording varies between 'blower motor failure / no motor signal' and a general blower fault; CN1 connector and debris are the manual's first-line checks.", "sources": [ { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, E5 blower fault (check CN1, debris in blower, power/ground)" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 E5 Code (owner discussion citing manual)", "publisher": "Keystone Forums", "url": "https://www.keystoneforums.com/threads/girard-gswh-2-e5-code.637661/", "manualRef": "E5 blower motor / no motor signal troubleshooting per technical manual" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E6", "code_slug": "e6", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e6/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Over-temperature. The outlet water temperature exceeded 60 °C (140 °F) for three seconds and the board shut the burner down. This is the first stage of the heater's temperature protection — the electronic one, acting well before the mechanical ECO.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Air purging through the plumbing causing erratic flow/temperature spikes", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Very low water flow letting outlet temperature spike", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Incoming cold water that is already warm (hot climate / sun-heated hose)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Restricted flow from a clogged inlet screen/filter or aerator", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Run water until all air is purged and flow is steady.", "Increase water flow rate; very low trickle flow can cause temperature overshoot.", "Clean the inlet water screen/filter and faucet aerators.", "Lower the temperature setpoint if it is set very high." ], "reset_steps": [ "Run cold water to cool the heater and stabilize flow.", "Turn the heater off at the panel, wait ~10 seconds, turn it back on.", "Resume hot water flow and confirm the code clears." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Over-temperature is a scald-protection shutdown. Do not defeat it. If outlet water is unexpectedly hot, mix in cold and check the setpoint before using it.", "call_tech_when": "If E6 keeps occurring with steady, adequate flow and a reasonable setpoint, have a technician check the temperature sensors and control board.", "caveats": "The 60 °C for 3 seconds figure is Girard's own, from the technical manual. It matters that it sits below the ECO: E6 is the board intervening at 60 °C, E3 is the ECO thermostat opening above 79 °C. A unit that reaches E6 repeatedly is being asked for more temperature than the flow allows — typically very low flow through the unit — and is not yet at the mechanical safety limit.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" }, { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, E6 over-temperature (outlet water exceeded limit for set seconds)" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E6 Over Temperature; air-in-plumbing and warm inlet water as common causes" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E8", "code_slug": "e8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Air pressure (vacuum) switch fault. The switch that confirms the blower is moving air did not close within about 7 seconds before ignition, or it dropped out for ~2 seconds during operation, so the heater will not fire.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blockage in the air intake or exhaust (insect nest, debris, obstruction)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Weak or failed blower motor not generating enough airflow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Disconnected, pinched, or cracked pressure-switch tubing", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed air pressure switch", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect the exterior intake/exhaust for insect nests, mud daubers, or debris and clear them.", "Check that the blower spins freely and is not obstructed.", "Inspect the small pressure-switch hose/tube for kinks, cracks, or a popped-off connection." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the heater off at the panel.", "Power-cycle the 12V supply for ~10 seconds.", "Turn it back on and run hot water to retest." ], "affected_models": [ "GSWH-2", "2GWHAM" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The air pressure switch is a combustion-safety interlock that prevents firing without proper venting airflow. Never jumper or bypass it — doing so risks incomplete combustion and carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "If the vents are clear and tubing is intact but E8 persists, have a technician test the blower output and the pressure switch.", "caveats": "The timings are the manufacturer's own and are exact, not approximate: the air pressure switch not detected for 7 seconds before ignition, or cut off for 2 seconds during normal operation. Girard names two root causes — a faulty motor, or a blockage in the air supply or the exhaust. On an RV the blockage is the one worth checking first, since the intake and exhaust sit in an exposed sidewall.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" }, { "title": "Girard Products GSWH-2 Technical Manual", "publisher": "Girard Products / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1400855/Girard-Products-Gswh-2.html?page=30", "manualRef": "GSWH-2 Technical Manual, E8 air pressure switch not detected for 7s before ignition / cut-off 2s during operation" }, { "title": "Girard GSWH-2 Tankless Water Heater Technical Manual and Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "Manuals.plus", "url": "https://manuals.plus/m/07df0702c48f20b8a4736f1f623c48a1169f234c34dfd7f88367a8495b832143", "manualRef": "Fault code list, E8 air pressure switch; faulty motor or air/exhaust blockage" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E7", "code_slug": "e7", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e7/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Linear valve failure. The controller detected an open circuit in the linear gas valve control circuit — either before ignition or during normal operation — so it cannot modulate the gas and shuts down. On this heater the gas valve is not a simple on/off solenoid: it modulates to hold the outlet temperature steady, which is why losing it stops the unit outright.", "causes": [ { "cause": "White and red wires on the 8-wire plug loose, corroded or unseated", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Connection behind the firewall disturbed or corroded", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open winding in the linear valve coil — a genuinely failed valve", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the unit powered down, check the white and red wires on the 8-wire plug, and the connections behind the firewall, for a loose or corroded pin.", "Unplug the 8-wire connector and measure the linear valve coil across the white and red wires: Girard gives approximately 85 ohms. An open circuit there is the valve, not the board." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect anything found loose, then power-cycle the heater and run hot water to retry.", "If the 85-ohm reading is absent, the valve is the fault and no reset will clear it." ], "affected_models": [ "Girard GSWH-2", "Girard tankless RV water heaters with a user control panel" ], "related_codes": [ "e1", "e8" ], "safety_note": "Propane appliance: if you smell gas, shut the supply off, ventilate and do not operate any switch. Gas valves are not owner-repairable — Girard states this explicitly in the manual.", "call_tech_when": "The coil measures open or far from 85 ohms — replacing a gas valve is certified-installer work, not an owner repair.", "caveats": "The 85-ohm figure is the manufacturer's own and is measured with the 8-wire connector unplugged — measuring it in circuit reads the board as well and will not give that value. E7 is a wiring-or-valve fault; it is not the same as E1, which is a valve that opened correctly but produced no confirmed flame.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E9", "code_slug": "e9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/e9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Flame sensor fault, and specifically the inverted case: the board sees a flame signal *before* ignition, when there cannot be one. Girard documents this as a short in the flame sensor. The buzzer sounds with this code.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Short in the flame sensor itself", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sensor wire shorted to ground — chafed insulation or a pinched lead", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sensor probe physically touching the burner assembly", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the unit off, look at how the flame sensor probe sits: it must not be resting against the burner or any metalwork.", "Follow the sensor lead for chafing or a pinch point where it could be shorting to the chassis." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct a physical short, then power-cycle the heater.", "A shorted sensor element does not clear with a reset and needs replacing." ], "affected_models": [ "Girard GSWH-2", "Girard tankless RV water heaters with a user control panel" ], "related_codes": [ "e1", "e2" ], "safety_note": "Propane appliance: if you smell gas, shut the supply off, ventilate and do not operate any switch. Gas valves are not owner-repairable — Girard states this explicitly in the manual.", "call_tech_when": "The wiring and probe position are sound and E9 returns — the sensor is failing internally.", "caveats": "Girard's manual documents three separate flame-sense outcomes and they are easy to confuse: E1 is no flame proven during ignition, E2 is a flame lost during normal operation, and E9 is a flame reported before ignition even started. Only E9 points at a short rather than at gas supply.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "girard", "brand_name": "Girard", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "En / End", "code_slug": "en-system-timer", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/girard/water-heater/en-system-timer/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Not a fault. This is the system timer: the board ends the burn after 20 minutes of continuous operation and displays this code on the user control panel. A tankless heater that runs perfectly for twenty minutes and then stops mid-shower is doing exactly what it was designed to do.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Hot water drawn continuously for more than 20 minutes", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A hot tap or an outside shower left running unnoticed", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "A leak or a mixing valve passing water continuously, keeping the heater firing", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check whether the burn really did run 20 minutes without a break — an outside shower or a dripping hot tap keeps the flow sensor active.", "If the timer trips far sooner than 20 minutes of actual use, something is holding flow on: look for a passing mixing valve or a hot-side leak." ], "reset_steps": [ "Soft reset: turn the hot water tap off and then back on. The heater resumes.", "No power cycle and no service action is needed." ], "affected_models": [ "Girard GSWH-2", "Girard tankless RV water heaters with a user control panel" ], "related_codes": [ "e6", "e3" ], "safety_note": "Nothing unsafe is happening here — the timer exists to end a runaway continuous burn, not to report a defect.", "call_tech_when": "The timer trips repeatedly after only a few minutes of real use, which points at unintended continuous flow rather than at the timer.", "caveats": "Girard's own manual is inconsistent about how this appears on the panel: the troubleshooting section says the board shows \"En\", while the code list at the back of the same document calls it \"End\". Both refer to the same 20-minute system timer. It is listed here under both spellings because owners search for what they actually see.", "sources": [ { "title": "Technical Manual — Girard GSWH-2 Demand Tankless Water Heater", "publisher": "Girard Products (Lippert)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/GSWH-2%20Service%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes on User Control Panel; Troubleshooting sections" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-09", "de": null }, { "brand": "go-power", "brand_name": "Go Power", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "Orange solid (overload/short)", "code_slug": "orange-solid-overload", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/go-power/inverter/orange-solid-overload/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Over Load Protection or Short Circuit Protection. While inverting or in AC pass-through, the unit detected an AC overload or output short circuit and shut down. The status LED is solid orange; the alarm sounds five beeps. (Orange slow blink indicates Over Temperature, orange fast blink indicates Under Temperature.)", "causes": [ { "cause": "AC load exceeds the inverter's rated output", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "High surge load from a motor or compressor at startup", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Short circuit in AC output wiring or a faulty appliance", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Reduce or remove AC loads and turn off non-essential appliances", "Start high-surge appliances one at a time", "Inspect AC output wiring and devices for a short circuit", "Confirm total load is within the unit's wattage rating" ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce or remove the load (or clear the short)", "Turn the inverter back on using the on/off switch on the unit or the remote control" ], "affected_models": [ "IC-2000-12", "IC-3000-12", "IC Series Inverter/Charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A short circuit can cause heat and arcing. Disconnect AC loads before inspecting, and treat the 120V AC output as live and potentially lethal. Have AC wiring repaired by a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "If the overload/short fault occurs with little or no load, or you suspect a short inside the AC output wiring, stop using the unit and contact a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Overload/short requires a manual restart via the on/off switch; over-temperature (orange slow blink) instead auto-restarts after cooling.", "sources": [ { "title": "Go Power! IC Series Inverter/Charger Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Go Power! (GP Electric / Dometic)", "url": "https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MANUAL_GP-IC-Series.pdf", "manualRef": "Status LED Indicator table (Orange = Over Load / Short Circuit Protection); IC Series Fault Conditions (Overload); Beep Counts (5 = Short-circuit/OLP)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "go-power", "brand_name": "Go Power", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "Red fast blink (UVP)", "code_slug": "red-fast-blink-uvp", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/go-power/inverter/red-fast-blink-uvp/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Under Voltage Protection / Low Battery. The DC input voltage is below specification (battery reached the Low Battery Cut Out, default 10.5 VDC), so the inverter shuts down to protect the battery. The status LED fast-blinks red; the alarm sounds four beeps.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery bank discharged to the low-voltage cutout", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Undersized DC cabling or loose/corroded connections causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Aged or failing battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown DC fuse or open circuit breaker in the DC path", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Recharge the battery with shore power or a generator", "Check DC fuses, breakers, and cable terminals for breaks or looseness", "Verify DC cable gauge is correct for the run length", "Reduce DC loads while recharging" ], "reset_steps": [ "Supply AC shore power and let the battery recover above the Low Battery Cut In (12.5 VDC); the unit restarts automatically", "Alternatively turn the unit off and on at the on/off switch or remote after the battery recovers" ], "affected_models": [ "IC-2000-12", "IC-3000-12", "IC Series Inverter/Charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Batteries can deliver dangerous short-circuit currents and lead-acid types vent explosive hydrogen. Wear eye protection, avoid sparks near batteries, and do not short DC terminals when checking connections.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery will not hold charge or UVP recurs with a charged, properly cabled battery, have the battery and DC system serviced.", "caveats": "Default LBCO is 10.5 VDC but is adjustable with the GP-ICR-50 remote.", "sources": [ { "title": "Go Power! IC Series Inverter/Charger Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Go Power! (GP Electric / Dometic)", "url": "https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MANUAL_GP-IC-Series.pdf", "manualRef": "Status LED Indicator table (Red Fast Blink = Under Voltage Protection); Low Battery fault; Factory Default LBCO 10.5 VDC; Beep Counts (4 = UVP)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "go-power", "brand_name": "Go Power", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "Red slow blink (OVP)", "code_slug": "red-slow-blink-ovp", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/go-power/inverter/red-slow-blink-ovp/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Over Voltage Protection. The DC input voltage is above specification, so the inverter/charger shuts down to protect itself. The status LED slow-blinks red; the audible alarm sounds three beeps.", "causes": [ { "cause": "External charging source (alternator or solar controller) pushing battery voltage too high", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Out-of-regulation alternator or charge controller", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Incorrect system voltage for the unit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check active charging sources and reduce or disconnect the over-voltage source", "Verify battery system voltage matches the inverter's rating", "Have alternator/charge controller regulation checked" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the input voltage so it returns within specification", "The unit restarts automatically once voltage falls below the High Battery Cut In level (around 14.5 VDC on 12V models)" ], "affected_models": [ "IC-2000-12", "IC-3000-12", "IC Series Inverter/Charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "High DC currents and an over-voltage battery system are hazardous. Disconnect charging sources carefully to avoid arcing, and never short the DC terminals. The unit is not reverse-polarity protected.", "call_tech_when": "If no external charging source is present but OVP keeps tripping, have the DC charging system inspected by a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Go Power IC Series signals faults via status-LED color/blink plus audible beep counts rather than numeric display codes.", "sources": [ { "title": "Go Power! IC Series Inverter/Charger Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Go Power! (GP Electric / Dometic)", "url": "https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MANUAL_GP-IC-Series.pdf", "manualRef": "Status LED Indicator table (Red Slow Blink = Over Voltage Protection) and Beep Counts table (3 = OVP)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "houghton", "brand_name": "Houghton", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E0", "code_slug": "e0", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/houghton/air-conditioner/e0/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The wall thermostat (wall pad) and the rooftop unit have lost their data link and can no longer talk to each other, so the unit will not respond to commands.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or damaged communication wiring between the wall pad and the rooftop unit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Connector unseated at the indoor control box or ceiling assembly", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control board or failed wall pad", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn the unit off at the wall pad and re-seat the control wiring connectors at the ceiling assembly if you can reach them safely.", "Check the wall pad ribbon/communication cable for pinches or breaks.", "Power-cycle the unit at the breaker for about a minute and see if the code clears." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the AC off at the wall pad.", "Turn off the AC circuit breaker (or shore power) for about 60 seconds.", "Restore power and turn the unit back on; the code should clear if communication is restored." ], "affected_models": [ "Houghton Belaire 3400", "Houghton Belaire 3500", "Houghton Belaire 3800", "Houghton Belaire series rooftop AC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always disconnect shore power and turn off the AC breaker before touching any rooftop-unit or ceiling-assembly wiring; 120V mains and roof-level work are both involved.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring looks intact and re-seating connectors plus a power-cycle does not clear E0, the control board or wall pad may have failed and should be diagnosed by a technician.", "caveats": "Houghton documentation is limited in the U.S. market; codes confirmed against the Belaire code table and the equivalent RecPro-rebranded manual. Some older controllers show different displays.", "sources": [ { "title": "Houghton Air Conditioner Problems, Reviews, Manual, Errors", "publisher": "The Camping Advisor", "url": "https://thecampingadvisor.com/houghton-air-conditioner-problems/", "manualRef": "Houghton Belaire error code table (manual p.27)" }, { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted AC Owner's Manual (RecPro rebrand of Houghton-type unit)", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Fault codes displayed on the panel" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "houghton", "brand_name": "Houghton", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/houghton/air-conditioner/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The room-air temperature sensor is reading as out of range, shorted, or open, so the unit cannot measure cabin temperature.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected or damaged room temperature sensor wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed (drifted/shorted/open) room temperature sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control board input fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect the room sensor connector for corrosion or a loose pin.", "Confirm the sensor has not been dislodged from its mounting position." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off and remove power at the breaker for about a minute.", "Restore power; if the sensor connection is good the code should clear." ], "affected_models": [ "Houghton Belaire 3400", "Houghton Belaire 3500", "Houghton Belaire 3800", "Houghton Belaire series rooftop AC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before opening any control or ceiling assembly; these units run on 120V mains.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating the connector does not clear the code, the temperature sensor or control board likely needs replacement by a technician.", "caveats": "On some Houghton units the primary room sensor sits at the wall pad (see E9); E1 refers to the room-temperature sensor circuit.", "sources": [ { "title": "Houghton Air Conditioner Problems, Reviews, Manual, Errors", "publisher": "The Camping Advisor", "url": "https://thecampingadvisor.com/houghton-air-conditioner-problems/", "manualRef": "Houghton Belaire error code table (manual p.27)" }, { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted AC Owner's Manual", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Room temperature sensor fault E1" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "houghton", "brand_name": "Houghton", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/houghton/air-conditioner/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The outdoor (condenser) coil temperature is reading too high, so the unit shuts down or limits operation to protect the compressor from overheating.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked or dirty condenser coil restricting airflow", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Very high ambient temperature combined with continuous heavy load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Condenser fan not running properly", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Outdoor coil temperature sensor reading incorrectly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, check the rooftop unit's condenser coil and shroud for leaves, dust, or debris and clean gently.", "Make sure the rooftop shroud is fitted and air intake/exhaust are not blocked.", "Let the unit cool down and restart during cooler conditions to confirm whether the code returns." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the unit off and let it sit (ideally until the rooftop unit has cooled).", "Cut power at the breaker for about a minute, then restore power and restart." ], "affected_models": [ "Houghton Belaire 3400", "Houghton Belaire 3500", "Houghton Belaire 3800", "Houghton Belaire series rooftop AC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on the roof only when it is safe to do so, and disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before cleaning the condenser; the compressor and fan run on 120V.", "call_tech_when": "If the coil is clean, the fan runs, and E5 still appears, have a technician check the condenser fan motor, refrigerant charge, and outdoor coil sensor.", "caveats": "Belaire 3800 field reports also describe E5 alongside no-cool symptoms; the manual table defines it as outdoor coil over-temperature.", "sources": [ { "title": "E5 Error: Houghton Belaire 3800 AC Troubleshooting Guide", "publisher": "JustAnswer", "url": "https://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/p3v1n-e5-outdoor-coil-temperature-high-houghton-belaire-3800.html", "manualRef": "E5 outdoor coil temperature too high" }, { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted AC Owner's Manual", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Outdoor coil temperature too high E5" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "awning", "appliance_name": "Awning", "code": "Auto-retract — wind sensor", "code_slug": "wind-sensor", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/awning/wind-sensor/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On Smart Arm units with the optional wind sensor, the awning automatically retracts when wind above the programmed sensitivity level is detected. As a notification that it is preparing to close, the awning light flashes. This is normal protective behavior, not a malfunction, and the wind sensitivity is set in levels 1 (least sensitive) to 3 (most sensitive).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Wind exceeding the set sensitivity level triggering auto-retract", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Wind sensitivity set too high (level 3) for gusty conditions", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wind sensor reacting to passing vehicles or buffeting", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the flashing light coincides with windy conditions, indicating a normal wind retract.", "Re-set the desired wind sensitivity level after any retract, since it must be re-entered each time the awning is brought in.", "Press the wind button 1 to 3 times to choose a lower sensitivity if nuisance retracts occur.", "Verify the wind sensor area is clear of debris or nests that could give false readings." ], "reset_steps": [ "Press and hold the lock button for three seconds to unlock the controller.", "Press the wind button 1 to 3 times to set the desired sensitivity (shown on the three LED lights).", "Extend the awning again; sensitivity must be reset after every retract." ], "affected_models": [ "Solera Smart Arm 12V power awning with optional wind sensor", "Solera 3500 Series Smart Arm" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not defeat or ignore the wind retract feature; in high wind, heavy rain, or when away from the unit, fully retract the awning to prevent it bending or collapsing. Keep clear of the arms during any automatic retract.", "call_tech_when": "The awning retracts with no wind present, never retracts in clearly high wind, or the wind sensor LEDs do not respond, suggesting a faulty sensor or wiring.", "caveats": "This is a behavioral indicator (auto-retract plus flashing light), not a numbered fault code. Applies only to units fitted with the optional wind sensor.", "sources": [ { "title": "Solera Awning Smart Arm Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Lippert%20Component's%20Solera%20Awning%20Smart%20Arm%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Operation - Wind Sensor (Optional), Form CCD-0001359, Rev 08.22.18" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "awning", "appliance_name": "Awning", "code": "Lock LED blinking — Level 1 fault", "code_slug": "level-1-fault", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/awning/level-1-fault/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A Level 1 fault means moisture has been detected in the main 12-pin connector of the Smart Arm system. The controller locks out the interior extend switch and the interior awning light control as a protection, but it deliberately does NOT lock out the retract function so you can still bring the awning in. The exterior touchpad keeps working unless a Level 2 fault is also present.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Water intrusion into the main 12-pin wiring connector", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Driving in rain or pressure-washing near the awning wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Connector not fully seated or a damaged seal allowing moisture in", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the retract function still works from the exterior touchpad and bring the awning in.", "Inspect the main 12-pin connector for visible water, corrosion, or a loose fit.", "Allow the connector and wiring to dry fully before expecting the fault to clear.", "Check that the interior switch and interior light are the functions locked out, which matches a Level 1 fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the system dry so no moisture is detected for at least about 100 seconds.", "Press any touchpad button to clear the fault, or power cycle the Smart Arm controller.", "Verify the interior switch and light return to normal operation." ], "affected_models": [ "Solera Smart Arm 12V power awning", "Solera 3500 Series Smart Arm", "Smart Arm assemblies produced after May 2018" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Moisture in a 12V connector can cause shorts. Disconnect power before opening or drying connectors, and do not force operation while the connector is wet. Keep clear of the moving awning arms during any retract.", "call_tech_when": "The fault will not clear after the connector is verified dry, or you find damaged seals or corroded pins that need replacement.", "caveats": "The continuously blinking lock LED looks identical to the low-voltage and Level 2 indications. A Level 1 fault is distinguished by the symptom pattern: interior extend switch and interior light locked out, retract and exterior touchpad still working.", "sources": [ { "title": "Solera Awning Smart Arm Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Lippert%20Component's%20Solera%20Awning%20Smart%20Arm%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes For Assemblies Produced After May 2018, Level 1 Fault, Form CCD-0001359, Rev 08.22.18" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "awning", "appliance_name": "Awning", "code": "Lock LED blinking — Level 2 fault", "code_slug": "level-2-fault", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/awning/level-2-fault/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A Level 2 fault means moisture has been detected in the touchpad or the controller board itself. The touchpad lock LED blinks continuously (commonly seen as a blinking yellow light) and the exterior touchpad extend and light buttons are locked out until a special unlock button sequence is performed. Interior switches and OneControl remain functional. A simple power cycle will NOT clear this fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Water intrusion into the exterior touchpad", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Moisture reaching the Smart Arm controller board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed or cracked touchpad seal exposing the electronics to weather", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the symptom matches Level 2: exterior touchpad extend and light buttons locked out while interior controls still work.", "Inspect the touchpad face and housing for water, cracks, or a failed seal.", "Let the touchpad and controller dry thoroughly before attempting the unlock sequence.", "Verify a normal power cycle does not clear it, which confirms a Level 2 rather than Level 1 fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Press the touchpad extend button.", "Press the touchpad retract button.", "Press the touchpad light button.", "Press the touchpad wind button.", "Hold the touchpad unlock button for 10 seconds until the unlock LED stays on solid; the touchpad then works until it times out or you re-lock it." ], "affected_models": [ "Solera Smart Arm 12V power awning", "Solera 3500 Series Smart Arm", "Smart Arm assemblies produced after May 2018" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Moisture in the touchpad or controller is a 12V short hazard. Disconnect power before opening the touchpad or controller, dry components fully, and keep clear of the moving arms when operating after the unlock.", "call_tech_when": "The unlock sequence does not restore the touchpad, the fault returns repeatedly, or you find a failed touchpad/controller board that needs replacement.", "caveats": "The note step ordering in the manual lists extend, retract, light, wind, then hold unlock; etrailer phrases it slightly differently but both describe the same five-button unlock. The blinking LED may appear yellow on units with an amber lock LED.", "sources": [ { "title": "Solera Awning Smart Arm Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Lippert%20Component's%20Solera%20Awning%20Smart%20Arm%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Error Codes For Assemblies Produced After May 2018, Level 2 Fault, Form CCD-0001359, Rev 08.22.18" }, { "title": "Why Is My Lippert Solera Smart Arm RV Awning Blinking Yellow And Will Not Operate?", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-676000.html", "manualRef": "Expert Q&A: blinking yellow = Level 2 fault, with unlock sequence" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "awning", "appliance_name": "Awning", "code": "Lock LED blinking — low voltage", "code_slug": "low-voltage", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/awning/low-voltage/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The Smart Arm controller has detected battery voltage that is too low to safely run the awning motor. On these units the touchpad lock LED blinks continuously to flag a fault, and the awning's LED light strip starts flashing during use once the supply drops below about 11 volts. This is a protective warning, not a hardware failure of the awning itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Discharged or weak RV battery (common when boondocking or with the converter off)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "RV not connected to shore power or the battery not charging", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose 12V power/ground connection causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing battery that cannot hold voltage under the motor's load", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage at rest; healthy 12V systems read about 12.6V when fully charged.", "Connect to shore power or run the engine/generator to charge the battery, then retry.", "Inspect and clean the awning's 12V supply and ground connections for corrosion or looseness.", "Note whether the awning light only flashes under load, which points to voltage sag rather than a controller fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the battery to a full charge (shore power, generator, or engine charging).", "Press and hold the lock button for three seconds to power the controller on and retry operation.", "If the fault was momentary, normal operation resumes once voltage is back above the threshold." ], "affected_models": [ "Solera Smart Arm 12V power awning", "Solera 3500 Series Smart Arm", "Smart Arm assemblies produced after May 2018" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a 12V DC electrical system. Disconnect power before probing or repairing wiring, and never bypass the low-voltage protection by forcing the motor on a weak battery, which can overheat the motor wiring. Keep hands clear of the moving arms.", "call_tech_when": "The lock LED keeps blinking even with a confirmed fully charged battery and clean, tight connections, or if you measure good voltage at the motor but it still will not run.", "caveats": "The low-voltage alert and the moisture faults all use the same continuously blinking lock LED, so the blink itself does not distinguish them. Voltage cause is inferred when the awning light flashes under load and battery voltage is low.", "sources": [ { "title": "Solera Awning Smart Arm Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://primetimerv.com/files/component-manuals//Lippert%20Component's%20Solera%20Awning%20Smart%20Arm%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Introduction and Error Codes For Assemblies Produced After May 2018, Form CCD-0001359, Rev 08.22.18" } ], "confidence": 0.86, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Bad Calibration", "code_slug": "bad-calibration", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/bad-calibration/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The controller's stored level-sensor calibration values are outside the acceptable range, so it cannot establish a reliable zero/level reference for auto-leveling.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Corrupted or out-of-range stored calibration data in the controller", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Internal sensor drift or fault affecting calibration", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power-cycle the system and retry to rule out a transient glitch", "Confirm the controller is mounted flat and secure (a tilted mount can corrupt calibration)", "Check that no firmware update or reset was interrupted" ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect and reconnect system power", "If supported by your firmware, re-run the zero-point / level calibration on flat ground", "If calibration still fails, the controller typically must be replaced" ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel)", "Ground Control TT (travel trailer)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Perform any calibration only on firm, level ground with wheels chocked. Do not work beneath the trailer while it is supported by jacks alone.", "call_tech_when": "The error persists after a power cycle and calibration attempt — the documented remedy is controller replacement.", "caveats": "Exact on-screen wording and availability of a user calibration routine vary by firmware revision; documented fix is controller replacement.", "sources": [ { "title": "Ground Control 3.0 Service Manual — Touch Pad Error Codes", "publisher": "Lippert Components (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267968/Lippert-Components-Ground-Control-3-0.html?page=8", "manualRef": "Touch Pad Error Codes, Page 8" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Comm Error", "code_slug": "comm-error", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/comm-error/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Communication between the touchpad and the control module has been lost. The touchpad cannot talk to the controller, so the system will not operate until the link is restored.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, unseated, or disconnected communication harness connector at the touchpad or controller", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged, corroded, or pinched communication harness", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low or dead battery / insufficient supply voltage to the controller", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed control module or touchpad", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Re-seat the connector on the back of the touchpad and at the control module.", "Inspect the communication harness for frayed, pinched, or corroded wires.", "Check that the house battery reads about 12.6V or more and is healthy under load.", "Verify controller power and ground connections are clean and tight." ], "reset_steps": [ "On Ground Control 3.0, press and hold the Retract and Enter buttons together for about 3 seconds to clear the code.", "If that fails, disconnect system power for several minutes, then reconnect and retry.", "On Level-Up, replace the communication harness if connections are confirmed loose or faulty." ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel / travel trailer electric)", "Level-Up (hydraulic)", "Electronic/Hydraulic Leveling with touchpad" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on a stable, level surface with wheels chocked. Disconnect battery power before handling wiring connectors to avoid shorts. Do not go under the coach while it rests on jacks.", "call_tech_when": "Connectors and harness are confirmed good and the battery is healthy but the Comm Error persists, indicating a failed control module or touchpad that needs replacement.", "caveats": "Reset key combination (Retract + Enter, ~3 sec) is documented for Ground Control 3.0; Level-Up clears differently. Confirm the exact reset for your specific touchpad model in your owner's manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Lippert Level-Up Owner's Manual (Comm Error / Check Wiring)", "publisher": "Lippert Components / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1336515/Lippert-Components-Level-Up.html?page=10", "manualRef": "Level-Up Owner's Manual, Error Modes (Comm Error / Check Wiring)" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting Comm Error on Lippert Ground Control 3.0 Auto Leveling System", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-552479.html", "manualRef": "etrailer expert Q&A citing Lippert Ground Control 3.0 documentation" }, { "title": "Clearing Fault Code and Manually Operating Lippert Ground Control 3.0", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-612234.html", "manualRef": "etrailer expert Q&A (Retract + Enter reset procedure)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Excessive Slope", "code_slug": "excessive-slope", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/excessive-slope/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The RV is parked on ground that is too far out of level for the system to safely auto-level. On Lippert hydraulic systems (Level-Up, motorhome auto-level) the limit is about 3.5 degrees out of level front-to-rear or side-to-side; beyond that the jacks may not have enough travel to bring the coach level, so the system stops.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Coach parked on a site that slopes more than ~3.5 degrees in any direction", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Severe ground angle exceeding jack stroke capability", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Level/zero point was calibrated incorrectly, so the controller misreads the slope", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm visually whether the site is noticeably sloped; move the rig to flatter ground if possible.", "Use the system's manual (jack-by-jack) mode to raise the low side toward level before retrying auto-level.", "Place leveling blocks/boards under the low-side wheels or jacks to reduce the slope the system has to correct.", "Verify the zero/level point has been set correctly per the owner's manual if the message appears on ground that looks flat." ], "reset_steps": [ "Acknowledge the message on the touchpad (press Enter/OK).", "Reposition the coach or use manual mode to reduce the slope, then restart the auto-level sequence." ], "affected_models": [ "Level-Up (motorhome hydraulic auto-level)", "Electronic/Hydraulic Leveling with touchpad", "Ground Control 3.0 (similar excessive-slope handling)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never crawl under the coach while it is supported only by leveling jacks; jacks are not designed to hold the vehicle for service. Chock the wheels and use rated jack stands before going underneath.", "call_tech_when": "The message persists on ground that is clearly flat and level, which points to a sensor or zero-point calibration problem rather than the actual slope.", "caveats": "The exact wording on the display varies by system and firmware ('EXCESSIVE SLOPE', 'EXCESS ANGLE', 'EXCESSIVE ANGLE'). The 3.5-degree threshold is documented for the Level-Up hydraulic system; other Lippert systems use a similar but not necessarily identical limit.", "sources": [ { "title": "Lippert Components Level-Up Owner's Manual (Error Mode; Excess Slope)", "publisher": "Lippert Components / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1336515/Lippert-Components-Level-Up.html?page=10", "manualRef": "Level-Up Owner's Manual, Troubleshooting / Error Modes, p.10-11" }, { "title": "LCI Motorized Leveling Unidirectional Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Lippert / Forest River", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Leveling%20-%20Stabilizing/Lippert%20-%20Auto%20Level%20Model%20Motorized%20Leveling%20Unidirectional%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Motorized Leveling Owner's Manual, error/troubleshooting section" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "External Sensor Error", "code_slug": "external-sensor", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/external-sensor/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The controller lost a valid reading from the external (rear) level sensor, which sits a few feet behind the rear axle and tells the system the trailer's tilt; without it auto-level cannot run.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or disconnected plug at the external rear sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged or chafed wiring between controller and rear sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed external sensor module", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Locate the rear sensor behind the rearmost axle and re-seat its connector firmly", "Inspect the harness run for pinched, rubbed, or rodent-damaged wire", "Check for corrosion or water intrusion at the sensor connector", "Confirm the sensor is mounted securely and not knocked loose" ], "reset_steps": [ "Repair or reconnect the sensor wiring", "Cycle power to the leveling controller", "Re-run the level cycle to confirm the error clears" ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel)", "Ground Control TT (travel trailer)", "systems using a remote rear level sensor" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Block and chock the trailer before reaching underneath; never rely on the jacks alone for support while inspecting the rear sensor or wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Wiring and connectors are good but the error persists, indicating the sensor module itself likely needs replacement.", "caveats": "Sensor location described as roughly 2-3 feet behind the rearmost axle; exact placement varies by coach builder.", "sources": [ { "title": "Ground Control 3.0 Service Manual — Touch Pad Error Codes", "publisher": "Lippert Components (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267968/Lippert-Components-Ground-Control-3-0.html?page=8", "manualRef": "Touch Pad Error Codes, Page 8" }, { "title": "External Sensor Error Troubleshooting Lippert Ground Control", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-366561.html", "manualRef": "Tech Q&A 366561" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Feature Disabled", "code_slug": "feature-disabled", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/feature-disabled/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Shown during Hitch Recognition (unhitch) on fifth-wheel units when the front of the trailer is below level — typically because the landing gear was not fully retracted before starting — so the automatic hitch feature is blocked.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Landing gear not fully retracted before starting Hitch Recognition", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Front of the trailer sitting below level when the routine begins", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Use manual mode to fully retract the rear jacks", "Raise the landing gear / front so the nose is at or above hitch height", "Confirm the pin box is roughly at the correct hitch height before retrying" ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch to manual mode and reposition the front to hitch height", "Exit and re-enter the Hitch Recognition / auto routine", "Proceed once the front is at or above level" ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel 4-point and 6-point)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Keep clear of moving landing gear and jacks, and ensure the truck is properly positioned before any hitch/unhitch operation to avoid crush hazards.", "call_tech_when": "The feature stays disabled even when the front is correctly positioned at hitch height — indicates a sensor or controller issue.", "caveats": "This message is specific to fifth-wheel Hitch Recognition and does not apply to travel-trailer-only setups.", "sources": [ { "title": "Ground Control 3.0 Service Manual — Touch Pad Error Codes", "publisher": "Lippert Components (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267968/Lippert-Components-Ground-Control-3-0.html?page=8", "manualRef": "Touch Pad Error Codes, Page 8" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Internal Sensor Error", "code_slug": "internal-sensor", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/internal-sensor/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The level sensor built into the leveling controller itself is reporting bad or out-of-range data, so the controller can no longer trust its own tilt measurement.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed internal sensor inside the controller", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Controller mounted loose or at a severe angle, confusing the internal sensor", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the controller is mounted solidly to a flat surface and has not come loose", "Confirm nothing is pressing on or vibrating the controller", "Power-cycle the system and retry to rule out a one-time glitch" ], "reset_steps": [ "Secure the controller mounting if it is loose", "Disconnect and reconnect system power", "If the error returns, the controller typically must be replaced" ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel)", "Ground Control TT (travel trailer)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a controller-internal fault; do not attempt to open or repair the sealed controller. Keep the trailer chocked and never work beneath jack-only support.", "call_tech_when": "The error persists after re-securing the controller and power cycling — replacement of the controller is the documented fix.", "caveats": "Documented remedy is controller replacement; some loose-mount cases clear on their own.", "sources": [ { "title": "Ground Control 3.0 Service Manual — Touch Pad Error Codes", "publisher": "Lippert Components (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267968/Lippert-Components-Ground-Control-3-0.html?page=8", "manualRef": "Touch Pad Error Codes, Page 8" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Jack Position Fault", "code_slug": "jack-position-fault", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/jack-position-fault/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "An error at one specific jack on the Ground Control 3.0 electric system, identified by position: Left Front, Right Front, Left Rear, or Right Rear. The controller has lost the expected feedback/signal from that jack's motor.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open ground or short circuit in the wiring between controller and that jack's motor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged, frayed, or disconnected harness at the jack or controller", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown or damaged fuse at the controller for that circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed jack motor (e.g., Hall-effect feedback failure) even though the jack may still turn by hand", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the harness connectors at the named jack and at the controller for damage, corrosion, or looseness.", "Check and reseat ground connections.", "Check the controller fuses and replace any that are blown.", "Note whether the jack still moves under manual override (ratchet) while throwing the code; if it moves mechanically but still faults, the motor's feedback may have failed." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear the code on Ground Control 3.0 by pressing and holding Retract + Enter together for about 3 seconds.", "If it does not clear, disconnect system power for several minutes, then reconnect and retry.", "Manually retract the affected jack if needed using a 3/8\" drive ratchet in the motor port per the manual." ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel and travel trailer electric leveling)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect battery power before probing or repairing jack wiring to avoid shorts and unexpected jack movement. Keep wheels chocked; never rely on the jacks to support the coach for under-vehicle work.", "call_tech_when": "Wiring, grounds, and fuses are confirmed good but the jack still faults, or if the jack motor needs replacement and you are not comfortable performing it.", "caveats": "Position abbreviations (LF/RF/LR/RR) are confirmed by etrailer's Lippert-based troubleshooting; LF/RF are inferred by symmetry from the explicitly documented RR/LR. This applies to the Ground Control 3.0 electric system, not the hydraulic Level-Up. Always confirm the exact code and motor part (e.g., Hall-effect motor) for your unit before ordering parts.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting a Lippert Ground Control 3.0 Leveling System Giving an RR/LR Error Code", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-650092.html", "manualRef": "etrailer expert Q&A citing Lippert Ground Control 3.0 troubleshooting" }, { "title": "Clearing Fault Code and Manually Operating Lippert Ground Control 3.0", "publisher": "etrailer.com", "url": "https://www.etrailer.com/question-612234.html", "manualRef": "etrailer expert Q&A (reset and manual-override procedure)" } ], "confidence": 0.8, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Jack Time Out", "code_slug": "jack-time-out", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/jack-time-out/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A jack motor pulled an unexpectedly high current (a stall) or did not complete its move in the expected time, so the controller stopped that jack to prevent damage.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Jack stalled against an obstruction, soft ground, or its mechanical limit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Binding, bent, or damaged jack mechanism", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing jack motor drawing excess current", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Look for debris, ground softness, or an obstacle under the affected jack", "Check the jack and foot for visible binding, bending, or damage", "Place a pad/block under a foot sinking into soft ground and retry", "Operate the jack in manual mode to see if it moves freely" ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear any obstruction under the jack", "Use manual mode to retract the affected jack, then re-home all jacks (retract a minimum of about 6 inches)", "Restart the auto-level cycle" ], "affected_models": [ "Ground Control 3.0 (5th wheel)", "Ground Control TT (travel trailer)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never place hands or body under a jack that may move, and never work beneath a trailer supported only by jacks. Use jack stands or blocks for support.", "call_tech_when": "A jack repeatedly times out with no obstruction, or moves roughly/noisily — the jack or its motor may need service or replacement.", "caveats": "Described as an unexpected high-amp current stall; wording may appear as a timeout or stall depending on firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Ground Control 3.0 Service Manual — Touch Pad Error Codes", "publisher": "Lippert Components (via ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267968/Lippert-Components-Ground-Control-3-0.html?page=8", "manualRef": "Touch Pad Error Codes, Page 8" } ], "confidence": 0.84, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Low Voltage", "code_slug": "low-voltage", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/low-voltage/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery voltage dropped too low for safe operation. On the Level-Up system, auto-level mode requires about 12.75V DC, and the system halts operation if voltage falls to roughly 9.5V DC during use.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Discharged or weak house battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Heavy current draw of multiple jacks pulling a marginal battery down under load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or undersized battery cables / ground causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing battery that cannot hold voltage under load", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check battery voltage; it should be ~12.6V+ at rest and stay well above 9.5V under load.", "Charge or recharge the battery (shore power or running the engine/alternator) before retrying.", "Inspect and tighten battery terminals and ground connections; clean any corrosion.", "Run the engine while leveling on a motorhome to support voltage during operation." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore proper voltage (charge battery / connect shore power or start engine).", "Acknowledge the error and restart the leveling sequence once voltage is stable." ], "affected_models": [ "Level-Up (hydraulic auto-level)", "Electronic/Hydraulic Leveling", "Ground Control 3.0 (electric, sensitive to low battery)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Batteries can produce explosive gas and high current. Avoid sparks near batteries, wear eye protection, and remove metal jewelry when working on terminals. Keep wheels chocked and stay clear of moving jacks.", "call_tech_when": "Voltage is confirmed adequate (healthy, fully charged battery, good cables) but the Low Voltage error keeps appearing, pointing to a controller or wiring fault.", "caveats": "The 12.75V (auto) and 9.5V (cutoff) thresholds are documented for the Level-Up hydraulic system; other Lippert systems flag low voltage but may use slightly different setpoints.", "sources": [ { "title": "Lippert Level-Up Owner's Manual (Error: Low Voltage; voltage thresholds)", "publisher": "Lippert Components / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1336515/Lippert-Components-Level-Up.html?page=11", "manualRef": "Level-Up Owner's Manual, Error Modes & Voltage Requirements (12.75V auto / 9.5V cutoff)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "leveling-system", "appliance_name": "Leveling System", "code": "Out of Stroke", "code_slug": "out-of-stroke", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/leveling-system/out-of-stroke/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A jack has run out of travel before leveling could be completed. The jack reached the end of its mechanical stroke (fully extended or unable to lift the low corner enough) so the controller cannot finish the level routine.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Site is too far out of level for the jack's available stroke", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low corner sits too high off the ground (large gap between jack foot and ground) so the jack maxes out", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Incorrect zero/level point set, causing the system to overdrive one jack", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Place leveling blocks or a SnapPad/foot extension under the affected jack to reduce the gap to the ground.", "Move to flatter ground or pre-level the rig with blocks under the wheels.", "Use manual mode to even out the jacks, then re-home/re-zero the system and retry auto-level." ], "reset_steps": [ "Acknowledge the error on the touchpad.", "Retract jacks fully (re-home), reposition or add blocks, then restart the leveling sequence." ], "affected_models": [ "Level-Up (hydraulic auto-level)", "Electronic/Hydraulic Leveling", "Ground Control / auto-level travel-trailer systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not place hands or body under a jack while it is moving. Never use the jacks to support the coach for under-vehicle work; use rated stands and wheel chocks.", "call_tech_when": "The error appears even on level ground with the jacks clearly not at full stroke, indicating a sensor, hydraulic, or calibration fault.", "caveats": "Meaning confirmed by the official Lippert manual; the blocking/SnapPad workaround is widely reported by RV owners and is consistent with the documented cause but is a practical fix rather than a manual-prescribed step.", "sources": [ { "title": "Lippert Components Level-Up Owner's Manual (Error: Out of Stroke)", "publisher": "Lippert Components / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1336515/Lippert-Components-Level-Up.html?page=10", "manualRef": "Level-Up Owner's Manual, Error Modes table (Out of Stroke)" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting Lippert Auto Level 'Out of Stroke' Errors on Travel Trailers", "publisher": "Forest River Forums", "url": "https://www.forestriverforums.com/threads/troubleshooting-lippert-auto-level-out-of-stroke-errors-on-travel-trailers.1448934/", "manualRef": "Community troubleshooting thread referencing Lippert auto-level behavior" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "2 red flashes", "code_slug": "2-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/2-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery drop-out fault. During a slide cycle the system voltage sagged below roughly 6 volts while the motors were running, so the controller halted the room to protect itself. The green LED also blinks to show which motor (1 blink = motor 1, 2 blinks = motor 2) saw the problem.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Weak, undercharged, or aging house battery that collapses under the motor load", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Corroded, loose, or undersized battery/ground cables causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Running the slide off battery alone with a large parasitic or simultaneous load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing battery cell", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Plug into shore power or run the generator, then retry the slide.", "Check the house battery resting voltage with a multimeter; a healthy 12V battery reads about 12.6V.", "Inspect battery terminals and the controller power/ground leads for corrosion or looseness.", "Make sure other heavy loads are off while operating the slide." ], "reset_steps": [ "Stop pressing the switch and let the fault display.", "Charge or replace the battery / connect to shore power first.", "Energize the extend or retract switch once to reset (clear) the controller.", "Energize the switch again to resume normal operation." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Battery and 12V wiring can deliver high current and cause sparks or burns at the terminals. Disconnect the negative battery lead before touching cables, remove rings and jewelry, and never bridge battery terminals with a tool.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage is good under load but the code keeps returning, or if you find damaged power/ground cabling you are not comfortable replacing.", "caveats": "Blink-count diagnostics require a controller version with diagnostic LEDs; the green-LED motor indication accompanies the red-LED code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 2 (rev b031811)" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 2 Blinks: Battery Drop Out" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "3 red flashes", "code_slug": "3-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/3-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Low battery at start of cycle. When you pressed the switch, the supply voltage was already below about 8 volts, so the controller would not start the motors.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Discharged house battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Battery disconnect switch off or charger/converter not working", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop from corroded or loose connections", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Connect to shore power or generator and try again.", "Measure battery voltage; below ~12V indicates it needs charging.", "Verify the battery disconnect switch is on.", "Confirm the converter/charger is powering the 12V system." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore proper voltage (charge battery or connect shore power).", "Energize the extend/retract switch once to reset the controller.", "Energize the switch again for normal operation." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Charging systems and batteries store significant energy. Keep tools and metal objects away from terminals and disconnect the negative lead before servicing wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery is fully charged and connections are clean but the code persists, suspect a controller or charging-system fault.", "caveats": "The 8V start threshold is from the manual; the system can still run rooms down to as little as 8V but performance suffers at low voltage.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 3: Low battery, voltage below 8 volts at start of cycle" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 3 Blinks: Low Battery" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "4 red flashes", "code_slug": "4-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/4-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "High battery / over-voltage fault. The controller saw supply voltage above roughly 18 volts and shut down to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Charging or converter malfunction pushing voltage too high", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Improper jump-start, wrong charger, or external power source feeding excessive voltage", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage spike during operation", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure system voltage at the battery; over ~15V sustained is abnormal for a 12V system.", "Disconnect any auxiliary chargers or boosters and retest.", "Inspect the converter/charger output if voltage reads high." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the over-voltage source and bring the system back to normal 12V.", "Energize the extend/retract switch once to reset the controller.", "Energize the switch again for normal operation." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Over-voltage can damage electronics and indicate a charging-system fault that may overheat the battery. Stop charging and let the system cool; lithium and lead-acid batteries can vent gas under fault conditions.", "call_tech_when": "If you cannot find the source of the high voltage, or the converter/charger output reads high, have the charging system inspected before further use.", "caveats": "The 18V threshold is per the Lippert manual; some controller revisions may differ slightly.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 4: High battery, voltage greater than 18 volts" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 4 Blinks: High Battery" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "5 red flashes", "code_slug": "5-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/5-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Excessive motor current. One of the slide motors drew too much amperage, which the controller reads as binding or a stall. This is also what you see when one side of the room repeatedly stalls and stops short. The green LED shows whether motor 1 or motor 2 is affected.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Mechanical binding: dirty, dry, or misaligned gear racks and the slide track", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Room out of sync so one side leads and jams", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Obstruction in the slide path or seals dragging hard", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Cold-stiffened mechanism or worn motor needing more amperage than the stall setting allows", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the vertical gear racks and tracks for debris, dirt, or obstructions and clean them.", "Apply the manufacturer-approved dry lubricant to the gear racks (do not use grease that traps grit).", "Check for anything inside or outside blocking the room or seals dragging heavily.", "Watch whether one side leads the other, which points to a sync problem (see resync steps)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear any binding or obstruction first.", "Energize the extend/retract switch once to reset the controller.", "Energize the switch again to operate.", "If the room is out of sync, perform the resync: hold the OUT switch until the room fully extends, then bring it IN 8 to 10 inches; repeat at least three times until both sides move together.", "Tip to prevent recurrence: at the end of each full extend or retract, hold the switch about 3 to 5 seconds so the controller registers its zero point." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Keep hands, fingers, and clothing clear of the moving gear racks and pinch points while the room cycles. Use only the approved dry lube; petroleum products can damage seals.", "call_tech_when": "If binding persists after cleaning and lubricating, if the room will not resync after several attempts, or if a motor/gear rack appears damaged.", "caveats": "Code 5 is the classic stall/sync symptom; the resync steps come from Lippert's official retiming guidance and apply when one side leads the other.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 5: Excessive motor current, also indicated by 1 side of slide continually stalling" }, { "title": "Retiming Your Schwintek Slide-Out and Preventing Syncing Issues", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://www.lippert.com/blog/retiming-schwintek-slide-out-preventing-syncing-issues", "manualRef": "Resync procedure: fully extend, retract 8-10 inches, repeat minimum three times; hold switch 3-5 sec at end of stroke" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "6 red flashes", "code_slug": "6-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/6-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Motor short circuit. The controller detected that a motor or its wiring has shorted out. The green LED indicates which motor (1 or 2) is involved.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shorted motor winding (failed motor)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged, pinched, or chafed motor wiring causing a short", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Water intrusion or corrosion in a motor connector", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Visually inspect the motor pigtail and harness for crushed, melted, or chafed insulation.", "Check connectors for corrosion, moisture, or burnt pins.", "Note from the green LED which motor is flagged so the right side is inspected." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect power before inspecting wiring.", "Repair or replace shorted wiring or the affected motor (typically a service task).", "After repair, energize the extend/retract switch once to reset, then again to operate." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A short circuit can overheat wiring and create a fire or burn risk. Disconnect the battery before probing the harness and do not re-energize a circuit with visibly damaged wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Almost always: a confirmed motor short or motor replacement is a service-level repair. Call a tech if inspection shows a shorted motor or damaged harness.", "caveats": "Note the Schwintek code list skips 7; there is no code 7 in the published table.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 6: Motor short circuit, motor or wiring to motor has shorted out" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 6 Blinks: Motor Short Circuit" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "8 red flashes", "code_slug": "8-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/8-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Hall signal not present. The controller is not receiving the position (encoder) feedback from a motor's Hall sensor, so it cannot track that side's movement. This is the most commonly reported Schwintek fault and usually points to wiring. The green LED shows which motor's signal is missing.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Broken, pinched, or chafed wire in the system harness or motor pigtail", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded connector at the controller or motor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed Hall-effect sensor inside the motor", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the full motor harness and pigtail for pinch points, cuts, or chafing, especially where wires flex with the room.", "Reseat the motor and controller connectors and check for corrosion or bent pins.", "Use the green LED to identify which motor (1 or 2) lost its signal and focus on that side." ], "reset_steps": [ "With power safely off, repair any damaged wiring or reseat connectors.", "Energize the extend/retract switch once to reset the controller.", "Energize the switch again to operate.", "If movement is now uneven, run the resync (full extend, retract 8-10 inches, repeat at least three times)." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect the battery before opening connectors. Keep clear of pinch points if you cycle the room to observe behavior.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring looks intact but the signal is still missing (likely a failed sensor or motor), or if you cannot locate the harness damage.", "caveats": "Widely reported by owners as the most frequent code; the manual attributes it primarily to wiring/encoder problems.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 8: Hall signal not present, encoder is not providing a signal, usually a wiring problem" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 8 Blinks: Hall Signal Not Present" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "lippert", "brand_name": "Lippert", "appliance": "slide-out", "appliance_name": "Slide-Out", "code": "9 red flashes", "code_slug": "9-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/lippert/slide-out/9-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Hall power short to ground. The power feed to a motor's encoder (Hall sensor) has been shorted to ground, usually a wiring issue. The green LED shows which motor circuit is affected.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Pinched or chafed encoder power wire grounding against the frame", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged connector or harness shorting the sensor supply", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Water intrusion creating a ground path", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the motor harness for spots where insulation is rubbed through against metal.", "Check connectors for moisture, debris, or bent pins shorting to the shell.", "Identify the affected motor via the green LED and concentrate the inspection there." ], "reset_steps": [ "With power off, repair the shorted/chafed wiring.", "Energize the extend/retract switch once to reset.", "Energize the switch again to operate." ], "affected_models": [ "Schwintek In-Wall slide-out controller (Rev B and later)", "Lippert OneControl-managed Schwintek slide systems" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A wire shorting to the chassis can heat up and damage the controller. Disconnect the battery before inspecting or repairing, and do not re-power a circuit with exposed conductors.", "call_tech_when": "If you cannot find the short, if the controller seems damaged, or if the code returns after repair.", "caveats": "Distinguished from code 8 by being a short-to-ground on the sensor power feed rather than a missing signal.", "sources": [ { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout System Operation and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components, Inc.", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Schwintek-Manual-override.pdf", "manualRef": "Error codes section, code 9: Hall power short to ground, usually a wiring problem" }, { "title": "Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Troubleshooting and Component Replacement", "publisher": "RV Upgrade Store (Lippert document)", "url": "https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/schwintek_in_wall_slideout_troubleshooting_and_component_replacement_0272.pdf", "manualRef": "Red LED 9 Blinks: Hall Power Short to Ground" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "8 flashes", "code_slug": "8-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/8-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "DC input voltage too low. The 12V supply feeding the refrigerator control has dropped below the minimum the board needs to operate safely.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or discharged house battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failing or undersized AC/DC converter-charger", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop from corroded connections, loose grounds, or long/thin wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blown fuse or weak battery connection", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure house battery voltage; it should be comfortably above ~10.5-11V under load for the fridge to run.", "Check that the converter/charger is working when on shore power and that the battery is actually charging.", "Inspect and clean the 12V fuse, ground, and power connections at the fridge and battery for corrosion or looseness." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore adequate 12V (charge or replace the battery, fix connections), then cycle the fridge off and on to clear the code." ], "affected_models": [ "N7V", "N8V", "N7X", "N8X", "N7DC", "N8DC", "N10DC", "NA7", "NA8", "NA10", "N7", "N8", "N10" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on 12V wiring with the circuit fused and disconnected where possible; shorting a battery cable can cause sparks, burns, or fire. Battery banks can deliver very high current.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage is adequate at the battery but the fridge still reports low DC, have a tech trace the wiring/board.", "caveats": "This eight-flash pattern is specific to the newer Polar N7V/N8V and N7X/N8X (and DC-compressor N-DC) controls. Older display-code models report low voltage differently.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Polar N7V Service Manual, Flash Pattern 8 (DC input too low)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold service manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1435730/Norcold-Polar-N7v.html?page=17", "manualRef": "Polar N7V/N8V service manual, p.17 (8 flashes)" }, { "title": "Norcold Polar 7 Series Owner's Manual, Fault Codes (N7X/N8X)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold owner's manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1906182/Norcold-Polar-7-Series.html?page=22", "manualRef": "Polar 7 Series manual, p.22 (Code 8 low DC)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "9 flashes", "code_slug": "9-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/9-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "DC input voltage too high. The 12V supply to the refrigerator control has risen above the safe maximum, so the board shuts down to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Overcharging or misadjusted converter-charger output", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty voltage regulation in the charging source (e.g., alternator or solar controller)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong/incompatible power supply feeding the 12V bus", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the 12V supply at the fridge; sustained readings well above ~15-16V are too high.", "Check the converter/charger and any solar charge controller output settings for overcharging.", "If on engine power, have the alternator/regulator checked for overvoltage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the charging source so voltage is in the normal ~12-14.4V range, then cycle the fridge off and on to clear the code." ], "affected_models": [ "N7V", "N8V", "N7X", "N8X", "N7DC", "N8DC", "N10DC", "NA7", "NA8", "NA10", "N7", "N8", "N10" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overvoltage on the 12V bus can damage electronics and, with battery/solar systems, indicates a charging fault. High-current battery and solar circuits can arc and start fires; have charging-system faults checked by a qualified tech.", "call_tech_when": "If you cannot find the overvoltage source or it persists after adjusting the charger, have the charging system professionally diagnosed.", "caveats": "Nine-flash pattern is specific to the newer Polar N7V/N8V and N7X/N8X (and DC-compressor) controls.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Polar N7V Service Manual, Flash Pattern 9 (DC input too high)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold service manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1435730/Norcold-Polar-N7v.html?page=17", "manualRef": "Polar N7V/N8V service manual, p.17 (9 flashes)" }, { "title": "Norcold Polar 7 Series Owner's Manual, Fault Codes (N7X/N8X)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold owner's manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1906182/Norcold-Polar-7-Series.html?page=22", "manualRef": "Polar 7 Series manual, p.22 (Code 9 high DC)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "10 flashes", "code_slug": "10-flashes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/10-flashes/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Communication lost between the refrigerator's controls (the user-interface/display board and the rear power board can no longer talk to each other).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose, damaged, or disconnected communication/ribbon harness between the boards", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Corroded or chafed wiring in the comm harness", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed display board or rear power board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Power the fridge down, then inspect and reseat the harness connectors between the front display and the rear power board.", "Look for chafed, pinched, or corroded wires along the harness run.", "Confirm both boards are receiving power." ], "reset_steps": [ "After reseating connectors, cycle the fridge off and on at the control to re-establish communication and clear the code." ], "affected_models": [ "N7V", "N8V", "N7X", "N8X", "N7DC", "N8DC", "N10DC", "NA7", "NA8", "NA10", "N7", "N8", "N10" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect 12V power before unplugging or reseating board connectors to avoid shorting the electronics. Avoid touching board components with bare hands when powered.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating the harness does not restore communication, have a tech test the display and power boards.", "caveats": "On the Polar N7V/N8V service manual this is the 10-flash pattern; some Polar 7-series owner manuals show the same comm-loss condition as flashing snowflake icons rather than a counted flash. Specific to the newer Polar controls.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Polar N7V Service Manual, Flash Pattern 10 (communications lost)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold service manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1435730/Norcold-Polar-N7v.html?page=17", "manualRef": "Polar N7V/N8V service manual, p.17 (10 flashes)" }, { "title": "Norcold Polar 7 Series Owner's Manual (snowflakes/comm-loss indication)", "publisher": "ManualsLib (Norcold owner's manual)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1906182/Norcold-Polar-7-Series.html?page=22", "manualRef": "Polar 7 Series manual, p.22" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "AC rE / Sr CL", "code_slug": "ac-re", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/ac-re/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The AC relay on the rear power board is stuck closed, so the control can no longer switch the 120 V AC heating circuit off when it wants to. Norcold prints this as one fault with two display styles: the LCD panel alternates \"AC\" and \"rE\", while the older LED panel flashes \"Sr\" and \"CL\" with the AC LED flashing.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Welded or stuck AC relay on the rear power board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged power board switching circuitry driving the relay", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note the code and cycle the fridge OFF then ON to confirm it returns", "Confirm the AC supply is stable and inside 108-132 V before assuming the board is bad" ], "reset_steps": [ "Cycle the refrigerator OFF and ON once to see whether the fault was momentary", "A persisting fault is board-level and will not clear with a normal reset" ], "affected_models": [ "1200", "1201", "1210", "1211" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A stuck AC relay means the 120 V heating circuit may not switch off when the control asks it to. Disconnect AC power before any work behind the fridge and leave board replacement to a qualified technician.", "call_tech_when": "The code returns after a power cycle. Norcold's own instruction for this fault is to replace the power board.", "caveats": "Corrected on 2026-08-30. This page previously described AC/rE as a flame-sense failure. Two Norcold OEM manuals agree it is not: publication 618968B files \"Sr CL\" and \"AC rE\" as one fault, AC relay stuck closed, and publication 619394E lists \"AC\" \"rE\" = AC relay is stuck closed. The flame-sense failure is a separate code, \"Sr FS\" / \"Sr\". The same fault appears as the letter \"H\" on N620/N621/N820/N821 and as four flashes of the red light on Polar N7/N8 models.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold 1200XX / 120X-IMXX Refrigerator Service Manual, \"Sr CL - AC rE Fault Code - AC relay stuck closed\" (p. 11)", "publisher": "Thetford Corp. / Norcold, Inc. (OEM), Publication No. 618968B", "url": "http://www.janeandjohn.org/docs/Norcold1200Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "618968B p.11: \"Sr\" and \"CL\" flashing with AC LED flashing, or \"AC\" and \"rE\" flashing = AC relay stuck closed. Replace power board." }, { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual, Fault Codes table", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc. (OEM), Publication 619394E", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Norcold-N6xx_N8xx-Series-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "N640/N641/N840/N841 table: \"AC\" \"rE\" = AC relay is stuck closed; \"H\" on N620/N621/N820/N821" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-30", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "AC HE", "code_slug": "ac-he", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/ac-he/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "AC heater fault. The control cannot run the 120V AC heating element correctly, indicating the element, its wiring, or the power board is at fault while on shore/generator AC power.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed (open) AC heating element", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown glass AC fuse on the rear power board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or wrong AC heater connection", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty rear power board when the element measures correctly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Disconnect AC (shore power and generator) before touching anything at the rear", "Visually confirm the AC heater wires are seated and not burned at the connectors", "Check the glass AC fuse on the rear power board for continuity", "With power removed, measure the AC heating element resistance with an ohmmeter; on 1200/1210 models it should read about 64 ohms" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the fault after repair by turning the fridge OFF then ON", "If a power-board reset is needed, disconnect both the 12V DC wires and the AC cord at the board, wait, then reconnect" ], "affected_models": [ "1200", "1201", "1210", "1211" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "120V AC can be lethal. Always disconnect shore power and generator before inspecting or measuring at the rear power board, and never test the element while energized.", "call_tech_when": "The element measures near 64 ohms (good) but AC HE persists, suggesting a power board replacement, or you are not comfortable working around 120V wiring.", "caveats": "64 ohms is the spec for 1200/1210; other Norcold families use different values (e.g. ~48 ohms), so do not apply the wrong target. Same fault shows as 'H' or a 3-flash pattern on other models.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Fault Codes AC HE, H, or On light flashing 3 times (What to do!)", "publisher": "RV Fridge Guys", "url": "https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-fault-codes-ac-he-h-or-on-light-flashing-3-times-what-to-do/", "manualRef": "AC HE AC heater fault, 64 ohm spec for 1200/1210" }, { "title": "Norcold 121x Series Service Manual", "publisher": "Norcold / MyRVWorks", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Norcold-121x-Service-Manual-02-18-05.pdf", "manualRef": "AC heater fault diagnostics" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "dc LO / dc HI", "code_slug": "dc-lo-dc-hi", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/dc-lo-dc-hi/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "DC voltage faults. 'dc LO' means the 12V DC voltage supplied to the refrigerator is too low; 'dc HI' means it is too high. On 3-way models, 'dc rE' indicates a DC relay stuck closed and 'dc HE' indicates the DC heater failed open. These flag a problem with the 12V supply or DC heating circuit rather than the cooling unit itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "RV 12V supply out of range - acceptable input is about 10.5 to 15.4 Vdc; converter or battery delivering low or high voltage", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Weak/discharged battery, poor connections, or voltage drop on the DC feed (dc LO)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Converter/charger overvoltage or alternator overcharge (dc HI)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "DC heater open or DC relay stuck closed on 3-way models (dc HE / dc rE)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the 12V supply to the fridge; it should sit roughly between 10.5 and 15.4 volts.", "Note whether the fault appears only when running on the converter/shore power vs. battery, which helps isolate the source.", "Make sure no other appliance or lighting load is sharing/dragging the fridge's DC circuit.", "Check battery state of charge and clean, tight DC connections for low-voltage faults." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the DC supply voltage (charge battery, fix connections, or address converter output) and the fault should clear on the next cycle.", "dc HE / dc rE (heater open / relay stuck) on 3-way models require technician diagnosis of the DC heater and board." ], "affected_models": [ "N62X/N82X", "N64X/N84X", "N6XX/N8XX 3-way models (for dc rE/dc HE)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect DC power before working on wiring. The DC heater circuit can carry high current (protected by the 30A F2 fuse); do not bypass protection. If the fridge is also on LP gas, normal propane precautions apply.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if the DC voltage measures in range but the dc LO/dc HI code persists, or for dc rE / dc HE faults (stuck relay or open DC heater) which involve the power board and heater on 3-way units.", "caveats": "dc rE and dc HE apply only to 3-way (12V-heater) models. Display wording is from N62X/N82X and N64X/N84X manuals; N61X/N81X represent these via LED patterns. Voltage thresholds (10.5-15.4 Vdc) are the manual's stated input range.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc.", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Norcold-Refrigerator-NXXXXX-Service-Manual-Publication-Number-619394E.pdf", "manualRef": "Publication 619394E, 'dc LO Fault Code – Low DC voltage' (p.13), 'dc HI Fault Code – DC voltage high' (p.14), 'dc rE' / 'dc HE' (3-way models, pp.14-15); Displayed Fault Codes tables (pp.8-9). Acceptable input 10.5-15.4 Vdc." } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "dr", "code_slug": "dr", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/dr/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Door-open alarm. The refrigerator door has been left open longer than about two minutes, so the control flags it (often with an audible alert) to prevent warming and condensation.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Door physically left open or not latched", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Worn or misaligned door gasket / latch not engaging the switch", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty door-position sensor or switch", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure the door is fully closed and the latch clicks shut", "Check the door gasket for damage or gaps and that nothing inside blocks the door", "Confirm the door is sitting square in the opening" ], "reset_steps": [ "Close the door fully; the alarm and 'dr' code clear automatically once the door registers as shut" ], "affected_models": [ "1200", "1201", "1210", "1211", "2117", "2118" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is an informational alert with no gas/electrical hazard. No tools or power work needed.", "call_tech_when": "'dr' continues to show with the door firmly closed and latched, suggesting a failed door switch/sensor.", "caveats": "Some panels show this as a door icon plus audible beep rather than the literal text 'dr'; behavior is the same.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold 1210 Owner's Manual (629510B), Fault Code table", "publisher": "Norcold / PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Norcold-Owners-Manual-1210-Series-629510B.pdf", "manualRef": "dr = door open more than 2 minutes" }, { "title": "Fault Codes - Norcold 1210 Installation Manual (p.22)", "publisher": "Norcold / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/327885/Norcold-1210.html?page=22", "manualRef": "Door open alarm fault code" } ], "confidence": 0.83, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "F1 / F2 / F3", "code_slug": "f1-f2-f3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/f1-f2-f3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Indicates an open (blown) fuse on the power board, each protecting a different circuit. F1 (5A control-circuit fuse) open means the board has no control power and the display can go blank. F2 (30A DC-heater fuse) open means the DC heater circuit is dead (the fridge won't cool on DC). F3 (5A AC-heater fuse) open means the AC heater circuit is dead and is reported together with the 'no AC' condition.", "causes": [ { "cause": "F1 (5A control fuse) blown - leads to blank display / no control power", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "F3 (5A AC-heater fuse) blown - shows up with the 'no AC' / AC-heater-failed-open condition", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "F2 (30A DC-heater fuse) blown - fridge will not cool on DC (3-way/DC operation)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Underlying short or failed heater element causing the fuse to blow repeatedly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the matching power-board fuse: F1 = 5A (tan automotive blade), F2 = 30A (green automotive blade) for DC heater, F3 = 5A AGC glass fuse for the AC heater.", "A completely blank display with no 12V symptoms often points to an open F1 fuse or loss of 12Vdc to the fridge.", "Always replace a blown fuse with the exact same type and amperage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Replace the specific open fuse with an identical-rated fuse after disconnecting power.", "If the new fuse blows again, stop - there is an underlying short or failed heater that needs diagnosis." ], "affected_models": [ "N61X/N81X", "N62X/N82X", "N64X/N84X", "N6XX/N8XX series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect both AC and DC power before touching the power board or fuses. Never bypass a fuse or fit a higher amperage - these fuses protect against fire. The F3/AC circuit involves 120V; the F2 circuit carries high DC current to the heater.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if a replacement fuse blows again immediately (indicates a shorted or failed heater element or board), or if you are not comfortable identifying and safely replacing power-board fuses.", "caveats": "F1/F2/F3 are physical power-board fuses; they are not always shown as a literal alphanumeric 'F1' code on the user display. On N62X/N82X and N64X/N84X an open fuse manifests as related display codes (e.g., blank screen for F1, the 'no AC' grouping for F3). Treat 'F#' here as the fuse/circuit identity from the service manual rather than a guaranteed on-screen string.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc.", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Norcold-Refrigerator-NXXXXX-Service-Manual-Publication-Number-619394E.pdf", "manualRef": "Publication 619394E, Specifications (fuse ratings: F1 5A control, F2 30A DC heater, F3 5A AC heater); Troubleshooting tables: 'F1 fuse in power board open', 'F2 fuse in power board open... refrigerator does not cool', 'F3 fuse in the power board open' (pp.5-6)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Li OP", "code_slug": "li-op", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/li-op/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The high-temperature limit (thermal) switch has opened, or the connection at the LIMIT IN / LIMIT OUT terminals on the rear power board is broken. The switch is a safety device that cuts power to the heat sources if the flue/boiler area gets too hot, so this code can indicate a real overheat condition.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Thermal limit switch tripped after running the RV off-level for a long time (overheated cooling unit / flue)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or broken wire at the LIMIT IN / LIMIT OUT terminals on the rear power board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Missing jumper on models that don't use a thermal switch in that position", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed power board or dirty/unstable supply voltage with the switch still intact", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure the RV is reasonably level and let the fridge cool down fully before doing anything else", "With power off, visually inspect the LIMIT IN / LIMIT OUT wires at the rear power board for a loose or disconnected connection", "Do NOT reset or bypass the thermal switch until the reason it tripped is understood" ], "reset_steps": [ "This is treated as dealer/qualified-service territory; do not simply reset and keep running it", "If a loose LIMIT wire is found and reseated, a power-board power-down (disconnect 12V and AC) may be needed to clear the latched fault" ], "affected_models": [ "1200", "1201", "1210", "1211", "2117", "2118" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Li OP is a fire-prevention safety trip. A tripped thermal switch can mean the cooling unit overheated, which is a known fire-risk condition on absorption fridges. Do not bypass the switch or run the fridge until the cause is diagnosed.", "call_tech_when": "The switch has actually tripped, the cause is unclear, you smell ammonia, see yellow residue/soot on the cooling unit, or the code persists after checking connections. Treat as not owner-serviceable.", "caveats": "Owner's manuals label this code 'not owner serviceable / dealer only.' Same condition appears as 'O' or a 6-flash pattern on other Norcold model families.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Fault Codes LI OP, O, or 6 flashes (potential fire hazard!)", "publisher": "RV Fridge Guys", "url": "https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-fault-codes-li-op-o-or-6-flashes-potential-fire-hazard/", "manualRef": "Norcold technical blog, Li OP / high-temp limit" }, { "title": "Norcold 1200 (1200,1201,1210,1211) LiOP Error", "publisher": "Flashbye / Norcold service reference", "url": "https://flashbye.com/Norcold%20LiOP.pdf", "manualRef": "LiOP high temp limit switch open" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "no AC", "code_slug": "no-ac", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/no-ac/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "No usable 120V AC power is reaching the heater. The control reports that AC power is not available to the refrigerator. In AUTO mode the fridge will normally try to fall back to LP gas; the code flags that the electric (AC) heat source is unavailable.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shore/generator AC power is off, or the fridge's AC cord is not plugged into the power board / its outlet", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Tripped breaker or GFCI on the AC circuit feeding the fridge", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "F3 fuse (AC heater circuit, 5A AGC) in the power board is open/blown", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "AC heater element failed open or a power-board AC relay fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the RV actually has 120V AC (shore power connected or generator running) and the relevant breaker/GFCI is not tripped.", "Confirm the refrigerator's AC power cord is fully plugged in at its outlet.", "On N64X/N84X the no-AC condition is accompanied by an audible alarm; in AUTO mode the fridge should switch itself to LP gas if available." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore/plug in AC power; on AC-only or AUTO models the code typically clears once valid AC returns.", "If AC is confirmed present but the code stays, the F3 (5A) AC-heater fuse or AC heater may need checking by a technician." ], "affected_models": [ "N61X/N81X", "N62X/N82X", "N64X/N84X", "N6XX/N8XX series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "120V AC work is hazardous. Turn off and disconnect AC (and DC) power before opening the power board or checking fuses/heater. Do not bypass or upsize fuses. If the fridge falls back to LP gas, normal propane precautions apply: if you smell gas, stop and ventilate.", "call_tech_when": "Call a technician if AC power is confirmed present and properly connected but the no-AC code persists, or if the F3 fuse blows repeatedly (possible shorted AC heater), since that points to a power-board or heater fault rather than a supply problem.", "caveats": "On N61X/N81X this is indicated by LED flash patterns rather than a 'no AC' text readout. The same fault table groups several distinct causes (no supply, unplugged cord, open F3 fuse) under one displayed code, so the code alone does not tell you which one.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc.", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Norcold-Refrigerator-NXXXXX-Service-Manual-Publication-Number-619394E.pdf", "manualRef": "Publication 619394E, Displayed Fault Codes tables: 'No AC power available to refrigerator. AC cord not plugged into power board. F3 fuse open' (N62X/N82X p.8, N64X/N84X p.9); 'A/no AC Fault Code – No AC power available' (p.16)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "no CO", "code_slug": "no-co", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/no-co/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "The control board's cooling-system monitor detected that the refrigerator is not actually cooling while a heat source (AC, LP gas, or DC) is running. As a safety measure the controls shut off (lock out) all heat sources so the cooling unit cannot keep heating without ammonia/refrigerant circulating. On N61X/N81X models this same condition is shown as the ON LED flashing five times every three seconds rather than text.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Refrigerator operated off-level beyond limits (max ~3 deg side-to-side, ~6 deg front-to-back), stopping gravity refrigerant flow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blocked ventilation behind/above the fridge (debris, insect screen, plastic sheeting, stored items, missing roof/sidewall vent opening) causing overheating", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Cooling unit fault, ammonia/refrigerant blockage, or refrigerant leak (yellow powder/liquid at rear, ammonia smell)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control board / sensor reading the cooling system incorrectly, triggering a false no-cool fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is parked reasonably level; the fridge must be level to cool by gravity flow.", "Turn the refrigerator OFF, wait, then back ON. The first recorded no-cool fault can be user-cleared this way, which gives you a chance to find the problem.", "Check that the rear/roof/sidewall vents are completely clear of debris, insect screens, plastic, or stored items blocking airflow.", "Give the cooling unit several hours after a fix; it can take roughly four hours of run time to reach normal operating temperature.", "Look (carefully) at the back of the fridge for yellow powder/residue or an ammonia odor inside, which indicates a leaking cooling unit." ], "reset_steps": [ "FIRST occurrence only: turn the refrigerator OFF then ON; completing a full cooling cycle clears the recorded fault from memory automatically.", "If the no-cool fault has been recorded TWICE (consecutive), the controls hard-lock all heat sources and the simple off/on reset will NOT work.", "A locked board requires the manual power-board reset: power off, disconnect 12Vdc, AC cord, gas valve and electrode wires; remove the board cover; reconnect 12Vdc; power on; with an insulated 22 AWG jumper, short Pin 15 of the 16-pin connector P1 to the board ground lug for 10-15 seconds until a click is heard; power off; reconnect everything; this is intended to be done by a service technician after the cooling fault is diagnosed." ], "affected_models": [ "N61X/N81X", "N62X/N82X", "N64X/N84X", "N641", "N821", "N841", "N6XX/N8XX series (N-series gas/electric absorption fridges)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is an absorption fridge running on LP gas (propane) and/or electric heaters. If you smell propane or strong ammonia, stop, shut off the LP supply, ventilate, and do not create sparks or flames. A repeated no-cool lockout can indicate a failing cooling unit; ignoring it and forcing the heaters on defeats a safety feature meant to prevent overheating/fire. Turn off and disconnect both AC and DC power before working on any electrical component.", "call_tech_when": "Call a qualified Norcold service center if the no-cool fault returns after one off/on reset, if the board is hard-locked (second recorded fault), if you see yellow residue or smell ammonia (leaking cooling unit), or if the fridge still will not cool after confirming it is level and vented. The Pin-15 power-board reset and cooling-unit diagnosis are intended for a technician.", "caveats": "Exact display wording varies by sub-model: N61X/N81X show a 5-blink ON-LED pattern, while N62X/N82X and N64X/N84X show text ('no co' / 'n'). Pin/connector details (Pin 15 of P1) are from the official manual but board revisions differ; verify against the manual for your serial number before performing the reset.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc.", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Norcold-Refrigerator-NXXXXX-Service-Manual-Publication-Number-619394E.pdf", "manualRef": "Publication 619394E, Displayed Fault Codes tables (pp.7-10); 'n/no co Fault Code' and Power Board Resetting Procedure (p.21); Cooling System Monitoring / First and Two Recorded No Cooling Fault Occurrence (p.37)" }, { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual (newreset2)", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc. (hosted by BryantRV)", "url": "https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/newreset2.pdf", "manualRef": "'n/no co Fault Code – No cooling detected by the controls'; power board reset procedure" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "no FL", "code_slug": "no-fl", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/no-fl/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The refrigerator tried to run on LP/propane (gas) mode but the control board did not detect a burner flame. In Norcold's own words it means the burner did not ignite, or it lit but the flame went out and could not re-ignite, so the gas safety valve closed and the fridge stopped on gas. The display shows the two segments 'no' and 'FL' (no FLame), usually with an audible alarm.", "causes": [ { "cause": "No or low propane supply reaching the fridge (empty/closed cylinder, closed valve, regulator issue, or air in the line after a refill)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Dirty, clogged, or partially blocked burner orifice or burner tube (spiders, soot, dust) so the flame won't light or won't stay lit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Igniter electrode gap wrong or electrode dirty/corroded, so it sparks but the flame never establishes", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Flame-sense circuit fault on the power board or a bad/loose electrode-to-board connection, so a real flame is not 'seen' (board keeps sparking after lit)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "AC power dropped out (below roughly 85VAC) forcing the fridge into auto gas mode, then gas failed to light", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed or sticking gas safety solenoid valve", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm propane is actually available: light a stovetop burner or another LP appliance in the RV and verify it runs steadily. If the cylinder was just refilled, the line may need a few ignition attempts to purge air.", "Make sure the LP cylinder valve is fully open and the regulator/changeover is set correctly.", "Push the MODE button to silence the alarm, then clear the fault by turning the fridge OFF and back ON (press ON/OFF twice). Allow up to ~30 seconds for gas ignition on a restart.", "Visually check the exterior lower vent/burner access area for obvious spider webs, nests, or debris around the burner (only if cool and accessible — do not disassemble gas components).", "Make sure the RV is reasonably level, since absorption cooling and ignition can be affected by extreme tilt.", "If it repeatedly fails after 2-3 restart attempts, stop and have the burner/orifice and flame-sense circuit serviced rather than forcing it." ], "reset_steps": [ "Press MODE to silence the audible alarm.", "Press the ON/OFF button to turn the refrigerator OFF.", "Press ON/OFF again to turn it back ON (the manual notes the 'no FL' code stays until the unit is stopped and restarted this way).", "Wait up to ~30 seconds for gas ignition. If it does not light after 2-3 tries, check the gas supply and have it serviced." ], "affected_models": [ "N641", "N642", "N641-IM", "N841", "N842", "N841-IM", "NX641", "NXA641", "NX841", "NXA841", "1200", "1210", "1211", "2117", "2118", "(N620/N621/N820/N821 and older N4xx/N5xx units show the equivalent fault as a single 'F' or as the GAS light flashing instead of the 'no FL' text)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane (LP gas) appliance. If you ever smell gas, hear a hissing leak, or suspect a leak, do NOT attempt to light or restart the fridge: shut off the LP cylinder valve, ventilate, avoid sparks/flames, and leave the area before getting help. Do not disassemble or repair gas supply components, the burner orifice, or the gas safety valve yourself unless qualified — leaking propane can ignite or explode.", "call_tech_when": "Call a qualified RV technician if propane is confirmed available but the fridge still shows 'no FL' after a couple of off/on resets, if the burner won't light or won't stay lit, if you suspect a clogged orifice or a flame-sense/power-board fault, or any time you smell gas.", "caveats": "Meaning, model coverage, and the 'push ON/OFF twice' reset are directly confirmed by Norcold's own service manuals. The 'F' single-letter display and the flashing GAS light on older models (N4xx/N5xx, N611/N811, N620/N621/N820/N821) are the equivalent flame-not-sensed fault rather than the literal 'no FL' text. Specific cause likelihoods are a reasonable field-experience synthesis, not a ranked list published by Norcold. Always verify the exact procedure against the manual for your specific model number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold Service Manual for N620/N621/N640/N641/N820/N821/N840/N841 (and -IM ice-maker variants)", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc. (OEM), hosted by MyRVWorks", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Norcold-N6xx_N8xx-Series-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Part No. 619394 (5-98), Fault Codes section: '\"no\" \"FL\" — The burner did not ignite or reignite — Refer to LP Gas Ignition Failure'; operation section: fault remains until ON/OFF is pushed twice" }, { "title": "Norcold 2118IM Service Manual — No AC, No FL fault description", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc. (OEM), via ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1571471/Norcold-2118im.html?page=18", "manualRef": "Page 18: NO FL = power board detects AC input below 85VAC, switches to LP Gas Mode, and cannot detect a flame in Auto Gas Mode" }, { "title": "Norcold Fault Codes F, no FL, or gas light flashing every second (LP/Flame Problems)", "publisher": "RV Fridge Guys (RV refrigerator repair specialists)", "url": "https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-fault-codes-f-no-fl-or-gas-light-flashing-every-second-lp-flame-problems/", "manualRef": "Lists affected models (N641/N642/NX641/NXA641/N841/N842/NX841/NXA841/1200/1210/1211/2117/2118) and burner/electrode/flame-sense diagnostics" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "norcold", "brand_name": "Norcold", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Sr FS / Sr", "code_slug": "sr-fs", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/norcold/refrigerator/sr-fs/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The flame-sense circuit inside the control has failed, so the refrigerator can no longer tell reliably whether the gas burner is alight. This is a fault of the sensing electronics, not of the fuel supply. The older LED panel alternates \"Sr\" and \"FS\" with the AC LED flashing; the LCD panel simply flashes \"Sr\".", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed flame-sense circuit on the rear power board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged or shorted spark/sense lead between the electrode and the board", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Cycle the refrigerator OFF and ON to confirm the code returns rather than being a one-off", "With the fridge off and cool, check the spark/sense lead at the burner for chafing, soot or a loose spade connector" ], "reset_steps": [ "Cycle the refrigerator OFF and ON once to rule out a momentary glitch", "A repeating fault is board-level and will not clear with a normal reset" ], "affected_models": [ "1200", "1201", "1210", "1211", "N640/N641/N840/N841 (shown as \"Sr\")", "N620/N621/N820/N821 (shown as the letter \"S\")" ], "related_codes": [ "no-fl", "ac-re" ], "safety_note": "This fault sits in the circuit that confirms whether the burner is lit, so treat propane work cautiously: if you smell gas, shut off the LP supply and ventilate before doing anything else. Board replacement is qualified-service work.", "call_tech_when": "The code returns after a power cycle. Norcold's instruction for this fault is to replace the power board.", "caveats": "Added on 2026-08-30 during a correction pass. Do not confuse it with \"no FL\", which means the burner did not light at all (a fuel, gas-pressure or ignition problem), or with \"AC rE\" / \"Sr CL\", which is the AC relay stuck closed. On Polar N7/N8 models the controls report their internal faults as two or three flashes instead, and a flame sensed when none should be present is five flashes.", "sources": [ { "title": "Norcold 1200XX / 120X-IMXX Refrigerator Service Manual, \"Sr FS - Sr Fault Code - Flame sense circuit failure\" (p. 10)", "publisher": "Thetford Corp. / Norcold, Inc. (OEM), Publication No. 618968B", "url": "http://www.janeandjohn.org/docs/Norcold1200Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "618968B p.10: \"Sr\" and \"FS\" flashing with AC LED flashing, or \"Sr\" flashing = flame sense circuit failure. Replace power board." }, { "title": "Norcold N6XX/N8XX Models Refrigerator Service Manual, Fault Codes table", "publisher": "Norcold, Inc. (OEM), Publication 619394E", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Norcold-N6xx_N8xx-Series-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "N640/N641/N840/N841: \"Sr\" = flame sense circuit has failed; N620/N621/N820/N821: \"S\" = flame sense circuit has failed" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-30", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 2 (Low Oil)", "code_slug": "fault-2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-2/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Low oil pressure — a first-level fault shown as two blinks. The Quiet Diesel manual defines it precisely: oil pressure dropped below 14 psi for three seconds during normal operation. The controller shuts the engine down rather than let it run without pressure.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Engine oil level low", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Operating on a steep slope so the pickup is uncovered", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Overfilled oil (above the Full mark) causing aeration", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Faulty oil-pressure cutoff switch or actual low oil pressure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the engine off and cool and the RV reasonably level, check the dipstick and add oil to the Full mark if low.", "If overfilled above the Full mark, drain the excess.", "Make sure the RV is roughly level when running the genset.", "If the dipstick reads above Full, drain the excess: too much oil lets the crankshaft whip it into foam, and a pump cannot pump foam." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the oil level first, then restart.", "The fault is logged; press Stop three times within 5 seconds to re-display it. It clears on the next successful run cycle.", "Note: code 2 (and code 3 and 4) are FIRST-level codes - do not misread two blinks as a second-level code 22, three as 33, or four as 44." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series RV gensets", "Onan blink-code-controller RV gensets" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-1", "fault-3", "fault-36" ], "safety_note": "Running with genuinely low oil pressure can destroy the engine - do not bypass this shutdown. Let hot engine parts cool before checking oil. Combustion engine: if you smell gas/propane, stop and ventilate; never run enclosed (carbon monoxide).", "call_tech_when": "Oil level is correct and the RV is level but code 2 keeps shutting the unit down (possible faulty cutoff switch or real low oil pressure) - see an authorized Onan dealer.", "caveats": "Two blinks is a first-level fault on liquid-cooled Quiet Diesel sets. The air-cooled KY and KYD operator manuals document only three and four blinks at that level, so on a gasoline or LPG set a count of two is usually a miscount — watch a full cycle and find the long pause. Do not read two blinks as second-level code 22 either; codes 33 and 44 are unassigned precisely so first-level and second-level counts cannot collide.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan RV Generator Troubleshooting Codes (Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins/Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "TABLE 5 - LOW OIL PRESSURE FAULT-CODE NO. 2 (first-level; cutoff switch did not open)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 3", "code_slug": "fault-3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Service check — a first-level fault shown as three blinks. Three blinks is not the fault itself: it tells you the controller has stored a two-digit second-level code. Press Stop once and the light blinks the tens digit, pauses, then the units digit.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Any logged second-level fault condition (the controller flashes 3 to signal one exists)", "likelihood": "most-likely" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Press the Stop button on the generator control switch once to make the hidden two-digit fault code blink out (tens digit, brief pause, units digit).", "Count the blinks carefully and write the two-digit number down, then look that number up.", "Note: Code 3 and Code 4 are genuine single-digit first-level faults — do not mistake them for second-level codes 33 or 44, which Onan never assigned." ], "reset_steps": [ "After reading the underlying two-digit code, address that specific fault.", "Press Stop to stop the blinking; the controller clears the indication once the start sequence succeeds again." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-4", "fault-36", "fault-32", "fault-13" ], "safety_note": "Many gensets are mounted under the coach and run on gasoline or LPG. Before any hands-on work, stop the generator, let it cool, and disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. LPG and gasoline vapors are explosion hazards — never work near an ignition source.", "call_tech_when": "If you cannot read out or interpret the second-level code, or the underlying code calls for a dealer.", "caveats": "Do not read three blinks as code 33. Cummins left 33 and 44 unassigned on purpose so that the first-level three and four blinks can never be confused with a second-level code. If pressing Stop produces nothing, the display may simply have timed out — press Stop three times within five seconds to bring it back.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 5, Troubleshooting — Service Check Fault Code No. 3" }, { "title": "RV Generator Handbook (Cummins Onan)", "publisher": "Cummins Power Generation", "url": "https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/15818_onangeneratormanualemail.pdf", "manualRef": "Fault Codes — blink-code readout procedure" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Cummins Onan RV Generator Handbook (2019 edition)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (hosted by Forest River)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Generator/Onan%20-%20Generator%20Handbook%20(2019).pdf", "manualRef": "Fault Codes, p. 38" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 12", "code_slug": "fault-12", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-12/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overvoltage fault. The controller could not keep the output voltage at the rated value (output voltage too high) and shut the genset down. Read as one blink, a pause, then two blinks.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Controller / voltage regulation fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage-sensing circuit problem", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the blink pattern is 1 then 2 (overvoltage 12), not 1 then 3 (undervoltage 13).", "Avoid running sensitive electronics until resolved, since voltage may be out of spec." ], "reset_steps": [ "Official corrective action: see an authorized Onan dealer.", "Re-read the logged code with three Stop presses within 5 seconds (code stops blinking after ~5 minutes)." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series RV gensets", "Onan blink-code-controller RV gensets" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-13", "fault-27", "fault-29" ], "safety_note": "Generator output is line-voltage AC and can be lethal. Do not open the genset or work on output wiring. This is also a fuel-burning engine - if you smell gas/propane, stop and ventilate; never run enclosed (carbon monoxide).", "call_tech_when": "The manual directs code 12 to an authorized Onan dealer - overvoltage is not a homeowner repair.", "caveats": "The Quiet Diesel manual gives the trip points the air-cooled manuals leave out: output above 150 VAC, 125 % of rated, for 75 milliseconds, or above 138 VAC, 115 % of rated, for three seconds. Both manuals send this one to a dealer.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan RV Generator Troubleshooting Codes (Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins/Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "TABLE 5 - OVERVOLTAGE FAULT-CODE NO. 12 (Controller unable to maintain rated voltage)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 13", "code_slug": "fault-13", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-13/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Undervoltage fault. The controller could not hold the generator's AC output at rated voltage — usually because the connected electrical load is dragging the output down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many appliances drawing at once (air conditioners plus active battery/inverter chargers)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "High-draw charger running as a hidden load while other loads are on", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal voltage-regulation or winding fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn off some appliances — especially air conditioners and any battery/inverter charger — and restart.", "Lower the battery charge rate on your inverter/charger if it is pulling a large 'invisible' load.", "Verify the total connected wattage is within the generator's rating." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the load, then restart the generator from the control switch.", "If it runs and holds voltage with fewer loads, add loads back gradually." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-15", "fault-12", "fault-38" ], "safety_note": "Do not poke inside the generator's AC wiring while it runs — output voltages can injure or kill. Stop the unit and disconnect the negative battery cable before opening any panel.", "call_tech_when": "If undervoltage persists with only a modest load connected — that points to a regulator or generator-end fault needing a dealer.", "caveats": "Defined on the Quiet Diesel as output falling below 108 VAC — 90 % of rated — for five seconds. The manufacturer's own first corrective action is to run fewer loads, so treat this as an overload symptom before suspecting the generator.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Undervoltage Fault — Code No. 13" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 14", "code_slug": "fault-14", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-14/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overfrequency fault. The engine governor could not hold the rated output frequency and the engine ran too fast (output frequency too high). Read as one blink, a pause, then four blinks.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Engine governor unable to maintain rated speed/frequency", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Governor actuator or controller fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Fuel-delivery irregularity (e.g., on LPG, oil migration affecting fueling)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note when it occurs (idle vs. load).", "Do not adjust the governor yourself - the manual directs this to a dealer." ], "reset_steps": [ "Official corrective action: see an authorized Onan dealer.", "Re-read the stored code by pressing Stop three times within 5 seconds (code stops blinking after ~5 minutes)." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series RV gensets", "Onan blink-code-controller RV gensets" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-15", "fault-19", "fault-45" ], "safety_note": "Combustion engine - if you smell gasoline or propane, stop and ventilate before doing anything. Let hot parts cool; never operate in an enclosed space (carbon monoxide).", "call_tech_when": "The manufacturer lists 'see an authorized Onan dealer' for code 14 - governor/frequency faults are not a DIY fix.", "caveats": "Quiet Diesel definition: frequency above 70 Hz for 40 milliseconds, or above 66 Hz for six seconds, measured after the starter was engaged. A circuit breaker tripping under load can make frequency overshoot and produce this code without anything being wrong with the governor.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan RV Generator Troubleshooting Codes (Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins/Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "TABLE 5 - OVERFREQUENCY FAULT-CODE NO. 14 (Engine governor unable to maintain rated frequency)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 15", "code_slug": "fault-15", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-15/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Underfrequency fault. The engine governor could not keep the engine spinning fast enough to maintain rated output frequency (Hz), so the controller shut the unit down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Excessive electrical load overworking the engine/governor (A/C plus chargers)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "On high-pressure LPG models: oil migrated from the supply system into the genset LPG plumbing, starving fuel", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Air cleaner restriction or a fuel-delivery problem limiting power", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Reduce the number of connected appliances, especially air conditioners and active battery chargers, then restart.", "On high-pressure LPG models only: with the system depressurized, drain accumulated oil from the genset LPG drain valve per the manual, then be sure to re-close the drain valve.", "Check that the air cleaner is not clogged." ], "reset_steps": [ "Shed load and/or clear the LPG oil, then restart from the control switch.", "Confirm the unit holds frequency under your normal load." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-13", "fault-22", "fault-14" ], "safety_note": "Draining the LPG system involves propane — do it outdoors, away from any flame or spark, with the generator off and cool. Propane is heavier than air and pools underneath the coach. Re-close the drain valve fully before restarting.", "call_tech_when": "If underfrequency continues after reducing load and (on LPG units) draining oil — the governor or fuel system likely needs a dealer.", "caveats": "Quiet Diesel definition: frequency below 54 Hz for more than eight seconds during normal operation. As with code 13, the manufacturer's first corrective action is fewer connected loads — especially motor starting loads.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Underfrequency Fault — Code No. 15" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 19", "code_slug": "fault-19", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-19/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Governor actuator fault. The controller detected an open or shorted circuit in the electronic governor actuator that regulates engine speed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open or short in the governor actuator or its wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed governor actuator", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Visually inspect for obvious damaged or disconnected wiring near the governor actuator (with the generator off and battery negative disconnected).", "Note the code and how often it recurs to help the technician." ], "reset_steps": [ "This is a dealer-service fault; no owner reset clears the underlying cause." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-22", "fault-15" ], "safety_note": "Do not attempt to adjust or repair the governor yourself; improper governor work can cause overspeed and serious damage or injury. Disconnect the negative battery cable before any inspection.", "call_tech_when": "Whenever Code 19 appears — the manufacturer directs this to an authorized Onan dealer.", "caveats": "Documented on the liquid-cooled Quiet Diesel sets, which measure the actuator circuit at startup; the manual gives 2.8 to 2.9 ohms across the actuator leads as the expected resistance. Do not confuse it with code 22, which is a healthy actuator held at full duty cycle by too much load — that one is fixed by the operator, this one by a dealer.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Governor Actuator Fault — Code No. 19" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 27", "code_slug": "fault-27", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-27/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Voltage sense fault. The controller was unable to sense the generator's output voltage, so it shut down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal voltage-sensing circuit or control fault", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Wiring fault in the output-voltage sensing path", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the code by reading the two-digit readout after the Code 3 service flash.", "Check that the generator's main breaker is set correctly and that obvious output connections are intact (generator off, battery negative disconnected)." ], "reset_steps": [ "This fault generally requires diagnosis by a dealer; there is no owner adjustment that clears the root cause." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-12", "fault-13", "fault-45" ], "safety_note": "Generator AC output can be lethal. Never probe live output terminals. Stop the unit and disconnect the negative battery cable before opening panels.", "call_tech_when": "Whenever Code 27 appears — Onan directs this to an authorized dealer.", "caveats": "The Quiet Diesel manual is specific about when the controller decides this: AC sensing was lost while the field was working normally and frequency was at least 40 Hz — so the engine was running fine and only the sensing path failed. That is why it points at the voltage sense transformer and its wiring rather than at the engine.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Voltage Sense Fault — Code No. 27" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 29", "code_slug": "fault-29", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-29/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "High battery voltage fault. The voltage across the genset's starting battery system was above roughly 19 volts — typically because the batteries got wired in series (24V) instead of parallel (12V), or a charger is boosting too hard.", "causes": [ { "cause": "12V batteries serving the genset accidentally connected in series (24V) rather than parallel", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Battery boost/charge rate set too high", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the genset battery bank connections and confirm the 12V batteries are wired in parallel (12V), not in series (24V).", "Lower the battery boost charge rate if your charger offers that setting.", "Measure battery voltage with a meter; it should be near 12-14V, not approaching 19V+." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the battery wiring or charge rate, then restart the generator from the control switch." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-32", "fault-12" ], "safety_note": "Battery work risks short-circuit sparks and acid exposure. Remove rings/watches, wear eye protection, and disconnect the negative (-) cable first, reconnect it last. A 24V mis-wire can damage the genset's 12V electronics.", "call_tech_when": "If the wiring is confirmed correct and the charge rate is sensible but Code 29 persists.", "caveats": "The KY manual gives the threshold as 'greater than 19 volts'. The Quiet Diesel manual is tighter: above 19.2 V for 5 milliseconds during startup, or above 19.2 V for one second while running. The usual cause is the same either way — genset batteries wired in series for 24 V instead of parallel for 12 V, or a boost charge rate set too high.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "High Battery Voltage Fault — Code No. 29 (>19 volts)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 31", "code_slug": "fault-31", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-31/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Overspeed fault. The engine speed exceeded 3400 rpm, so the controller shut the generator down to protect it. Read as three blinks, a pause, then one blink.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Governor or governor-actuator malfunction allowing engine to run away", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Controller / speed-sensing fault", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Throttle/linkage or fuel system fault driving speed too high", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note the conditions when it tripped, but do not attempt to defeat or readjust the governor yourself.", "Confirm the code by reading the blink pattern (3 then 1) to be sure it is overspeed (31) and not engine-stopped (36)." ], "reset_steps": [ "The official corrective action is to see an authorized Onan dealer - overspeed is not a homeowner adjustment.", "To re-read the logged code, press Stop three times within 5 seconds (the code stops blinking after about 5 minutes)." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series RV gensets", "Onan blink-code-controller RV gensets (HGJAA/HGJAB-class)" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-36", "fault-14", "fault-19" ], "safety_note": "An over-speeding engine can fail violently. Keep clear and do not run it. This is a fuel-burning engine - if you smell gas or propane, stop and ventilate; never run in an enclosed space due to carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "Always for overspeed - the manufacturer directs you to an authorized Onan/Cummins dealer rather than DIY repair.", "caveats": "Overspeed is the true meaning of 31, and it is frequently confused with 36. Worth knowing where it applies: code 31 appears in Onan troubleshooting tables for other series, but it is in neither the KY (Spec J–N) operator manual nor the HDKCA/HDKCB Quiet Diesel manual. Check the table for your own model and spec letter before acting on it.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan RV Generator Troubleshooting Codes (Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins/Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "TABLE 5 - OVERSPEED FAULT-CODE NO. 31 (Engine speed greater than 3400 rpm)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.96, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 32", "code_slug": "fault-32", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-32/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Low cranking speed fault. During start the engine cranked slower than about 180 rpm for more than two seconds — usually a weak battery, bad connections, or thick cold oil.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Weak or discharged starting battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded battery/ground cable connections at the battery or genset", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Engine oil too thick for the ambient temperature (high viscosity slows cranking)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Clean and tighten the positive (+) and negative (-) battery cable connections at both the battery and the genset.", "Recharge or replace the battery per its manufacturer's recommendations.", "In cold weather, make sure the engine oil viscosity is correct for the temperature; switch to the recommended grade if too heavy." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fix the battery/connection/oil issue, then restart from the control switch." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-4", "fault-29", "fault-36" ], "safety_note": "Battery servicing involves spark and acid hazards — disconnect the negative cable first and wear eye protection. Let the engine cool before checking oil.", "call_tech_when": "If a known-good, fully charged battery with clean connections and correct oil still cranks too slowly — the starter or wiring may need service.", "caveats": "Two different definitions behind one number. Air-cooled KY and KYD sets: cranking speed below 180 rpm for more than two seconds. Quiet Diesel sets: the controller could not detect cranking speed at all — no quadrature zero crossings — for twelve seconds, which can also mean the starter never turned the engine rather than that it turned too slowly.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Low Cranking Speed Fault — Code No. 32 (<180 rpm for >2 s)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 36", "code_slug": "fault-36", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-36/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Engine Stopped fault. The engine stopped on its own without the controller commanding a shutdown. Despite being one of the most-searched Onan codes, code 36 is NOT overspeed (that is code 31) - it most often means the genset simply ran out of fuel, lost spark, or stalled from a fuel/air problem. Read as three blinks, a pause, then six blinks.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of fuel - on shared tanks the generator pickup tube sits higher than the vehicle engine pickup, so the genset runs dry first (often around 1/4 tank)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "LPG supply too low or, on cold days, insufficient vaporization rate to meet demand", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak or fouled spark - loose spark-plug leads or worn spark plugs", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Clogged air cleaner restricting airflow", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Mechanical damage or other engine fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the fuel gauge and refill; never run a shared tank below about 1/4 for the generator. Mark the genset 'empty' point on the gauge.", "On LPG units, confirm the tank is adequately full (keep it at least half full in cold weather).", "Visually confirm spark-plug wires are seated and the air cleaner is not clogged (with engine off and cool).", "Make sure all fuel valves are open." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the underlying cause (usually refuel) first.", "On gasoline models, prime the fuel system by holding the control switch at Stop/Prime for about 30 seconds, then attempt a restart.", "Wait about 5 seconds for the controller to reset between start attempts.", "Note: the controller logs the last fault and will keep blinking it for ~5 minutes (15 minutes on HGJAA series); pressing Stop three times within 5 seconds restores the blink display. The logged code clears on the next successful run/start cycle." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series RV gensets (e.g. KY Spec J-N)", "Onan Marquis / Microlite / Emerald style RV gensets using the blink-code controller", "HGJAA / HGJAB-class units (note longer 15-minute blink retention on HGJAA)" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-4", "fault-31", "fault-3", "fault-32" ], "safety_note": "This is a fuel-burning (gasoline or LPG) engine. If you smell gasoline or propane, stop, do not crank or create sparks, and ventilate before troubleshooting. Let hot engine parts cool before touching them. Never run a generator in an enclosed space - exhaust contains deadly carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "Fuel and spark are confirmed good but the genset still stops on code 36, or you suspect mechanical damage. Internal repairs should go to an authorized Onan/Cummins dealer.", "caveats": "The same number is filed differently by series. On the air-cooled KY and KYD sets it is 'Engine Stopped Fault — engine stopped without command by controller', with no numeric definition. On the Quiet Diesel it is 'Mechanical Fault', defined as engine speed falling below 1000 rpm for half a second without the controller asking for it. It is not overspeed; overspeed is code 31.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan RV Generator Troubleshooting Codes (Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins/Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "TABLE 5. TROUBLESHOOTING - ENGINE STOPPED FAULT-CODE NO. 36" }, { "title": "Operator Manual RV Generator Set KY (Spec J-N), 0981-0159", "publisher": "Cummins Inc.", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting section, Fault Codes / Table 2 (Fault Code No. 36 blink example)" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.97, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 38", "code_slug": "fault-38", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-38/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overcurrent (field overload) fault. The generator saw excessive current from low-power-factor loads — commonly motor-starting surges, especially from air conditioners.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many high-surge appliances starting at once (multiple A/C units)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A faulty appliance with very low power factor, e.g. an air conditioner with a locked compressor rotor", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Reduce how many appliances run simultaneously, especially those with high motor-starting loads like air conditioners.", "Have air conditioners and other suspect appliances checked for proper operation — a seized/locked compressor can cause a very low power factor and trip this fault.", "Stagger startup of large loads instead of switching them all on together." ], "reset_steps": [ "Shed or stagger loads, then restart the generator from the control switch.", "If it runs cleanly with loads managed, the appliance load was the cause." ], "affected_models": [ "Marquis Gold", "QG 4000", "QG 5500", "KY series", "HGJAA", "HGJAB", "HGJAC", "HGJAD", "HGJAE", "HGJAF" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-22", "fault-13", "fault-15" ], "safety_note": "Have appliance/compressor diagnosis done by a qualified technician; do not open A/C electrical compartments while powered. Stop the generator and disconnect the negative battery cable before inspecting generator wiring.", "call_tech_when": "If Code 38 recurs with normal, well-managed loads, or if a specific appliance is suspected of a locked-rotor fault.", "caveats": "The air-cooled manuals describe this only as 'low power factor loads'. The Quiet Diesel manual gives the measurable version: field voltage above 180 VAC for ten seconds. The lower the power factor of a motor or compressor, the more current it draws per kilowatt, and the harder the controller has to push the field to keep up — which is why a locked air conditioner compressor rotor triggers this so reliably.", "sources": [ { "title": "Onan Troubleshooting Codes (Service Manual Table 5)", "publisher": "Cummins Onan (hosted by Heartland Owners)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Electrical/Generator/Onan%205500/Onan%20Troubleshooting%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Overcurrent (Field Overload) Fault — Code No. 38" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 1", "code_slug": "fault-1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-1/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Engine over temperature — a first-level fault shown as one blink. On a liquid-cooled Quiet Diesel the controller declares it when coolant temperature passes 239 °F (115 °C) for ten seconds during normal operation. Air-cooled gasoline and LPG sets have no coolant sensor and do not use one blink as a fault at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Coolant level low, or a leak in the cooling system", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air inlet or outlet in the bottom of the genset blocked, or radiator passages fouled with dirt", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Too many appliances running at once, made worse by high ambient temperature or altitude", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Housing panel or the AC terminal access cover missing or loose, letting hot air recirculate inside the housing", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or broken fan belt", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Harness connector at the coolant temperature sender loose — a lead touching ground reads as high temperature", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Coolant thermostat not opening fully, or a failed temperature sender", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the engine cold, check the coolant level at the recovery tank and top it up; look for the leak if it was low.", "Clear anything blocking the air inlet and outlet openings in the bottom of the genset, and brush dirt out of the radiator fins.", "Check that every housing panel and the AC terminal access cover is fitted and secure — a missing cover lets the set breathe its own hot air.", "Run fewer appliances at once, especially in heat or at altitude, and see whether it stays running.", "Look for a loose or broken fan belt.", "Check that the wiring connector on the coolant temperature sender is pushed home." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the engine cool, correct the cause, then restart.", "To re-display a logged code, press Stop three times within five seconds — the blinking times out after five minutes (fifteen on the HGJAA series). The controller keeps replaying the last fault even after the cause is gone; only a successful run clears it." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan Quiet Diesel HDKCA / HDKCB", "Onan liquid-cooled RV gensets" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-24", "fault-3", "fault-36" ], "safety_note": "Never open a cooling system that is still hot — escaping coolant and steam cause serious burns. This is a fuel-burning engine. Never run it in an enclosed space or occupy the vehicle while it runs without a working carbon monoxide detector, and let hot parts cool before touching anything.", "call_tech_when": "Coolant, airflow and panels are all in order and it still overheats — the thermostat, the sender or the cooling passages need service.", "caveats": "Only liquid-cooled sets use this code. If you are counting one blink on an air-cooled gasoline or LPG set, count a full cycle again — the KY and KYD manuals document only three and four blinks as first-level faults.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 4", "code_slug": "fault-4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overcrank — a first-level fault shown as four blinks. The starter turned the engine and it never caught, so the controller stopped cranking to protect the starter. It is a fuel, spark or cranking-speed problem, not a controller problem.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of fuel — on a shared tank the genset pickup tube sits higher than the vehicle engine pickup, so the generator runs dry while the dash gauge still shows fuel", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Fuel system needs priming after running dry or standing", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "LPG container low, or too cold to vaporise fast enough to meet demand", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Spark plug worn or its lead not seated (gasoline and LPG sets)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Air cleaner clogged", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Cranking too slow to fire — weak battery, poor connections, or oil too thick for the temperature", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Glow plugs not heating (diesel sets)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Fuel pump, fuel filter or an air leak in the fuel line", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Governor actuator not pulling in its plunger, so the engine cannot start at all (diesel sets)", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the fuel level first, and treat a quarter tank as empty for the generator on a shared tank.", "Gasoline sets: prime by holding the control switch at Stop/Prime for about 30 seconds, then try again. Diesel sets: prime for about a minute.", "LPG sets: check the container, and keep it at least half full in cold weather so it can vaporise fast enough.", "Open any fuel valve that was closed for storage.", "Push the spark plug lead firmly onto the plug; replace a worn plug.", "Check the air cleaner element and clear any blockage.", "Clean and tighten the battery connections at the battery, the vehicle frame and the genset — slow cranking is a common cause.", "In cold weather, make sure the engine oil viscosity suits the temperature; thick oil slows cranking below the speed the engine needs to fire." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the cause, then start again. Do not crank for more than 30 seconds at a time — Cummins warns that excessive cranking overheats and damages the starter motor.", "Let the starter cool between attempts.", "To re-display a logged code, press Stop three times within five seconds — the blinking times out after five minutes (fifteen on the HGJAA series). The controller keeps replaying the last fault even after the cause is gone; only a successful run clears it." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan RV QG / KY series (gasoline and LPG)", "Onan KYD", "Onan Quiet Diesel HDKCA / HDKCB" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-32", "fault-36", "fault-3" ], "safety_note": "This is a fuel-burning engine. Never run it in an enclosed space or occupy the vehicle while it runs without a working carbon monoxide detector, and let hot parts cool before touching anything.", "call_tech_when": "Fuel, spark, air and battery all check out and it still will not fire — the fuel pump, injectors, glow plugs or the governor actuator need testing.", "caveats": "Cummins does not give one consistent cranking limit for this code. The KY operator manual says '15 to 20 seconds' in its introduction and 'exceeded 20 seconds' in its own troubleshooting table in the same document; the 2019 RV Generator Handbook says 30 seconds; the HDKCA/HDKCB diesel manual says 35 seconds. Any page quoting a single figure as 'the' Onan overcrank threshold has copied one table without checking the others. The number does not change the diagnosis.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set KY (Spec J–N)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0159.pdf", "manualRef": "981-0159 (Issue 9), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 2" }, { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" }, { "title": "Cummins Onan RV Generator Handbook (2019 edition)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (hosted by Forest River)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Generator/Onan%20-%20Generator%20Handbook%20(2019).pdf", "manualRef": "Fault Codes, p. 38" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 22", "code_slug": "fault-22", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-22/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Governor actuator overload. The controller had to hold the governor actuator at full duty cycle — maximum pulse-width-modulated signal — for 60 consecutive seconds to keep engine speed up, and shut down. In other words the engine was being asked for more than it could deliver, for a full minute.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too much load, particularly motor starting loads such as air conditioners", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Engine down on power — restricted air filter, fuel restriction or a worn engine", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High altitude or high ambient temperature reducing available output", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Turn off large loads, restart, and add them back one at a time to see which one triggers it.", "Avoid starting two air conditioners at the same moment — stagger them.", "Check the air filter and the fuel filter, since either can leave the engine short of power under load." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the load and restart.", "To re-display a logged code, press Stop three times within five seconds — the blinking times out after five minutes (fifteen on the HGJAA series). The controller keeps replaying the last fault even after the cause is gone; only a successful run clears it." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan Quiet Diesel HDKCA / HDKCB", "Onan gensets with an electronic governor actuator" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-19", "fault-15", "fault-38" ], "safety_note": "This is a fuel-burning engine. Never run it in an enclosed space or occupy the vehicle while it runs without a working carbon monoxide detector, and let hot parts cool before touching anything.", "call_tech_when": "It trips at loads the genset used to carry comfortably — that points at engine performance rather than at your appliances.", "caveats": "Do not confuse this with code 19. Code 19 is an electrical fault in the actuator or its harness and is a dealer job; code 22 is a working actuator being asked for too much, and is usually fixed by the person operating the generator.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 24", "code_slug": "fault-24", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-24/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Faulty engine temperature sender. After ten minutes of normal running the controller checks the coolant temperature sender circuit, and it found the sender or its harness open. The engine is not necessarily overheating — the controller has simply lost its ability to tell.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Harness connector at the temperature sender disconnected or corroded", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Broken wire between the control board and the sender", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed temperature sender", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the genset stopped, check that the connector on the coolant temperature sender is seated and its pins are clean.", "Follow the lead back for obvious chafing or a break." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect anything found loose and run the set for more than ten minutes — the check only runs after that point.", "To re-display a logged code, press Stop three times within five seconds — the blinking times out after five minutes (fifteen on the HGJAA series). The controller keeps replaying the last fault even after the cause is gone; only a successful run clears it." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan Quiet Diesel HDKCA / HDKCB" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-1" ], "safety_note": "Until the sender works again the genset has no over-temperature protection. Do not run it hard with this fault outstanding. This is a fuel-burning engine. Never run it in an enclosed space or occupy the vehicle while it runs without a working carbon monoxide detector, and let hot parts cool before touching anything.", "call_tech_when": "The connector is sound and the fault repeats — the sender or the control board needs testing.", "caveats": "The same wire produces two different codes depending on how it fails. An open circuit is code 24; a lead touching ground is interpreted by the controller as genuine high temperature and comes out as code 1. A set that reports over-temperature while feeling cold is worth checking for a grounded sender lead before anyone drains the coolant.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "onan", "brand_name": "Onan", "appliance": "generator", "appliance_name": "Generator", "code": "Fault 57", "code_slug": "fault-57", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/onan/generator/fault-57/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Overprime. A control switch — the one on the genset or the remote one inside the vehicle — was held in the Prime position for more than three minutes. This is the controller protecting the fuel system, not a defect in the generator.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Something physically holding the local or remote switch in Prime — a jammed rocker, trapped trim, an object leaning on the panel", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A remote switch that sticks instead of springing back", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Priming deliberately held far too long while chasing a hard start", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Look at both switches — the one on the genset and the remote panel inside — and free anything holding either in Prime.", "Check that the remote switch springs back to centre on its own." ], "reset_steps": [ "Release the switch, then prime in short bursts rather than one long hold.", "To re-display a logged code, press Stop three times within five seconds — the blinking times out after five minutes (fifteen on the HGJAA series). The controller keeps replaying the last fault even after the cause is gone; only a successful run clears it." ], "affected_models": [ "Onan Quiet Diesel HDKCA / HDKCB" ], "related_codes": [ "fault-4" ], "safety_note": "Extended priming can flood the engine and push raw fuel through the system. This is a fuel-burning engine. Never run it in an enclosed space or occupy the vehicle while it runs without a working carbon monoxide detector, and let hot parts cool before touching anything.", "call_tech_when": "The code returns with both switches confirmed free — the switch or its wiring is shorted.", "caveats": "Two switches can cause this and people only check one. The remote panel inside the coach is the one usually overlooked, because nobody is standing at it when the fault appears.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator Manual — RV Generator Set HDKCA / HDKCB (Spec A–E)", "publisher": "Cummins Inc. (Onan Quiet Diesel)", "url": "https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/0981-0173_I10_201304.pdf", "manualRef": "0981-0173 (Issue 10), Section 4 Troubleshooting, Table 4-1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-07", "de": null }, { "brand": "progressive-dynamics", "brand_name": "Progressive Dynamics", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Charge Wizard — Boost (solid LED)", "code_slug": "charge-wizard-boost", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/progressive-dynamics/converter/charge-wizard-boost/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On an Inteli-Power converter fitted with a Charge Wizard or remote pendant, a steadily lit (non-blinking) indicator means the charger is in Boost mode and is pushing roughly 14.4 VDC into the battery to recharge it quickly. This is a normal status, not a fault, and the unit drops out of Boost once the battery comes up.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery is discharged, so the converter raised output to ~14.4 V to recharge it faster", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Boost mode was manually selected by pressing the pendant button", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "A heavy 12 V load is pulling the battery down and holding the unit in Boost", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the indicator is truly solid (no wink/blink); a Wizard 2 winks once every ~6 seconds even in Boost.", "Measure battery voltage with a multimeter; ~14.4 V at the battery confirms Boost charging.", "Let it run; the unit should step down to Normal mode (rapid blink) once the battery is recharged.", "Verify the battery is not old/sulfated if it never leaves Boost after several hours." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; Boost is a normal charge state.", "To exit manually, briefly press the pendant button to cycle modes.", "To force a fresh mode selection, unplug shore/generator AC for 30 seconds and reconnect." ], "affected_models": [ "PD9100 series", "PD9200 series", "PD9260", "PD9280", "with PD9100/PD92201V Charge Wizard or remote pendant" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "At 14.4 V flooded lead-acid batteries gas off hydrogen; keep the battery compartment ventilated and check fluid levels. Do not work on DC wiring with shore power or the generator connected.", "call_tech_when": "The unit stays in Boost (solid) indefinitely, the battery never reaches full charge, or you smell sulfur/see boiling electrolyte.", "caveats": "Exact blink/wink behavior differs by Charge Wizard version (Wizard 1 vs Wizard 2). On a 24 V model Boost is ~28.8 VDC. Without a Charge Wizard installed, the converter has no pendant LED and runs a fixed 13.6 V.", "sources": [ { "title": "Wizard or Pendant Operation", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/Operation-Wizard-Pendant.pdf", "manualRef": "Wizard/Pendant Operation, rev. 10/15/2021 - Boost mode 14.4VDC" }, { "title": "PD9100/9200 Series Power Converter Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/PD9100-9200-10953E-owners-manual-english.pdf", "manualRef": "110953E - Boost Mode ~14.4 VDC" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "progressive-dynamics", "brand_name": "Progressive Dynamics", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Charge Wizard — Normal (rapid blink)", "code_slug": "charge-wizard-normal", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/progressive-dynamics/converter/charge-wizard-normal/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "A fast-flashing indicator (roughly one to five flashes per second) means the Inteli-Power converter is in Normal (Regular) mode, holding output at about 13.6 VDC. This is the standard everyday operating state once the battery is charged.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery is charged, so the converter settled to its nominal 13.6 V maintenance level", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Normal mode was locked in by holding the pendant button past the lock threshold", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage; ~13.6 V confirms Normal mode.", "Confirm the flash rate is fast (about 1-5 per second) rather than the slow once-every-several-seconds storage blink.", "If you expected fast charging, press the pendant button to command Boost." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; this is normal operation.", "Holding the pendant button longer than the lock threshold (about 9-12 seconds depending on Wizard version) locks Normal mode until released." ], "affected_models": [ "PD9100 series", "PD9200 series", "PD9260", "PD9280", "with Charge Wizard / remote pendant" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not service DC wiring with AC shore power or the generator energized; the converter can deliver high current.", "call_tech_when": "Voltage at the battery reads well below 13.6 V in Normal mode, or 12 V accessories behave erratically.", "caveats": "Flash cadence and the lock-hold duration vary between Wizard 1 (1-5/sec) and Wizard 2 (~2-second rate). 24 V models hold ~27.2 V in Normal mode.", "sources": [ { "title": "Wizard or Pendant Operation", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/Operation-Wizard-Pendant.pdf", "manualRef": "Regular mode - flash 1-5 times a second, 13.6 VDC" }, { "title": "PD9100/9200 Series Power Converter Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/PD9100-9200-10953E-owners-manual-english.pdf", "manualRef": "110953E - Normal Mode ~13.6 VDC" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "progressive-dynamics", "brand_name": "Progressive Dynamics", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Charge Wizard — Storage (slow blink)", "code_slug": "charge-wizard-storage", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/progressive-dynamics/converter/charge-wizard-storage/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "A brief flash about once every 6-8 seconds means the Inteli-Power converter has entered Storage mode and lowered output to roughly 13.2 VDC to minimize water loss while the RV sits unused. The unit periodically pulses back up to ~14.4 V for a short desulfation cycle. This is normal storage behavior.", "causes": [ { "cause": "No significant battery use for about 30 hours, so the converter dropped to the 13.2 V storage level", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Storage mode was manually selected via the pendant button", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage; ~13.2 V confirms Storage mode.", "Confirm the flash is a single brief blip every several seconds (not the fast Normal-mode blink).", "If you want a full recharge, press the pendant button to command Boost or Normal mode." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; storage is a normal low-maintenance state.", "Use the pendant button to step back to Normal/Boost, or draw a load (or cycle AC power) to wake it from storage." ], "affected_models": [ "PD9100 series", "PD9200 series", "PD9260", "PD9280", "with Charge Wizard / remote pendant" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Even in storage the unit briefly raises voltage to ~14.4 V for desulfation, which gasses flooded batteries; keep the compartment ventilated.", "call_tech_when": "The unit never leaves storage even under load, or the battery self-discharges despite the converter showing storage maintenance.", "caveats": "The exact flash interval (6 vs 8 seconds) and the desulfation timing differ slightly by Charge Wizard version. 24 V models use 26.4 V storage / 28.8 V desulfation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Wizard or Pendant Operation", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/Operation-Wizard-Pendant.pdf", "manualRef": "Storage mode - brief flash every ~8 seconds, 13.2 VDC" }, { "title": "PD9100/9200 Series Power Converter Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/PD9100-9200-10953E-owners-manual-english.pdf", "manualRef": "110953E - Storage Mode 13.2 VDC, 15 min every 21 hrs at 14.4 V" } ], "confidence": 0.94, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "progressive-dynamics", "brand_name": "Progressive Dynamics", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Cycling on/off (thermal shutdown)", "code_slug": "thermal-shutdown", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/progressive-dynamics/converter/thermal-shutdown/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "If the Inteli-Power converter repeatedly switches on and off, it is usually its thermal/over-temperature protection responding to heat. The unit reduces or cuts output when it overheats and restores full output as it cools. Overvoltage protection produces a similar full shutdown on an AC input surge.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Restricted airflow or a hot installation compartment triggering thermal protection", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Converter mounted in too small or unventilated a space", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "AC input voltage spiking above the preset limit, triggering overvoltage shutdown", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Internal fan failure on units so equipped", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check that the converter's vents and surrounding area are clear of stored items and dust.", "Feel whether the compartment is unusually hot; improve ventilation if so.", "Verify AC input is within 105-130 VAC, especially on a questionable generator or campground pedestal.", "Listen/feel for the cooling fan (on fan-equipped models) running under load." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the unit cool; thermal protection self-recovers as temperature drops.", "Clear obstructions and improve airflow before restarting.", "For overvoltage shutdown, the unit resumes automatically once input voltage returns to normal." ], "affected_models": [ "PD9100 series", "PD9200 series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not defeat or block the converter's ventilation, and do not work on AC/DC wiring while shore power or the generator is connected.", "call_tech_when": "The unit keeps cycling even with good airflow and correct AC voltage, or it shuts down and will not restart after cooling.", "caveats": "Progressive Dynamics converters do not display a numeric fault code for thermal/overvoltage events; the only indication is reduced output or on/off cycling described in the manual's troubleshooting table.", "sources": [ { "title": "PD9100 Series Owners Manual (109205n)", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/109205n-english.pdf", "manualRef": "Thermal Protection; Overvoltage Protection; Troubleshooting - converter cycles on & off" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "progressive-dynamics", "brand_name": "Progressive Dynamics", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "No DC output (ATC fuses blown)", "code_slug": "no-dc-output", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/progressive-dynamics/converter/no-dc-output/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "When an Inteli-Power converter produces no 12 V output, the most common cause is that the external reverse-battery protection fuses (one to three 30 A ATC blade fuses on the converter, depending on model) have blown. These fuses are designed to sacrifice themselves if the battery is ever connected backwards, and they are also the main DC link between the converter and the coach.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery was connected in reverse polarity, even momentarily, blowing the external ATC fuses", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "No incoming AC (tripped breaker, unplugged shore cord, generator off) so the converter is not powered", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open inline fuse or loose connection in the battery wiring installed by the RV maker", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Overvoltage shutdown from an AC input spike (clears when input returns to normal)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Internal converter failure", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the unit has live AC: check the RV's main breaker and that shore power or the generator is on (105-130 VAC).", "Disconnect any optional pendant/TCMS module (it must be removed to reach the fuses), then inspect the external 30 A ATC fuses for a broken element.", "Replace blown fuses only with the same type and 30 A rating after confirming the battery is wired correctly.", "Using a DC voltmeter, check converter output; ~13.6 V indicates it is working.", "Check for an open inline fuse or loose terminal in the battery cable run." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect AC power before replacing fuses.", "Correct any reverse battery connection first, then install fresh 30 A ATC fuses.", "Reconnect the pendant/TCMS module, restore AC, and re-verify output voltage." ], "affected_models": [ "PD9130", "PD9140A", "PD9145A", "PD9155", "PD9160A", "PD9180", "PD9200 series" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A reversed battery connection can damage wiring and cause sparks near hydrogen gas. Disconnect AC and the battery before touching fuses, and never substitute a higher-rated fuse, which can let the converter overheat.", "call_tech_when": "Fuses are intact and AC is present but output is still 0 V, fuses blow again immediately after replacement, or you find melted/scorched wiring.", "caveats": "Fuse count varies by amperage model (PD9130 has one 30 A fuse; mid models two; PD9180 three). Some symptoms (overheating cycling on/off) point to airflow, not fuses.", "sources": [ { "title": "PD9100 Series Owners Manual (109205n)", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/109205n-english.pdf", "manualRef": "Reverse Battery Protection Circuit; Troubleshooting - External Fuses Blown" }, { "title": "PD9100/9200 Series Power Converter Owner's Manual", "publisher": "Progressive Dynamics, Inc.", "url": "https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/PD9100-9200-10953E-owners-manual-english.pdf", "manualRef": "110953E - No-output troubleshooting, verify output with voltmeter" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "recpro", "brand_name": "RecPro", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/recpro/air-conditioner/e4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The system detects that it is running but not producing the expected cooling effect.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or lost refrigerant charge", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Compressor not engaging", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty filter or evaporator coil reducing cooling performance", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Outdoor coil/condenser airflow restriction", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check and clean the return-air filter and confirm the evaporator (indoor) coil is not blocked.", "Confirm the cooling mode is selected and the set temperature is below the current room temperature.", "With power off, inspect the rooftop condenser coil for debris." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off at the remote/plenum control.", "Remove power at the breaker for about a minute, then restore and restart in cooling mode." ], "affected_models": [ "RecPro RP-AC3501", "RecPro RP-AC3800", "RecPro RP-AC3400", "RecPro H3400 / A3400 / A3401", "RecPro A3501 / A3800 / T3500 (ducted)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Refrigerant work is not a DIY task; never open the sealed refrigerant circuit. Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before any rooftop or plenum service.", "call_tech_when": "If filters and airflow are fine but cooling is still weak and E4 persists, a technician should check refrigerant charge and the compressor circuit.", "caveats": "RecPro AC units are rebranded Houghton-type units, so the RecPro and Houghton code tables match (E0-E5, E8, E9).", "sources": [ { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted Air-Conditioning System Owner's Manual", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "No cooling effect E4" }, { "title": "RP-AC3400 Low Profile Air Conditioner Owner's Manual (H3400/A3400/A3401)", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3400%20Low%20Profile%20Air%20Conditioner.pdf", "manualRef": "No cooling effect E4" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "recpro", "brand_name": "RecPro", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E8", "code_slug": "e8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/recpro/air-conditioner/e8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The outdoor ambient temperature sensor is reading out of range or has failed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Disconnected or damaged outdoor ambient sensor wiring", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed outdoor ambient temperature sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control board input fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power off, inspect the outdoor sensor connector at the rooftop control box for corrosion or a loose pin.", "Look for moisture intrusion at the connector." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off and remove power at the breaker for about a minute.", "Restore power; if the sensor connection is good the code should clear." ], "affected_models": [ "RecPro RP-AC3501", "RecPro RP-AC3800", "RecPro A3501 / A3800 / T3500 (ducted)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before opening the rooftop control box; the unit runs on 120V mains.", "call_tech_when": "If reseating the connector does not clear E8, have a technician test or replace the outdoor ambient sensor or control board.", "caveats": "E8 appears in the ducted RP-AC3501/3800 code table; the same code applies to the equivalent Houghton-branded ducted units.", "sources": [ { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted Air-Conditioning System Owner's Manual", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Outdoor temperature sensor fault E8" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "recpro", "brand_name": "RecPro", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "E9", "code_slug": "e9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/recpro/air-conditioner/e9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The room temperature sensor located in the wall pad (wall controller) is reading out of range or has failed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Failed wall-pad room temperature sensor", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Damaged wall-pad communication/sensor wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wall pad controller fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the wall pad is mounted away from direct heat/sun sources that could skew readings.", "With power off, check the wall pad cable connection." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off and remove power at the breaker for about a minute.", "Restore power; if the wall pad connection is good the code should clear." ], "affected_models": [ "RecPro RP-AC3501", "RecPro RP-AC3800", "RecPro A3501 / A3800 / T3500 (ducted)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect shore power and the AC breaker before opening the wall pad or rooftop control box; mains voltage is present.", "call_tech_when": "If the wiring is intact and E9 persists, the wall pad sensor/controller likely needs replacement by a technician.", "caveats": "E9 specifically refers to the sensor inside the wall pad, distinct from the E1 room sensor circuit.", "sources": [ { "title": "RP-AC3501 / RP-AC3800 Ducted Air-Conditioning System Owner's Manual", "publisher": "RecPro", "url": "https://recpro.com/content/RP-AC3501%20RP-AC3800%20Ducted%20AC%20Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Wall pad room temperature sensor fault E9" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The controller has detected that the battery is over-discharged (its voltage dropped below the low-voltage cutoff). The controller stops drawing energy from the battery to protect it from deep-discharge damage.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too much load was drawn from the battery while solar input was insufficient (cloudy days, winter, undersized array)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Aging or sulfated battery that can no longer hold charge and sags under load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low-voltage disconnect threshold set too high for the battery chemistry in use", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded battery cable causing a voltage-drop the controller reads as low battery", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the actual resting battery voltage at the terminals with a multimeter and compare it to what the controller display shows.", "Reduce or switch off loads and let the solar panels recharge the battery during good sun.", "Inspect battery cable lugs and terminals for looseness or corrosion.", "Confirm the controller's battery type setting matches your battery (e.g. lithium vs. sealed vs. gel vs. flooded)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect loads from the controller's load terminals (if used).", "Allow the battery to recharge from solar above the reconnect voltage; the controller normally clears E1 automatically once voltage recovers.", "If it does not clear, power-cycle the controller by disconnecting the battery, then the PV, then reconnecting battery first and PV second." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Wanderer (shown as E01)", "Renogy Adventurer" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always connect the battery to the controller before the solar panels, and disconnect the panels first, to avoid damaging the unit. Lead-acid batteries can vent explosive hydrogen gas and contain corrosive acid; work in a ventilated area and wear eye protection.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery still reads low immediately after a full charge, or repeatedly trips E1 under normal loads, the battery is likely failing and should be load-tested or replaced by a qualified person.", "caveats": "On the Wanderer/Adventurer this appears as E01; on Rover/Rover Li it appears as E1. Exact cutoff voltages depend on the configured battery type and firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, System Status / Error Code table, E1 Battery over-discharged" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting; Error Codes - Renogy Wanderer Manual (Page 23)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2493633/Renogy-Wanderer.html?page=23", "manualRef": "Wanderer manual, Error Codes, E01 Over-discharged battery" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E2", "code_slug": "e2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The controller has detected battery over-voltage: the battery voltage has risen above its safe upper limit. The controller stops charging to prevent overcharge damage to the battery.", "causes": [ { "cause": "A second charging source (e.g. a separate AC charger, alternator/DC-DC charger, or another solar controller) is also pushing voltage into the same battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Charge voltage / battery type set too high for the installed battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty or failing battery whose voltage spikes instead of accepting charge", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the reading with a multimeter directly on the battery terminals.", "Check whether another charger or charging source is connected to the same battery bank and disconnect extras to isolate the cause.", "Confirm the controller's battery-type / voltage setting matches your battery's specification." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect the battery from the controller for a few minutes, then reconnect and watch whether over-voltage recurs.", "If over-voltage persists with no second charger present, the battery or its BMS may be faulty." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Wanderer (shown as E02)", "Renogy Adventurer" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Over-voltage can damage connected 12V appliances. Battery work risks short-circuit and arcing; remove jewelry, use insulated tools, and ventilate to avoid hydrogen buildup near lead-acid cells.", "call_tech_when": "If over-voltage continues with only the solar controller connected, have the battery and its management system inspected by a technician before continuing to use the system.", "caveats": "Shown as E02 on Wanderer/Adventurer and E2 on Rover/Rover Li. The Wanderer manual describes this as battery voltage approaching ~16VDC.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E2 Battery over-voltage" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting; Error Codes - Renogy Wanderer Manual (Page 23)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2493633/Renogy-Wanderer.html?page=23", "manualRef": "Wanderer manual, Error Codes, E02 Battery over-charging (voltage near 16VDC)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E3", "code_slug": "e3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The controller reports a battery under-voltage condition: battery voltage is below normal operating range but typically not yet at the full over-discharge cutoff. It is an early warning that the battery is running low.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Insufficient solar charging relative to the loads being drawn", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Weak, aged, or partially discharged battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop from undersized or loose battery wiring", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure resting battery voltage with a multimeter to confirm the reading.", "Reduce loads and allow solar to recharge the bank.", "Check wiring gauge and terminal tightness between battery and controller." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the battery recharge above the warning threshold; the warning typically clears on its own as voltage rises.", "If it persists at a properly charged voltage, power-cycle the controller (battery off, then on)." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Repeatedly running a battery to under-voltage shortens its life. Observe lead-acid hydrogen-venting and acid hazards; for lithium, deep discharge can trigger a BMS lockout.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery shows under-voltage even shortly after charging, have it capacity-tested or replaced by a qualified person.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the Rover 40A manual table. The Wanderer manual does not list E03 as a separate code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E3 Battery under-voltage" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E4", "code_slug": "e4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e4/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Load short circuit: the controller detected a short across its load output terminals and shut the load output off to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Wiring short between the positive and negative load conductors (pinched, chafed, or miswired cable)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty 12V appliance connected to the load terminals", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "A connected lithium battery's BMS momentarily appears as a short to the controller on the load side (known interaction on some setups)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Internal controller fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Disconnect everything from the load terminals and inspect the load wiring for damaged insulation or crossed conductors.", "With the load disconnected, measure voltage at the load terminals to confirm the controller recovers.", "Reconnect loads one at a time to find the faulty device or cable." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove all loads from the load output.", "Power-cycle the controller (disconnect battery and PV, wait, reconnect battery then PV).", "Reconnect loads individually once the short is cleared." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Wanderer (shown as E04)", "Renogy Adventurer" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A short circuit can cause hot wires, melted insulation, and fire. De-energize before touching wiring, and never connect an inverter or high-current load directly to the controller's low-current load terminals.", "call_tech_when": "If no external short can be found and E4 returns with the load output empty, the controller likely has an internal fault; contact Renogy support or a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Shown as E04 on Wanderer/Adventurer and E4 on Rover. Some users report E4 caused by a lithium BMS interaction rather than an actual wiring short.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E4 Load short circuit" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting; Error Codes - Renogy Wanderer Manual (Page 23)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2493633/Renogy-Wanderer.html?page=23", "manualRef": "Wanderer manual, Error Codes, E04 Load short circuit" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E5", "code_slug": "e5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Load overload: the current drawn through the controller's load output exceeded its rated limit, so the controller cut the load output to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Total connected load current exceeds the controller's load terminal rating", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A high-draw or surging device (motor, pump, large inverter) wired to the load output", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Partial short or fault in a connected appliance raising current", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Add up the current of all devices on the load output and compare to the controller's rated load current.", "Disconnect high-draw devices and connect them directly to the battery through an appropriately fused circuit instead.", "Check for a faulty appliance drawing more than its rated current." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the connected load below the rated limit.", "Power-cycle the controller to clear the overload state, then reconnect within limits." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overloaded wiring overheats. Use correctly sized, fused conductors, and never run an inverter from the controller's load terminals - connect inverters directly to the battery with proper fusing.", "call_tech_when": "If overload trips even with loads well under the rating, have the controller checked for an internal current-sensing fault.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the Rover 40A manual table. Load-output current ratings differ by model.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E5 Load overloaded" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E6", "code_slug": "e6", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e6/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Controller over-temperature: the controller's internal temperature exceeded its safe limit, so it reduced or stopped charging until it cools down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Poor ventilation or the controller mounted in a hot, enclosed space", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Sustained high charging current near the controller's rated output", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High ambient temperature / direct sun on the unit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blocked heat sink or dust buildup", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the controller has the manufacturer-specified clearance around it for airflow.", "Move it out of direct sunlight and away from other heat sources.", "Clear dust from the heat sink and ensure nothing blocks ventilation.", "Reduce charging current if the system is consistently running at maximum output." ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the controller cool; it normally resumes automatically once temperature returns to range.", "Improve mounting/ventilation to prevent recurrence." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not touch the heat sink while hot. Ensure the mounting surface is non-flammable and the unit is not enclosed without ventilation.", "call_tech_when": "If over-temperature occurs at low charging current and normal ambient temperatures, the controller may have a cooling or sensor fault and should be serviced.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the Rover 40A manual table as controller (internal) over-temperature.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E6 Controller over-temperature" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E8", "code_slug": "e8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "PV (solar) input over-current: the current coming from the solar array exceeded the controller's input limit, so it limited or stopped charging to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Solar array sized beyond the controller's rated input current/wattage", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Too many panels in parallel feeding more current than the controller can accept", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring fault on the PV side", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Compare your array's rated current and total wattage against the controller's maximum PV input specs.", "Re-check series/parallel panel wiring against the controller's limits.", "Inspect PV wiring for damage or miswiring." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce the array to within the controller's input rating (remove parallel strings or reconfigure).", "Power-cycle the controller after correcting the array configuration." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Solar arrays produce dangerous current and voltage in daylight and cannot simply be switched off - cover panels or disconnect at a PV breaker before working. Larger arrays can produce lethal voltage; treat all PV wiring as live.", "call_tech_when": "If PV over-current appears with an array that is within spec, have the controller's input stage inspected by a technician.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the Rover 40A manual table as PV input over-current.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E8 PV input over-current" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "renogy", "brand_name": "Renogy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "E10", "code_slug": "e10", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/renogy/solar-controller/e10/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "PV (solar) over-voltage: the solar array's voltage exceeded the controller's maximum input voltage. The controller stops accepting PV input to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many panels wired in series, raising open-circuit voltage above the controller's limit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Cold weather raising panel Voc above the rated value", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Array configured without accounting for temperature-corrected open-circuit voltage", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Calculate the array's cold-weather open-circuit voltage and compare it to the controller's maximum PV input voltage.", "Measure PV array voltage with a multimeter in good sun.", "Reconfigure series strings to stay safely below the input limit, allowing margin for cold." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect the PV input, reconfigure the array below the voltage limit, then reconnect (battery first, then PV).", "The controller typically resumes once PV voltage is within range." ], "affected_models": [ "Renogy Rover 20A/30A/40A", "Renogy Rover Li 20A/30A/40A" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "PV over-voltage can permanently damage the controller and indicates dangerous string voltage. High-voltage solar strings can be lethal - never disconnect PV connectors under load; use a PV disconnect or cover the panels first.", "call_tech_when": "If PV over-voltage persists with an array that should be within spec, stop using the system and consult a solar professional before reconnecting.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the Rover 40A manual table as PV over-voltage.", "sources": [ { "title": "Renogy Rover 40A Manual - System Status Troubleshooting (Page 21)", "publisher": "ManualsLib / Renogy", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1229177/Renogy-Rover-40a.html?page=21", "manualRef": "Rover 40A manual, Error Code table, E10 PV over-voltage" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "High-limit lockout", "code_slug": "high-limit-lockout", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/furnace/high-limit-lockout/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The high-temperature limit switch is a normally-closed safety in series with the ignition circuit. If the furnace overheats — typically from insufficient airflow — the limit opens and cuts the gas valve. On the 12 VDC Fan Control board, if the limit circuit stays open for 5 minutes during a heating cycle, the board enters lockout and shuts down the blower, and the thermostat must be reset to run again. Lesser overheating shows up as the furnace repeatedly 'cycling on limit' (flame cutting out and relighting).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Insufficient or blocked return air (covered/obstructed return grille)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Restricted, kinked, too-small, or sharply bent supply ducting raising plenum static pressure", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose or leaking duct collar connections letting hot air escape and overheating the chamber", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty blower wheel reducing circulating airflow", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed/open limit switch or its wiring", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure the return-air grille is fully open and not blocked by bedding, storage, or furniture.", "Confirm supply registers are open and ducts are not crushed, kinked, or closed off.", "Check that no register is buried in a closet or cargo area that cannot recirculate air back to the furnace.", "Note the symptom: short-cycling flame with the blower still running suggests cycling on limit from airflow restriction." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear whatever is restricting airflow (open grilles/registers, straighten ducts).", "Turn the thermostat OFF and let the furnace cool and the blower stop.", "Wait at least a minute, then turn the thermostat back up to restart; if it locks out on limit again, do not keep resetting — fix the airflow restriction first." ], "affected_models": [ "SF-20F", "SF-25F", "SF-30F", "SF-35F", "SF-42F", "NT-12S", "NT-16S", "NT-16SE", "NT-20S", "NT-24SP", "NT-30SP", "NT-34SP", "NT-42T" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The limit switch is a critical overheat safety — never bypass or jumper it. Chronic overheating from poor airflow can damage the heat exchanger and, if a cracked chamber results, allow carbon monoxide into the living space. Verify a working CO detector in the RV. Leak-check gas connections after any service.", "call_tech_when": "If return air and ducting are confirmed adequate but the furnace still overheats, cycles on limit, or locks out on the limit circuit, have a technician test the limit switch and inspect the heat exchanger for cracks.", "caveats": "The 5-minute limit-open-to-lockout timing is specified for the 12 VDC Fan Control board. On the 24 VAC park-model board, an open limit closes the gas valve but the blower keeps running rather than full lockout, so behavior differs by board.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Furnace Service & Training Manual (SF 20/25/30/35/42 series)", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Operation (12 VDC board) — limit open 5 min = lockout; Return Air & Ducting sections (cycling on limit)" }, { "title": "Suburban DYNATRAIL Furnaces NT-Series Service Manual", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/NT-Series-Furnace-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Normal Operation (limit switch in series to module board); Return Air / Ducting requirements" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Ignition lockout", "code_slug": "ignition-lockout", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/furnace/ignition-lockout/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Suburban NT and SF series RV furnaces do not display a numeric error code or LED blink code. After a heat call, the blower starts, the sail switch must close, then a ~15-second purge runs, then the board energizes the gas valve and sparks for about 7 seconds while watching for flame sense through the spark electrode. If no flame is proven, it repeats the purge-and-spark up to 3 total Trial-For-Ignition attempts. After the 3rd failure the board shuts the gas valve, runs the blower about 3 minutes to cool, and goes into lockout — the burner will not relight until the thermostat circuit is broken (reset).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of propane, closed valve, or weak gas flow/pressure so the burner can't light", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low 12V DC (board needs a minimum ~9.5V) causing weak spark or stand-by behavior", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty, misaligned, or carbon-fouled spark/flame-sense electrode so flame is not detected (under 7 microamps)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sail switch not closing due to weak blower, dirty wheel, or blocked return-air/discharge airflow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed gas valve, control (module) board, or open limit switch", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm propane is on and another LP appliance lights, proving gas flow to the coach.", "Listen on a heat call: blower should start, then you should hear clicking (spark) after the purge. No blower at all points to 12V/fuse/thermostat; blower but no spark points to sail switch or board.", "Check the furnace 12V fuse and that the RV battery voltage is healthy.", "Make sure return-air grille and warm-air discharge registers are fully open and unobstructed so the sail switch can close.", "Set the thermostat well above room temperature so it actually calls for heat.", "Inspect the exterior furnace vent/intake for insect nests or debris." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the wall thermostat OFF (or turn the furnace's on/off switch off) for 30-60 seconds, then back to Heat with a higher setpoint — breaking the thermostat circuit clears the lockout.", "If it won't reset, pull the furnace's 12V fuse (or its circuit breaker) for about one minute, reinstall, and retry heat to clear transient board faults.", "If a limit-switch (overheat) lockout occurred, let the furnace cool fully before resetting the thermostat." ], "affected_models": [ "NT-12SE", "NT-16SE", "NT-20SE", "NT-16SEQ", "NT-20SEQ", "NT-30SP", "NT-34SP", "NT-40", "SF-20", "SF-25", "SF-30", "SF-35", "SF-42 (and Q/F/FQ variants)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane is explosive. If you smell gas, STOP, do not operate the furnace, ventilate, and if the smell continues shut the LP tanks and get help. NEVER jumper or bypass the sail switch, limit switch, or rollout switch to force the furnace to run — these prevent fire and carbon-monoxide hazards. Repeated lockouts can also flood the chamber with unburned gas, so let it purge between attempts.", "call_tech_when": "Call a certified RV tech if the furnace still locks out after confirming gas, 12V power, clean airflow, and a clean/aligned electrode — or if the flame sensor reads at least 7 microamps yet the burner still drops into lockout (indicates the module board), or if you suspect the gas valve, limit switch, or sail switch.", "caveats": "Verified directly against the Suburban Service & Training Manual: 3 Trial-For-Ignition attempts, ~15-second purge, 7-second spark/flame-sense window, 7-microamp minimum flame current, and lockout cleared by breaking the thermostat circuit. Suburban furnaces give NO numeric display code or diagnostic blink code — diagnosis is by the sequence/symptom, so 'codeKind' is approximated as a lockout indicator. Exact timing (e.g., limit-switch open for 5 minutes vs. immediate) varies slightly by board generation (12VDC vs 24VAC vs time-delay-relay models).", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban RV Furnaces Service & Training Manual (11-05-2015)", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing (hosted by Heartland Owners Forum)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Operation (12VDC / 24VAC Fan Control Module Board, pp. 26-29); Service Hints / flame-sense 7 microamp spec (p. 32)" }, { "title": "Suburban Furnace Service Manual (NT / SF / DD-17DSI series)", "publisher": "Suburban (hosted by My RV Works, Inc.)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Furnace_Service_Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of operation and troubleshooting flow chart" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Low-voltage standby", "code_slug": "low-voltage-standby", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/furnace/low-voltage-standby/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "The Fan Control module board continuously monitors supply voltage. On the 12 VDC board it requires a minimum of about 9.5 volts; if voltage drops below that, the board parks itself in a standby mode and will not start or run the furnace until adequate voltage returns, after which it resumes normally. Practically, marginal voltage also leaves the blower too slow to close the sail switch, so the furnace appears 'dead' or won't light on a weak battery.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Discharged or aging house battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Undersized or corroded power wiring / poor ground causing voltage drop at the furnace", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose battery or fuse connections", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Weak or failing converter not holding voltage under load", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure DC voltage right at the furnace power terminals with the blower trying to start; it should hold around 11-12 V (the board's hard floor is ~9.5 V).", "Charge the house battery or plug into shore power and retry.", "Check and clean the furnace fuse and battery terminal connections.", "Note whether other 12 V loads are also weak, which points to a battery/converter problem rather than the furnace." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore good voltage (charge battery / connect shore power).", "The board exits standby on its own once adequate voltage returns; if it does not restart, cycle the thermostat OFF and back ON." ], "affected_models": [ "SF-20F", "SF-25F", "SF-30F", "SF-35F", "SF-42F", "NT-12S", "NT-16S", "NT-16SE", "NT-20S", "NT-30SP", "NT-34SP" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never use a battery charger alone (without a battery) to power or test the furnace — chargers can briefly exceed 14.5 V DC and damage the module board. Use a genuine 12 V battery as the power source. Leak-check gas connections after any service.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage at the furnace is confirmed solid (around 12 V) but the board stays in standby or won't energize the blower, have a technician test the module board and wiring.", "caveats": "The 9.5 V standby threshold is specific to the 12 VDC Fan Control board (the 24 VAC park-model board uses an 18 V minimum). Listed voltage requirement on the SF board is 10.5-13.5 V DC; reliable real-world operation generally needs about 11-12 V.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Furnace Service & Training Manual (SF 20/25/30/35/42 series)", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Operation (12 VDC board) Start Time — 9.5 V minimum / standby; Voltage Requirements (10.5-13.5 V); Cautions (no battery charger >14.5 V)" }, { "title": "Suburban DYNATRAIL Furnaces NT-Series Service Manual", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/NT-Series-Furnace-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Normal Operation NOTE (low voltage will not provide sufficient motor RPM to engage sail switch); Diagnosis Section A" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "Sail switch lockout", "code_slug": "sail-switch-lockout", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/furnace/sail-switch-lockout/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the 12 VDC Fan Control module board, after the thermostat calls for heat the board first confirms the sail switch is open, then starts the blower and waits for the sail switch to close (proving airflow). If the sail switch circuit does not close within 30 seconds of the blower starting, the board treats it as a no-airflow fault, goes into lockout, and shuts the blower down. No spark or gas is allowed because the airflow needed to support and exhaust combustion was never proven.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Dust or lint buildup on the sail switch paddle/blade so it sticks and will not 'sail in'", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Dirty or dragging blower wheel reducing motor RPM below the ~75% needed to close the switch", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low supply voltage so the motor never reaches the RPM needed to generate sufficient airflow", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Restricted return air or kinked/over-bent ducting so airflow bounces the switch instead of holding it closed", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Reversed polarity making the motor run backward with too little air delivery", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed/stiff sail (micro) switch or broken wiring to it", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm at least 11-12 volts DC at the furnace; charge or fix the battery/converter if low (the manual cites a 9.5 V minimum for the 12 VDC board, but reliable operation needs ~11-12 V).", "With power off, gently vacuum/brush dust and lint off the blower wheel and the sail switch paddle, and confirm the paddle moves freely by hand.", "Make sure return-air grilles and warm-air registers are open and unobstructed and that ducts are not crushed or kinked.", "Listen: if the blower runs roughly 30 seconds and then stops with no spark, suspect the sail switch / airflow path." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the wall thermostat OFF (or the furnace off) and let the blower come fully to a stop.", "Wait 10-30 seconds so the board clears the lockout.", "Turn the thermostat back up above room temperature to restart the full ignition sequence." ], "affected_models": [ "SF-20F", "SF-25F", "SF-30F", "SF-35F", "SF-42F", "NT-12S", "NT-16S", "NT-16SE", "NT-20S", "NT-30SP", "NT-34SP (furnaces using the 12 VDC Fan Control module board)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a safety interlock that prevents the burner from firing without proven combustion airflow. Do not bypass, jumper, or defeat the sail switch — doing so can allow combustion without adequate venting, risking soot, carbon monoxide, or fire. Always leak-check gas connections after any service.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage, airflow, and a clean/free sail switch all check out but the furnace still locks out within ~30 seconds, have a qualified RV technician test the switch, motor, and module board.", "caveats": "The 30-second sail-switch lockout window is specific to the modern 12 VDC Fan Control module board described in the SF service manual. Older NT boards and the 24 VAC park-model board behave differently (the 24 VAC board runs the blower continuously until the sail switch closes rather than locking out).", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Furnace Service & Training Manual (SF 20/25/30/35/42 series)", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Operation for 12 VDC Fan Control Module Board — sail switch verification / 30-second lockout" }, { "title": "Suburban DYNATRAIL Furnaces NT-Series Service Manual", "publisher": "Suburban Manufacturing Company", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/NT-Series-Furnace-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Sequence of Normal Operation & Service Hints C (Blower Runs but Burner Does Not Light — sail/micro switch)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "DSI lockout", "code_slug": "dsi-lockout", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/dsi-lockout/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Suburban gas (DSI) water heaters do not show a numeric fault code. When you flip the LP switch, a small panel indicator lights for roughly 15 seconds while the board purges the line and tries to light the burner about 3 times over the next ~6 seconds. If it never proves a flame, the board locks out LP operation for safety and the indicator light stays lit, signaling a failed-ignition lockout. A separate failure mode is no ignition attempt at all (light may not engage normally), which usually points to a tripped 12V high-limit/ECO, low battery voltage, or no spark.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of propane, closed tank valve, or tripped excess-flow (overfilled/valve opened too fast) starving gas flow", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low 12V DC supply (under ~12V) so the control board misfires", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty or insect-blocked burner tube / air intake preventing a clean flame", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing or misadjusted spark electrode (no spark or weak spark) or fouled flame sense via the spark wire", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Tripped 12V high-limit/ECO so the board never starts the ignition sequence", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed gas valve, circuit board, or LP regulator delivering wrong pressure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm there is propane in the tank, the tank valve is fully open, and another appliance (stove, furnace) lights normally to prove gas flow.", "Check the RV battery / 12V supply is at a healthy voltage; low voltage commonly causes intermittent no-light, especially when boondocking.", "Verify the dedicated 12V fuse for the water heater is good.", "Look at the outside burner area for insect nests, mud-dauber webs, or debris in the burner tube / air intake and gently clear it.", "Press the reset button(s) on the back of the water heater (the LP side reset is for the 12V/gas circuit), then retry.", "Confirm the tank is full of water before any heating attempt." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the LP switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds, then turn it back ON to retry the ignition sequence.", "If an over-temperature (ECO/high-limit) trip is suspected, press both reset buttons on the rear of the water heater, then retry the LP switch.", "If the water is already hot, note the board may not attempt ignition until tank water drops below about 100°F." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DE", "SW10DEL", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "Suburban DSI gas/electric RV water heaters (5-16 gal)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane is explosive. If you smell gas at any point, STOP, do not operate switches, let it dissipate, and if the smell continues close the LP tank valves and get help. Never bypass or jumper the high-limit/ECO or thermostat. Anytime gas fittings are touched, leak-test with soapy water before relighting.", "call_tech_when": "Call a certified RV tech if the unit still won't light after confirming gas, 12V power, and a clean burner — or if you suspect the gas valve, control board, regulator/gas pressure, or flame-sensing circuit. Propane pressure (about 11 inches water column) requires specialized tools to verify.", "caveats": "Suburban gas water heaters use a lockout LED/indicator behavior, not a numeric or blink-count fault code, so there is no 'code' to read — diagnosis is by symptom. The 3 light attempts / ~15-second indicator timing and the 10-second OFF reset are from the Heartland-compiled Suburban troubleshooting guide; exact panel-light wording varies by RV manufacturer's switch panel. Always cross-check the specific model's Suburban owner manual.", "sources": [ { "title": "Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair (Suburban), Version 1.3", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum (owner-compiled, references Suburban product docs)", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting%20Guides%20and%20Tips/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.3.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting LP Mode; Hi-Limit/ECO Switch and Thermostat Assembly (pp. 11-12)" }, { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service Manual", "publisher": "Suburban (hosted by My RV Works, Inc.)", "url": "https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Suburban-Water-Heater-Service-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI ignition / LP troubleshooting section" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Electric ECO tripped", "code_slug": "electric-eco-tripped", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/electric-eco-tripped/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On gas/electric (DE) models, the 120V electric heating circuit has its own high-limit/ECO. If the electric thermostat fails to cut power at temperature, the ECO opens and stays open, cutting 120V to the heating element until manually reset. On the SW front face this is the left-hand reset button.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Electric thermostat failed to open at temperature, so the ECO tripped as backup", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Repeated over-temperature events indicating a degraded thermostat/ECO assembly", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Air pocket / low water exposing the element area to high temperature", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the tank is full of water before resetting (running the element dry destroys it).", "Press the left-hand (electric/120V) reset button under the rubber cover on the front face.", "If operation returns after reset, the thermostat likely failed to cut power; watch for repeat trips." ], "reset_steps": [ "Ensure the tank is full and water has cooled.", "Press the left-hand (120V electric) reset button on the front face.", "If both reset buttons are involved, the manual notes the left button is the electric reset and the right is the LP reset." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6DE", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL", "SW12DEL", "SW16DEL", "SW6PE", "SW10PE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "120V AC is hazardous. Disconnect/verify power before probing terminals. Never bypass the ECO or thermostat. If the element repeatedly shuts down and reset restores it, replace the thermostat/ECO assembly.", "call_tech_when": "The electric ECO trips repeatedly (the thermostat assembly needs replacement), or you are not comfortable working safely around 120V AC.", "caveats": "Applies only to combination gas/electric (DE, DEL, PE) models. Left/right button assignment per the Heartland guide (left = electric/110V, right = LP/12V); verify against the specific unit's labeling.", "sources": [ { "title": "Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair (Suburban) — Repeated Over Temperature Shutdowns / Hi-Limit-ECO reset (left = electric, right = LP)", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting%20Guides%20and%20Tips/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.3.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting Electric Mode, Testing the 110V Circuit / Repeated Over Temperature Shutdowns, pp. 6-7" }, { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — Thermostat & ECO Assembly", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Thermostat & ECO Assembly p. 21; Electric Heating Troubleshooting p. 18" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Electric element no heat", "code_slug": "electric-element-no-heat", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/electric-element-no-heat/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On gas/electric models, the 120V element produces no heat or water is not hot enough. The element circuit runs from the switch through the ECO and thermostat to the element; a break anywhere, or a burned-out element, stops heating. A burned-out element most often results from energizing it with no water in the tank.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Element burned out from being powered with an empty/dry tank (not warranty-covered; user error)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Tripped 120V breaker or ECO, or the secondary interior electric switch left OFF/pinned", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed electric thermostat not closing the circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Bad neutral or broken wiring in the 120V circuit", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Bypass valve set wrong or diffuser tube misplaced (water present but not heated where expected)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the tank is full of water before troubleshooting or re-energizing the element.", "Check that both the main and secondary 120V switches are ON and the 120V breaker has not tripped.", "Press the electric (left-hand) ECO reset button under the front cover.", "If you are competent with a multimeter and power is safely isolated, the manual references roughly 10 ohms across a good element (about 8-16 ohms is typical for the 1440W element); confirm 120V is reaching the element terminals before condemning the element." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fill the tank completely.", "Turn on both 120V switches and reset the electric ECO.", "If still no heat with 120V confirmed at the element terminals and the water is cool, the element is likely failed and must be replaced." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6DE", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL", "SW12DEL", "SW16DEL", "SW6PE", "SW10PE" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never run the electric element without water in the tank, even briefly, or it will burn out. 120V AC is dangerous; isolate power before touching terminals, and never bypass the ECO or thermostat.", "call_tech_when": "120V is confirmed at the element but it won't heat (replace element), the element fails repeatedly, or you are not comfortable working with 120V AC.", "caveats": "Combination gas/electric (DE/DEL/PE) models only. The factory manual cites ~10 ohms element resistance; field values for the 1440W element commonly read in the 8-16 ohm range. Confirm voltage at the element before replacing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — Electric Heating System Sequence of Operation & Troubleshooting (NO HOT WATER / element resistance ~10 Ohms)", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Electric Heating System Troubleshooting, p. 18; Operating Instructions for Units with Electric Element, p. 18" }, { "title": "Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair (Suburban) — Testing the 110V Circuit to the Heating Element / Checking Resistance", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting%20Guides%20and%20Tips/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.3.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting Electric Mode, pp. 4-9" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Gas ECO tripped", "code_slug": "gas-eco-tripped", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/gas-eco-tripped/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The gas-side ECO (Energy/Electric Cut Off, a high-limit thermostat) on the 12V DC gas circuit has opened because water temperature exceeded its limit, cutting the gas control circuit. The unit will not light until the ECO is manually reset. On the SW front face this is the right-hand reset button under the rubber cover.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Gas thermostat failed to shut off the burner, so the high-limit ECO tripped as a safety backup", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low water level / air pocket against the ECO sensor causing a false over-temp", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "ECO/thermostat assembly itself degraded and tripping early", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the tank is full of water before attempting any reset.", "Locate the rubber cover on the front face; press the right-hand button (gas/12V ECO) to reset.", "If it trips again soon after reset, suspect a failing thermostat." ], "reset_steps": [ "Make sure the tank is full and the water has cooled.", "Lift the rubber cover on the water-heater front and firmly press the right-hand (gas/12V) reset button.", "Restart the unit and verify it cycles off normally at temperature." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6D", "SW6DE", "SW10D", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The ECO is a safety device. Never bypass or jumper the ECO or thermostat; doing so can cause dangerous over-temperature, scalding, or tank damage. If the ECO trips repeatedly, replace the thermostat/ECO assembly.", "call_tech_when": "The gas ECO trips repeatedly even with a full tank and cool water, which indicates a failing thermostat/ECO assembly that should be replaced.", "caveats": "On Suburban SW units there are two reset buttons under one rubber cover: right-hand = gas/12V ECO, left-hand = electric/120V ECO. Button orientation can vary by model; confirm against the unit's own labeling.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — DSI Troubleshooting (Reset ECO if open) and Thermostat & ECO Assembly", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI Troubleshooting Chart p. 17; Thermostat & ECO Assembly p. 21" }, { "title": "Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair (Suburban) — Hi-Limit/ECO Switch and Thermostat Assembly", "publisher": "Heartland Owners Forum", "url": "https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting%20Guides%20and%20Tips/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.3.pdf", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting LP Mode, Hi-Limit/ECO section, pp. 6, 12" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "Gas valve won't open", "code_slug": "gas-valve-no-open", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/gas-valve-no-open/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The board is sequencing and spark is present, but the gas valve fails to open so no fuel reaches the burner and the unit cannot light. Diagnosed by checking for voltage to the valve during the trial-for-ignition and by gas-pressure and solenoid-resistance tests.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Insufficient or no LP gas pressure (the manual references 11-14 inches WC)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Low or missing voltage (10.5-13.5V DC) on the wire to the gas valve during ignition", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open or shorted gas-valve wire", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed gas-valve solenoid (out-of-range resistance, manual references ~30-50 ohms)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane tank has fuel and is turned on, and that the regulator is functioning.", "Confirm 12V power is healthy at the unit.", "Check that no inline gas valves or the bypass are closed." ], "reset_steps": [ "After confirming gas and 12V, cycle the switch OFF for 5-10 seconds then ON to retry ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6D", "SW6DE", "SW10D", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Gas-pressure measurement and gas-valve replacement involve the propane system and must be done by a qualified RV technician with a manometer and leak-test solution. Do not attempt to force or modify the valve.", "call_tech_when": "Gas supply and 12V are confirmed good but the valve still won't open; pressure/solenoid testing or valve replacement is needed.", "caveats": "Symptom-based fault. The voltage/pressure/resistance figures are the manual's diagnostic reference values, not user-serviceable settings.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — DSI Troubleshooting Chart (GAS VALVE DOESN'T OPEN)", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI Sequence of Operation & Troubleshooting Chart, p. 17" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "No reset light", "code_slug": "no-reset-light", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/no-reset-light/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On a DSI SW-series unit, the reset light failing to come on at all when the switch is turned ON indicates the control board is not getting power or the thermostat/ECO circuit is open, so no ignition sequence begins.", "causes": [ { "cause": "No or low 12V DC power at the ON/OFF switch (blown fuse, bad connection, low battery)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Gas-side ECO (high-limit) or thermostat is open, breaking the control circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Broken/loose wiring to the board or to the reset light, or a burned-out indicator bulb", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Defective module (control) board or switch/lamp assembly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm 12V DC (about 10.5-13.5V) is present at the water-heater ON/OFF switch.", "Check and replace the 12V fuse for the water heater in the RV power center if blown.", "Press the gas-side (right-hand) ECO reset button on the front face under the rubber cover in case the high-limit has tripped.", "Confirm battery/converter is supplying good voltage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore 12V power (replace fuse, tighten connections, charge battery).", "Reset the gas ECO if it was tripped.", "Cycle the switch OFF then ON and confirm the reset light now illuminates." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6D", "SW6DE", "SW10D", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on the gas-side control circuit at 12V DC is generally low-risk, but never bypass the ECO or thermostat. If a tripped ECO keeps recurring, the thermostat assembly is failing and must be replaced, not bypassed.", "call_tech_when": "Power is confirmed at the switch but the light still won't come on, pointing to a failed board or switch/lamp assembly, or wiring you cannot trace.", "caveats": "Not a numeric code; this is an indicator-light state described in the factory troubleshooting chart.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — DSI Troubleshooting Chart (NO RESET LIGHT)", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI Sequence of Operation & Troubleshooting Chart, p. 17" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "suburban", "brand_name": "Suburban", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "No spark / no ignition", "code_slug": "no-spark", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/suburban/water-heater/no-spark/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The control board is powered and attempting to light (reset light cycling) but no spark is produced at the electrode, or spark is present but the burner never lights. The board will run its three trials and then lock out.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Electrode gap incorrect, electrode dirty/carbon-fouled, or cracked porcelain insulator", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or shorted high-voltage electrode wire (including shorting to the closed appliance door)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Burner or orifice clogged with debris or spider webs", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Defective module (control) board", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With gas and 12V OFF, inspect the electrode for a clean tip, intact porcelain, and roughly a 1/8 inch gap.", "Look for spider webs or debris in the burner tube and orifice.", "Check that the electrode wire is firmly connected and not pinched against the door or cabinet.", "Lightly clean the electrode tip with emery cloth if lightly fouled." ], "reset_steps": [ "After cleaning/correcting the electrode and wiring, turn the switch OFF for 5-10 seconds, then ON to restart the ignition cycle.", "Confirm the burner lights and stays lit; if it lights momentarily then drops out, the flame-sense (electrode) connection or gap is likely the issue." ], "affected_models": [ "SW6D", "SW6DE", "SW10D", "SW10DE", "SW12DE", "SW16DE", "SW6DEL", "SW10DEL" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane safety: if you smell gas, stop and ventilate. Only attempt visual cleaning and gap checks; replacing the gas valve or control board should be left to a qualified RV technician.", "call_tech_when": "Spark and gas are both confirmed present but the burner won't sustain flame, or there is no spark after cleaning and a known-good wire/gap, indicating a failed board or valve.", "caveats": "Symptom-based fault from the factory chart, not a numeric display code. Correct electrode gap (1/8 in) and gas pressure (11-14 in WC) are the manual's reference values.", "sources": [ { "title": "Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual — DSI Troubleshooting Chart (NO SPARK / NO IGNITION / BURNER LIGHTS MOMENTARILY)", "publisher": "Suburban (Airxcel/RV Comfort), via PDX RV Wholesale", "url": "https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Suburban-Water-Heater-Master-Service-and-Training-Manual.pdf", "manualRef": "DSI Sequence of Operation & Troubleshooting Chart, p. 17" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Green tank LED", "code_slug": "green-tank-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/toilet/green-tank-led/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "The tank-symbol LED glows solid green. The toilet system is powered on and the holding tank is below the mid-level sensor (less than about half full). This is the normal, all-clear operating state.", "causes": [ { "cause": "System powered and tank below half full — normal operation", "likelihood": "most-likely" } ], "diy_checks": [ "No action needed; this is the healthy state.", "If the toilet still will not flush while green, check supply water, the inlet valve/pump fuse, and that water supply is turned on." ], "reset_steps": [ "None required." ], "affected_models": [ "Tecma Silence Plus 2G", "Tecma Elegance 2G", "Tecma macerating RV toilets with single tank-symbol wall switch" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "If servicing despite a green light, still disconnect 12V/24V power before working near the macerator blades.", "call_tech_when": "Light is green but the toilet will not flush or add water after checking water supply, fuses, and voltage.", "caveats": "Indicator only; a green light does not rule out water-inlet or power problems unrelated to tank level.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tecma 2G Silence Plus Toilet RV Owner's & Installation Manual", "publisher": "Thetford Corporation", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/98269E-OMIM-SilencePlus2G-R6.pdf", "manualRef": "98269 Rev. E, Operation — Symbol lighted Green = system ON and tank less than half full (A.4-3)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/toilet/green-tank-led/", "meaning": "Die LED mit dem Tank-Symbol leuchtet konstant grün. Das Toilettensystem ist eingeschaltet und der Fäkalientank liegt unterhalb des Mittelfüllstand-Sensors (weniger als etwa halb voll). Das ist der normale, störungsfreie Betriebszustand." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "No tank LED / off", "code_slug": "no-tank-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/toilet/no-tank-led/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The tank-symbol LED is not lit at all. The toilet system is off or is receiving no power. The wall switch will not respond and the toilet cannot flush until power is restored.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Toilet circuit breaker or fuse is off or blown", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or disconnected power/ground wire at the toilet or control module", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dead or very low house battery / no 12V supply", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed wall switch or control module", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the toilet's fuse and circuit breaker in the RV power center and reset/replace as needed.", "Confirm the house battery is charged and 12V is present at the toilet feed.", "Inspect the power and ground connectors at the control module for a fully seated, clean connection.", "Check for a blown in-line fuse on the switch panel if equipped." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore power at the breaker/fuse.", "Cycle the breaker off for ~60 seconds and back on to reset the controller." ], "affected_models": [ "Tecma Silence Plus 2G", "Tecma Elegance 2G", "Tecma macerating RV toilets with single tank-symbol wall switch" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Treat the circuit as live until you confirm it is off. House batteries can deliver very high current and cause burns or fire on a short — disconnect power before probing wiring, and do not bridge fuse terminals.", "call_tech_when": "Power and fuses are confirmed good at the toilet but the panel stays dark, indicating a failed switch or control module.", "caveats": "A dark panel only tells you there is no power/system-on signal; the underlying cause must be traced electrically.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tecma 2G Silence Plus Toilet RV Owner's & Installation Manual", "publisher": "Thetford Corporation", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/98269E-OMIM-SilencePlus2G-R6.pdf", "manualRef": "98269 Rev. E, Operation — Symbol not lighted = system OFF or not receiving power (A.4-1); Troubleshooting (No power / Low voltage)" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/toilet/no-tank-led/", "meaning": "Die LED mit dem Tank-Symbol leuchtet überhaupt nicht. Das Toilettensystem ist ausgeschaltet oder erhält keinen Strom. Der Wandschalter reagiert nicht und die Toilette kann nicht spülen, bis die Stromversorgung wiederhergestellt ist." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Red tank LED (full)", "code_slug": "red-tank-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/toilet/red-tank-led/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The single tank-symbol LED on the wall switch glows solid red. This means the system is powered on and the high-level (full) sensor on the holding tank has been triggered. The controller then locks out the water inlet so the bowl will not refill, which prevents you from adding more waste and overflowing the tank. The macerator pump itself stays available.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Holding (black) tank is genuinely full and needs to be dumped", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Tank level sensor probes coated with waste, tissue, or mineral scale giving a false full reading on an empty tank", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose, corroded, or damaged wire between the high-level tank sensor and the toilet control module", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed sensor or control module", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the actual tank level on your RV monitor panel or sight gauge before assuming the sensor is wrong.", "If the tank is empty but the light is red, the high-level sensor is usually fouled — flush the tank thoroughly with water and a tank cleaner and let it sit.", "Inspect the sensor wiring and connectors at the tank for looseness or corrosion.", "Verify supply voltage is roughly 12V (or 24V on 24V units) with no large voltage drop while the macerator runs." ], "reset_steps": [ "Empty/dump the holding tank if it is actually full.", "Turn the toilet off at its circuit breaker, wait about 60 seconds for the controller to fully power down, then restore power.", "If the light clears to green/yellow after the tank is emptied, normal operation is restored." ], "affected_models": [ "Tecma Silence Plus 2G", "Tecma Elegance 2G", "Tecma Silence Plus", "Tecma macerating RV toilets with single tank-symbol wall switch" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Disconnect 12V/24V power at the breaker before touching wiring or the macerator. The macerator has sharp blades and can start unexpectedly when powered — never reach into the bowl outlet with power on. Avoid bleach or petroleum cleaners in the system.", "call_tech_when": "The red light stays on after the tank is confirmed empty, cleaned, and the sensor wiring checks out, or if the macerator will not run after a reset.", "caveats": "Tecma uses one multi-color tank-symbol LED rather than numbered codes. A persistent false red on an empty tank from a dirty/stuck high sensor is widely reported by owners but the manual only documents the red = full-and-lockout behavior.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tecma 2G Silence Plus Toilet RV Owner's & Installation Manual", "publisher": "Thetford Corporation", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/98269E-OMIM-SilencePlus2G-R6.pdf", "manualRef": "98269 Rev. E, Operation — Wall Switch LED states and Full Tank Lockout (A.4-5, A.4-6)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/toilet/red-tank-led/", "meaning": "Die einzelne LED mit dem Tank-Symbol am Wandschalter leuchtet konstant rot. Das bedeutet, dass das System eingeschaltet ist und der Hochstand-Sensor (voll) am Fäkalientank ausgelöst wurde. Das Steuergerät sperrt daraufhin den Wassereinlass, sodass sich die Schüssel nicht wieder füllt; dies verhindert, dass Sie weitere Fäkalien hinzufügen und der Tank überläuft. Die Schneidwerkpumpe selbst bleibt verfügbar." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "toilet", "appliance_name": "Toilet", "code": "Yellow tank LED", "code_slug": "yellow-tank-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/toilet/yellow-tank-led/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "The tank-symbol LED glows solid yellow/amber. This is an informational level indication: the system is powered on and the holding tank has reached at least the mid-level (about half full). The toilet still flushes normally; this is an early heads-up that a dump will be needed soon.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Holding tank has filled to the mid-level sensor (roughly half full)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Mid-level sensor probes partially fouled with residue giving an early reading", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Cross-check against the RV's main tank monitor to confirm the level is plausible.", "Plan to dump before the level reaches the high (red) sensor.", "If yellow shows with a known-empty tank, clean the tank and sensors." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; the light returns to green automatically once the tank is dumped below the mid-level sensor." ], "affected_models": [ "Tecma Silence Plus 2G", "Tecma Elegance 2G", "Tecma macerating RV toilets with single tank-symbol wall switch" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Follow safe dump-station practice; wear gloves when handling waste connections. No electrical work is involved for a normal yellow indication.", "call_tech_when": "Yellow persists even though the tank has just been emptied, suggesting a fouled or faulty mid-level sensor.", "caveats": "This is a level indicator, not a fault. Exact half-full threshold depends on where the mid sensor is mounted on the specific tank.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tecma 2G Silence Plus Toilet RV Owner's & Installation Manual", "publisher": "Thetford Corporation", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/98269E-OMIM-SilencePlus2G-R6.pdf", "manualRef": "98269 Rev. E, Operation — Symbol lighted Yellow = system ON and tank at least half full (A.4-4)" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/toilet/yellow-tank-led/", "meaning": "Die LED mit dem Tank-Symbol leuchtet konstant gelb/bernsteinfarben. Dies ist eine informative Füllstandsanzeige: Das System ist eingeschaltet und der Fäkalientank hat mindestens den Mittelfüllstand erreicht (etwa halb voll). Die Toilette spült weiterhin normal; dies ist ein frühzeitiger Hinweis darauf, dass bald entleert werden muss." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "Red LED (steady)", "code_slug": "red-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/air-conditioner/red-led/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "A permanently illuminated red LED (LED 3) on the IR receiver indicates a general fault with the air conditioner.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Power supply or control fault detected by the unit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal protection triggered (e.g. temperature/pressure)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electronic/control board fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm a stable 230V supply and that breakers/fuses are intact", "Switch the unit off, wait a short time, then switch it on again", "Make sure intake/outlet airflow is not blocked and filters are clean" ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the unit off, wait a short time, and switch it back on", "If the red LED stays lit after restarting, the fault persists and service is required" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Aventa comfort", "Truma Aventa eco" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "230V mains voltage is potentially lethal. Do not open the air conditioner casing or touch internal wiring. Keep DIY to power checks and a power-cycle only.", "call_tech_when": "If the red LED continues to illuminate after switching off and on again, contact Truma Service.", "caveats": "The manual describes this as a general fault indicator without a specific numeric code; the remedy is switch off/on and, if it persists, contact Truma Service.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma Aventa comfort Operation and Installation Instructions — IR receiver / operating indicator (Red LED illuminates)", "publisher": "Truma / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/819899/Truma-Aventa-Comfort.html?page=6", "manualRef": "Section: IR receiver / operating indicator, 'LED 3 red – permanently on – (fault)'" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/air-conditioner/red-led/", "meaning": "Eine dauerhaft leuchtende rote LED (LED 3) am IR-Empfänger zeigt eine allgemeine Störung der Klimaanlage an." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "air-conditioner", "appliance_name": "Air Conditioner", "code": "W17A", "code_slug": "w17a", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/air-conditioner/w17a/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "230V mains power was interrupted and the compressor switched off as a result. On the air conditioner's IR receiver this shows as two LEDs flashing simultaneously; on a connected Truma control panel it appears as warning W17A.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Shore power / 230V supply briefly dropped or disconnected", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Weak or undersized power supply / voltage sag", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Tripped breaker or blown fuse on the AC circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Generator instability", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV has a stable 230V supply and the cord is fully connected", "Check that the relevant breaker/fuse for the air conditioner is not tripped or blown", "If on generator, verify it is supplying steady voltage", "Wait the mandatory 3-minute compressor restart delay before expecting cooling to resume" ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore correct, stable 230V supply", "Wait about 3 minutes for the compressor pressure to equalize; the compressor then restarts on its own and the unit resumes the previously set mode" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Aventa comfort", "Truma Aventa eco" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "230V mains voltage is potentially lethal. Do not open the unit or work on mains wiring. Limit any DIY to checking breakers/fuses and the shore power connection.", "call_tech_when": "If the warning recurs with a known-good, stable power supply, or if the compressor never restarts after the 3-minute delay.", "caveats": "W17A is shown only if a compatible Truma control panel is connected; otherwise the indication is the two simultaneously flashing IR-receiver LEDs. The 3-minute delay is a fixed protective wait, not a fault.", "sources": [ { "title": "Aventa IR receiver — two LEDs flashing simultaneously", "publisher": "Truma (official support)", "url": "https://support.truma.com/s/article/Aventa-IR-receiver-two-LEDs-flashing-simultaneously?language=en_US", "manualRef": "Truma support article: 230V interrupted, compressor off, warning W17A, 3-minute restart delay" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/air-conditioner/w17a/", "meaning": "Die 230-V-Netzversorgung wurde unterbrochen, und der Kompressor hat sich daraufhin abgeschaltet. Am IR-Empfänger der Klimaanlage zeigt sich dies als zwei gleichzeitig blinkende LEDs; an einem angeschlossenen Truma-Bedienteil erscheint es als Warnung W17A." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E2H / E16H", "code_slug": "e2h-e16h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/e2h-e16h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "VarioHeat ignition/flame fault: the furnace released gas and attempted ignition but no flame was detected. E2H and E16H cover the same family of causes — closed or empty gas supply, regulator icing, too much butane in cold weather, or a blocked combustion-air intake or exhaust.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Propane cylinder empty or cylinder/quick-acting valve closed", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Combustion-air intake or exhaust cowl blocked", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Regulator iced up or high butane content in cold weather", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Several failed ignition attempts causing a lockout", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm there is propane and the cylinder valve plus quick-acting valve are open.", "Light another propane appliance to prove gas is reaching the coach.", "Inspect and clear the exterior air/exhaust cowl of ice, snow or debris.", "In cold weather, use propane and consider a regulator heater." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fix the gas or airflow cause first.", "Switch the VarioHeat off at the CP plus panel and back on to re-attempt ignition.", "Allow a brief wait if the unit has locked out after repeated tries." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma VarioHeat eco", "Truma VarioHeat comfort", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane hazard: if you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not create any spark or flame. Do not service the gas valve yourself.", "call_tech_when": "Gas is confirmed available and the cowl is clear but the furnace still fails to detect flame.", "caveats": "VarioHeat is an air furnace (no water side), so its codes differ from Combi; E2H/E16H are the VarioHeat equivalents of the Combi gas-supply group.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma Tech Tip: Common VarioHeat Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma North America", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/truma-tech-tip-common-varioheat-error-codes/", "manualRef": "VarioHeat error-code tech tip (E2H/E16H)" }, { "title": "Truma CP plus VarioHeat Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting Chart VarioHeat (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1511523/Truma-Cp-Plus-Varioheat.html?page=13", "manualRef": "CP plus VarioHeat troubleshooting chart, codes E2H/E16H" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/e2h-e16h/", "meaning": "VarioHeat-Zünd-/Flammenstörung: Die Heizung hat Gas freigegeben und einen Zündversuch unternommen, aber es wurde keine Flamme erkannt. E2H und E16H decken dieselbe Ursachenfamilie ab — geschlossene oder leere Gasversorgung, vereister Regler, zu viel Butan bei kaltem Wetter oder ein blockierter Verbrennungsluftansaug bzw. Abgasauslass." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E43H", "code_slug": "e43h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/e43h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Over-voltage: the supply voltage to the heater is too high (Truma cites above roughly 16.4 V on CP plus / above ~15 V on older units). The electronics shut down to protect themselves.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery charger / converter or solar charge controller pushing voltage too high", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty or misconfigured DC power supply or charge source", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring/regulation fault feeding the heater", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the 12 V supply voltage at the battery with a multimeter and compare against the charger's expected output", "Check charger / converter and solar controller settings for an over-voltage condition", "Temporarily disconnect a suspected charge source to see if voltage returns to normal range" ], "reset_steps": [ "Bring the supply voltage back into the normal range; the fault generally clears on its own", "On CP plus, press and hold / double-click the displayed code and back out to acknowledge it if it persists" ], "affected_models": [ "Combi 4", "Combi 6", "Combi 4 E", "Combi 6 E", "Combi Eco Plus", "Combi Comfort Plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Electrical work near 12 V and (on E/Eco Plus models) 120/230 V components carries shock and fire risk. If unsure about charger configuration or wiring, use a qualified technician. Combustion appliance: if you smell gas at any point, stop and ventilate.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage is in spec but the over-voltage code persists, the heater electronics may be faulty — contact Truma service.", "caveats": "Voltage threshold differs slightly between CP plus (~16.4 V) and older flash-code list (~15 V); both confirm 'over-voltage'.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (official US site)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma Combi error code reference, E43H" }, { "title": "List of flash codes Combi 4 (E) / 6 (E)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM flash-code list via Dometic RV Centre)", "url": "https://www.dometicrvcentre.com.au/documentmanager/item/139", "manualRef": "Fault no. 43, over voltage higher than 15 V" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/e43h/", "meaning": "Überspannung: Die Versorgungsspannung der Heizung ist zu hoch (Truma nennt über etwa 16,4 V bei CP plus / über ca. 15 V bei älteren Geräten). Die Elektronik schaltet sich zum Selbstschutz ab." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E44H", "code_slug": "e44h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/e44h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Under-voltage: the supply voltage to the heater is too low (Truma cites below roughly 10.0 V on CP plus / below ~10.5 V on older units). The heater cannot operate reliably and stops.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Leisure/house battery discharged or weak and unable to hold charge", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Poor or corroded battery / ground connection causing voltage drop", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Undersized wiring or high load dragging voltage down while the fan runs", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage; charge the battery and retest", "Inspect battery terminals and the heater's negative/ground connection for corrosion or looseness", "Try running the heater with the engine running or on shore-charge to confirm low battery is the cause" ], "reset_steps": [ "Charge or replace the battery so supply voltage is back in range — the fault usually clears automatically", "On CP plus, if it persists, press and hold / double-click the displayed code and back out to acknowledge it" ], "affected_models": [ "Combi 4", "Combi 6", "Combi 4 E", "Combi 6 E", "Combi Eco Plus", "Combi Comfort Plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on 12 V wiring and batteries carries short-circuit and burn risk; disconnect power before tightening connections. Combustion appliance: if you ever smell gas, shut the gas off, avoid sparks, and ventilate.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery is good and connections are clean but the under-voltage code remains, have the wiring and heater electronics checked.", "caveats": "Threshold differs slightly between CP plus (~10.0 V) and older list (~10.5 V); both confirm 'under-voltage'.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (official US site)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma Combi error code reference, E44H" }, { "title": "List of flash codes Combi 4 (E) / 6 (E)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM flash-code list via Dometic RV Centre)", "url": "https://www.dometicrvcentre.com.au/documentmanager/item/139", "manualRef": "Fault no. 44, under voltage lower than 10.5 V" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/e44h/", "meaning": "Unterspannung: Die Versorgungsspannung der Heizung ist zu niedrig (Truma nennt unter etwa 10,0 V bei CP plus / unter ca. 10,5 V bei älteren Geräten). Die Heizung kann nicht zuverlässig arbeiten und stoppt." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "E112H / E212H", "code_slug": "e112h-e212h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/e112h-e212h/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Gas/flame fault group: the burner did not ignite or the flame was not detected, and/or combustion air supply or exhaust is restricted. E112-type points to no/lost flame (closed gas, poor earth, regulator/ignition); E212-type adds blocked combustion-air intake or exhaust or a defective gas-pressure regulation system. The unit locks out on gas operation.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Gas cylinder valve closed or the gas shut-off valve switch on the unit is off / out of gas", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Gas-pressure regulator failing (other appliances may still work because the boiler needs more gas)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Poor or missing earth/ground on the power supply or Combi minus connection (interferes with flame detection)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Combustion-air intake or exhaust cowl blocked by ice, slush, leaves or debris", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Dirty/worn ignition electrode, flame sensor, or faulty solenoid valve", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane cylinder valve is open and there is gas; verify the unit's gas shut-off switch is on", "Check that other gas appliances light normally (helps point at the regulator)", "Inspect the exterior combustion-air/exhaust cowl and clear any ice, leaves, or debris", "Visually check that the heater's ground/earth wiring is secure", "Switch off, wait, and attempt a clean restart on gas" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the cause (open gas, clear intake/exhaust, fix earth), then switch the unit off and back on at the panel to attempt re-ignition", "On CP plus, press and hold / double-click the displayed code until the menu appears, then back out to clear it", "If the lockout persists, some units have a reset button on the control PCB under a side cover of the boiler — only access this if you are competent; otherwise have it done by a technician" ], "affected_models": [ "Combi 4", "Combi 6", "Combi 4 E", "Combi 6 E", "Combi Eco Plus", "Combi Comfort Plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a propane/LP-gas combustion fault. If you smell gas: do NOT operate switches, ignition or flames — close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and leave the area before doing anything else. Do not clear repeated ignition lockouts without finding the cause; repeated failed ignitions can release unburned gas. Internal regulator/electrode/exhaust work should be done by a qualified RV gas technician.", "call_tech_when": "If gas is confirmed open, the intake/exhaust clear, and earth is good but it still will not ignite or the code returns, stop and have a Truma-qualified technician check the regulator, ignition electrode, flame sensor and PCB.", "caveats": "Truma's documented codes for the gas/flame group are E112H, E202H, E211H, E212H (and underlying fault numbers 112/116/117/202/212). The exact label 'W543'/'543' appears on some control panels/integrators for a flame-detection fault but I could not confirm '543' in a primary Truma table during this research, so the specific 543 mapping is treated as lower-confidence; the underlying meaning (flame/ignition failure) is well supported.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (official US site)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Error codes E112H, E202H, E211H, E212H (gas/overheat group)" }, { "title": "Truma CP plus Error Codes (Combi)", "publisher": "Ember RV (OEM-hosted Truma table)", "url": "https://data.emberrv.com/media/user_files/ApFvwAkxHw6gfuMwnYIFzcbe0nR8GVwe_230a07a19087878e2a386d196d864ce562b3234c78b52f1377865bb1b8bb2afa.pdf", "manualRef": "Codes 112/116/117/202/212: flame not detected, bad earth, gas closed, combustion air/exhaust blocked" } ], "confidence": 0.7, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/e112h-e212h/", "meaning": "Gas-/Flammenstörungsgruppe: Der Brenner hat nicht gezündet oder die Flamme wurde nicht erkannt, und/oder die Verbrennungsluftzufuhr bzw. der Abgasweg ist eingeschränkt. E112-Typen deuten auf keine/verlorene Flamme hin (geschlossenes Gas, schlechte Masse, Regler/Zündung); E212-Typen ergänzen einen blockierten Verbrennungsluftansaug oder Abgasauslass oder ein defektes Gasdruckregelsystem. Das Gerät verriegelt im Gasbetrieb." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "W18H", "code_slug": "w18h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/w18h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Warm-air outlet or circulated-air (return air) intake is blocked, so the unit cannot move air and shuts down to protect itself. On heating, blocked airflow causes the heat exchanger to run too hot.", "causes": [ { "cause": "A warm-air outlet vent or ducting hose is covered, kinked, or blocked", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "The circulated-air (return) intake grille is obstructed by furniture, bedding, or stored items", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Crushed or disconnected warm-air ducting reducing airflow", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the unit off and cool, check every warm-air outlet in the vehicle and make sure none are closed or covered", "Locate the return-air intake grille and clear anything stacked in front of it", "Visually inspect accessible warm-air ducting for crushes or kinks", "After clearing blockages, restart the heater and see if the warning clears on its own" ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the cause (clear the blocked outlet/intake) — the warning usually clears by itself once airflow is restored", "If the code stays on the CP plus panel, press and hold the rotary/selector or double-click the displayed code until the menu/'back' option appears, then back out to acknowledge it", "Switch the unit off and on at the control panel if the code persists after the blockage is cleared" ], "affected_models": [ "Combi 4", "Combi 6", "Combi 4 E", "Combi 6 E", "Combi Eco Plus", "Combi Comfort Plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a combustion (LP-gas/propane) appliance. Never block vents to 'force' it on. If you ever smell gas, shut off the gas at the cylinder, do not operate switches or flames, ventilate, and leave the area before troubleshooting.", "call_tech_when": "If outlets and intake are confirmed clear and the warning keeps returning, have a Truma service partner check the fan and ducting.", "caveats": "Truma displays the same fault as W18H on CP plus and as flash-code/fault number 18 on older panels; wording paraphrased.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (official US site)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma Combi error code reference, W18H" }, { "title": "Truma CP plus Error Codes (Combi)", "publisher": "Ember RV (OEM-hosted Truma table)", "url": "https://data.emberrv.com/media/user_files/ApFvwAkxHw6gfuMwnYIFzcbe0nR8GVwe_230a07a19087878e2a386d196d864ce562b3234c78b52f1377865bb1b8bb2afa.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus error code table, code 18" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/w18h/", "meaning": "Der Warmluftauslass oder der Umluft-(Rückluft-)Ansaug ist blockiert, sodass das Gerät keine Luft bewegen kann und sich zum Selbstschutz abschaltet. Beim Heizen führt blockierter Luftstrom dazu, dass der Wärmetauscher zu heiß wird." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "W25H–W29H", "code_slug": "w25h-w29h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/furnace/w25h-w29h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "VarioHeat voltage and airflow warnings: W25H = overvoltage above ~16.4 V; W26H = undervoltage below ~10 V; W27H = warm-air outlets or circulated-air intake blocked (or end outlet closed); W29H = imminent undervoltage below ~10.4 V. These let the furnace warn before a hard shutdown.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Low or failing house battery (W26H / W29H)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blocked warm-air outlets or return-air intake (W27H)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Charger/converter pushing voltage too high (W25H)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Closed or obstructed end outlet on a duct run (W27H)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "For W26H/W29H, check battery state of charge and charge or replace the battery.", "For W25H, check the charger/converter output for overvoltage.", "For W27H, make sure warm-air outlets are open and the return-air grille/filter is clear.", "Confirm no furniture, bedding or storage is blocking ducts or intakes." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the voltage or airflow condition.", "The warning clears automatically once voltage and airflow return to normal; if not, power-cycle the CP plus panel." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma VarioHeat eco", "Truma VarioHeat comfort", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never restrict the warm-air or return-air openings to silence W27H — blocked airflow can cause overheating. Observe normal 12 V and propane precautions.", "call_tech_when": "Battery voltage and airflow are confirmed good but the warnings persist, suggesting a sensor or board fault.", "caveats": "Voltage thresholds are nominal values from the Truma chart and may vary slightly by firmware/market. W18H/W17H/E43H/E44H/E112H are covered elsewhere and excluded.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus VarioHeat Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting Chart VarioHeat (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, ManualsLib)", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1511523/Truma-Cp-Plus-Varioheat.html?page=13", "manualRef": "CP plus VarioHeat troubleshooting chart, codes W25H/W26H/W27H/W29H" }, { "title": "Truma Tech Tip: Common VarioHeat Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma North America", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/truma-tech-tip-common-varioheat-error-codes/", "manualRef": "VarioHeat error-code tech tip (W27H, W29H)" } ], "confidence": 0.86, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/furnace/w25h-w29h/", "meaning": "VarioHeat-Spannungs- und Luftstromwarnungen: W25H = Überspannung über ~16,4 V; W26H = Unterspannung unter ~10 V; W27H = Warmluftauslässe oder Umluftansaug blockiert (oder Endauslass geschlossen); W29H = bevorstehende Unterspannung unter ~10,4 V. Diese ermöglichen es der Heizung, vor einer harten Abschaltung zu warnen." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E1", "code_slug": "e1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/e1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "No flame detected. The AquaGo attempted to ignite the gas burner three times and could not establish a stable flame, so it has locked out.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Propane tank empty or service valve closed", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Air in the gas line after a tank change", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low gas pressure or a faulty/closed regulator", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Faulty igniter or gas valve", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the propane tank has fuel and the service valve is fully open", "Verify other gas appliances (stove) light, to confirm gas is flowing", "After a tank swap, briefly run a gas stove burner to purge air from the line", "Check the regulator is set correctly and not in a bypass/closed state" ], "reset_steps": [ "Resolve the gas supply issue first", "Switch the AquaGo off at the control panel, wait a few seconds, then switch it back on to restart the ignition sequence" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma AquaGo basic", "Truma AquaGo comfort", "Truma AquaGo comfort plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This involves LP (propane) gas. If you smell gas, do not operate the unit, switch off the tank, ventilate, and do not create sparks or flames. Have any suspected gas leak inspected by a qualified RV gas technician.", "call_tech_when": "The code returns after confirming good gas supply, or if you suspect a gas leak, faulty igniter, or gas valve.", "caveats": "On analog panels the fault shows as a red LED blink pattern (long/short blinks) on the unit itself; on the CP plus digital panel it appears as an alphanumeric code. Exact code label may appear as 'E 1' in some manuals.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (manufacturer)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-aquago-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma US official tech tip, code E1 'No Flame Detected'" }, { "title": "Truma AquaGo basic Operating Instructions — Appendix A Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267437/Truma-Aquago-Basic.html?page=37", "manualRef": "Operating Instructions Appendix A, Error Codes table" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/e1/", "meaning": "Keine Flamme erkannt. Der AquaGo hat dreimal versucht, den Gasbrenner zu zünden, konnte aber keine stabile Flamme aufbauen und hat daher verriegelt." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E202H", "code_slug": "e202h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/e202h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Combi cold-weather gas fault: the gas-pressure regulation system has iced up so gas cannot reach the burner at the correct pressure. Typically appears in freezing conditions and is part of the gas-supply fault family on the CP plus panel.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Regulator iced up in freezing temperatures", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Moisture in the gas system freezing at the regulator", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High butane content failing to vaporize in the cold", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check whether outside temperatures are at or below freezing.", "Confirm the cylinder valve is open and the cylinder is not empty.", "Fit or use a Truma EisEx regulator heater for cold-weather operation if your setup supports it.", "Ensure you are running propane rather than a butane-heavy mix." ], "reset_steps": [ "Warm/de-ice the regulator (e.g. with an EisEx heater) and restore gas flow.", "Switch the heater off and on at the CP plus panel to retry ignition." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi 4 / Combi 6", "Truma Combi 4 E / Combi 6 E", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never thaw a regulator with an open flame. Propane safety: if you smell gas, close the cylinder and ventilate before doing anything else.", "call_tech_when": "Icing is ruled out and the code persists, or the regulator appears damaged.", "caveats": "In the official chart E202H shares its cause/remedy block with the other gas-supply codes; 'iced-up regulator' is the specific labeled cause associated with this subcode.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions p.17, fault code E202H" } ], "confidence": 0.82, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/e202h/", "meaning": "Combi-Kaltwettergasstörung: Das Gasdruckregelsystem ist vereist, sodass kein Gas mit korrektem Druck zum Brenner gelangen kann. Tritt typischerweise bei Frostbedingungen auf und gehört zur Gasversorgungs-Störungsfamilie am CP plus Bedienteil." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "E211H / E212H", "code_slug": "e211h-e212h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/e211h-e212h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Gas-supply / combustion fault group on the Combi: the burner could not run because gas is unavailable or combustion air/exhaust is blocked. The grouped codes E121H, E122H, E202H, E211H and E212H all point to the same family of causes — closed gas valve, empty or iced-up regulator, too much butane, a sealed exhaust/air path, or a defective gas-pressure regulator.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Propane cylinder empty or the cylinder/quick-acting valve is closed", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Combustion air intake or exhaust cowl blocked by ice, slush, snow or leaves", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Gas-pressure regulator iced up in cold weather", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High butane content in cold weather (butane will not vaporize below ~10 C)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Defective gas-pressure regulation system", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Verify the propane cylinder is not empty and the cylinder valve plus any quick-acting valve are fully open.", "Inspect the exterior cowl and exhaust/air openings and clear any ice, snow or debris.", "In cold weather, confirm you are using propane (not a high-butane mix) and consider a regulator heater (EisEx).", "Confirm other propane appliances (stove) light, to prove gas is actually reaching the coach." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the gas/airflow cause first (open valve, clear cowl, etc.).", "Switch the heater off at the CP plus panel and back on to attempt a fresh ignition.", "If it has locked out after repeated attempts, allow a short wait before retrying." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi 4 / Combi 6", "Truma Combi 4 E / Combi 6 E", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Propane hazard: if you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not operate any ignition source. Do not attempt internal gas-valve or regulator repairs yourself.", "call_tech_when": "Gas is confirmed available and the cowl is clear but the code returns, suggesting a faulty regulator, gas valve or electronics — refer to Truma Service.", "caveats": "Truma lists these as a grouped set in the troubleshooting chart; the exact subcode (211 vs 212) indicates which specific condition tripped, but the user-facing remedy is the same. E112H/E43H/E44H are covered separately and excluded here.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions p.17, fault codes E121/E122/E202/E211/E212H" }, { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma North America", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Combi error-code tech tip (E112/E202/E211/E212H)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/e211h-e212h/", "meaning": "Gasversorgungs-/Verbrennungsstörungsgruppe an der Combi: Der Brenner konnte nicht laufen, weil kein Gas verfügbar ist oder Verbrennungsluft/Abgas blockiert ist. Die gruppierten Codes E121H, E122H, E202H, E211H und E212H deuten alle auf dieselbe Ursachenfamilie hin — geschlossenes Gasventil, leerer oder vereister Regler, zu viel Butan, ein versperrter Abgas-/Luftweg oder ein defekter Gasdruckregler." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W17H", "code_slug": "w17h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w17h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Hot-water mode was selected while the water heater (boiler) is empty. The unit reports the empty-tank condition rather than heating a dry boiler.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Water system not filled / fresh-water tank empty or pump off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Boiler was drained (e.g. winterized via the FrostControl/safety-drain valve) and not refilled", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Safety/drain valve open so the boiler will not hold water", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Switch the system off and let it cool", "Confirm the fresh-water tank has water and the water pump is switched on", "Make sure the FrostControl/safety-drain valve is in the closed (operating) position", "Open a hot tap until water flows steadily so the boiler fills, then restart in water/hot-water mode" ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the unit off, fill the boiler with water, then turn it back on — the warning normally clears once the boiler is full", "On CP plus, if the code remains, press and hold / double-click the displayed code and back out to acknowledge it" ], "affected_models": [ "Combi 4", "Combi 6", "Combi 4 E", "Combi 6 E", "Combi Eco Plus", "Combi Comfort Plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not attempt to run hot-water heating on an empty boiler. This is a gas appliance — if you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, avoid ignition sources, ventilate, and leave the area.", "call_tech_when": "If the boiler is confirmed full and the empty-water warning still appears, the water/temperature sensor or valve may be faulty — contact Truma service.", "caveats": "Confirmed on the official Truma US tech-tip page; exact display wording paraphrased.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma Combi Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (official US site)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-combi-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma Combi error code reference, W17H" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w17h/", "meaning": "Der Warmwassermodus wurde gewählt, während der Warmwasserbereiter (Boiler) leer ist. Das Gerät meldet den Leertank-Zustand, anstatt einen trockenen Boiler zu beheizen." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W21H", "code_slug": "w21h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w21h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Room-temperature sensor warning on the Combi: the CP plus has detected that the room temperature sensor or its cable is faulty (open, shorted, or out-of-range resistance), so the heater cannot regulate to the set room temperature properly.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Damaged, pinched or disconnected room-sensor cable", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Failed room temperature sensor (out-of-range resistance)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or loose sensor connector", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the room temperature sensor cable for visible damage or a loose plug.", "Reseat the sensor connector if accessible.", "If you have a multimeter, the sensor should read roughly 16.2 kohm at 15 C, 12.6 kohm at 20 C, 10.0 kohm at 25 C." ], "reset_steps": [ "Repair or replace the sensor/cable as needed.", "Power-cycle the CP plus panel; the warning clears once a valid sensor reading is restored." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi 4 / Combi 6", "Truma Combi 4 E / Combi 6 E", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a low-voltage sensor circuit; still disconnect 12 V power before unplugging the heater electronics. No gas hazard, but observe normal propane precautions when restarting.", "call_tech_when": "The cable checks good and a known-good sensor still triggers W21H, pointing to a control-board fault.", "caveats": "Resistance reference values are taken directly from the Truma chart; the diesel-Combi equivalent code is E111H/E621H with the same meaning.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions p.17, fault code W21H (incl. resistance table)" } ], "confidence": 0.84, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w21h/", "meaning": "Raumtemperatursensor-Warnung an der Combi: Das CP plus hat erkannt, dass der Raumtemperatursensor oder sein Kabel fehlerhaft ist (offen, kurzgeschlossen oder Widerstand außerhalb des Bereichs), sodass die Heizung die Raumtemperatur nicht ordnungsgemäß auf den Sollwert regeln kann." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W27", "code_slug": "w27", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w27/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Water circulation pump running dry. The internal circulation pump is not detecting adequate water flow, usually because air is trapped in the lines or the unit is not fully filled/vented.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Air trapped in the hot water lines", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "AquaGo not fully filled with water after winterizing/draining", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Low fresh water level in the tank", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Closed valve or blockage restricting flow", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Ensure the fresh water tank has water and the pump is on", "Open each hot water faucet one at a time and let it run several extra seconds to bleed out air", "Start with the faucet closest to the heater, then work through the rest of the rig", "Confirm the AquaGo was properly filled after any draining or winterization" ], "reset_steps": [ "After purging air and restoring flow, switch the unit off and back on at the control panel", "The warning should clear once steady water flow is detected" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma AquaGo basic", "Truma AquaGo comfort", "Truma AquaGo comfort plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Running the pump dry can damage it. Do not repeatedly power-cycle without restoring water flow. No gas/electrical hazard for the DIY bleed steps, but keep electrical connections dry.", "call_tech_when": "The warning persists after the system is confirmed full of water and all air has been bled, which can indicate a failing circulation pump.", "caveats": "Shown as 'W 27' in some documents. On analog panels it is a red LED blink pattern; on CP plus it is an on-screen code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (manufacturer)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-aquago-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma US official tech tip, code W27 water circulation pump running dry" }, { "title": "Truma — Water Heater Model AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Forest River (component manual archive)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Appliance/Truma%20-%20Water%20Heater%20Model%20AquaGo%20Error%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Appendix A Error Codes, W27" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w27/", "meaning": "Wasserumwälzpumpe läuft trocken. Die interne Umwälzpumpe erkennt keinen ausreichenden Wasserdurchfluss, in der Regel weil Luft in den Leitungen eingeschlossen ist oder das Gerät nicht vollständig befüllt/entlüftet ist." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W29", "code_slug": "w29", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w29/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Excessive heat demand. The unit is running at full capacity but cannot maintain the target hot water temperature because too much hot water is being drawn at once.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Multiple hot water outlets running simultaneously", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Very high flow rate exceeding the heater's output", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Very cold incoming water reducing achievable temperature", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Reduce how many hot water taps are open at the same time", "Lower the flow rate at the faucet or showerhead", "Wait for the unit to catch up before resuming heavy use" ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce simultaneous hot water usage; the warning clears on its own once demand drops within capacity" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma AquaGo basic", "Truma AquaGo comfort", "Truma AquaGo comfort plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is an informational warning, not a fault. No DIY hazard. Be cautious of water temperature swings when usage changes.", "call_tech_when": "Rarely needed; only if the unit shows W29 even with a single low-flow outlet, which could indicate a sensor or heating issue.", "caveats": "Target temperature figure (around 120 F / 49 C) is the factory default and may vary by model/setting.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (manufacturer)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-aquago-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma US official tech tip, code W29 excessive heat demand" }, { "title": "Truma AquaGo basic Operating Instructions — Appendix A Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267437/Truma-Aquago-Basic.html?page=37", "manualRef": "Operating Instructions Appendix A, Error Codes table" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w29/", "meaning": "Übermäßiger Wärmebedarf. Das Gerät läuft mit voller Leistung, kann aber die Soll-Warmwassertemperatur nicht halten, weil zu viel Warmwasser gleichzeitig entnommen wird." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W30", "code_slug": "w30", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w30/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Risk of freezing. The temperature inside the AquaGo has fallen below roughly 27 F (about minus 3 C), warning that the unit could be damaged by freezing.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Ambient temperature below freezing while unit holds water", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Heater left unheated in cold weather", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Move the RV to a warmer location if possible", "Run the heater in eco or comfort mode so warm water circulates, if freezing is only marginal", "If storing in the cold, fully drain the AquaGo to prevent freeze damage" ], "reset_steps": [ "Warm the unit or drain it completely; the warning clears once the internal temperature rises above the freeze threshold" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma AquaGo basic", "Truma AquaGo comfort", "Truma AquaGo comfort plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Freeze damage can crack internal components and cause leaks. Draining is the safest option for cold storage. No gas/electrical hazard in the drain procedure, but follow the manual's drain steps to avoid water damage.", "call_tech_when": "If you suspect the unit already froze and you find leaks or no hot water after thawing.", "caveats": "Freeze threshold cited as approximately 27 F (-3 C) by Truma; exact trigger temperature may vary slightly by firmware.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (manufacturer)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-aquago-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma US official tech tip, code W30 risk of freezing below 27 F" }, { "title": "Truma — Water Heater Model AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Forest River (component manual archive)", "url": "https://forestriverinc.com/files/Component-Manuals/Appliance/Truma%20-%20Water%20Heater%20Model%20AquaGo%20Error%20Codes.pdf", "manualRef": "Appendix A Error Codes, W30" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w30/", "meaning": "Frostgefahr. Die Temperatur im Inneren des AquaGo ist unter etwa 27 °F (ca. minus 3 °C) gefallen und warnt davor, dass das Gerät durch Einfrieren beschädigt werden könnte." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W31", "code_slug": "w31", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w31/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Decalcification finished. A status message confirming the unit has completed its routine descaling (decalcification) maintenance cycle. Not a fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Decalcification/descaling cycle completed normally", "likelihood": "most-likely" } ], "diy_checks": [ "No action needed; this confirms maintenance completed", "Flush the unit per the manual after descaling so no cleaning agent remains before normal use" ], "reset_steps": [ "Return the unit to eco or comfort mode to clear the message and resume normal operation" ], "affected_models": [ "Truma AquaGo comfort", "Truma AquaGo comfort plus" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "If you used a descaling/cleaning agent, do not drink or use the water until the unit has been fully flushed per the manual.", "call_tech_when": "Not applicable; this is a normal completion message.", "caveats": "Decalcification is a feature of comfort/comfort plus models; the basic model does not run this cycle.", "sources": [ { "title": "Tech Tip: Truma AquaGo Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma (manufacturer)", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/tech-tip-truma-aquago-error-codes/", "manualRef": "Truma US official tech tip, code W31 decalcification finished" }, { "title": "Truma AquaGo basic Operating Instructions — Appendix A Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma / ManualsLib", "url": "https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1267437/Truma-Aquago-Basic.html?page=37", "manualRef": "Operating Instructions Appendix A, Error Codes table" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w31/", "meaning": "Entkalkung abgeschlossen. Eine Statusmeldung, die bestätigt, dass das Gerät seinen routinemäßigen Entkalkungs-Wartungszyklus abgeschlossen hat. Kein Fehler." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W42H", "code_slug": "w42h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w42h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Roof-window safety warning on the Combi: a window above the heater's exhaust cowl is open and the window switch has shut the heater down to prevent exhaust gas from entering the living space. The heater will not run until the window is closed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Skylight/window above the exhaust cowl is open", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty or stuck window switch reporting 'open'", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Window-switch wiring fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Close the roof window/skylight located above the heater's exhaust cowl.", "Confirm the window is fully seated so the switch registers it as closed.", "Check whether the same window switch is shared with the cooktop, which can also trip it." ], "reset_steps": [ "Close the window; the heater should allow restart automatically.", "If needed, switch the heater off and on at the CP plus panel after closing the window." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi 4 / Combi 6", "Truma Combi 4 E / Combi 6 E", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a carbon-monoxide / exhaust safety interlock — do not bypass or disable the window switch to silence the warning.", "call_tech_when": "The window is confirmed closed but W42H stays on, indicating a defective window switch or wiring.", "caveats": "Applies only to installations fitted with a window switch above the cowl; not all coaches have this interlock.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions p.17, fault code W42H" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w42h/", "meaning": "Dachfenster-Sicherheitswarnung bei der Combi: Ein Fenster über dem Abgaskamin der Heizung ist geöffnet, und der Fensterschalter hat die Heizung abgeschaltet, um zu verhindern, dass Abgas in den Wohnraum gelangt. Die Heizung läuft nicht, bis das Fenster geschlossen ist." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W45H", "code_slug": "w45h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w45h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Electric (230 V) heating warning on Combi E models: the heater is set to use the 230 V AC element but no mains voltage is present, the 230 V fuse has blown, or the overheating protection on the electric side has tripped. Gas heating may still work while this warning is shown.", "causes": [ { "cause": "No shore-power / 230 V AC supply connected or available", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown 230 V fuse for the heating element", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Overheating protection (thermal cut-out) on the electric element has tripped", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is connected to a working mains/shore-power source and the breaker is on.", "Check that the 230 V supply is actually live (other AC outlets working).", "Switch to gas mode to confirm the heater otherwise functions." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the 230 V supply or replace the 230 V fuse per the Combi operating instructions.", "If the overheating protection tripped, reset it following the Combi operating instructions after the unit has cooled.", "Reselect electric or mix mode at the CP plus panel." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi 4 E", "Truma Combi 6 E", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "230 V mains work is hazardous. Only reset the fuse/overheat protection as described by Truma; have an electrician or technician handle any internal AC wiring.", "call_tech_when": "Mains power is confirmed present and the fuse is good but the warning persists, or the overheat protection keeps tripping.", "caveats": "European manuals state 230 V; North American Combi E units use 120 V AC and the equivalent warning is described in the US tech tip. Only applies to Combi 'E' (electric/mix) variants.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions p.17, fault code W45H" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w45h/", "meaning": "Elektro-Heizwarnung (230 V) bei Combi-E-Modellen: Die Heizung ist auf den Betrieb mit dem 230-V-AC-Heizelement eingestellt, aber es liegt keine Netzspannung an, die 230-V-Sicherung ist durchgebrannt, oder der Überhitzungsschutz auf der elektrischen Seite hat ausgelöst. Der Gasbetrieb kann möglicherweise noch funktionieren, während diese Warnung angezeigt wird." } }, { "brand": "truma", "brand_name": "Truma", "appliance": "water-heater", "appliance_name": "Water Heater", "code": "W255H", "code_slug": "w255h", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/truma/water-heater/w255h/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Communication/power warning: the heater is not receiving 12 V DC power, or the CP plus control panel has lost its connection to the heater electronics. A steadily shown W255H usually points to power/wiring; a blinking W255H can also appear after several failed ignition attempts without adequate gas supply, or when the master switch was turned off.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blown or corroded 12 V fuse feeding the heater", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or damaged blue control-panel data cable between CP plus and heater", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Battery disconnect / master switch turned off so the heater has no 12 V", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Repeated failed ignition with no/low propane (blinking variant)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Heater electronics fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV battery/master switch is on and the battery has a healthy charge.", "Check the 12 V fuse that feeds the Truma heater and replace if blown.", "Inspect the control-panel data cable plug at both the CP plus panel and the heater for a loose or backed-out connector.", "Turn the system fully off at the panel, wait about a minute, then power back on to clear a transient warning." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the heater off at the CP plus panel.", "Cycle the 12 V power (master switch off, then on) and ensure the fuse is intact.", "Turn the heater back on at the panel; the code should clear once 12 V and the data link are restored." ], "affected_models": [ "Truma Combi (Combi 4 / Combi 6 / Combi 4 E / Combi 6 E)", "Truma Combi D (diesel)", "Truma VarioHeat", "CP plus control panel" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work only with the 12 V system; do not bypass fuses with higher-rated ones. Never relight a gas heater if you smell propane — shut off the cylinder and ventilate.", "call_tech_when": "12 V power and the data cable are confirmed good but W255H persists, indicating a control board or harness fault.", "caveats": "Behavior differs slightly between the analog CP classic (shows as no-communication) and digital CP plus (W255H). The blinking-after-failed-ignition behavior is documented in Truma support materials but the steady code is primarily a 12 V/connection fault.", "sources": [ { "title": "Truma Tech Tip: Common VarioHeat Error Codes", "publisher": "Truma North America", "url": "https://www.truma.com/us/truma-tech-tip-common-varioheat-error-codes/", "manualRef": "VarioHeat error-code tech tip (W255H)" }, { "title": "Truma CP plus Operating Instructions — Troubleshooting guide for Combi gas heater (H)", "publisher": "Truma (OEM-hosted, Imperial Outdoors)", "url": "https://imperial-outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/truma-heating-cp-plus-operating-instructions-EN.pdf", "manualRef": "CP plus operating instructions, fault code W255H" }, { "title": "W255H in CP plus display or no more symbols in display after reset", "publisher": "Truma Service Blog", "url": "https://serviceblog.truma.com/en/2021/06/08/w255h-in-cp-plus-display-or-no-more-symbols-in-display-after-reset/", "manualRef": "Truma service blog, W255H" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/truma/water-heater/w255h/", "meaning": "Kommunikations-/Stromwarnung: Die Heizung erhält keine 12-V-DC-Stromversorgung, oder das CP-plus-Bedienteil hat die Verbindung zur Heizungselektronik verloren. Ein dauerhaft angezeigtes W255H deutet meist auf ein Strom-/Verkabelungsproblem hin; ein blinkendes W255H kann auch nach mehreren fehlgeschlagenen Zündversuchen ohne ausreichende Gasversorgung erscheinen oder wenn der Hauptschalter ausgeschaltet wurde." } }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 1", "code_slug": "error-1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery temperature too high. The charger halts charging to protect the battery and will start again on its own once the battery cools. When no external temperature sensor is fitted, the charger assumes at startup or in float that its own temperature and the battery temperature are similar.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Genuine high battery temperature (hot install location, heavy charge/discharge cycling)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Charger mounted somewhere hot so its internal temperature estimate is high (no external sensor fitted)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Poor ventilation around the battery or charger", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the actual battery temperature by hand/with a thermometer; let it cool before expecting charging to resume.", "Improve airflow around both the battery and the charger.", "If an external temperature sensor is used, confirm it is fitted to the battery and reading correctly in VictronConnect." ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed; the error auto-clears once the temperature drops to a safe level." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A hot battery can indicate an internal fault; lead-acid can vent flammable/corrosive gas and lithium can enter thermal runaway. Do not charge a battery that is hot to the touch, swollen, or leaking. Keep ignition sources away and ensure ventilation.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery runs hot under normal conditions, is swollen, or the error persists with a cool battery, stop charging and have the battery and install checked by a professional.", "caveats": "Confirmed for the Orion XS. The temperature-assumption behaviour applies when no external sensor is connected.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 1 - Battery temperature too high" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 21", "code_slug": "error-21", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-21/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Current sensor problem. The measured charge current is out of the expected range, suggesting a current-measurement fault. This error does not clear by itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Transient wiring/connection issue affecting current measurement", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal current-sensor hardware defect", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Disconnect all wires from the charger, then reconnect them firmly to trigger a restart.", "Check input and output terminals for loose or corroded connections." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect and reconnect all wiring to restart the unit.", "If the error returns after a clean reconnection, the unit likely has a hardware fault." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Always isolate the DC input and output before disconnecting terminals to avoid arcing and short circuits. A faulty current sensor can mean charging is uncontrolled, so do not keep cycling a unit that repeatedly faults.", "call_tech_when": "If error 21 persists after disconnecting and reconnecting all wiring, contact your Victron dealer; this typically indicates a hardware defect.", "caveats": "Confirmed for the Orion XS troubleshooting documentation.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 21 - Current sensor issue" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 26", "code_slug": "error-26", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-26/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Terminal overheated. The power terminals are running too hot, usually from a poor or undersized connection. The charger reduces output to protect itself and clears the error automatically once the terminals cool.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose terminal bolts not torqued correctly", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Undersized cable or wrong wire/strand type for the current", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or oxidised terminal contact", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With power isolated, check that terminal bolts are tightened to spec.", "Verify cable gauge and strand type are correct for the charger's current.", "Inspect terminals for corrosion or heat discolouration and clean/replace as needed." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the wiring/connection issue.", "The error auto-resets once the terminals cool down." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger", "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger (Isolated)", "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger (Non-Isolated)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheated DC terminals are a fire risk. Always disconnect both input and output before touching terminals; hot connections can ignite nearby material and damage insulation. Do not run the charger with known hot or loose terminals.", "call_tech_when": "If terminals overheat even with correct cable size, correct torque and clean contacts, have the install and unit inspected.", "caveats": "Documented identically for both the Orion XS and Orion-Tr Smart families.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 26 - Terminal overheated" }, { "title": "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Non-Isolated - Troubleshooting", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion-Tr_Smart_DC-DC_Charger_-_Non-Isolated/en/troubleshooting.html", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, Error 26 - Terminal overheated" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 33", "code_slug": "error-33", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-33/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Input voltage too high. The DC input voltage feeding the charger has exceeded its safe limit, so the charger stops. It recovers automatically once the input voltage falls back into the allowed range.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Vehicle/source alternator or DC supply pushing voltage above the charger input rating", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Voltage spike from another charging source on the same input", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Incorrect 24 V source connected to a 12 V input model", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the input (source) voltage with a multimeter and compare it to the charger's rated input range.", "Check for other charging equipment feeding the same input bus that could raise the voltage.", "Confirm the charger model matches the system voltage of the source." ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset required; the charger restarts automatically once input voltage drops to a safe value." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Over-voltage on the DC input can stress wiring and downstream equipment. Disconnect the input source before checking or re-terminating any DC cabling, and verify fuse ratings.", "call_tech_when": "If input voltage repeatedly exceeds the limit during normal engine running, have the alternator/charging source and regulation checked.", "caveats": "Confirmed for the Orion XS; the exact voltage threshold depends on the model and is not restated here to avoid copying manual figures.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 33 - Input voltage too high" } ], "confidence": 0.86, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 67", "code_slug": "error-67", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-67/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The charger is set to be controlled by a battery BMS but is no longer receiving any BMS messages. To protect the battery it stops charging by dropping its output to the battery base voltage (about 12 V). This shows up roughly 3 minutes after the BMS communication is lost.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Lost or broken communication cable between the BMS and the charger (VE.Direct / BMS-Can / wired link)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "BMS powered down, in sleep, or itself in a fault/disconnect state", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Charger still configured for external BMS control after the BMS was removed or replaced", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose connector or corroded pins on the communication port", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the BMS is powered on and reporting normally in VictronConnect / on the GX device.", "Inspect and reseat the communication cable at both ends; look for bent pins or corrosion.", "Swap in a known-good communication cable if you have one.", "If you intentionally removed the BMS, open VictronConnect and turn off BMS-controlled charging in the charger settings." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the BMS communication link or correct the charger setting.", "The charger normally resumes on its own once valid BMS messages return; if not, cycle input power off, wait, then back on." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not bypass or defeat a BMS to force charging. A BMS protects lithium batteries from overcharge, over-discharge and cold-charging; ignoring its control can cause cell damage, venting or fire. Work on DC wiring only with the input source isolated.", "call_tech_when": "If communication and settings are correct but the error keeps returning, or if the BMS itself reports faults, contact your installer or Victron dealer.", "caveats": "Base/recovery voltage figures cited (~12 V) apply to 12 V Orion XS models; behaviour and timing are from the official Orion XS troubleshooting page.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 67 - BMS connection lost" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Error 119", "code_slug": "error-119", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/converter/error-119/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Settings data lost. The charger cannot read its stored configuration and has stopped charging. It does not recover automatically and must be reset and reconfigured.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Corrupted internal configuration memory", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Interrupted or failed configuration write/firmware operation", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Internal hardware fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "In VictronConnect, restore the charger to factory defaults.", "Note your intended settings beforehand so you can re-enter them." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore factory defaults in VictronConnect.", "Disconnect the charger from all power sources and wait about 3 minutes.", "Power it back up and reconfigure all settings.", "Report the occurrence to your Victron dealer." ], "affected_models": [ "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC charger", "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger (Isolated)", "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger (Non-Isolated)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Isolate input and output power before the 3-minute power-down step. After reconfiguring, double-check charge voltages match your battery chemistry to avoid overcharging.", "call_tech_when": "If the error returns after a factory reset and full reconfiguration, the unit may be faulty; contact your dealer.", "caveats": "Documented for both Orion XS and Orion-Tr Smart families with the same reset procedure.", "sources": [ { "title": "Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC battery charger - Troubleshooting & Support", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/troubleshooting---support.html", "manualRef": "Section 5, Error 119 - Settings data lost" }, { "title": "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated - Troubleshooting", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion-Tr_Smart_DC-DC_Charger_-_Isolated/en/troubleshooting.html", "manualRef": "Troubleshooting, Error 119 - Settings data lost" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "VE.Bus Error 3 / 4 / 17", "code_slug": "ve-bus-error-3-4-17", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/inverter/ve-bus-error-3-4-17/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Communication / device-detection faults in a parallel, split-phase or three-phase MultiPlus/Quattro system. Error 3 = not all (or more than) the expected devices were found; Error 4 = no other device found; Error 17 = the phase master is missing (communication timeout). In all three the units cannot see each other properly on the VE.Bus.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Faulty, self-made or poorly seated VE.Bus (RJ45) communication cables", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blown DC fuse on one of the units so it dropped off the bus", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Configuration mismatch or one unit switched off (resolve any Error 1 first)", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect all VE.Bus RJ45 cables and connectors; reseat them and replace any self-made cables with factory patch leads", "Check the DC fuses on each inverter/charger", "If one phase/unit is off due to overload, low battery or temperature (Error 1), fix that first", "Confirm the system configuration matches the number of installed units" ], "reset_steps": [ "Error 4 often appears briefly during a restart and clears itself — wait and observe", "After fixing cabling/fuses, the system normally auto-restarts" ], "affected_models": [ "MultiPlus", "MultiPlus-II", "Quattro", "MultiGrid", "EasySolar" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "These inverter/chargers handle both lethal AC mains voltage and high-current DC. Switch the unit off and isolate AC and DC before opening enclosures or touching fuses. Large battery banks can deliver dangerous short-circuit currents.", "call_tech_when": "Cabling, fuses and configuration are all confirmed good but the communication error persists, or you are not comfortable working inside a live AC/DC system.", "caveats": "Grouped because Errors 3, 4 and 17 are the closely related VE.Bus communication/device-detection faults with the same primary fixes (cabling, fuses, config). Each also has its own entry on the official page.", "sources": [ { "title": "VE.Bus Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.bus:ve.bus_error_codes", "manualRef": "Error 3, 4, 17 — device detection / phase master" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "VE.Bus Error 11", "code_slug": "ve-bus-error-11", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/inverter/ve-bus-error-11/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Relay test fault. The unit's automatic internal ground-relay self-test failed. This is often an installation/wiring issue but can also indicate an actual relay hardware failure.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Incorrect neutral-ground bonding or AC wiring not matching local code", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Line/neutral swapped or wrong polarity", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Genuine internal relay failure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Update the unit to the latest firmware", "Verify the neutral-to-ground connection and that wiring follows local electrical rules", "Temporarily disconnect AC-out loads to rule out a downstream wiring fault", "Check line/neutral polarity on the AC input" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct any wiring fault, then switch the unit Off and back On to re-run the relay self-test" ], "affected_models": [ "MultiPlus-II", "EasySolar-II", "Quattro-II" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The ground relay is a safety device — do not bypass it. Neutral-ground and polarity work involves lethal AC voltage and should be carried out or checked by a qualified electrician. Isolate AC and DC before any internal inspection.", "call_tech_when": "Wiring and firmware are correct but Error 11 persists, which points to a failed relay needing service/replacement.", "caveats": "Official page lists Error 11 as a failed ground-relay self-test (installation error or relay failure).", "sources": [ { "title": "VE.Bus Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.bus:ve.bus_error_codes", "manualRef": "Error 11 — Relay test fault" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 1", "code_slug": "err-1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-1/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery temperature too high. The charge controller has stopped charging because the battery temperature it is reading (via a connected temperature sensor or a Smart Battery Sense / VE.Smart network) is above the safe limit.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery genuinely too hot (poor ventilation, hot ambient, hard charging)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Temperature sensor reading is wrong or sensor/wiring fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the battery bank is hot to the touch and improve ventilation/airflow around it", "Check the temperature sensor (Smart Battery Sense or T-sense) is mounted on the battery and wired correctly", "Let the bank cool; the error auto-resets once temperature drops to a safe value" ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed: the controller resumes charging automatically after the battery temperature falls back into range" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A hot lead-acid battery can vent flammable, explosive hydrogen gas and corrosive acid. Do not charge in an enclosed space, keep sparks and flames away, and wear eye protection. Solar (PV) wiring can carry lethal DC voltage even with the controller off — treat PV+ and PV- as live.", "call_tech_when": "The error persists when the battery is clearly cool, suggesting a defective temperature sensor or controller.", "caveats": "Title and behavior confirmed on the official Victron error-code page. A widely copied third-party page mislabels Err 1 as a battery-voltage-setting problem; that is incorrect.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 1 — Battery temperature too high" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 2", "code_slug": "err-2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Battery voltage too high. The controller stopped charging because the battery voltage rose above its safe limit.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Another charge source (alternator, AC charger, second MPPT) pushing the bank high at the same time", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Battery system voltage set lower in the app than the actual connected battery", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal controller fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "In VictronConnect confirm the configured battery voltage (12/24/36/48 V) matches the actual battery", "Check whether other chargers are charging the same bank simultaneously and coordinate their voltage limits", "Review the configured absorption/float voltages for the battery type" ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed: charging resumes automatically once the battery voltage drops back to a safe level" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overvoltage can overcharge and damage batteries and produce explosive hydrogen gas. Never disconnect the battery while the panels are producing — disconnect PV first, then the battery. PV strings remain live in daylight.", "call_tech_when": "Voltage settings are correct, no other charger is active, yet Err 2 keeps appearing — the unit may be faulty.", "caveats": "Title confirmed on the official Victron page.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 2 — Battery voltage too high" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 17", "code_slug": "err-17", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-17/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Controller overheated despite reduced output current. The internal electronics are too hot even after the controller already throttled its charge current to compensate.", "causes": [ { "cause": "High ambient temperature or poor airflow around the controller", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Heatsink obstructed or controller mounted in a hot, enclosed space", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the ambient temperature and ventilation around the controller", "Make sure nothing blocks the heatsink and there is open space above and below the unit", "Reduce surrounding heat sources or relocate to a cooler, ventilated spot" ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed: the controller auto-resets once it has cooled down" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Let the unit cool before touching the heatsink — it can be hot enough to burn. PV conductors stay live in daylight regardless of temperature; do not work on the wiring without isolating the array.", "call_tech_when": "The controller overheats even in a cool, well-ventilated location with no load, indicating an internal fault.", "caveats": "Official title confirmed. Some third-party pages confuse Err 17 with a temperature-sensor connector problem; that is not the official meaning.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 17 — Controller overheated despite reduced output current" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 26", "code_slug": "err-26", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-26/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Terminal overheated. The power terminals (PV or battery screw terminals) got too hot, usually from a poor or loose connection causing electrical resistance.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Loose terminal screw/bolt creating a high-resistance, heat-generating joint", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Undersized cable or wrong wire strand type for the current", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or dirty terminal contact", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With everything safely de-energized, inspect PV and battery terminals for discoloration, melting or corrosion", "Verify cable gauge is adequate for the controller's rated current", "Re-tighten terminal screws/bolts to spec once the system is isolated" ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed: the error auto-resets after the terminals cool" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheated terminals are a real fire hazard. Disconnect PV first (cover the panels or open the PV isolator) and then the battery before touching terminals. High-current DC arcs are dangerous and PV voltage can be lethal — if you smell burning or see melted plastic, stop and get a professional.", "call_tech_when": "Terminals are damaged/melted, or the error returns after re-tightening with correct cable.", "caveats": "Official page confirms terminal-overheat meaning and wiring/torque cause.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 26 — Terminal overheated" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 33", "code_slug": "err-33", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-33/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "PV over-voltage. The solar input voltage exceeded the controller's maximum rated PV voltage, so the controller shut down the PV input to protect itself.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many panels wired in series for the controller's max PV voltage", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Cold weather raising panel open-circuit voltage (Voc) above the limit", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Compare the array's cold-weather open-circuit voltage to the controller's maximum PV voltage rating", "Recount panels in series versus parallel for your model's voltage limit", "Reconfigure the string (fewer panels in series) if it exceeds the rating, especially in cold climates" ], "reset_steps": [ "No manual reset needed: the controller auto-resets once the PV voltage drops back below the safe limit" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "PV strings that overvoltage the controller carry dangerous, potentially lethal DC. Cold mornings raise voltage further. Always isolate/cover the array before changing string wiring, and never assume PV is dead in daylight.", "call_tech_when": "PV voltage is within rating but Err 33 persists, suggesting a measurement or internal fault.", "caveats": "Official title and auto-reset behavior confirmed.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 33 — PV over-voltage" } ], "confidence": 0.96, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 38", "code_slug": "err-38", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-38/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "PV input shutdown. The controller short-circuited its own PV input as a protective measure to stop charging and protect the battery from being overcharged (typically triggered by an over-voltage condition on the battery side).", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery voltage settings do not match the actual battery, causing an overvoltage trip", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Outdated firmware", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Internal controller fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "In VictronConnect verify the battery voltage and charge settings match the real battery", "Update the controller firmware via VictronConnect", "Disconnect the panels, then the battery; wait about 3 minutes and reconnect to clear it" ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect PV, then battery", "Wait at least 3 minutes", "Reconnect battery, then PV" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT (all)", "BlueSolar MPPT (all)" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Err 38/39 mean the unit deliberately shorted its PV input — do not bypass this protection. Disconnect the array (cover panels or open the PV isolator) before working. PV wiring stays live in daylight and the battery side can deliver very high fault currents.", "call_tech_when": "Settings are correct and firmware is current, but Err 38 keeps returning — the unit may be defective.", "caveats": "Err 38 and Err 39 share the 'PV Input shutdown' protection mechanism on the official page.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 38, 39 — PV Input shutdown" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "victron", "brand_name": "Victron Energy", "appliance": "solar-controller", "appliance_name": "Solar Charge Controller", "code": "Err 43", "code_slug": "err-43", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/victron/solar-controller/err-43/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "On the SmartSolar MPPT RS / inverting models, Err 43 is an inverter shutdown caused by a ground fault: the voltage difference between neutral and ground is too high.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Missing or incorrect neutral-to-ground bonding in the AC installation", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring/phase connection error", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the AC neutral-ground connection follows your local wiring rules", "Have the ground wire installation and phase connections checked", "Note this code applies to inverting MPPT RS-class units, not the basic SmartSolar charge-only controllers" ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the ground/neutral wiring fault, then restart the unit" ], "affected_models": [ "SmartSolar MPPT RS", "Inverter RS / MPPT RS Smart" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Ground faults involve potentially lethal AC voltages and shock/fire risk. Neutral-ground bonding and phase wiring should be done or verified by a qualified electrician. Do not operate the inverter with an unresolved ground fault.", "call_tech_when": "Any time the ground/neutral wiring is involved — this is electrician territory.", "caveats": "Err 43 on the MPPT error page is the ground-fault inverter shutdown for inverting RS-class units; it does not apply to standard charge-only SmartSolar controllers.", "sources": [ { "title": "MPPT Solar Charger Error Codes", "publisher": "Victron Energy", "url": "https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes", "manualRef": "Err 43 — Inverter shutdown (Ground Fault)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F00", "code_slug": "f00", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f00/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The heater's control unit (ECU) has an internal fault, the heater has been permanently locked out, or the built-in room-temperature sensor has failed. The heater will not run until the fault is cleared or the control unit is repaired/replaced.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal control unit (ECU) fault or end-of-line programming/checksum error", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Heater lock-out active after repeated faults (overheat, false start, etc.)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Control unit miscoded for the wrong fuel type or set to neutral/disabled", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Internal room-temperature sensor defective", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Customer/W-bus communication line defective", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the displayed code on a combination timer or count the long blink pulses on a rotary/Multi Control element (after five short signals, count the long flashes).", "Verify the heater was specified for your fuel (diesel vs petrol/gasoline) matches the installed unit.", "Inspect wiring/fuse and connector contacts for corrosion or looseness." ], "reset_steps": [ "To clear an active heater lock-out: switch the heater on, then remove the heater's fuse.", "Wait more than 2 seconds, reinsert the fuse, and switch the unit on again.", "If the code persists, the control unit likely needs professional diagnosis or replacement." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "This is a fuel-burning heater with a live exhaust. Never bypass the lock-out repeatedly to force operation - lock-outs exist to prevent unsafe combustion or overheating. Do not run the heater in an enclosed space without a properly routed, sealed exhaust; incomplete combustion can produce carbon monoxide.", "call_tech_when": "If the code returns after a single reset attempt, or if PC diagnostics show a control-unit/EOL/coding error, have a Webasto-trained technician handle it - a locked-out heater can only be returned to service after professional repair.", "caveats": "On combination timers codes F01-F15 show numerically; F16-F19 appear as '--'. The 2000 STC numbers F00 as 'defective control unit' and outputs heater lock-out separately as F12/HEX 07.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 00" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F00" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f00/", "meaning": "Das Steuergerät (ECU) der Heizung hat einen internen Fehler, die Heizung wurde dauerhaft verriegelt, oder der eingebaute Raumtemperatursensor ist ausgefallen. Die Heizung läuft erst wieder, wenn der Fehler gelöscht oder das Steuergerät repariert bzw. ersetzt wird." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F01", "code_slug": "f01", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f01/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "No start - the heater attempted ignition and, even after a repeated start attempt, no flame formed. The unit gives up and shuts down.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Out of fuel or blocked/kinked fuel line, or air in the fuel line", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Blocked combustion air intake or exhaust outlet", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Fuel pump not delivering (electrical or mechanical fault)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Exhaust temperature sensor fouled with deposits / failing glow plug or evaporator", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the fuel tank level - many F01 faults are simply an empty or near-empty tank.", "Look for kinked, leaking, or blocked fuel lines between tank and heater.", "Make sure the combustion-air intake and exhaust pipe are clear of dirt, snow, or obstructions.", "Listen for the fuel pump ticking during a start attempt." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the underlying cause (refuel, clear blockage).", "Switch the heater off and then on again to re-attempt a start.", "If it has locked out after repeated failures, perform the fuse-pull reset (see F00/F12)." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Repeated failed starts can flood the burner with unburned fuel. Always confirm the exhaust is clear and routed outside before retrying - unburned or partially burned diesel/petrol produces toxic exhaust including carbon monoxide. Never sniff the exhaust to test for fuel.", "call_tech_when": "If fuel and air paths are confirmed clear but the heater still will not light, or the glow plug/evaporator is suspected, have a technician check the fuel pump, glow plug and evaporator mount.", "caveats": "On rotary/Multi Control elements without a display, F01 shows as one long blink pulse after the five short lead-in signals.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 01" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F01 No start" } ], "confidence": 0.96, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f01/", "meaning": "Kein Start - die Heizung versuchte zu zünden und es bildete sich auch nach einem wiederholten Startversuch keine Flamme. Das Gerät bricht ab und schaltet sich aus." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F02", "code_slug": "f02", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f02/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Flame abort / flame failure - a flame was established but went out during operation and did not re-establish after a restart attempt.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fuel supply interruption: low fuel, blocked line, or air in the fuel system", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Partially blocked combustion air or exhaust path", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Fouled exhaust temperature sensor or worn evaporator", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check fuel level and lines for blockage or leaks.", "Inspect intake and exhaust for partial obstruction.", "Note whether the flame-out happens at a particular point in the cycle." ], "reset_steps": [ "Address the fuel/air cause.", "Switch the heater off and back on to restart.", "Clear any resulting lock-out via the fuse-pull procedure if needed." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A flame that repeatedly dies mid-cycle can leave unburned fuel and produce dangerous exhaust. Ensure the exhaust is fully sealed and vented outdoors. With petrol (gasoline) units, fuel vapor is highly flammable - keep ignition sources away when inspecting lines.", "call_tech_when": "If fuel delivery and air paths are good but the flame keeps failing, have a technician check the exhaust temperature sensor and evaporator.", "caveats": "On the 2000 STC the same flame-failure condition is also logged in hex as 03 / 83.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 02" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F02 Flame failure" } ], "confidence": 0.96, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f02/", "meaning": "Flammabriss / Flammausfall - eine Flamme wurde aufgebaut, erlosch jedoch während des Betriebs und baute sich nach einem Neustartversuch nicht wieder auf." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F03", "code_slug": "f03", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f03/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Supply voltage out of range - the heater's operating voltage was either too low or too high for a sustained period, so it shut down to protect itself and the battery system.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Undervoltage: weak/discharged battery, poor connections, corroded terminals (below 10.5 V on 12 V / 20.5 V on 24 V for >20 s)", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Overvoltage: alternator/voltage regulator overcharging (above 16 V on 12 V / 32 V on 24 V for >6 s)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "High resistance in supply wiring, fuses, or battery terminals", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure battery voltage and check it under load.", "Inspect and clean battery terminals, fuses, and the heater's power/ground connections.", "On overvoltage, have the charging system/voltage regulator checked." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the battery to a healthy charge or correct the charging fault.", "Switch the heater off and on again once voltage is back in range." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Work on the 12 V/24 V supply with the heater off. Corroded or loose high-current connections can overheat - do not bypass fuses. Have charging-system faults addressed before relying on the heater.", "call_tech_when": "If voltage is correct at the battery but the heater still reports F03, or if overvoltage points to a charging-system fault, have it diagnosed professionally.", "caveats": "On the EVO, F03 covers both under- and over-voltage; on the 2000 STC the FXX label reads 'Supply voltage too high' (overvoltage) while low voltage appears as hex 84. Voltage thresholds shown are for 12 V / 24 V systems respectively.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 03 (PC codes 84 undervoltage / 04 overvoltage)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F03 Supply voltage too high (hex 04 over / 84 under)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f03/", "meaning": "Versorgungsspannung außerhalb des Bereichs - die Betriebsspannung der Heizung war über einen anhaltenden Zeitraum entweder zu niedrig oder zu hoch, sodass sie sich zum Schutz von sich selbst und dem Batteriesystem abgeschaltet hat." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F04", "code_slug": "f04", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f04/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Premature flame detection - the flame/exhaust temperature monitor sensed a flame before combustion was supposed to begin, so the heater aborts as a safety measure.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Exhaust/flame temperature sensor still reading hot residual heat from a recent cycle", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Defective or out-of-tolerance exhaust temperature sensor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "On 2000 STC: residual fuel/air or fuel-system fault causing early combustion signal", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Let the heater fully cool, then retry - a hot restart can trigger this.", "Check the combustion air intake and exhaust for obstructions.", "On 2000 STC, verify the fuel system and fuel pump are functioning." ], "reset_steps": [ "Allow the unit to cool down completely.", "Switch off and on again to retry the start sequence." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not disable or bypass the flame monitor - it prevents the heater from running with uncontrolled combustion. Ensure the exhaust is clear and vented outside before retrying.", "call_tech_when": "If the code persists after cooling, the exhaust temperature sensor likely needs checking or replacement by a technician.", "caveats": "EVO uses the exhaust temperature sensor for flame detection; the 2000 STC additionally lists fuel-system checks for this code.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 04 (PC code 05)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F04 Flame detected prior to combustion" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f04/", "meaning": "Vorzeitige Flammenerkennung - der Flammen-/Abgastemperaturwächter hat eine Flamme erkannt, bevor die Verbrennung beginnen sollte, sodass die Heizung als Sicherheitsmaßnahme abbricht." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F07", "code_slug": "f07", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f07/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Fuel pump fault - the dosing/fuel pump circuit shows an open circuit or short circuit, so the heater cannot meter fuel reliably.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open circuit (break) in fuel pump wiring or connector", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Short circuit in the fuel pump or its wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed fuel pump (metering pump) itself", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Visually inspect the fuel pump wiring and connector for damage, corrosion, or chafing.", "Check that the pump connector is fully seated." ], "reset_steps": [ "Repair the wiring fault if found, then switch the heater off and on.", "Clear any lock-out with the fuse-pull procedure if the heater stays locked." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The fuel pump moves diesel or petrol - inspect with the system off and avoid sparks, especially on petrol units where vapor is flammable. Do not apply voltage directly to the pump to test it; Webasto explicitly prohibits direct component operation.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring is intact but the fault remains, the fuel pump should be tested and replaced by a technician.", "caveats": "On the 2000 STC, fuel-pump short (hex 08) and interruption (hex 88) are also logged separately; the FXX label is 'Fuel pump interruption'.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 07 (PC codes 88 open / 08 short)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F07 Fuel pump interruption (hex 08/88)" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f07/", "meaning": "Fehler der Förderpumpe - der Stromkreis der Dosier-/Förderpumpe zeigt eine Unterbrechung oder einen Kurzschluss, sodass die Heizung den Brennstoff nicht zuverlässig dosieren kann." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F08", "code_slug": "f08", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f08/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Drive/combustion-air motor fault - the fan motor has an open circuit, short circuit, overload, or is mechanically blocked, so the heater cannot run its combustion and heating-air fan.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fan wheel snagging, jammed, or blocked by debris", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Short or open circuit in the drive motor or its wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Motor overload protection tripped", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Worn/failed combustion-air fan magnets or drive unit (EVO)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "With the heater off and cool, check that nothing obstructs the fan/air intake.", "Inspect the motor wiring and connector for damage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove any blockage or sluggishness in the fan.", "Switch the heater off and on; clear a lock-out with the fuse-pull reset if needed." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never insert fingers or tools into the fan while powered. A blocked combustion-air fan can lead to incomplete combustion and unsafe exhaust - resolve it before running the heater.", "call_tech_when": "If the fan spins freely and wiring is good but the fault stays, the drive unit (motor with combustion and heating-air fan) likely needs replacement by a technician.", "caveats": "On the 2000 STC, fan short circuit and fan blocked are both grouped under F08 (hex 09 short, 15 blocked, 89 interruption).", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 08 (PC codes 09/89/15/95)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F08 Combustion air fan short circuit / blocked" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f08/", "meaning": "Fehler des Antriebs-/Verbrennungsluftmotors - der Gebläsemotor hat eine Unterbrechung, einen Kurzschluss, eine Überlast oder ist mechanisch blockiert, sodass die Heizung ihr Verbrennungs- und Heizluftgebläse nicht betreiben kann." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F09", "code_slug": "f09", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f09/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Glow plug / ignition unit fault - the glow plug (or electronic ignition unit) circuit shows a short or open circuit, so ignition cannot be performed reliably.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Open circuit (break) in the glow plug or its wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Short circuit in the glow plug or ignition spark generator", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Worn-out glow plug at end of life", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the glow plug wiring and connector for damage or corrosion.", "Confirm the connector is seated." ], "reset_steps": [ "Repair any wiring fault, then switch the heater off and on.", "Clear a lock-out with the fuse-pull reset if the heater remains locked." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The glow plug runs at high temperature. Let the heater cool before any inspection. Do not energize the glow plug directly to test it - direct component operation is prohibited by Webasto.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring checks out, the glow plug should be tested and replaced by a technician.", "caveats": "EVO labels this 'Glow plug defective' (F09); the 2000 STC labels the FXX output 'Glow plug / electronic ignition unit interruption' and also logs hex 19/99/0A/8A variants.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 09 (PC codes 19 short / 99 open)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F09 Glow plug / ignition unit interruption" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f09/", "meaning": "Fehler der Glühkerze / Zündeinheit - der Stromkreis der Glühkerze (oder der elektronischen Zündeinheit) zeigt einen Kurzschluss oder eine Unterbrechung, sodass die Zündung nicht zuverlässig durchgeführt werden kann." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F10", "code_slug": "f10", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f10/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Overheating - the heater exceeded its safe temperature limit and the overheat protection tripped. The unit shuts down to prevent damage and fire risk.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Restricted hot-air flow: closed/blocked outlet, kinked or crushed ducting", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Excessive back-pressure / high pressure loss in the air ducting", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Fouled or failing blow-out (overheat) temperature sensor", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Combustion or fuel fault driving temperature too high", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure all warm-air outlets are open and unobstructed.", "Check the full length of the hot-air ducting for kinks, crushing, or blockage.", "Confirm the air intake to the heater is not blocked.", "Let the heater cool fully before restarting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear the airflow restriction.", "Allow the heater to cool down completely.", "Switch the heater off and then on again; clear any lock-out with the fuse-pull reset." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Overheating is a fire-risk condition - do not defeat the overheat sensor or run the heater with blocked ducting. Never cover the warm-air outlet or store items against it. Repeated overheating events will permanently lock the heater out.", "call_tech_when": "If airflow is unobstructed and the heater still overheats, or it has locked out, have the overheat/blow-out sensor and combustion checked by a technician.", "caveats": "On the 2000 STC a separate gradient-overheat protection is logged as hex 17 / F (gradient exceedance). EVO groups blow-out sensor and PCB temperature-sensor overheat under F10.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 10 (PC codes 06/5B/17/5C)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F10 Heating unit overheated" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f10/", "meaning": "Überhitzung - die Heizung hat ihre sichere Temperaturgrenze überschritten und der Überhitzungsschutz hat ausgelöst. Das Gerät schaltet sich ab, um Schäden und Brandgefahr zu vermeiden." } }, { "brand": "webasto", "brand_name": "Webasto", "appliance": "furnace", "appliance_name": "Furnace", "code": "F14", "code_slug": "f14", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/webasto/furnace/f14/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "On the Air Top EVO 40/55: the blow-out (warm-air outlet) temperature sensor circuit has a short or open circuit. On the Air Top 2000 STC: 'gradient undershoot during start' - the overheat sensor is mis-positioned or reads too small a temperature rise.", "causes": [ { "cause": "EVO: short or open circuit in the blow-out temperature sensor or wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "2000 STC: overheat sensor wrongly positioned (temperature gradient too low)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "2000 STC: fuel supply problem causing slow temperature rise", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Inspect the relevant temperature-sensor wiring and connector for damage.", "On the 2000 STC, check fuel supply and that the overheat sensor is correctly seated." ], "reset_steps": [ "Correct the wiring or sensor-position fault.", "Switch the heater off and on; clear a lock-out with the fuse-pull reset if needed." ], "affected_models": [ "Air Top EVO 40", "Air Top EVO 40 B (petrol)", "Air Top EVO 40 D (diesel)", "Air Top EVO 55", "Air Top 2000 STC" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Temperature sensors are part of the heater's overheat protection - do not bypass them. Inspect with the unit off and cool.", "call_tech_when": "If wiring and sensor position are correct but the fault persists, have the sensor tested and replaced by a technician.", "caveats": "F14 has a DIFFERENT meaning between the two model families: blow-out sensor fault on EVO 40/55 vs start-gradient undershoot on the 2000 STC. Both are documented; treat the meaning per your specific heater.", "sources": [ { "title": "Air Top Evo 40 / Air Top Evo 55 - Fault Codes / Troubleshooting (Fig. 503)", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7390/webasto-air-top-evo-40-heater-fault-codes-troubleshooting-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.4, Fault code F 14 (PC codes 1B short / AB open, blow-out sensor)" }, { "title": "Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Fault Error Codes", "publisher": "Butlertechnik / Webasto", "url": "https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/cms/7349/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-heater-fault-error-code-manual.pdf", "manualRef": "Section 5.5, F14 Gradient undershooting during start" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/webasto/furnace/f14/", "meaning": "Bei der Air Top EVO 40/55: Der Stromkreis des Ausblas-(Warmluftauslass-)Temperatursensors hat einen Kurzschluss oder eine Unterbrechung. Bei der Air Top 2000 STC: 'Gradientenunterschreitung beim Start' - der Überhitzungssensor ist falsch positioniert oder liest einen zu geringen Temperaturanstieg." } }, { "brand": "wfco", "brand_name": "WFCO", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "Charge LED modes (red/green/blue)", "code_slug": "charge-led-modes", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/wfco/converter/charge-led-modes/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "On a WF-8900-AD Auto-Detect power center, an integrated LED shows the charge state. Red means the converter is in bulk (fast charge) mode at a 14.4 V target. The base color indicates the detected battery profile: green for lead-acid/AGM, blue for lithium. These are status indicators, not faults.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Red lit: battery is discharged, so the converter entered bulk/charge mode targeting 14.4 V", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Green: Auto-Detect selected the lead-acid/AGM charge profile", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Blue: Auto-Detect selected the lithium charge profile", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note the LED color to confirm the detected battery profile matches your installed battery type.", "Measure battery voltage; the converter holds 13.6 V in Power mode and targets 14.4 V in Charge/bulk mode.", "Remember that under heavy load the meter may read below 14.4 V even while in Charge mode, which is normal.", "Allow charging to continue; the unit drops to ~13.2 V float (Storage) once current draw stays low." ], "reset_steps": [ "No reset needed; these are normal operating states.", "To re-run Auto-Detect battery detection, disconnect AC and the battery briefly, then reconnect and let the cycle restart." ], "affected_models": [ "WF-8935-AD", "WF-8945-AD", "WF-8955-AD", "WF-8965-AD", "WF-8975-AD" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "During bulk charge the converter targets 14.4 V, which gasses flooded batteries; ensure ventilation. If the LED shows the wrong chemistry for your battery, stop and verify the profile before extended charging. Do not work on DC wiring with AC connected.", "call_tech_when": "The LED indicates a chemistry that does not match your battery and will not re-detect, or the unit stays in red bulk mode for many hours without the battery charging.", "caveats": "The WFCO manual describes the LED colors (red=bulk, green=lead-acid profile, blue=lithium profile) but does not publish a precise blink-rate table for each charge stage. Non-AD (older WF-8900) units do not have the lithium/blue Auto-Detect feature.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator's Manual WF-8900-AD Series Power Center", "publisher": "WFCO / Arterra Distribution", "url": "https://www.wfcotech.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/NEW_8900_AD_SERIES_Manual_3-24.pdf", "manualRef": "LED Indicators; Auto-Detect; Power/Charge/Storage modes (13.6 / 14.4 / 13.2 VDC)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "wfco", "brand_name": "WFCO", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "DC fuse red LED (blown fuse)", "code_slug": "dc-fuse-red-led", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/wfco/converter/dc-fuse-red-led/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Each of the eleven DC fuse positions on the WF-8900 fuse board has its own small red LED. When a circuit's blade fuse blows, that position's red LED lights up, pinpointing which 12 V circuit lost power. It indicates a blown fuse on that branch, not a converter fault.", "causes": [ { "cause": "An overload or short on that branch circuit drew more current than the fuse rating", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A pinched or chafed wire shorting to ground on the affected circuit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "A failed 12 V appliance on that circuit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Look for the lit red LED next to a fuse position (note: these are tiny surface-mount LEDs, barely visible).", "Pull the suspect fuse and inspect it for a broken element.", "Replace with a known-good ATC/ATO fuse of the same amperage (20 A on standard positions, 30 A on F10/F11).", "If the new fuse blows again, that circuit has a short or overload that must be found before re-fusing." ], "reset_steps": [ "Replace the blown fuse with the same type and rating; the red LED goes out when a good fuse restores the circuit.", "Do not install a higher-rated fuse to stop repeat blowing." ], "affected_models": [ "WF-8935-AD", "WF-8945-AD", "WF-8955-AD", "WF-8965-AD", "WF-8975-AD" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Never substitute a larger fuse; the rating protects the wiring from overheating and fire. If a fuse repeatedly blows, find and fix the short rather than upsizing the fuse. Disconnect power before extensive wiring work.", "call_tech_when": "A replacement fuse blows again immediately, multiple circuit LEDs light at once, or you cannot locate the short.", "caveats": "The board has 11 DC circuits; positions F10/F11 are 30 A (slide-outs/high loads), the other nine are 20 A max. LEDs are surface-mount and dim, easy to miss in daylight.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator's Manual WF-8900-AD Series Power Center", "publisher": "WFCO / Arterra Distribution", "url": "https://www.wfcotech.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/NEW_8900_AD_SERIES_Manual_3-24.pdf", "manualRef": "Blown Fuse Indicators on DC Fuse Board - red LED per circuit" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "wfco", "brand_name": "WFCO", "appliance": "converter", "appliance_name": "Power Converter", "code": "No DC output / reverse polarity", "code_slug": "no-dc-output", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/wfco/converter/no-dc-output/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "If a WF-8900-AD power center produces no 12 V output, WFCO's procedure points first to the reverse-polarity fuses on the fuse board, which double as the main link between the converter section and the DC bus and blow if the battery is ever connected backwards. Separately, a continuous audible alarm in the power center signals that incoming AC line and neutral are reversed.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery connected in reverse polarity, blowing the reverse-polarity fuses and cutting all converter DC output", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "No incoming 120 VAC (unplugged, tripped breaker, generator off)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Open inline fuse or loose connection in the battery wiring", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Incoming AC line/neutral wired backwards (triggers the audible AC reverse-polarity alarm, not a DC fault)", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Failed Main Board Assembly (converter section)", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the RV is on a live 105-130 VAC source and the main breaker is on.", "To test output, disconnect the battery cables at the battery and measure across them; 13.6-14.6 V means the converter is working.", "If output is 0 V, remove and inspect the reverse-polarity fuses on the fuse board (visual, then continuity test).", "Check for an RV-installed inline fuse in the battery wire and for loose connections.", "If a steady alarm sounds, suspect reversed AC line/neutral at the pedestal or wiring; do not ignore it." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect AC and the battery before replacing fuses.", "Correct any reverse battery wiring, then install reverse-polarity fuses of the same size and rating.", "For the AC alarm, correct the incoming line/neutral connection; the alarm stops once AC polarity is right." ], "affected_models": [ "WF-8935-AD", "WF-8945-AD", "WF-8955-AD", "WF-8965-AD", "WF-8975-AD" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "A reversed AC line/neutral makes chassis/outlets potentially live and is a shock hazard; do not use the RV's outlets until corrected. Disconnect AC and the battery before handling fuses, and never upsize a fuse.", "call_tech_when": "Reverse-polarity fuses are intact and AC is present but output still reads 0.0 V (the Main Board Assembly may be defective), fuses blow repeatedly, or the AC reverse-polarity alarm persists after checking the connection.", "caveats": "Reverse-polarity fuse count/rating varies by model (e.g., WF-8935-AD one 40 A; WF-8945-AD two 30 A; WF-8975-AD four 20 A). The expected good-output reading is 13.6 VDC +/-0.2 measured across the negative lug and VCC lug on the fuse board, or 13.6-14.6 V at the battery depending on charge stage.", "sources": [ { "title": "Operator's Manual WF-8900-AD Series Power Center", "publisher": "WFCO / Arterra Distribution", "url": "https://www.wfcotech.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/NEW_8900_AD_SERIES_Manual_3-24.pdf", "manualRef": "Checking Converter Output Voltage; Reverse Polarity Fuses; AC Reverse Polarity audible alarm; Troubleshooting Flow Chart" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "xantrex", "brand_name": "Xantrex", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "E01", "code_slug": "e01", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/xantrex/inverter/e01/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The battery voltage has fallen low enough that the inverter is about to shut down to avoid over-discharging the battery. After the low-battery shutdown delay, inverter output stops.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery bank is discharged or near empty", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Undersized or loose DC cabling causing voltage drop under load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failing or aged battery that cannot hold voltage under load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Corroded or poor DC terminal connections", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the battery state of charge and recharge with shore power or generator", "Inspect DC cable connections at the battery and inverter for tightness and corrosion", "Confirm DC cable gauge is adequate for the cable run length", "Reduce DC loads while the battery recharges" ], "reset_steps": [ "Recharge the battery above the low-voltage threshold", "Connect qualifying shore or generator AC power, or use the front-panel power button to clear the active alarm", "The unit resumes inverting once battery voltage recovers" ], "affected_models": [ "Freedom XC PRO 2000", "Freedom XC PRO 3000" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Batteries store large amounts of energy and can deliver dangerous short-circuit currents. Wear eye protection, remove rings and watches, and never short the DC terminals when checking connections. Lead-acid batteries can vent explosive hydrogen gas.", "call_tech_when": "If the battery is fully charged and properly cabled but E01 keeps appearing, or if the battery will no longer hold a charge, have the battery and DC system inspected by a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Code is documented for the Freedom XC PRO. The exact low-battery threshold depends on the configured Low Battery Cutout (LBCO) setting.", "sources": [ { "title": "Freedom XC PRO Inverter/Charger Owner's Guide", "publisher": "Xantrex", "url": "https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/975-0799-01-01_Rev-DFreedom-XC-PRO-Owners-Guide_ENG.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 13 Error codes; PN 975-0799-01-01 Rev D, Warning Messages" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "xantrex", "brand_name": "Xantrex", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "E02", "code_slug": "e02", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/xantrex/inverter/e02/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "High battery voltage shutdown. The DC input voltage has risen above about 18.0 volts, so the inverter shuts down to protect itself from over-voltage damage. The display alternates E02 with the battery voltage and the status LED turns red.", "causes": [ { "cause": "An external charging source (alternator or solar/PV controller) is overcharging the battery", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Faulty or out-of-regulation alternator or charge controller", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wrong battery system voltage connected to a 12V unit", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check for active charging sources such as a PV charge controller or vehicle alternator and disconnect if needed", "Verify the unit is connected to a 12V battery system", "Have the regulation of any external charging system checked" ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove or correct the over-voltage charging source", "Allow battery voltage to fall back into range; the unit clears the fault once voltage is normal", "Use the front-panel power button to clear an active alarm if needed" ], "affected_models": [ "Freedom XC PRO 2000", "Freedom XC PRO 3000" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Even with built-in over-voltage protection, input above about 18V can still damage the unit. Disconnect charging sources carefully; high DC current connections can arc. Never work on the battery system with bare metal tools.", "call_tech_when": "If no external charging source is present yet E02 persists, or if an alternator/charge controller is overcharging and cannot be corrected, contact a qualified technician.", "caveats": "18.0V threshold and behavior documented for the 12V Freedom XC PRO.", "sources": [ { "title": "Freedom XC PRO Inverter/Charger Owner's Guide", "publisher": "Xantrex", "url": "https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/975-0799-01-01_Rev-DFreedom-XC-PRO-Owners-Guide_ENG.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 13 Error codes; High Voltage Shutdown >18.0V, PN 975-0799-01-01 Rev D" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "xantrex", "brand_name": "Xantrex", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "E03", "code_slug": "e03", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/xantrex/inverter/e03/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "AC output overload shutdown. The connected AC load exceeded the inverter's rated output (around 2100W on the 2000 model, around 3200W on the 3000 model), or there is an output short circuit. The unit shuts down and the status LED turns solid red.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Too many or too large AC appliances running at once", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "High surge load from a motor/compressor at startup", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Short circuit in AC output wiring or a faulty appliance", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Reduce the AC load and turn off non-essential appliances", "Disconnect appliances with high startup surge (compressors, pumps) and try them one at a time", "Check AC output wiring and devices for a possible short circuit", "Confirm total load stays within the unit's wattage rating" ], "reset_steps": [ "Reduce or remove the load causing the overload", "Clear the active alarm with the front-panel power button", "If a supplementary protector (20A reset button) tripped, press it to recover once the overload is removed" ], "affected_models": [ "Freedom XC PRO 2000", "Freedom XC PRO 3000" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "An output short circuit can cause heat and arcing. Disconnect AC loads before inspecting wiring, and treat AC output as live (120V) and potentially lethal. Have AC wiring repaired by a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "If E03 occurs with little or no load connected, or you suspect a short in the inverter's AC output wiring, stop using the unit and call a qualified technician.", "caveats": "Wattage thresholds are model-specific as documented in the owner's guide.", "sources": [ { "title": "Freedom XC PRO Inverter/Charger Owner's Guide", "publisher": "Xantrex", "url": "https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/975-0799-01-01_Rev-DFreedom-XC-PRO-Owners-Guide_ENG.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 13 Error codes; Overload Shutdown ~2100W/~3200W, PN 975-0799-01-01 Rev D" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "xantrex", "brand_name": "Xantrex", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "E04", "code_slug": "e04", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/xantrex/inverter/e04/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Over-temperature shutdown. The inverter's internal temperature reached its protective limit and the unit shut down to prevent damage. The status LED turns solid red. (Code E07 is the earlier over-temperature warning before full shutdown.)", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blocked or obstructed ventilation grille", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "High ambient temperature around the unit", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sustained heavy load near the rated output", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Cooling fan obstruction or failure", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Make sure the ventilation grille and air vents are not blocked", "Move the unit to or improve airflow in a cooler location", "Reduce the AC load if running continuously", "Allow the unit to cool down before restarting" ], "reset_steps": [ "Let the inverter cool", "Clear the cause (improve ventilation, reduce load)", "Use the front-panel power button to clear the alarm once cooled" ], "affected_models": [ "Freedom XC PRO 2000", "Freedom XC PRO 3000" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "The unit and its heatsink can be hot. Allow it to cool before touching. Do not run the inverter in an enclosed unventilated space, and never block vents with stored items.", "call_tech_when": "If E04 recurs with good ventilation and a modest load, the cooling fan may have failed; contact a qualified technician.", "caveats": "E07 precedes E04 as a warning; E08 is a fan-lock error in grid (bypass) mode per the same table.", "sources": [ { "title": "Freedom XC PRO Inverter/Charger Owner's Guide", "publisher": "Xantrex", "url": "https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/975-0799-01-01_Rev-DFreedom-XC-PRO-Owners-Guide_ENG.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 13 Error codes; Over-temperature shutdown (E04) and over-temperature/fan alarm (E07), PN 975-0799-01-01 Rev D" } ], "confidence": 0.95, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "xantrex", "brand_name": "Xantrex", "appliance": "inverter", "appliance_name": "Inverter / Charger", "code": "E10–E19", "code_slug": "e10-e19", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/xantrex/inverter/e10-e19/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Internal hardware error. The inverter/charger detected an internal fault in either battery or grid mode that prevents normal operation. These are not user-serviceable conditions.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Internal component or control board fault", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Transient electrical event that may clear on power cycle", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note the exact code number displayed", "Disconnect the unit from both DC and AC power, wait, then reconnect and restart once", "Do not attempt internal repairs; the unit has no user-serviceable parts" ], "reset_steps": [ "Power-cycle the unit by disconnecting DC and AC, then reconnecting", "If the error returns, the fault is internal and requires service" ], "affected_models": [ "Freedom XC PRO 2000", "Freedom XC PRO 3000" ], "related_codes": [], "safety_note": "Do not open the inverter/charger. It contains no user-serviceable parts and can deliver an electric shock or burn. Disconnect all DC and AC power before handling.", "call_tech_when": "If any E10-E19 code persists after a single power cycle, contact Xantrex customer service or a qualified technician.", "caveats": "The manual groups these as a range; individual sub-codes are not separately defined for the user.", "sources": [ { "title": "Freedom XC PRO Inverter/Charger Owner's Guide", "publisher": "Xantrex", "url": "https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/975-0799-01-01_Rev-DFreedom-XC-PRO-Owners-Guide_ENG.pdf", "manualRef": "Table 13 Error codes; Internal hardware error E10-E19, PN 975-0799-01-01 Rev D" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-06-29", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator light 1 flashing", "code_slug": "light-1-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/light-1-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Refrigerator sensor fault. The control board is not getting a usable reading from the fresh-food compartment temperature sensor, so it cannot regulate cooling and flags the sensor instead. The fridge may keep running, run continuously, or stop cooling the fresh-food side while the freezer still works.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Sensor plug worked loose at CN2 on the main circuit board — the most common finding, because it is a small connector on a unit that vibrates down the road", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Refrigerator temperature sensor in the wind channel has failed open or shorted", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sensor harness pinched, chafed or corroded between the channel and the board", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Main control board fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Count the flashing lights again before you start. One light flashing on its own is the fault-display reading for the refrigerator sensor; lights 1 and 2 flashing together is the service-manual reading for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel. Both point at the same part, so either way the sensor circuit is the place to look.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse in the power center, then check the sensor plug at CN2 on the main circuit board — seat it firmly and look for green corrosion or spread pins.", "Follow the sensor lead into the wind channel assembly and check it is intact and not trapped by a shelf, liner or insulation.", "Note whether the freezer still gets cold. A working freezer with a warm fresh-food compartment fits this fault; nothing cold anywhere is a different problem." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fix the connection first — a power cycle does not clear a genuine sensor fault, it just restarts the same detection.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse for a few minutes, reinstall it, and watch the panel from the moment it powers up.", "If the light starts flashing again within a few minutes, the sensor or its wiring is still faulty." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing", "lights-1-and-3-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The plug at CN2 is sound and the sensor is undamaged but light 1 keeps flashing — the sensor or the control board needs replacing, and both are Lippert service parts.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator light 2 flashing", "code_slug": "light-2-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/light-2-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Ambient temperature sensor fault. The board has lost a plausible reading of the air temperature around the unit. That sensor is what lets the fridge adapt its run strategy to a hot or cold environment, so a fault here typically shows up as odd cycling — running far too long, or not enough — rather than as a dead fridge.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Ambient sensor connector unseated at the main board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Ambient temperature sensor failed open or shorted", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Damaged or pinched sensor lead", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Control board fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check whether light 2 is flashing alone or paired. Alone it is the ambient sensor; with light 3 the service manual reads it as the defrost sensor, and with light 1 as the refrigerator sensor. The pairing decides which sensor you go looking for.", "Make sure lights 2 and 3 are actually flashing and not simply on. Steady lights 2 and 3 mean the panel's Power Off function is active — the fridge has been switched off at the panel and is not faulty at all.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse and reseat the thermistor connectors on the main circuit board.", "Look for a lead that has been trapped or chafed where the harness leaves the board area." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reseat the connector, then pull the refrigerator fuse for a few minutes and reinstall it.", "Watch the panel as it powers up; a sensor fault reappears quickly once the board re-reads the circuit." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing", "lights-1-and-3-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The connectors are sound but light 2 keeps flashing, or the fridge cycles abnormally even with no light showing — the sensor or board should be tested by Lippert service.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator light 3 flashing", "code_slug": "light-3-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/light-3-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Freezer defrost sensor fault. The board cannot read the defrost temperature sensor on the freezer evaporator, so it cannot run or end a defrost cycle properly. Left alone this usually turns into a second, more visible symptom: the freezer ices up and the fresh-food compartment stops getting cold air.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Freezer temperature sensor plug disconnected — the service manual calls this out specifically, with a photo of the plug", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Defrost sensor failed open or shorted", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Sensor lead damaged or trapped behind the evaporator panel", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Control board fault", "likelihood": "rare" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Locate the freezer temperature sensor plug and confirm it is fully seated. The service manual documents this connector for the paired reading of lights 2 and 3, and it is the first thing to check whether light 3 flashes alone or in a pair.", "Look for frost build-up on the freezer evaporator. Heavy icing alongside this fault confirms the defrost cycle is not completing.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse before unplugging or reseating anything, and check the lead for pinch damage where it passes the panel edge.", "If the freezer is already iced up, defrost the unit fully with the doors open before judging whether the repair worked — otherwise the ice masks the result." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect or replace the sensor first; the fault will not clear while the board still reads an open circuit.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse for a few minutes, reinstall it and watch the panel.", "Allow a full defrost and a normal cooling cycle before deciding the problem is gone." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing", "lights-1-and-3-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The sensor is plugged in and undamaged but light 3 keeps flashing, or the freezer ices up repeatedly after a correct repair.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator light 4 flashing", "code_slug": "light-4-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/light-4-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Undervoltage alarm. The supply has dropped below what the unit will run on, and the compressor's undervoltage protection has intervened. Lippert names the threshold plainly: if battery power ever falls below 9 V it can trigger the compressor undervoltage protection. The measurement that matters is taken at the fridge, not at the battery — this unit is rated at 15 A on 12 V DC, so a marginal cable drops real voltage exactly when the compressor starts.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Battery genuinely discharged, or sagging below 9 V under the compressor start load", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Voltage drop across the supply run — undersized wire, a long run, or corroded terminals — so the fridge sees far less than the battery does", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded connection at the terminal block, or a tired fuse holder in the power center", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Heavy simultaneous loads (inverter, slide-out, jacks) pulling the rail down while the fridge tries to start", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure at the terminal block on the fridge, and measure twice — once with the refrigerator off and once with it running. The service manual is explicit about this: checking under no load and under load rules out a false surface charge on the battery. It expects roughly 12.5 to 13.6 V at the top of the terminal block.", "Then measure at the bottom of the terminal block as well. The same voltage should appear there; if it does not, the fault is inside the block or its wiring rather than upstream.", "Check the fuse in the power center — it is labelled for the refrigerator and should be 15 A. The supply is specified as 10 AWG wire, so anything thinner or spliced is a candidate for the drop.", "If the battery has been recharged or replaced and reads above 11 V, wait five minutes before judging the result. Lippert documents that recovery delay explicitly; owners routinely condemn a working fridge inside those five minutes.", "Check both ends of the negative return too. In this unit the negative and the chassis ground are not tied together, so a poor dedicated negative will not be rescued by the chassis." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore a solid supply first — charge or replace the battery, or fix the cable and connections.", "With the supply above 11 V, wait five minutes and watch whether the unit returns to normal on its own.", "If it does not, pull the refrigerator fuse from the power center, leave it out for 10 minutes, reinstall it and check the panel again." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-5-flashing", "lights-1-and-3-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The fridge measures 12.5 to 13.6 V at the terminal block both loaded and unloaded, the fuse and wiring are correct, and the undervoltage indication still returns — the control board is misreading the supply.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.92, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator light 5 flashing", "code_slug": "light-5-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/light-5-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Overvoltage. The supply has gone above the range the electronics accept and the unit has protected itself. On a 12 V RV system this is almost always something charging rather than something failing: a converter or DC-DC charger in a high-output stage, an alternator, or a boost/equalise charge applied with the fridge still connected.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Converter, DC-DC charger or solar controller in a boost/equalise stage lifting the rail above the accepted range", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "A quick/boost charger connected to the battery with the fridge still wired in", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Alternator or external charger with a wrong or failed regulation setting", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Wrong battery chemistry profile selected on the charger (for example a lithium profile on a lead-acid bank)", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure at the terminal block while the suspected source is running — the reading only matters at the moment of charging, so measure with the engine running, shore power connected or the sun on the panels.", "Note when it happens. Only while driving points at the alternator or DC-DC charger; only on shore power points at the converter; only in bright sun points at the solar controller.", "Check the charge profile selected on the converter or charger against the battery actually fitted, especially after a lithium conversion.", "Disconnect the fridge before using a quick or boost charger on the battery, and let the rail settle before reconnecting." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove or correct the over-voltage source before anything else.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse from the power center, leave it out for 10 minutes, then reinstall it and check the panel.", "If the indication returns as soon as charging starts again, the charging source is still out of range — the fridge is reporting correctly." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "lights-1-and-3-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The measured supply stays inside a normal charging range at the fridge but the overvoltage indication keeps returning, or a charging source cannot be brought back into range.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator lights 1 and 3 flashing", "code_slug": "lights-1-and-3-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/lights-1-and-3-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Fan failure. The board is not seeing the evaporator/condenser fan run as expected. A 12 V compressor fridge depends on that airflow: without it the freezer may still make cold, but the cold never reaches the fresh-food compartment, and the compressor runs longer and hotter than it should.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Fan connector unplugged or not seated, so the board sees no fan at all", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Fan blade blocked by ice, packaging or debris so the motor stalls", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Failed fan motor", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Broken or chafed fan wiring between the board and the fan assembly", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the red and black fan wires for 12 V with the fridge powered. The service manual gives exactly this test for the paired reading of lights 3 and 4, and it is the quickest way to split a dead fan from a dead feed: voltage present but no rotation means the fan; no voltage means the board or the harness.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse and turn the fan by hand — it should spin freely. Ice around the freezer fan is a common cause and is easy to miss because it melts before the fridge is opened for inspection.", "Check the fan assembly connector at the board (the fan and door switch share the CN1 area of the main board) and look for a lead trapped behind the panel.", "Listen at the start of a cooling cycle. A fan that spins up and then stops, or one that whines and stalls, is failing mechanically even if it turns by hand." ], "reset_steps": [ "Clear any ice or obstruction and reconnect the fan before resetting anything.", "Pull the refrigerator fuse for a few minutes, reinstall it and confirm the fan starts with the cooling cycle.", "If the freezer had iced up, defrost it fully before judging whether the fault is gone." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "12 V is present at the fan wires but the fan does not run, or the fault returns after a new fan assembly — the board or the fan circuit needs testing.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.88, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "All indicator lights flashing", "code_slug": "all-lights-flashing", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/all-lights-flashing/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "An under- or over-voltage event has occurred. Unlike the individual light 4 and light 5 indications, this is the service manual's catch-all for the panel showing every light flashing at once: the board recorded a supply excursion and latched the warning. It also has a documented clearing procedure, which the sensor faults do not.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Supply dropped under load — battery low, or voltage drop in an undersized or corroded 12 V run", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Charging source pushed the rail too high (converter or DC-DC boost stage, alternator, boost charger)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Momentary excursion during a big switching event — generator start, shore power connect, inverter transfer", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose connection producing a brief interruption the board records as an excursion", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Do the documented reset before diagnosing further — a latched warning from a one-off event will simply clear, and that tells you it was an event rather than a defect.", "If it comes straight back, measure at the terminal block with the fridge off and running, expecting roughly 12.5 to 13.6 V, and measure again while any charging source is active.", "Think about the moment it appeared. Right after starting a generator, connecting shore power or a boost charge points at over-voltage; after a long boondocking evening points at under-voltage.", "Check the 15 A refrigerator fuse and its holder for heat marks — a hot holder both causes drop and records excursions." ], "reset_steps": [ "Remove the refrigerator fuse from the power center.", "Leave it out for a full 10 minutes — this wait is specified, and a quick pull-and-push does not clear the latch.", "Reinstall the fuse and check whether the lights are still flashing.", "If they are, treat it as a live supply fault and measure, rather than resetting again." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing" ], "safety_note": "This fridge runs on 12 V DC and is rated at 15 A, fed through a 15 A fuse on 10 AWG wire. Pull the refrigerator fuse before working on wiring or connectors. Note that in this unit the negative and the chassis ground are deliberately not tied together — do not \"fix\" that by bonding them. The sealed system is charged with R600a (isobutane), which is flammable: never puncture the refrigerant circuit, and keep sparks and open flame away from the compressor compartment.", "call_tech_when": "The panel still shows all lights flashing after the 10-minute fuse reset with a measured-good supply at the terminal block.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.9, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "everchill", "brand_name": "Everchill", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Indicator lights 2 and 3 on (not flashing)", "code_slug": "lights-2-and-3-on", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/everchill/refrigerator/lights-2-and-3-on/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "Not a fault. Lights 2 and 3 lit steadily mean the panel's Power Off function is active — someone has switched the cooling off at the control panel. The fridge has power, the panel is lit, the light comes on when the door opens, and nothing is cooling, which is exactly what a failed fridge looks like from the outside. Pressing the corresponding key to leave the Power Off function restores normal operation.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Power Off function switched on at the temperature control panel, deliberately or by accident", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Panel key pressed while cleaning or while loading the fridge", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Left in Power Off after winterising or storage and not switched back on", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check whether the lights are steady or flashing. Steady is the Power Off state; flashing is a fault. This one distinction separates a two-second fix from a service call, and the panel gives no other clue.", "Press the corresponding key on the temperature control panel to exit the Power Off function, then confirm the compressor starts within a minute or two.", "If the lights are actually flashing rather than lit, read the fault indications instead — flashing lights 2 and 3 are read by the service manual as a defrost sensor fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Press the key on the control panel that exits the Power Off function.", "Confirm cooling starts and the panel returns to its normal display." ], "affected_models": [ "SRD-360W TG-E", "SRD-360WTG-E (LHH-2022302076)", "SRD-360WTG-E (RHH-2022302077)", "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V, black glass doors" ], "related_codes": [ "light-1-flashing", "light-2-flashing", "light-3-flashing", "light-4-flashing", "light-5-flashing" ], "safety_note": "No electrical work is needed for this one. If the fridge does not start after leaving the Power Off function, stop and check the supply before opening anything — the unit runs on 12 V DC at up to 15 A and its sealed system is charged with flammable R600a.", "call_tech_when": "The Power Off function has been exited, the panel shows normal operation, and the compressor still does not run after several minutes.", "caveats": "Lippert's own service manual describes the panel two different ways, and they do not line up. The \"Fault Display\" table on page 8 assigns meanings to single lights — light 1 refrigerator sensor, 2 ambient sensor, 3 defrost sensor, 4 undervoltage, 5 overvoltage, and lights 1 and 3 together for a fan failure. The service section on pages 19-22 instead reads pairs: lights 1 and 2 for the refrigerator temp sensor in the wind channel, 2 and 3 for the defrost sensor, 3 and 4 for the freezer fan, and all lights for an under/over voltage event. Both readings are reproduced on this site because both are in the manufacturer's document; which one your panel follows appears to depend on the board and firmware revision. Count carefully how many lights are flashing before ordering a part — the pair readings come with concrete component checks, so they are the more useful place to start when two lights are flashing.", "sources": [ { "title": "Everchill 10.7 cu. ft. 12V Refrigerator (Black Glass Doors) — Troubleshooting and Service Manual", "publisher": "Lippert Components", "url": "https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0008004", "manualRef": "CCD-0008004 Rev 03.25.25 — \"Fault Display\" table (p. 8), Troubleshooting table (p. 7), \"Flashing lights on the temp control panel\" (pp. 19-22), Specifications (p. 8)" } ], "confidence": 0.85, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-07-27", "de": null }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 1", "code_slug": "error-code-1", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-1/", "severity": "danger", "meaning": "Flame detected when the gas should be off. The board senses a flame although it has closed the gas valve, so it reports an unsafe state rather than a cooling fault. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Known fault in early boards that Thetford addresses with a dedicated modification kit", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Gas valve not closing properly", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Flame-sensing circuit misreading", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Switch the fridge off and on again, then disconnect the 12 V supply briefly and reconnect it — Thetford has both steps as the first branch of its own flow.", "Note the build date and serial number before ordering anything: the fix differs before and after 22-06-2015 (serial E173S…).", "Have the gas valve checked for correct closing if the code survives the reset." ], "reset_steps": [ "Turn the refrigerator off and on.", "If it persists, disconnect the 12 V DC supply, wait a moment, and reconnect it." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5", "error-code-6" ], "safety_note": "This fridge burns LP gas and also runs on 230 V mains. Never work on the gas circuit, the burner or the flue with the gas supply open, and leave 230 V components to a qualified person. If you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not operate any switch.", "call_tech_when": "The code returns after both resets. Thetford treats this as a hardware fix — an error-code-1 modification kit (690449 for the Tab connector, 690799 for Mate-N-lok), and depending on build date either an LED/LCD service kit (691138 / 691139) or a new power board (692247).", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-1/", "meaning": "Flamme erkannt, obwohl das Gas aus sein sollte. Die Elektronik sieht eine Flamme, obwohl sie das Gasventil geschlossen hat, und meldet damit keinen Kühlfehler, sondern einen unsicheren Zustand. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 2", "code_slug": "error-code-2", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-2/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The burner control module returns incorrect feedback. The ignition electronics and the main board disagree about what the burner is doing, so the board stops trusting the gas side. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Burner control module failure", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Wiring or connector fault between burner module and power board", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Note the production date and serial number first — Thetford branches the whole repair on 22-06-2015 (serial E173S…) and the wrong part will not fit.", "Check the wiring loom and connectors between the burner control module and the power board for damage or loose pins before condemning a board." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the fridge off and on; a genuine module fault will come straight back." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5", "error-code-6" ], "safety_note": "This fridge burns LP gas and also runs on 230 V mains. Never work on the gas circuit, the burner or the flue with the gas supply open, and leave 230 V components to a qualified person. If you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not operate any switch.", "call_tech_when": "Effectively always — Thetford offers no user-level remedy here. Before 22-06-2015 an LED or LCD service kit (691138 / 691139), after that a power board assembly (692247).", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-2/", "meaning": "Das Brennersteuermodul meldet eine falsche Rückmeldung. Zündelektronik und Hauptplatine sind sich uneinig darüber, was der Brenner gerade tut, und die Elektronik traut der Gasseite nicht mehr. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 3", "code_slug": "error-code-3", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-3/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "Gas lockout: the burner failed to light within 30 seconds, so the board shut the gas off. This is the most common gas-side code and usually has a mundane cause — no gas, no spark, or an electrode out of adjustment. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Gas bottle empty or a valve in the line still closed", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "No spark at the electrode", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Electrode gap wrong or electrode dirty/damaged", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Gas pressure outside the 30-35 mbar window", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Burner jet blocked", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Start with the boring one: is there gas at the fridge? Bottle not empty, all valves in the line actually open.", "Switch off and on again and listen and look for a spark at the electrode during the ignition attempt.", "Check the electrode gap — Thetford specifies about 4 mm above the burner — and inspect the electrode and its connections for soot, corrosion or damage.", "Have the gas pressure checked against Thetford's 30-35 mbar window if the spark and the gas supply are both fine." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore the gas supply, then switch the fridge off and on to release the lockout and start a fresh ignition sequence.", "Do not keep re-triggering ignition attempts repeatedly on a fridge that will not light — find the cause first." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-4", "error-code-5", "error-code-6" ], "safety_note": "This fridge burns LP gas and also runs on 230 V mains. Never work on the gas circuit, the burner or the flue with the gas supply open, and leave 230 V components to a qualified person. If you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not operate any switch.", "call_tech_when": "There is a spark and gas is present, but the burner still will not light or the lockout returns — and always for anything involving the gas valve, the jet or the pressure regulator.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-3/", "meaning": "Gas-Verriegelung: Der Brenner hat innerhalb von 30 Sekunden nicht gezündet, und die Elektronik hat das Gas abgesperrt. Das ist der häufigste gasseitige Code und hat meist eine banale Ursache — kein Gas, kein Zündfunke oder eine verstellte Elektrode. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 4", "code_slug": "error-code-4", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-4/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 12 V heating element is off when it should be on. The board is calling for DC heating but does not see the current it expects, so cooling on 12 V does not happen. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blown 20 A DC fuse on the power board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Loose or corroded connection at the heating element", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "DC heating element failed (open or out of tolerance)", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Supply cable too thin or too long for the current", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the 20 A DC fuse on the power board first — it is the cheapest and most common finding.", "Inspect the connections at the element and restore anything loose or corroded.", "With the fridge switched off, measure the element resistance and compare against Thetford's table: roughly 0.90-1.16 ohm for N3080 to N3115, and 0.67-0.86 ohm for the larger N3145 and N3150.", "If it draws current at all, expect roughly 15 A on large fridges and 11 A on small ones — a long way below that points at the element." ], "reset_steps": [ "Replace the fuse or fix the connection, then switch the fridge off and on.", "Select 12 V operation deliberately and confirm the code stays away under load." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-5", "error-code-6" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "Fuse and connections are good and the element measures outside Thetford's resistance window — the heating element needs replacing.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-4/", "meaning": "Das 12-V-Heizelement ist aus, obwohl es an sein sollte. Die Elektronik fordert DC-Heizung an, sieht aber nicht den erwarteten Strom — auf 12 V wird also nicht gekühlt. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 5", "code_slug": "error-code-5", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-5/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 12 V heating element is on when it should be off. The board sees DC heating current it did not ask for — the opposite failure to code 4, and a board-side one. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Power board switching fault", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Transient that a reset clears", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Switch the fridge off and on — Thetford's own flow starts here, and a one-off event clears.", "If the code returns, note the production date and serial number: the repair differs before and after 22-06-2015 (serial E173S…)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the refrigerator off and on again and check whether code 5 has gone." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-6" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "The code survives the reset. Thetford then prescribes an LED or LCD service kit (691138 / 691139) for units built before 22-06-2015, or a power board assembly (692247) after it.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-5/", "meaning": "Das 12-V-Heizelement ist an, obwohl es aus sein sollte. Die Elektronik sieht DC-Heizstrom, den sie nicht angefordert hat — der umgekehrte Fehler zu Code 4, und einer auf Platinenseite. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 6", "code_slug": "error-code-6", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-6/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 12 V supply is outside the permitted window. This is a supply fault, not a fridge fault: the board measures the voltage arriving at the fridge and refuses to run outside its range. Thetford also warns that if you selected 12 V manually, the fridge will not switch to another energy source by itself when the engine is off. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Voltage drop in the 12 V supply run — cable too thin or too long, or a poor connection", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "The 20 A 12 V fuse on the power board, or its holder, blown or gone high-resistance — it can look intact", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Battery flat, or supply sagging under the heater load", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Solar charge regulator pushing the rail out of range", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the 12 V supply at the fridge while it is trying to heat, not at the battery and not at rest — the heating element is the biggest load in the vehicle after the starter.", "Check the 20 A 12 V fuse on the power board — and if the supply measures fine at the fridge's terminals but code 6 stays, measure again across the fuse and its holder while the fridge is heating. A holder that has overheated can go high-resistance without the fuse visibly blowing, so the board sees a low voltage that your meter at the terminals never shows. One owner of an N3142 traced a persistent code 6 to exactly that (field report in the sources).", "If the vehicle has solar, disconnect the panel and see whether code 6 disappears. Thetford has this as an explicit branch, and a regulator that spikes is a genuine cause.", "Remember the manual-mode trap: with 12 V selected by hand and the engine off, the fridge will not fall back to gas or mains on its own." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore a supply inside the permitted range, then switch the fridge off and on." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person. If the fuse holder on the power board is damaged, replace it with a fused part of the same rating; a permanent wire bridge removes the only overcurrent protection of the 12 V heater circuit.", "call_tech_when": "The supply measures inside range at the fridge under load, the fuse is good and solar is ruled out, yet code 6 persists — the power board is misreading.", "caveats": "Thetford states two different lower limits for this code. The English troubleshooting deck says \"lower than 10 V or higher than 15 V\"; the German edition of the same N3000 document says \"niedriger 11,5 V oder höher 15 V\". So between 10 V and 11.5 V the two manuals disagree about whether you have a fault. Treat anything under about 11.5 V at the fridge as suspect regardless of which manual you hold. The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" }, { "title": "Geplante Obsoleszenz? Thetford Absorberkühlschrank Baureihe N3xxx (field report, N3142, code 6)", "publisher": "Michael Springmann, springmann-web.de", "url": "https://www.springmann-web.de/geplante-obsolenz-thetford-absorberkuehlschrank-baureihe-n3xxx/", "manualRef": "Code 6 with correct voltage at the connector; cause found under the control-unit cover: 20 A blade fuse gone high-resistance in a two-pin fuse holder" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-09-23", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-6/", "meaning": "Die 12-V-Versorgung liegt außerhalb des zulässigen Bereichs. Das ist ein Versorgungs- und kein Kühlschrankfehler: Die Elektronik misst die am Kühlschrank ankommende Spannung und verweigert außerhalb ihres Bereichs den Betrieb. Thetford weist zusätzlich darauf hin, dass sich der Kühlschrank bei manuell gewähltem 12-V-Betrieb und abgestelltem Motor nicht selbsttätig auf eine andere Energiequelle umschaltet. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 7", "code_slug": "error-code-7", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-7/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "No \"engine run\" signal (D+) while the control is in manual 12 V mode. The fridge is set to run on the vehicle battery but cannot see that the engine is running, so it will not draw the heavy DC current. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Engine simply not running while 12 V mode is selected by hand", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "D+ wire not connected, or connected with reversed polarity", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "D+ voltage unstable or outside the 10-15 V window", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Confirm the obvious first: is the engine actually running, and is 12 V mode selected manually rather than AUTO?", "Use Thetford's own polarity test — select DC mode manually with the engine off. If no error code appears in that state, the D+ input is wired the wrong way round.", "Measure the D+ voltage at the fridge; Thetford expects a stable 10-15 V.", "Check that the supply can actually deliver the required current, not just the voltage." ], "reset_steps": [ "Start the engine, or switch the control back to AUTO so the fridge can pick an available energy source itself." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "D+ measures correct and stable at the fridge but code 7 stays. Thetford then points at the service kit or power board depending on build date.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-7/", "meaning": "Kein „engine run\"-Signal (D+) bei manuell gewähltem 12-V-Betrieb. Der Kühlschrank soll aus der Fahrzeugbatterie laufen, erkennt aber nicht, dass der Motor läuft — und zieht den hohen DC-Strom deshalb nicht. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 8", "code_slug": "error-code-8", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-8/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 230 V heating element is drawing at least 75 % less current than it should. On mains the fridge is effectively not heating, so it will not cool. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Blown AC fuse on the power board", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "230 V heating element failed or out of tolerance", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Mains voltage outside the 190-260 V window", "likelihood": "less-common" }, { "cause": "Poor connection in the 230 V wiring to the element", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the AC fuse — and check which one belongs in your unit: Thetford specifies 4 A for fridges built before 03-03-2014 (serial below E062R1000006) and 2 A after that.", "Confirm the mains voltage arriving at the fridge is between 190 and 260 V.", "With the fridge switched off, measure the element resistance against Thetford's table: about 302-389 ohm for N3080 to N3115, and 210-270 ohm for the larger N3145 and N3150.", "Under power the element should draw roughly 1 A on large fridges and 0.7 A on small ones." ], "reset_steps": [ "Fit the correct fuse or replace the element, then switch the fridge off and on and select mains operation." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "Anything involving the 230 V element beyond checking the fuse. Mains work is not a DIY job, and Thetford's own measurement instruction assumes the appliance is isolated first.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-8/", "meaning": "Das 230-V-Heizelement zieht mindestens 75 % weniger Strom als vorgesehen. Am Netz heizt der Kühlschrank damit praktisch nicht — und kühlt folglich nicht. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 9", "code_slug": "error-code-9", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-9/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 230 V heating element is on when it should be off. The board detects mains heating it did not ask for — the mains-side twin of code 5. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Power board switching fault", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Transient that a reset clears", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Switch the refrigerator off and on and see whether code 9 has gone — this is where Thetford's flow starts.", "If it returns, note the build date and serial number, because the prescribed part depends on 22-06-2015 (serial E173S…)." ], "reset_steps": [ "Switch the refrigerator off and on again (reset) and check whether the code is gone." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "The code survives the reset — an LED or LCD service kit (691138 / 691139) before 22-06-2015, or a power board assembly (692247) after it.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-9/", "meaning": "Das 230-V-Heizelement ist an, obwohl es aus sein sollte. Die Elektronik erkennt Netzheizung, die sie nicht angefordert hat — das netzseitige Gegenstück zu Code 5. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 10", "code_slug": "error-code-10", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-10/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The 230 V mains supply is out of range. Like code 6 on the DC side, this reports the quality of what arrives at the fridge rather than a fault inside it — and the acceptable window depends on when the fridge was built. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Weak or unstable campsite mains, or a long extension lead dropping voltage", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Generator or inverter output outside the accepted window", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Loose connection in the 230 V feed", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Measure the mains voltage at the fridge, not at the pitch bollard — a long or thin extension lead is the usual culprit on a campsite.", "Check which window applies to your unit: fridges built after 08-02-2016 (serial above E039T…) accept 190-260 V, earlier ones only 200-260 V. The same shore supply can therefore be fine for one fridge and a fault for another.", "If you are on a generator or inverter, check its output under load rather than idle." ], "reset_steps": [ "Restore a mains supply inside the window, then switch the fridge off and on." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "The supply measures inside the window at the fridge and code 10 still appears — Thetford then specifies a power board assembly (692247).", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-10/", "meaning": "Die 230-V-Netzversorgung liegt außerhalb des Bereichs. Wie Code 6 auf der DC-Seite meldet das die Qualität dessen, was am Kühlschrank ankommt, und keinen Defekt im Gerät — und das zulässige Fenster hängt vom Baujahr ab. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 11", "code_slug": "error-code-11", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-11/", "severity": "info", "meaning": "No energy source is available while the control is in AUTO mode. The fridge looked for gas, 12 V and mains, found none of them usable, and is telling you so. Often this is not a defect at all but a caravan that is unplugged, with the gas closed and the engine off. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Genuinely no source available — mains unplugged, gas closed, engine off", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "One source unavailable and the others faulty, each with its own hidden code", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Power board fault", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the simple things first: is the mains lead plugged in, is the gas bottle open, is the engine running if 12 V is meant to be the source?", "Then use Thetford's own diagnostic: select each source manually one at a time and see which error code appears. Code 11 hides the specific fault behind it, and selecting sources by hand brings it out.", "Follow whichever code that reveals rather than treating 11 itself as the fault." ], "reset_steps": [ "Make at least one energy source genuinely available, then switch back to AUTO." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "This fridge burns LP gas and also runs on 230 V mains. Never work on the gas circuit, the burner or the flue with the gas supply open, and leave 230 V components to a qualified person. If you smell gas, close the cylinder valve, ventilate, and do not operate any switch.", "call_tech_when": "Every source is genuinely available and each one works when selected by hand, yet AUTO still reports code 11.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-11/", "meaning": "Im AUTO-Betrieb ist keine Energiequelle verfügbar. Der Kühlschrank hat Gas, 12 V und Netz geprüft, keine davon nutzbar gefunden und meldet genau das. Oft ist das gar kein Defekt, sondern ein Wohnwagen ohne Landstrom, mit geschlossener Gasflasche und abgestelltem Motor. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 12", "code_slug": "error-code-12", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-12/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The display board and the power board have lost communication with each other. The two halves of the control system can no longer talk, so the panel cannot command the fridge — and note that this needs a stable 12 V low-current supply to work at all. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "12 V low-current supply outside the 10-15 V window", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Resettable fuse tripped and still warm", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Bent, missing or loose pins in the wiring-loom plug", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Connector on display board or power board not seated", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Broken communication cable between the two boards", "likelihood": "less-common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the 12 V low-current supply at the fridge is stable between 10 and 15 V — everything else is pointless if it is not.", "Do Thetford's cool-down step properly: disconnect 12 V and wait a full five minutes so the resettable fuse can cool, then reconnect. A quick off-on does not do this.", "Inspect the wiring-loom plug for pins that are missing, bent or pushed back, and reseat the connectors at both the display board and the power board.", "Check continuity of the four-wire communication cable between the boards if the connectors are sound." ], "reset_steps": [ "Disconnect the 12 V supply and leave it disconnected for five minutes.", "Reconnect and see whether code 12 returns; if it does, move on to the connectors rather than repeating the reset." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "Supply, connectors and cable all check out but the boards still will not talk — that is a board-level fault.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-12/", "meaning": "Bedienteil und Steuergerät haben die Verbindung zueinander verloren. Die beiden Hälften der Steuerung können nicht mehr miteinander reden, das Bedienteil kann den Kühlschrank also nicht mehr ansteuern — und das Ganze setzt eine stabile 12-V-Kleinstromversorgung überhaupt erst voraus. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } }, { "brand": "thetford", "brand_name": "Thetford", "appliance": "refrigerator", "appliance_name": "Refrigerator", "code": "Error code 13", "code_slug": "error-code-13", "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-13/", "severity": "warning", "meaning": "The thermistor has failed and the control has switched itself to the Backup Operation System. The fridge keeps cooling, but blind: without a working temperature sensor it can no longer regulate to the setting you chose. How you read this code depends on the control panel. An LCD panel shows a spanner symbol with the number next to it. An LED+ panel shows nothing until you ask for it: while the display is blinking, hold all three buttons at once until it stops, and the cooling-level bars that then light up are a binary number — the five bars are worth 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 from left to right, added together. And note Thetford's own warning: with no 12 V DC at the control board, no error code is shown at all.", "causes": [ { "cause": "Thermistor unplugged or not seated in its connector", "likelihood": "most-likely" }, { "cause": "Thermistor missing entirely after a service", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Wiring loom not connected properly to the power board", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Broken sensor cable, or bent/loose pins in the plug", "likelihood": "common" }, { "cause": "Thermistor itself failed", "likelihood": "common" } ], "diy_checks": [ "Check the thermistor is actually there — Thetford's flow starts by asking whether it is present at all, which tells you how often it goes missing after a repair.", "Confirm it is plugged in correctly and that the wiring loom is properly connected to the power board.", "Inspect the plug for pins that are bent, loose or pushed back, and straighten what can be straightened.", "Measure continuity of the sensor cable before replacing the sensor — a broken cable looks exactly like a dead thermistor." ], "reset_steps": [ "Reconnect or replace the thermistor first, then switch the fridge off and on.", "Give it a full cooling cycle before judging: with Backup Operation the fridge runs to a fixed pattern, so temperatures behave differently until the sensor is back." ], "affected_models": [ "N3080", "N3090", "N3097", "N3100", "N3104", "N3108", "N3112", "N3115", "N3145", "N3150", "N3170", "N3175", "N4080", "N4090", "N4097", "N4100", "N4104", "N4108", "N4112", "N4141", "N4142", "N4145", "N4150", "N4170", "N4175" ], "related_codes": [ "error-code-1", "error-code-2", "error-code-3", "error-code-4", "error-code-5" ], "safety_note": "Switch the fridge off and disconnect the supply before measuring a heater element — Thetford states this explicitly. The unit also runs on 230 V mains; leave those parts to a qualified person.", "call_tech_when": "Sensor, cable and connectors are all sound and code 13 remains — Thetford then points at the service kit or power board depending on build date.", "caveats": "The number alone is not enough — Thetford uses different numbering per product family. This table is the N3000 and N4000 absorption series (codes 1-13). The older Premium LCD line (N90-N180, built 2005-2012) has its own, different 1-14 table in which the same numbers mean other things, and the T2000 compressor fridges use a third scheme again. Model numbers are no help either: N90, N97, N100, N104, N109, N112 and N145 appear in both the Deluxe line and the Premium LCD line, so a bare model number cannot decide which table applies. Check which family your fridge belongs to before acting on a number.", "sources": [ { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N3000 series", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Error-code table 1-13, \"Service mode LED\" and \"Service mode LCD\" pages, per-code diagnostic flows" }, { "title": "Troubleshooting — Absorption Refrigerator N4000", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/08/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N4000_EN.pdf", "manualRef": "Version 05-2019 — identical error-code table 1-13" }, { "title": "Fehlerbehebung — Absorber-Kühlschrank N3000 (deutsche Ausgabe)", "publisher": "Thetford", "url": "https://www.thetford.com/app/uploads/2024/09/TS_absorption-refrigerator_N3000_DE.pdf", "manualRef": "Fehlercode-Tabelle 1-13, \"Service Modus LED\" mit Binärgewichten 16/8/4/2/1" } ], "confidence": 0.93, "verified": true, "last_verified": "2026-08-04", "de": { "url": "https://rvcodefix.com/de/thetford/refrigerator/error-code-13/", "meaning": "Der Thermostat (Thermistor) ist defekt, und die Steuerung hat auf das Notlaufprogramm umgeschaltet. Der Kühlschrank kühlt weiter, aber blind: Ohne funktionierenden Temperaturfühler kann er nicht mehr auf die gewählte Stufe regeln. Wie Sie diesen Code ablesen, hängt vom Bedienteil ab. Ein LCD-Display zeigt einen Schraubenschlüssel und daneben die Zahl. Ein LED+-Bedienteil zeigt zunächst gar nichts: Halten Sie, während das Display blinkt, alle drei Tasten gleichzeitig gedrückt, bis es aufhört — die dann leuchtenden Temperaturstufenbalken sind eine Binärzahl. Die fünf Balken stehen von links nach rechts für 16, 8, 4, 2 und 1 und werden addiert. Beachten Sie außerdem Thetfords eigenen Hinweis: Ohne 12 V DC am Steuergerät wird überhaupt kein Fehlercode angezeigt." } } ] }